

Glass. 



NEW GUIDE FOR EMIGRANTS 



WEST 



ft 



CONTAINING SKETCHES OF 



OHIO, INDIANA, ILLINOIS, MISSOURI, MICHIGAN, WITH 
fHE TERRITORIES OF WISCONSIN AND ARKAN- 
SAS, AND THE ADJACENT PARTS. 



By J. M. PECK, A. M. 



OF ROCK SPRING, ILL. 




BOSTON: 
GOULD, KENDALL & LINCOLN. 

FOR SALE BY THE BOOKSELLERS IN THE UNITED STATES. 



1836. 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1836, 

By Gould, Kendall, & Lincoln, 
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts. 



INDEX 



CHAP. I. 



General View of the Valley of the Missis- 
sippi. 

Extent — Subdivisions — Population — Physical Features 
— Animal, Vegetable and Mineral Productions — 
History — Prospective Increase of Population, 11 

CHAP. n. 

General View, &c.. Continued. 
Productions, 32 

CHAP. III. 

Climate. 
■ omparative View of the Climate with the Atlantic 
States — Diseases — Means of Preserving Health, ... 37 

CHAP. IV. 

Character, Manners and Pursuits of the 

People. 
Cotton and Sugar Planters — Farmers — Population of 



IV INDEX. 

the large Towns and Cities — Frontier Class — Hunt- 
ers and Trappers — Boatmen, 102 

CHAP. V. 

Public Lands. 
System of Surveys — Meridian and Base Lines — 
Townships — Diagram of a Township surveyed into 
Sections — Land Districts and Offices — Preemption 
Rights — ^Military and Bounty Lands — Taxes — 
Valuable Tracts of Country unsettled, 130 

CHAP. VL 

Aborigines. 
Conjecture respecting their former Numbers and Con- 
dition — Present Number and State — Indian Terri- 
tory appropriated as their Permanent Residence — 
Plan and Operations of the U. S. Government — 
Missionary Efforts and Stations — Monuments and 
Antiquities, 144 

CHAP. vn. 

Western Pennsylvania. 
Face of the Country — Soil, Agriculture and Internal 
Improvements — Chief Towns — Pittsburg — Coal — 
Sulphur and Hot Springs — Wheeling, 16S 

CHAP. vni. 

Michigan. 
Extent — Situation — Boundaries — Face of the Coun- 
try — Rivers — Lakes, &c. — Soil and Productions — ■ 



INDEX. V 

Subdivisions — Counties — Towns — Detroit — Educa- 
tion — Internal Improvements projected — Boundary 
Dispute — Outline of the Constitution, 179 

CHAP. IX. 

Ohio. 
Boundaries — Divisions — Face of the Country — Soil 
and Prod actions — Animal? — Minerals — Financial 
Statistics — Canal Fund — Expenditures — Land Tax- 
es — School Fund — Statistics — Canal Revenues — 
Population at different Periods — Internal Improve- 
ments — Manufactures — Cities and Towns — Cincin- 
nati — Columbus — Education — Form of Government 
—History, 193 

CHAP. X. 

Indiana. 
Boundaries and Extent — Counties — Population — Face 
of the Country, &c. — Sketch of each County — 
Form of Government — Finances — Internal Improve- 
ments — Manufactures — Education — History — Gen- 
eral Remarks, 222 

CHAP. XI. 

Illinois. 
Boundaries and Extent — Face of the Country and 
Qualities of Soil — Inundated Land — River Bottoms, 
or Alluvion — Prairies — Barrens — Forest, or timber- 
ed Land — Knobs, Bluffs, Ravines and Sink Holes- 
Rivers, &c. — Productions — Minerals, — Lead, Coal, 



VI INDEX. 

Salt, &c. — Vegetables — Animals — Manufactures — 
Civil Divisions — Tabular View of the Counties — 
Sketches of each County — Towns — Alton — Pro- 
jected Improvements — Education — Government — 
General Remarks, 251 

CHAP. XII. 

Missouri. 
Extent and Boundaries — Civil Divisions — Population 
— Surface, Soil and Productions — Towns — St. 
Louis, 315 

CHAP. XIIL 

Arkansas and Territorial Districts. 
Arkansas. — Situation and Extent — Civil Divisions 
— Rivers — Face of the Country — Soil — Water — 
Productions — Climate — Minerals — State of Society. 
Wisconsin. Boundaries and Extent — Rivers — 
Soil — Productions — Towns, &c 323 

CHAP. XIV. 

Literary and Religious Institutions for 
THE West. 

Colleges — Statistical Sketch of each Religious Denom- 
ination — Roman Catholics — Field for Effort, and 
Progress made — Theological Institutions — Deaf and 
Dumb Asylums — Medical Institutions — Law Schools 
— Benevolent and Religious Societies — Periodical 
Press, 334 



INDEX. Vll 

CHAP. XV. 

Suggestions to Emigrants. 
Modes of Travel — Canal, Steamboat and Stage Routes 
— ^Other Modes of Travel — Expenses — ^Roads, Dis- 
tances, &c. 364 



INTRODUCTION. 



Much has been published ah-eady about the West, — 
the Great West, — the Valley of the Mississippi. 
— But no portion of this immense and interesting region, 
is so much the subject of inquiry, and so particularly ex- y 
cites the attention of the emigrant, as the States of Ohio, 
Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, and Michigan, with the adjacent 
territorial regions. 

All these States have come into existence as such, with 
the exception of Ohio, within the last twenty years; and 
much of the territory, now adorned by the hand of civil- 
ization, and spread over with an enterprising, industrious / 
and intelligent people, — the field of public improvements 
in Canals and Railways, — of Colleges, Churches, and other 
institutions, was the hunting ground of the aborigines, and 
the scene of border warfare. These States have been un- 
paralleled in their growth, both hi the increase of population 
and property, and in the advance of intellectual and moral 
improvement. Such an extent of forest was never before 
cleared, — such a vast field of prairie was never before 
subdued and cultivated by the hand of man, in the same 
short period of time. Cities, and towns, and villages, and 
counties, and States never before rushed into existence, 
and made such giant strides, as upon this field. 

" Who hath heard mch a thing? Who hath seen such 

• things? Shall the earth be made to bring forth in one 

day? or shall a nation be born at once?" Isaiah, lxvt. 8. 

The rapid increase of population will be exhibited in a 
tabular form in the following pages, and other parts show- 
1 



VI INTRODUCTION. 

ing that the general improvement of the country, and the 
development of its physical, intellectual and moral resources 
have kept pace with the extension of settlements. And 
such are its admirable facilities for commerce by its numer- 
ous navigable rivers, and its lines of canals, some of w^hich 
are finished, and many others commenced or projected, — 
such the richness of its soil, and the variety of its produc- 
tions, — such the genial nature of its climate, — the enterprise 
of its population, — and the influence it must soon wield in 
directing the destinies of the whole United States, as to 
render the great West an object of the deepest interest 
to the American patriot. To the philanthropist and chris- 
tian, the character and manners, — the institutipns, literature 
and religion of so wide a portion of our cojintry, whose 
mighty energies are soon to exert a controlling influence 
over the character of the whole nation, and in some meas- 
ure, of the world, are not less matters of momentous 
concern. 

" The West is a young empire of mind, and power, and 
wealth, and free institutions, rushing up to a giant man- 
hood, with a rapidity and power never before witnessed 
below the sun. And if she carries with her the elements 
of her preservation, the experhnent will be glorious, — the 
joy of the nation, — the joy of the whole earth, as she rises 
in the majesty of her intelligence and benevolence, and 
enterprise, for the emancipation of the world." — Beecher. 

Amongst the causes that have awakened the attention of 
the community in the Atlantic States, to this Great Valley, 
and excited the desires of multitudes to remove hither, 
may be reckoned the efforts of the liberal and benevolent to 
aid the West in the immediate supply of her population 
/'with the Bible, with Sunday Schools, with religious tracts, 
with the gospel ministry, and to lay the foundation for 
Colleges and other literary institutions. Hundreds of fam- 
ilies, who might otherwise have remained m the crowded 
cities and densely populated neighborhoods of their ances- 
tors, have had their attention directed to these States as a 
permanent home. And thousands more of virtuous and 
industrious families would follow, and fix their future resi- 
dence on our prairies, and in our western forests, cultivate 



INTRODUCTION. Vll 

our wild landp, — aid in building up our towns and cities, 
and diffuse a healthful moral and intellectual influence / 
through the mass of our present population, could they 
feel assured that they can reach some portion of the West- 
ern Valley without great risk and expense, — provide for 
their families comfortably, and not be swept off by sickness, 
or overwhelmed by suffering, beyond what is incident to 
any new country. 

The author's first book, " A Guide for Emigrants,*' 
&,c. was written in the winter and spring of 1831, to 
answer the pressing call then made for information of these 
western states, but more especially that of Illinois; — but 
many of its particulars, as to the character and usages of 
the people, manners and customs, modes of erecting build- 
ings, general characteristics and qualities of soil, productions, 
&c. were applicable to the West generally. 

Since that period, brief as it has been, wide and rapid 
changes have been made, population has rapidly augment- 
ed, beyond that of any former period of the same extent, — 
millions of acres of the public domain, then wild and 
hardly explored, have been brought into market; settlements 
and counties have been formed, and populous towns have 
sprung up where, at that time, the Indian and wild beast 
had possession ; facilities for intercommunication have been 
greatly extended, and distant places have been brought 
comparatively near; the desire to emigrate to the west has 
increased, and everybody in the Atlantic states has become 
interested and inquires about the (ireat Valley. That res- 
pectable place, so much the theme of declamation and 
inquiry abroad, " The Far West,^^ has gone from this 
region towards the setting sun. Its exact locality has not 
yet been settled, but probably it may soon be found along 
the gulf of California, or near Nootka Sound. And if. 
distance is to be measured by time, and the facility of inter- 
course, we are now several hundred miles nearer the 
Atlantic coast than twenty years since. Ten years more, 
and the facilities of railways and improved machinery will y'' 
place the Mississippi within seven day's travel of Boston, 
— six days of Washington city, and five days of Ctiarles- 
ton, S. C. 



Vlll INTRODUCTION. 

To give a brief, and yet correct account of a portion of 
this Great Valley, its resources, the manners and customs of 
its inhabitants, its political subdivisions, cities,commercial and 
other important towns, colleges and other literary institu- 
tions, religious condition, public lands, qualities of soil and 
general features of each state and territory named in the 
title page, together with such information as may form a 
kind of manual for the emigrant and man of business, or 
which may aid him on his journey hither, and enable him 
to surmount successfully the difficulties of a new country, 
is the object of this new work. In accomplishing this task 
the author has aimed at correctness and brevity. To con- 
dense the particular kind of information called for by the 
public mind in a small space, has been no easy task. Nor 
has it been a small matter to collect from so wide a range 
as five large states, and two extensive territories, with 
other large districts, the facts and statistical information 
often found in the compass of less than a page. 

It is an easy task to a belles-lettre scholar, sitting at his 
desk, in an easy chair, and by a pleasant fire, to write 
"Histories," and "Geographies," and " Sketches," and 
"Recollections," and "Views," and "Tours" of the 
Western Valley, — but it is quite another concern to explore 
these regions, examme public documents, reconcile contra- 
dictory statements, correspond with hundreds of persons in 
public and private life, read all the histories, geographies, 
tours, sketches, and recollections that have been published, 
and correct their numerous errors, — then collate, arrange, 
digest, and condense the facts of the country. Those who 
have read his former "Guide for Emigrants," will 
find upon perusal, that this is radically a neiv work — i-ather 
than a new edition. Its whole plan is changed; and though 
some whole pages of the former work are retamed, and 
many of its facts and particulars given in a more condensed 
form, much of that work being before the public in other 
forms, he has been directed, both by his own judgment, and 
the solicitude of the public mind in the Atlantic states, to 
give to the work its present form and features. 

There are three classes of persons in particular who may 
derive advantage from this Guide. . — 



INTRODUCTION. IX 

1 . All those who intend to remove to the states and ter- 
ritories described. Such persons, whether citizens of the 
Atlantic states, or natives of Europe, will find in this small ^ 
volume, much of that species of information for which 
they are solicitous. 

It has been a primary object of the author throughout 
this work, to furnish the outline of facts necessary for this 
class. He is aware also that much in detail will be desired 
and eagerly sought after, which the portable and limited 
size of this little work could not contain; but such inform- 
ation may be found in the larger works, by Hall, Flint, 
Darby, Schoolcraft, Long, and other authors and travellers. 
Those who desire more specific and detailed descriptions of 
Illinois, will be satisfied probably with the author's 
Gazetteer of that State, published in 1834, and which 
can be had by application to the author, or to the publish- 
ers of this work. 

2. This Guide is also designed for those, who, for either 
pleasure, health or business, intend to travel through the 
western States. Such are now the facilities of intercom- 
munication between the eastern and western States, and to 
most points in the Valley of the Mississippi, that thousands 
are visiting some portions of this interesting region every 
month. Some knowledge of the routes that lead to differ- 
ent parts of this Valley, the lines of steamboats and stages, 
cities, towns, public institutions, manners and customs of 
the people, &c., is certainly desirable to all who travel. 
Such persons may expect a correct, and it is hoped, a 
pleasant Guide in this book. 

3. There is a numerous class of persons in the Atlantic 
States, who desire to know more about the Great West 
and to have a book for reference, who do not expect to 
emigrate here. Many are deeply interested in its moral 
welfare. They have cheerfully contributed to establish 
and build up its literary and religious institutions, and yet 
from want of access to those facts which exist amongst us, 
their information is but partial and limited. The author in 
his travels in the Atlantic states has met with many persons, 
who, though well informed on other subjects, are surpris- 
ingly ignorant of the actual condition, resources, society. 



Iff INTRODUCTION. 

manners of the people, and even the geography of these 
states and territories. The author is aware of the difficul- 
ty of conveying entirely correct ideas of this r^ion to a 
person who has never travelled beyond the borders of his 
native state. The laws and habits of associating ideas in 
the human mind forbid it. 

The chief source of information for those states that lie 
on the Mississippi, has been the personal observation of the 
author, — having explored most of the settlements in Mis- 
souri and Illinois, and a portion of Indiana and Ohio, — 
having spent more than eighteen years here, and seen the 
two former states, from an incipient territorial form of gov- 
ernment, and a few scattered and detached settlements, 
arise to their present state of improvement, population, 
wealth and national importance. His next source of infor- 
mation has been from personal acquaintance and corres- 
pondence with many intelligent citizens of the states and 
territories he describes. Reference has also been had to 
the works of Hall, Flint, Darby, Breckenridge, Beck, 
Long, Schoolcraft, Lewis and Clarke, Mitchel's and Tan- 
ner's maps. Farmer's map of Michigan, TurnbuU's map of 
Ohio, The Ohio Gazetteer, The Indiana Gazetteer, Dr. 
Drake's writings, Mr. Coy's Annual Register of Indian 
affairs, EUicott's surveys, and several periodicals. 

J. M. P. 

Rock Spring, Illinois, January, 1836. 



CHAPTER I. 



GENERAL VIEW OF THE VALLEY OP THE MISSISSIPPL 

Its extent, Subdivisions, Population, Physical fea- 
tures, — Animal, Vegetable and Mineral productions, — 
History, — Prospective increase of Population. 

The Valley of the Mississippi, in its proper 
geographical extent, embraces all that portion 
of the United States, lying between the Alle- 
ghany and Rocky Mountains, the waters of 
which are discharged into the gulf of Mexico, 
through the mouths of the Mississippi. I have 
embraced, however, under that general term, 
a portion of the country bordering on the 
northern lakes, including the north part of 
Ohio, the northeastern portions of Indiana and 
Illinois, the whole of Michigan, with a con- 
siderable territorial district on the west side of 
lake iVIichigan, and around lake Superior. 

Extent. This great Valley is one of the 
largest divisions of the globe, the waters of 
which pass one estuary. 

To suppose the United States and its terri- 



12 peck's guide 

tory to be divided into three portions, the 
arrangement would be, the Atlantic slope — the 
Mississippi basin, or valley — and the Pacific 
slope. 

A glance on any map of North America, 
will show that this Valley includes about two 
thirds of the territory of the United States. 
The Atlantic slope contains about 390,000; the 
Pacific slope, about 300,000; which, combined, 
are 690,000 square miles: while the Valley of 
the Mississippi contains at least 1,300,000 
square miles, or 833,000,000 acres. 

This Valley extends from the 29° to the 49° 
of N. latitude, or about 1400 miles from south 
to north ; and from the 3° to the 35° of longi- 
tude west from Washington, or about 1470 
miles from east to west. From the source of 
the Alleghany river to the sources of the Mis- 
souri, following the meanderings of the streams, 
is not less than 5000 miles. 

Stib divisions. The states and territories in- 
cluded, are a small section of New York 
watered by the heads of the Alleghany river, 
western Pennsylvania, western Virginia, Ohio, 
Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Michigan, Ken- 
tucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Louisiana, Ter- 
ritory of Arkansas, Indian Territory, the vast 
unsettled regions lying to the v/est and north 
of this Territory, the Wisconsin Territory in- 
cluding an extensive country west of the 
Mississippi and north of the state of Missouri, 
with the vast regions that lie towards the heads 



FOR EMIGRANTS. IS 

of the Mississippi, and around lake Superior.* 
Population. The following table, gives a 
comparative view of the population of the 
Valley of the Mississippi, and shows the pro- 
portional increase of the several States, parts 
of States, and Territories, from 1790 to the 
close of 1835, a period of 45 years. The 
column for 1835 is made up partly from the 
census taken in several states and territories, 
and partly by estimation. It is sufficiently ac- 
curate for general purposes. 

* Why the names Huron, Mandan, Sioux, Osage, and 
Ozark have been applied by Darby and other authors, to 
the extensive regions on the Upper Mississippi, the Upper 
Missouri, and the Arkansas rivers, I am not able to solve. 
Osage is a French corruption of Wos-sosh-e, and Ozark 
is an awkward, illiterate corruption of Osage. Sioux is 
another French corruption, the origin of which is not now 
easily ascertained. Carver and other travellers, call this 
nation of Indians Nau-do-wes-sees. Chiefs of this nation 
have repeatedly disclaimed the name of Sioux, (pronounced 
Soos.) They sometimes call themselves Da-co-tah. 



14 



PECK S GUIDE 



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FOR EMIGRANTS. 1)3 

Probably there is no portion of the globe, of 
equal extent, that contains as much of soil fit 
for cultivation, and which is capable of sus- 
taining and supplying with all the necessaries 
and conveniences, and most of the luxuries of 
life, so dense a population as this great Valley. 
Deducting one third of its surface for water 
and desert, which is a very liberal allowance, 
and there remains 866,667 square miles, or 
554,666,880 acres of arable land. 

Let it become as populous as Massachusetts, 
which contains 610,014 inhabitants on an area 
of 7,800 square miles, or seventy-eight to 
every 640 acres, and the population of this 
immense region will amount to 67,600,000. 
The child is now born which will live to see 
this result. Suppose its population to become 
equally dense with England, including Wales, 
which contains 207 to the square mile, and its 
numbers will amount to 179,400,000. But let 
it become equal to the Netherlands, the most 
populous country on the globe, containing 230 
to the square mile, and the Valley of the Mis^- 
sissippi teems with a population of 200 millions, 
a result which may be had in the same time 
that New England has been gathering its two 
millions. What reflections ought this view to 
present to the patriot, the philanthropist, and 
the christian. 

Physical Features. The physical features of 
this Valley are peculiar. 

1. It includes two great inclined planes, one 



16 peck's guide 

on its eastern, and the other on its western 
border, terminating with the Mississippi. 

2. This river receives all the waters pro- 
duced on these slopes, which are discharged 
by its mouths into the gulf of Mexico. 

3. Every part of this vast region can be 
penetrated by steamboats, or other water craft; 
nor is there a spot in all this wide region, ex- 
cepting a small district in the vast plains of 
Upper Missouri, that is more than one hundred 
miles from some navigable water. A boat 
may take in its lading on the banks of the 
Chatauque lake, in the State of New York; 
another may receive its cargo in the interior of 
Virginia; a third may start from the rice lakes 
at the head of the Mississippi; and a fourth 
may come laden with furs from the Chippewan 
mountains, 2,800 miles up the Missouri, and 
all meet at the mouth of the Ohio, and pro- 
ceed in company to the ocean. 

4. With the exception of its eastern and 
western borders, there are no mountains. 
Some portions are level, a large part is gently 
undulating, or what in the west is called 
" rolling," and the remainder is made up of 
abrupt hills, flint and Hmestone ridges, bluffs, 
and ravines. 

5. It is divided into two great portions, the 
Upper, and Lower Valley, according to its 
general features, climate, staple productions, 
and habits of its population. The parallel of 
latitude that cuts the mouth of the Ohio river, 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 17 

will designate these portions with sufficient ac- 
curacy. 

North of this line the seasons are regularly 
divided into spring, summer, autumn, and win- 
ter. In the winter there is usually more or 
less snow, ice forms and frequently blocks up 
the rivers, navigation is obstructed, and cotton 
is not produced in sufficient quantity or quality 
to make it a staple for exportation. It is the 
region of furs, minerals, tobacco, hemp, live 
stock, and every description of grain and fruit 
that grows in New England. Its white popu- 
lation are mostly accustomed to labor. 

South of this line, cotton, tobacco, indigo, 
and sugar are staples. It has little winter, 
snow seldom covers the earth, ice never ob- 
structs the rivers, and most of the labor is 
done by slaves. 

Rivers. The rivers are, the Mississipp'i and 
its tributaries, or more correctly, the Missouri- 
and its tributaries. If we except the Amazon, 
no river can compare with this for length of 
its course, the number and extent of its tribu- 
taries, the vast country they drain, and their 
capabilities for navigation. Its tributaries 
generally issue either from the eastern or 
western mountains, and flow ovet this immense 
region, diffiising not only fertility to the soil, 
but affording facilities for commerce a great 
part of the year. 

The Missouri is unquestionably the main 
stream, for it is not only longer and discharges 
a larger volume of water than the Mississippi 



>18 PECK^S GUIDE 

above its mouth, but it has branches, which^ 
for the extent of country they drain, their 
length, and the volume of water they dis- 
charge, far exceed the upper Mississippi. 

The characteristics of these two rivers are 
each distinctly marked. The Missouri is tur- 
bid, violent in its motions, changing its currents; 
its navigation is interrupted or made difficult 
by snags, sawyers and planters, and it has 
many islands and sand-bars. Such is the 
character of the Mississippi below the mouth 
of the Missouri. But above its mouth, its wa- 
ters are clear, its current gentle, while it is 
comparatively tree from snags and sand-bars. 

The Missouri, which we have shown to be 
the principal stream, rises in the Chippewan, 
or Rocky mountains in latitude 44° north, and 
longitude about 35° west from Washington 
city. It runs a northeast course till after it 
receives the Yellow Stone, when it reaches 
past the 48° of latitude, thence an east, then a 
south, and finally a southeastern course, until 
it meets the current of the Mississippi, 20 
miles above St. Louis, and in latitude 38° 45' 
north. Besides numerous smaller streams, the 
Missouri receives the Yellow Stone and Blatte, 
which of themselves, in any other part of the 
world, would be called large rivers, together 
with the Sioux, Kansau, Grand, Chariton, 
Osage, and Gasconade, all large and navigable 
rivers. 

Its length, upon an entire comparative 
course, is 1870 miles, and upon a particular 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 19 

course, about 3000 miles, Lewis and Clark 
make the distance from the Mississippi to the 
great falls, 2580 miles. 

There are several things in some respects 
peculiar to this river, which deserve notice. 

1. Its current is very rapid, usually at the 
rate of four or five miles an hour, when at its 
height; and it requires a strong wind to propel 
a boat with a sail against it. Steam overcomes 
its force, for boats ply regularly from St. 
Louis to the towns and landings on its banks 
within the borders of the state, and return 
with the produce of the country. Small steam- 
boats have gone to the Yellow Stone for furs. 

Owing to the shifting of its current, and its 
snags and sand-bars, its navigation is less safe 
and pleasant than any other western river, but 
these difficulties are every year lessened by 
genius and enterprise. 

2, Its water is always turbid, being of a 
muddy, ash color, though more so at its peri- 
odical rise than at other times. This is caused 
by extremely fine sand, received from the 
neighborhood of the Yellow Stone, During 
the summer flood, a tumbler of water taken from 
the Missouri, and precipitated, will produce 
about one fourth of its bulk in sediment. 

This sediment does not prevent its habitual 
use by hundreds who live on its banks, or 
move in boats over its surface. Some filtrate 
it, but many more drink it, and use it for culi- 
nary purposes, in its natural state. 

When entirely filtrated, it is the most limpid 



so peck's guide 

and agreeable river water I ever saw. Its 
specific gravity then, is about equal to rain 
water; but in its turbid state, it is much heav- 
ier than ordinary river water, for a boat will 
draw three or four inches less in it than in 
other rivers, with the same lading, and the 
human body will swim in it with but \ery little 
effort. 

It possesses some medicinal properties. 
Placed in an open vessel and exposed to the 
/^ summer's sun, it remains pure for weeks. 
Eruptions on the skin and ulcerous sores are 
cured by wading or frequent bathings, and 
commonly it produces slight cathartic effects 
upon strangers upon its first use. 

The width of the Missouri river at St. 
Charles, is 550 yards. Its alluvial banks 
however are insecure, and are not unfrequent- 
ly washed away for many yards at its annual 
floods. The bed of its channel is also preca- 
rious, and is elevated or depressed by the 
deposition or removal of its sandy foundation. 
Hence the elevation or depression of the sur- 
face of this river, affords no criterion of its 
depth, or of the volume of water it discharges 
at any one period. 

Undulatory motions, like the boiling of a 
pot, are frequently seen on its surface, caused 
by the shifting of the sand that forms its bed. 

The volume of water it ordinarily discharges 
into the Mississippi is vastly disproportionate 
to its length, or the number and size of its 
tributaries. I have seen less than six feet 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 21 

depth of water at St, Charles at a low stage, 
and it was once lorded by a soldier, at BeJle- 
fontaine, four miles above its junction with 
the Mississippi. 

Evaporation takes up large quantities, but 
absorption throughout the porous soil of its 
wide bottoms consumes much more. In all 
the wells dug in the bottom lands of the Mis- 
souri, water is always found at the depth of 
the surface of the river, and invariably rises 
or sinks with the floods and ebbings of the 
stream. Volumes of sand frequently enter 
these wells as the river rises. 

Its periodical floods deserve notice. Ordi- 
narily this river has three periods of rising 
and falling each year. The first rise is caused 
by the breaking up of winter on the Gascon- 
ade, Osage, Kansau, Chariton, Grand, and 
other branches of the lower Missouri , and oc- 
curs the latter part of February, or early in 
March. Its second rise is usually in April, 
when the Platte, Yellow Stone, and other 
streams pour into it their spring floods. But 
the flood that more usually attracts attention 
takes place from the 10th to the 25th of June, 
when the melting snows on the Chippewan 
mountains pour their contents into the Missouri. 
This flood is scarcely ever less than five, nor 
more than 20 feet at St. Louis, above the ordi- 
nary height of the river. On two occasions, 
however, since the country was known to the 
French, it has arisen to that height in the Mis- 
sissippi as to flow over the American Bottom 



^2 .aBE-OKi's GUIDE I 

jn Illinois, and;dFiviQ;the)iahabita»tS of Gaiiokia 
and JC ask askia; from theiriviillagegto Xhe bJiife, 
Hain inJgreater or less quantities u usually; fall^ 
during the rise of the river, and -ceases wheii 
the waters f subside] sSo umforniiUS. thisMhe 
case in; Upper Mi^sojuH, the. region beyond the 
iboundary; of ithe State , that the.i aeasoiis laire 
-divided! into vi^eti^and; dry.' odi id -lif;:) «[[ v.t od; 
■{; Pumic©:^tones and other iiy(dcamo;,pi;Mucr 
^iohs dcteasionally flo^t dowa !its, waters.. . ; ; o:i i 
: ; . [ 'Mmsissippi 'River.\ < The extrerriei head ; of tb.e 
•longest 'braja.ch ;of Mthe Mississippi, river, has 
been found in lake Itaska^ior Lac •Ja'Biche,,biy 
^r^ /Schoolcraft, fwho states il:tOibei elevaited 
^i'jD.Offeet above, ;the Atlantic ocean yiandl idisr 
itanfciS, 1^0 miles fi-omtheextreame; outlet of fiybe 
-irivernaJt dihe ,gulf of Mexico. I;he -o^utl^jt ;of 
Hfcaska lake , which: is x^onnectcd .with a striijg 
-of. small lakes^ is ten oi* t\Velve feet broad, j^ad 
/twelve or fifteen iiiches deep. ; Tbife is in latjr 
,tude about: 48P; north.\ From, .this it .ipa^ses 
•iCrfdarland several smaller .laitegj and; runs' a 
iwihding- course ; • 700 ; Smites j to ;the ; falls , of ■ St 
iAnthoHy , where its ; ! waters : are jprecipitated 
.over.acaiaract of 16 or 17 feet perpertdicul^i!. 
lit th«|nj!c6fitinile9 a southeas|;eri6 icourge to the 
Missouri,' id* (N. latii 36° Sa' y ; ;t^eeiving I the i Sit. 
'Honoixj ; Dhipipewaf, Wisconsin, j Rock and > 1111- 
-abis ^ii^ersy^ithi maliy smalier streams fcoTO 
^theji-ieast, ^riduithe .Sti. Peter's^ ;Iowa^ .Dee 
(Moirtefly/and Salt i;iverisy.besides( a number^ 
-©MalleiiorieBlifrotriMthiecWiest; ,<;The cur^rent/of 
(thjdtMIsatttirit'8trlkesn'th«,4 «f thei Missisjsigpi^ftit 
I* 



FOR BMIGiiaJfTS. 25' 

right angles j.^rid throws it upon the easternt 
shore. When at a low stage, the waters of 
the t wo ■ rivers are ■ distinct till they pass St,; 

lAirtliS!./:/ ■•.■: :;; i;:, •' : ... ' ; 

'(The principal branch of the Upper Missis-, 
sippi^ is the St. Peter's, which rises in the 
great prairies in the northwest, and enters the) 
parent stream ten miles below the. falls of St. 
Anthony. Towards the sources of this riven 
the quarries exist from which are made the red 
stone pipes of the Indians. This is sacred 
ground. Hostile tribes mfeet ihere, and' ipart 
unmolested. •■ .^ ■ ^ ' ..:'.< '\\r: l\ '•;:; ..--•••I 

Rock river drains the waters from the norths 
ern part of JHinois and Wisconsin, and enters 
the parent stream at 41° 30' north latitude; 
In latitude 39° comes in the Illinois, signifying 
the ''River of Men;" and eighteen miles be- 
low this, it unites withy and is^ lost in the 
Missouri:.' ■ ^ r' ■ ■ 

Custom has fixed unalterably, the name 
Mississippi, to this united body of waters, that 
rolli^ its turbid waves towaiids the Mexican 
gulf; though, as has bieen iatitoated, it is but 
a continuation of the Missouri.)' ':M'' ' .'■ 

Sixty miles below St. Louis, the Kaskaskia 
joins it^ after '^ devious course nf 400 miles; 
In 3i7° north latitude, the Ohio pours in it^ 
tribute, called by the early French explorers^ 
" La Belle Riviere," the beautiful river: rA 
little below 34° ^ the White river; enters after a 
course of more than 1,0(0 miles. Thirty 
miles below that , the Arkansas , bringing; it)B 



24 peck's guide 

tribute from the confines of Mexico, pours in 
its waters. Above Natchez, the Yazoo from 
the east, and eighty miles below, the Red 
river from the v/est, unite their waters with the 
Mississippi. Red River takes its rise in the 
Mexican dominions, and runs a course of more 
than 2,000 miles. 

Hitherto, the waters in the wide regions of 
the west have been congregating to one point. 
The " Father of Waters," is now. upwards of 
a mile in width, and several fathoms deei), 
}3aring its annual floods, it overflows its banks 
below the mouth of the Ohio, and penetrates 
the nnmerous bayous, lakes, and swamps, and 
especially on its western side. In many places 
these floods extend thirty or forty miles into 
the interior. But after it receives the K.ed 
river, it begins to throw off its surplus waters, 
which flow in separate channels to the gulf, 
and never again unite with the parent stream. 
Several of these communications are held with 
the ocean at different and distant points. 

Ohio River. The Ohio river is formed by 
the junction of the Alleghany and Mononga- 
hela, at Pittsburg. The Alleghany river rises 
not far from the head of the western branch of 
the Susquehannah, in the highlands of Mc- 
Kean county, Pennsylvania. It runs north 
till it penetrates Cataraugus county, New 
York, then turns v/est, then southwest, and 
finally takes a southern course to Pittslmrg. 
It receives a branch from the Chatauque lake, 
Chatauque county, New York. The Monon- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 2S 

gahela rises near the sources of the Kenhawa, 
in western Virginia, and runs north till it 
meets the Alleghany. 

The general course of the Ohio is southwest. 
Its current is gentle, and it receives a number 
of tributaries, which are noticed in the States 
where they run. 

The Valley of the Mississippi has been ar- 
ranged by Mr. Darby, into four great subdi- 
visions. 

1. The Ohio Valkij, length 750 miles, and 
mean width 261; containing 196,000 square 
miles. 

2. Mississippi Valley^ above Ohio, including 
the minor valley of Illinois, but exclusive of 
Missouri, 650 miles long, and 277 mean width, 
and containing 180,000 square miles. 

3. Lower Valley of the Mississippi, including 
White, Arkansas, and Red river vallies, 1,000 
miles long, and 200 wide, containing 200,000 
square miles. 

4. Missouri proper, including Osage , Kansau , 
Platte rivers, &c. 1,200 miles long, and 437 
wide, containing 523,000 square miles. 

'' The Valley of the Ohio is better known 
than any of the others; has much fertile land, 
and much that is steril, or unfit for cultivation, 
on account of its unevenness. It is divided 
into two unequal portions, by the Ohio river; 
leaving on the right or northwest side 80,000, 
and on the left or southeast side, 116,000 
square miles. The eastern part of this valley 
is hilly, and rapidly acclivous towards the 



26* .^BECKf^JBUIUiE? r 

.^^Lppalaiefiian lun^wntainsi - Indeed its high hiJls-, 
ais lybu ; approaGh i these .mountainsy are of :a 
strongly marked mountainous charactbri'iM 
doors^^the river^ Arhifch flow into the Ohio^ — 
the' : iMonongahela^ K^nlia-wa, Licfcing , Sandys 
Kentucky), Gr^en, Cumberliand ,'and TelmesSde 
— are rapid, and abounding in cataracts aiid 
falls^ vw(hi^h| t9:wards their sources, greatly 
iinpiede ixavigatiori. The western side Jof this 
Valley is, also, hilly for a considerabte dis-^ 
tancq frbm the'^ Ohio, lbi?t' towards its western 
limit, it subsides to a rentarkably level region; 
So that whilst the eastern line of this Valley 
Jiesi lalong. thie ' high table land , on which the 
Appalachian niountains ' rest, and where the? 
rivers of the^ eastern section of this Valley 
rise, which is at least 2,000 miles generaHy 
abdveithe bpean level; the western line has 
not',dn elevation iof much more than half o^f 
that amount on; the , noi^th , and which greatly 
subsides towards the Kaskaskia. The rive;ns 
of ; the : western ' section ' are Beaver, Musk- 
ingum, :; Hockhocking<, Sbioto^ Miami, "aM 
Wabash. lAlongithe Ohio, on each side jkre 
high hills ,■ often? iii"tei^ect6d \vith de^p ra.'vintes, 
and i so'metimes openings of considerable cx-t 
tent, and; well known by the! appellatiom' /of 
f ^ Ohio hills'. " . Towards r the mouth of ; the 
Ghio^ thes^ hilis' almost wholly disappear, atid 
e?itie*rtsive level; bottoms^ -cohered with heavy 
forests' of oak", sycamore, elm', poplar^ and 
cotton wood^ gtrqtch along each side; of the 
river.' On the^^ilowfer^seetioa of tb© rivekijthe 



^ FaH;JEMI)0B;ANirS. 33 

AVi^t^p, at >th.e tim^: of ;tl*e ^.spmng; Jioodsv /often 
overflows these bottoms to a -gr^ at; extent. 
This fine VgJley embraces consideif ably; jaiore 
filian one half of, the wh^^l® I^opiilation of the 
efttire Yallfiy. of the West; T^ie-western_ parts 
of iP^ntigylvania an(J:^/'irginia, the entire states 
xifs i I Qhh , ; Indiana, and .Kentucky ,: the larger 
part of Tennessee, and a smalleii part of ilH*- 
(!*(#,, arfe in the VftUey; of the Ohio. '* ; ' 
^■)i\^The<'lJpp€r. Valky.ofihe Mississippi possesses 
■ia,suVfac;e far less diveiisifi^d th;in the Valley: of 
ithoQhiOi ; The country where: ; its most northr 
^i^hrian<Jh0» take their rise, is elevated table 
-tod, albounding; with: marshes and lakesythat 
^re fiUfed with a , granifer6us Vegetable called 
\tild : rifio. , It is a slim , shrivelled , grain of a 
J>jCOvynish nuei, and gathered :by the Indiana. in 
,l?irge quantitiies for food.! Their^ ard tr*acts ©f 
farablo ! laiid co'vered with elm , linden , pine, 
;h(3rt\lock^' cherry ) maple, birch landi Other, tim^ 
b|^r:<iommonvto( a nortliem climate. From,' the 
same plateciu; flow the nlimenoua brahohes of 
jRed [river, 'and other streanis thaf; flowr into 
iake^ Wi&wpeck^ and. thence into Hudson's 
btiiyii-rflepe^-iiofo,' are found some of the h^ad 
.brahcfie.^iof ttl%e swateirs! of St. Lawf encei, that 
\m^epS\ie( Jjftke cff; ! itihel Woods , and Sup^rion. 
,l]$ the wh^olei: iciotHntify i<i>f ; whi^^h: we : aref isp^ ak'- 
ingv ,tneQ!eeig|4)Mhing; tto/dfeserves! the : hami^ M 
Gltiownt&ift. iBieloiWrthe falls ;of St; Aiithdiiy the 
/m^Yi 'hkif^' /SiXQ. ctftsen yabrUptv twildi and fromaii- 
^iflj;,^jd^ at: th^irtrbias|3a^»dI4loiig(>the^i9tiiekm» 



28 peck's guide 

are thousands of quartz crystals , carnelians 
and other precious stones. 

But a short distance in the rear, you enter 
upon table land of extensive prairies, with 
clumps of trees, and groves along the streams. 
Further down, abrupt cliffs and overhanging 
precipices are frequently seen at the termina- 
tion of the river alluvion. 

The whole country northwest of the Ohio 
and east of the Mississippi, as far north as the 
falls of St. Anthony, exhibits striking marks of 
a diluvial formation, by a gradual retiring of 
the waters. From the summit level that divides 
the waters of the lakes from those of the Mis- 
sissippi, through Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and 
Wisconsin, which is scarcely a perceptible 
ridge, to the south point of Illinois at the junc- 
tion of the Ohio and Mississippi, appears to 
have once been a plane with an inclination 
equal to 12 or 15 inches per mile. The ravines 
and vallies appear to have been gradually 
scooped out by the abrasion of the waters. 

^' The Lower Mississippi Valley, has a length 
of 1 ,200 miles, from northwest to southeast, con- 
sidering the source of the Arkansas, and the 
mouth of the Mississippi river as extreme points; 
reaching from north latitude 29° to 42°, and 
without estimating mountains, ridges, or peaks, 
differs in relative elevation at least 500 feet. 

'' The Arkansas 7iver rises near north latitude 
42°, and longitude 32° west from Washington, 
and falls into the Mississippi at 33° 56', passing 
over eight degrees of latitude. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 29 

^^ Red River rises in the mountainous country 
of Mexico, north of Texas, in north latitude 34°; 
and west longitude 28° from Washington, and 
falls into the Mississippi in latitude 31°. They 
are both remarkable rivers for their extent, the 
number of their branches, the volume of their 
waters, the quantity of alluvion they carry down 
to the parent stream, and the color of their 
waters. Impregnated by saline particles, and 
colored with ocherous earth, the waters of these 
two rivers are at once brackish and nauseous 
to the taste, particularly near their mouths; 
that of Red river is so much so at Natchitoches 
at low water that it cannot be used for culinary 
purposes. 

"At a short distance below the mouth of the 
Red river, a large bayou, (as it is called,) or 
outlet, breaks from the Mississippi on the west; 
by which, it is believed, that as large a volume 
of water as the Red river brings to the parent 
river, is drained ofF^ and runs to the gulf of 
Mexico, fifty miles from the mouth of the Mis- 
sissippi. The name of this bayou is Atchafa- 
laya, or as it is commonly called, Ckaffalio. 
Below this bayou, another of large dimensions 
breaks forth on the same side, and finally falls 
into the Atchafalaya. This is the Placque- 
mine. Still lower, at Donaldsonville, ninety 
miles above New Orleans, on the same side, 
the Lafourche bayou breaks out, and pursues 
a course parallel to the Mississippi, fifty miles 
west of the mouth of that river. On the east 
side, the Ibberville bayou drains off a portion 
2 



30 peck's guide 

of the waters of the Mississippi, into lakes Mau- 
repas, Ponchartrain, Borgnes, and the gulf of 
Mexico, and thus forms the long and narrow 
island of Orleans. 

'' In the lower Valley of the Mississippi there 
is a great extent of land of the very richest 
kind. There is also much that is almost al- 
ways overflown with waters, and is a perpetual 
swamp. There are extensive prairies in this 
Valley; and towards the Rocky mountains; on 
the upper waters of the Arkansas and Red 
rivers, there are vast barren steppes or plains 
of sand, dreary and barren, like the central 
steppes of Asia. On the east of the Missis- 
sippi, are extensive regions of the densest 
forests, which form a striking contrast with the 
prairies which stretch on the west of that great 
river. 

^^ The Valley of the Missouri extends 1200 
miles in length, and 700 in width, and embraces 
253,000 square miles. The Missouri river 
rises in the Chippewan mountains, through 
eight degrees, or nearly 600 miles. The Yel- 
low Stone is its longest branch. The course 
of the Missouri, after leaving the Rocky moun- 
tains, is generally southeast, until it unites 
with the Mississippi. The principal branches 
flow from the southwest. They are the Osage, 
Kansas, Platte, &c. The three most striking 
features of this Valley are, 1st. The turbid 
character of its waters. 2d. The very unequal 
volumes of the right and left confluences. 3d. 
The immense predominance of the open prairies, 



FOR EMIGRANTS. SI 

over the forests which line the rivers. The 
western part of this Valley rises to an elevation 
towards the Chippewan mountains, equal to ten 
degrees of temperature. Ascending from the 
lower verge of this widely extended plain, 
wood becomes more and more scarce, until 
one naked surface spreads on all sides. Even 
the ridges and chains of the Chippewan, par- 
take of these traits of desolation. The travel- 
ler, who has read the descriptions of central 
Asia, by Tooke or Pallas, will feel on the higher 
branches of the Missouri, a resemblance, at 
once striking and appalling; and he will ac- 
knowledge, if near to the Chippewan mountains 
in winter, that the utmost intensity of frost over 
Siberia and Mongolia, has its full counterpart 
in North America, on similar, if not on lower 
latitudes. There is much fertile land in the 
Valley of the Missouri, though much of it must 
be forever the abode of the buffalo and the elk, 
the wolf and the deer.* 

* Darby. 



32 



CHAPTER II. 

GENERAL VIEW OF THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPL 

(continued.) 

Productions. 

Minerals. — But few mines exist in the Lower 
Valley of the Mississippi. Louisiana, being 
chiefly alluvion, furnishes only two specimens, 
sulphuret of antimony, and meteoric iron ore. 
It is supposed that the pine barrens towards 
Texas, if explored, would add to the number. 

The only minerals in Mississippi, are ame- 
thyst, of which one crystal has been found; 
potter's clay, at the Chickasaw Bluffs, and near 
Natchez; sulphuret of lead in small quantities, 
about Port Gibson; and sulphate of iron. Petri- 
fied trunks of trees are found in the bed of the 
Mississippi, opposite Natchez. In Arkansas 
Territory are various species. Here may be 
found the native magnet, or magnetic oxide of 
iron, possessing strong magnetic power. Iron 
ores are very abundant. Sulphate of copper, 
sulphuret of zinc, alum, and aluminous slate are 
found about the cove of Washitau, and the Hot 
Springs. Buhr stone of a superior quahty ex- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 33 

ists in the surrounding hills. The hot springs 
are interesting on account of the minerals 
around them, the heat of their waters, and as 
furnishing a retreat to valetudinarians from the 
sickly regions of the south. They are situated 
on the Washitau, a large stream that empties 
itself into Red river. 

The lead mines of Missouri have been worked 
for more than a century. They are distributed 
through the country from thirty to one hundred 
miles southwest from St. Louis, and probably 
extend through the Gasconade country. Im- 
mense quantities of iron ore exist in this region. 
Lead is found in vast quantities in the northern 
part of Illinois, the south part of the Wisconsin 
Territory, and the country on the opposite side 
of the Mississippi. These mines are worked 
extensively. Native copper in large quantities 
is found in the same region. Large quantities 
of iron ore is found in the mountainous parts 
of Tennessee and Kentucky, where furnaces 
and forges have been erected. Also, in the 
hilly parts of Ohio, particularly at the falls of 
Licking four miles west of Zanesville, and in 
Adams and Lawrence counties near the Ohio 
river. With iron ore the West is profusely sup- 
plied. 

Bituminous coal exists in great profusion in 
various parts of the Western Valley. The 
hills around Pittsburg are inexhaustible. It 
extends through many portions of Ohio and 
Indiana. Nearly every county in Illinois is sup- 



34 peck's guide 

plied with this valuable article. Missouri, Ken- 
tucky, and Tennessee have their share. Im- 
mense quantities are found in the mountains 
along the Kenhawa, in Western Virginia, and 
it is now employed in the manufacture of salt. 
The Cumberland mountains in Tennessee con- 
tain immense deposits. 

Muriate of Soda or common salt, exists in 
most of the states and territories of this Valley. 
Near the sources of the Arkansas incrustations 
are formed by evaporation during the dry sea- 
son, in the depressed portions of the immense 
prairies of that region. The celebrated salt 
rock is on the red fork of the Canadian, a 
branch of the Arkansas river. Jefferson lake 
has its water strongly impregnated with salt, 
and is of a bright red color. Beds of rock salt 
are in the mountains of this region. Several 
counties of Missouri have abundant salt springs. 
Considerable quantities of salt are manufac- 
tured in Jackson, Gallatin and Vermillion 
counties, Illinois. Saline springs, and " licks " 
as they are called, abound through Kentucky, 
Tennessee, Indiana, Ohio, Western Pennsyl- 
■\ania, and Western Virginia. Salt is manu- 
factured in great abundance at the Kenhawa 
salines, 16 miles above Charlestown, Va., and 
brought down the Kenhawa river and carried 
to all the Western States. Much salt is made 
also on the Kiskiminitas, a branch of the Al- 
leghany river, at the Yellow creek above Steu- 
benville, and in the Scioto country in Ohio. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 35 

The water is frequently obtained by boring 
through rock of different strata, several hun- 
dred feet deep. 

Copper, antimony, manganese, and several 
other minerals are found in different parts of the 
West, but are not yet worked. JVitrate of pot- 
ash is found in great abundance in the caverns 
of Kentucky and Tennessee, also in Missouri, 
from which large quantities of Saltpetre are 
manufactured. Sulphate of Magnesia is found 
in Kentucky, Indiana, and perhaps other states. 
Sulphur and other mineral springs are very 
common in the western states. 

Vegetable Productions. — Trees y S^c. Almost 
every species of timber and shrub common to 
the Atlantic states is found in some part of the 
Western Valley. The cotton wood and syca- 
more are found along all the rivers below the 
41° of N. latitude. The cypress begins near 
the mouth of the Ohio and spreads through the 
alluvion portions of the Lower Valley. The 
magnoHa, with its large, beautiful flower, grows 
in Louisiana, and the long leaf pine flourishes 
in the uplands of the same region. The sugar 
maple abounds in the northern and middle por- 
tions. The chesnut is found in the eastern 
portion of the Valley as far as Indiana, but not 
a tree is known to exist in a natural state west 
of the Wabash river. Yellow or pitch pine, 
grows in several counties of Missouri, especially 
on the Gasconade, from whence large quanti- 
ties of lumber are brought to St. Louis. White 
pine from the Alleghany river is annually sent 



36 peck's guide 

to all the towns on the Ohio, and further down. 
Considerable quantities of white pine grow on 
the upper Mississippi, along the western shore 
of Michigan, about Green bay, and along the 
shores of lake Superior. The yellow poplar, 
(Liriodendron tulipifera) is a majestic tree, val- 
uable for light boards, and may be found in 
some parts of most of the western states. The 
beech tree is frequently found in company. 
The live oak, so valuable in ship building, is 
found south of the 31°, and along the Louisiana 
coast. The orange, fig, olive, pine apple, &c. 
find a genial climate about New Orleans. High 
in the north we have the birch, hemlock, fir, 
and other trees pecuhar to a cold region. 
Amongst our fruit bearing trees we may enu- 
merate the walnut, hickory or shag bark, per- 
simon, pecaun, mulberry, crab apple, paupau, 
wild plum, and wild cherry. The vine grows 
everywhere. Of the various species of oak, 
elm, ash, linden, hackberry, &c. it is unneces- 
sary to speak. Where forests abound, the 
trees are tall and majestic. In the prairie 
country, the timber is usually found on the 
streams, or in detached groves. 

In the early settlement of Kentucky there 
were found, south of Green river, large tracts, 
with stunted scattering trees intermixed with 
hazel and brushwood. From this appearance 
it was inferred that the soil was of inferior 
quality, and these tracts were denominated 
^' barrens." Subsequently, it was found that 
this land was of prime quality. The term 



TO EMIGRANTS. 37 

" barrens " is now applied extensively in the 
West to the same description of country. It 
distinguishes an intermediate grade from forest 
and prairie, A common error has prevailed 
abroad that our prairie land is wet. Prairie is 
a French word signifying meadow, and is ap- 
plied to any description of surface, that is des- 
titute of timber and brushwood, and clothed 
with grass. Wet, dry, level, and undulating, 
are terms of description merely, and apply to 
prairies in the same sense as they do to forests. 
The prairies in summer are clothed with grass, 
herbage and flowers, exhibit a delightful pros- 
pect, and furnish most abundant and luxuriant 
pasturage for stock. Much of the forest land 
in the Western Valley produces a fine range 
for domestic animals and swine. Thousands 
are raised, and the emigrant grows wealthy, 
from the bounties of nature, with but little 
labor. 

Of animals, birds and reptiles, little need be 
said. The buffalo was in Illinois the beginning 
of the present century. They are not found 
now within three hundred miles of Missouri 
and Arkansas, and they are fast receding. 
Deer are found still in all frontier settlements. 
Wolves, foxes, wild cats, raccoons, opossums, 
and squirrels are plenty. The brown bear is 
still hunted in some parts of the western states. 
Col. Crockett was a famous bear hunter in 
Western Tennessee. The white bear, moun- 
tain sheep, antelope and beaver, are found in 
the defiles of the Rocky mountains. The elk 



38 PECK S GUIDE 

is still found by the hunter contiguous to newly 
formed settlements. All the domestic animals 
of the United States flourish here. 

Nearly all the feathered tribe of the Atlantic 
slope are to be found in the Valley. Pelicans, 
wild geese, swans, cranes, ducks, paroquets, 
wild turkies, prairie hens, &c. are found in dif- 
ferent states, especially on the Mississippi. 

Reptiles. The rattlesnake, copperhead snake, 
moccasin snake, bull snake, and the various 
snakes usually found in the Atlantic states are 
here. Of the venomous kinds, multitudes are 
destroyed by the deer and swine. Chameleons 
and scorpions exist in the Lower Valley, and 
lizards everywhere. The alligator, an unwieldy 
and bulky animal, is found in the rivers and 
lakes south of 34° north latitude. He sometimes 
destroys calves and pigs, and very rarely, even 
young children. 

History. — The honor of the discovery of this 
country is disputed by the Spanish, English, 
and French, It is probable that Sebastian Cabot 
sailed along the shores of what was afterwards 
called Florida, but a few years after Columbus 
discovered America. Spanish authors claim 
that Juan Ponce de Leon discovered and named 
Florida, in 1512. Narvaez, another Spanish 
commander, having obtained a grant of Florida 
in 1528, landed four or five hundred men, but 
was lost by shipwreck near the mouth of the 
Mississippi. Ferdinand de Soto was probably 
the first white man who saw the Mississippi river. 
He is said to have marched 1000 men from 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 39 

Florida, through the Chickasaw country, to 
the Mississippi, near the mouth of Red river, 
where he took sick and died. His men return- 
ed. Some writers suppose De Soto travelled 
as far north as Kentucky, or the Ohio river. 
This is not probable. 

The French were the first to explore and 
settle the West, and they held jurisdiction over 
the country of Illinois for 80 years, when it fell 
into the hands of the British upon the conquest 
of Canada. 

In 1564, Florida was settled by a colony of 
Huguenots, under Admiral Coligny, who were 
afterwards massacred by the Spaniards, because 
they were Protestant heretics. 

In 1608, Admiral Champlaine founded Que- 
bec, from which French settlements spread 
through the Canadas. 

About 1670, the notion prevailed amongst 
the French that visited Canada, that a western 
passage to the Pacific ocean existed. They 
learned from the Indians that far in the west 
there was a great river; but of its course or 
termination they could learn nothing. They 
supposed that this river communicated with the 
western ocean. 

To investigate this question, P. Marquette, a 
Jesuit, and Joliet, were appointed by M. Talon, 
the Intendant of New France. Marquette was 
well acquainted with the Canadas, and had 
great influence with the Indian tribes. They 
conducted an expedition through the lakes, up 
Green bay and Fox river, to the Portage, where 



40 peck's guide 

it approaches the Wisconsin, to which they 
passed, and descended that river to the Missis- 
sippi, which they reached the 17th of June, 
1673. They found a river much larger and 
deeper than it had been represented by the In- 
dians. Their regular journal was lost on their 
return to Canada; but from the account after- 
wards given by Joliet, they found the natives 
friendly, and that a tradition existed amongst 
them of the residence of a ^' Mon-e-to," or 
spirit, near the mouth of the Missouri, which 
they could not pass. They turned their course 
up the Illinois, and were highly delighted with 
the placid stream, and the woodlands and prai- 
ries through which it flowed. They were hos- 
pitably received and kindly treated by the 
Illinois, a numerous nation of Indians who were 
destitute of the cruelty of savages. The word 
" Illinois," or '' Illini," is said by Hennepin, to 
signify a "/»// grown man.'" This nation ap- 
pears to have originally possessed the Illinois 
country, and also a portion west of the Missis- 
sippi. The nation was made up of eight tribes: 
— the Miamies, Michigamies, Mascotins, Kas- 
kaskias, Kahokias, Peorias, Piankeshaws, and 
Tau-mar-wans, 

Marquette continued among these Indians 
with a view to christianize them; but Joliet 
returned to Canada and reported the discove- 
ries he had made. 

Several years elapsed before any one at- 
tempted to follow up the discoveries of Mar- 
quette and Joliet. M. de La Salle, a native of 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 41 

Normandy, but who had resided many years in 
Canada, was the first to extend these early dis- 
coveries. He was a man of inteUigence, talents, 
enterprise, and perseverance. After obtaining 
the sanction of the king of France, he set out 
on his projected expedition, in 1678, from Fron- 
tenac, with Chevalier Fonti, his lieutenant, and 
Father Hennepin, a Jesuit missionary, and 
thirty or forty men. 

He spent about one year in exploring the 
country bordering on the lakes, and in select- 
ing positions for forts and trading posts, to 
secure the Indian trade to the French. After 
he had built a fort at Niagara, and fitted out a 
small vessel, he sailed through the lakes to 
Green bay, then called the '■' Bay of Puants." 
From thence he proceeded with his men in 
canoes towards the south end of lake Michigan, 
and arrived at the mouth of the " river of the 
Miamis" in November, 1679. This is thought 
to be the Milwaukee in Wisconsin Territory. 
Here he built a fort, left eight or ten men, and 
passed with the rest of his company across the 
country to the waters of the Illinois river, and 
descended that river a considerable distance, 
when he was stopped for want of supplies. 
This was occasioned by the loss of a boat 
which had been sent from his post on Green 
bay. He was now compelled by necessity to 
build a fort, which, on account of the anxiety 
of mind he experienced, was called Creve-coeur, 
or broken heart. 

The position of this fort cannot now be ascer- 



42 peck's guide 

tained ; but from some appearances, it is thought 
to have been near Spring bay, in the northeast 
part of Tazewell county. 

At this period the Illinois were engaged in a 
war with the Iroquois, a numerou^ warlike, 
and cruel nation, with whom La walle had 
traded, while on the borders of Canada. The 
former, according to Indian notions of friend- 
ship, expected assistance from the French; but 
the interests and safety of La Salle depended 
upon terminating this warfare, and to this ob- 
ject he directed his strenuous efforts. The 
suspicious Illinois construed this into treachery, 
which was strengthened by the malicious and 
perfidious conduct of some of his own men, and 
pronounced upon him the sentence of death. 
Immediately he formed and executed the bold 
and hazardous project of going alone and un- 
armed to the camp of the Illinois, and vindi- 
cating his conduct. He declared his inno- 
cence of the charges, and demanded the author. 
He urged that the war should be terminated, 
and that the hostile nations should live in 
peace. 

The coolness, bravery, and eloquence of La 
Salle filled the Indians with astonishment, and 
entirely changed their purposes. The calumet 
was smoked, presents mutually exchanged, and 
a treaty of amity concluded. 

The original project of discovery was now 
pursued. Father Hennepin started on the 28th 
of February, 1680, and having passed down 
the Illinois, ascended the Mississippi to the 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 43 

falls of St. Anthony. Here he was taken pris- 
oner, robbed, and carried to the Indian villages, 
from which he made his escape, returned to 
Canada by the way of the Wisconsin, and 
from thence to France, where he published an 
account of his travels. 

La Salle visited Canada to obtain supplies, 
returned to Creve-cceur, and shortly after de- 
scended the Illinois, and then the Mississippi, 
where he built one or two forts on its banks, 
and took possession of the country in the name 
of the king of France, and in honor of him 
called it Louisiana. 

One of these forts is thought to have been 
built on the west side of the river, between St. 
Louis and Carondalet. 

After descending the Mississippi to its mouth, 
he returned to the Illinois, and on his way back 
left some of his companions to occupy the 
country. This is supposed to have been the 
commencement of the villages of Kaskaskia 
and Cahokia,in 1683. La Salle went to France, 
fitted out an expedition to form a colony at the 
mouth of the Mississippi, sailed to the gulf of 
Mexico, but not being able to find the mouths 
of that river, he commenced an overland journey 
to his fort on the Illinois. On this journey he 
was basely assassinated by two of his own men.* 

* La Salle appears to have discovered the Bay of St. 
Bernard, and formed a settlement on the western side of 
the Colorado, in 1685. — See J. Q. Adams's Correspon- 
dence with Don Onis. Pub. Doc. first session I5th Con- 
gressy 1818. 



44 peck's guide 

After the death of La Salle, no attempts to 
discover the mouth of the Mississippi were 
made till about 1699, but the settlements in the 
Illinois country were gradually increased by 
emigrants from Canada. 

In 1712, the king of France, by letters pa- 
tent, gave the whole country of Louisiana to 
M, Crosat, with the commerce of the country, 
with the profits of all the mines, reserving for 
his own use one fifth of the gold and silver. 
After expending large sums in digging and ex- 
ploring for the precious metals without success, 
Crosat gave up his privilege to the king, in 
1717. Soon after, the colony was granted to 
the Mississippi company, projected by Mr. Law, 
which took possession of Louisiana, and ap- 
pointed M. Bienville governor. In 1719, La 
Harpe commanded a fort with French troops, 
not far from the mouth of the Missouri river. 

Shortly after, several forts were built within 
the present limits of Illinois, of which fort 
Chartres was the most considerable. By these 
means a chain of communication was formed 
from Canada to the mouth of the Mississippi. 

In 1699, M. Ibberville arrived in the gulf 
of Mexico with two frigates, and in March 
ascended the river in a felucca one hundred 
leagues, and returned by the bayou or outlet 
that bears his name, through lake Ponchartrain 
to the gulf He planted his colony at Biloxi, 
a healthy but steril spot between the Mobile 
and Mississippi rivers, and built a fortification. 
During several succeeding years much explor- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 45 

ing was done, and considerable trade carried 
on with the Indians for peltries, yet these ex- 
peditions were a source of much expense to 
France. 

In January, 1702, the colony at Mobile was 
planted; several other settlements were soon 
after formed. The Catholics also commenced 
several missions amongst the Indians. Diffi- 
culties frequently occurred with their Spanish 
neig'hbors in Florida and Mexico. 

M. Ibberville died in 1706, and M. Bienville 
succeeded him in the government of Louisiana 
for many years. The city of New Orleans was 
founded, during his administration, in 1719. It 
is situated on the east bank of the Mississippi, 
one hundred and five miles from its mouth. 
From 1723 to 1730, the French had extermin- 
ating wars with the Natchez, a powerful nation 
of Indians. They had killed 700 French in 
1723, and about 1730 the French exterminated 
the nation. Various wars took place subse- 
quently with the Spanish and English. But 
over most of the Indians along the Mississippi, 
these French colonists gained extraordinary 
influence. — During this period emigrants con- 
tinued to arrive from France, so that the colo- 
nists rapidly increased in numbers. 

The Mississippi land scheme, or ^' bubble " 
as it was called, originated with the celebrated 
John Law in 1717, which soon burst and spread 
ruin throughout the monied interests of France. 
The amount of stock created, was said to equal 
310,000,000 of dollars. The whole proved an 
2* 



m PECK S GUIDE 

entire failure, but it served to increase greatly 
the population of Louisiana, so that from 1736, 
the colonies in the Lower Valley prospered. 

In 1754, the war commenced between France 
and England relative to the boundaries of the 
Canadas. At that period France claimed all 
the countries west of the Alleghany moun- 
tains, while England on the other hand had 
granted to Virginia, Connecticut and other 
colonies, charters which extended across the 
continent to the " South Sea," as the Pacific 
ocean was then called. A grant also was made 
by Virginia, and the crown of Great Britain, of 
600,000 acres to a company called ^' The Ohio 
Company." The governor of New France, as 
Canada and Louisiana was then called, pro- 
tested, erected forts on lake Erie, and at the 
present site of Pittsburg, and enlisted the In- 
dians against the English and Americans. 
Pittsburg was then called Fort du Quesne. 
Then followed Braddock's war, as this contest 
is called in the west, — the mission of Major 
(afterward General) Washington, — -the defeat 
of Braddock ; and finally by the memorable vic- 
tory of Wolfe at Quebec, and the lesser ones 
at Niagara and Ticonderoga, and by victories 
of the English fleet on the ocean, the French 
were humbled, and at the treaty of Paris, in 
1763, surrendered all their claims to the coun- 
try east of the Mississippi. Towards the close 
of the war, however, France, by a secret treaty, 
ceded all the country west of the Mississippi, 
and including New Orleans, to Spain, who held 



I 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 47 

possession till 1803, when it was delivered to 
the French government under Napoleon, and 
by him ceded to the United States for 15,000,000 
of dollars. 

The English held possession of the military 
posts, and exercised jurisdiction over the 
country of Illinois, and the adjacent regions, 
till 1778, during the revolutionary war; when 
by a secret expedition, without direct legisla- 
tive sanction, but by a most enterprising, 
skilful, and hazardous military manoeuvre, the 
posts of Kaskaskia, Cahokia, Fort Chartres 
and Vincennes were captured by Gen. George 
Rogers Clark, with a small force of volun- 
teer Americans, and that portion of the Valley 
fell under the jurisdiction of Virginia. 

The legislature of Vir<rinia sanctioned the 
. . . 

expedition of Clark, which the Executive, Pat- 
rick Henry and his council, with Thomas 
Jefferson, George VV^ythe, and George Mason, 
by written instructions, had agreed should be 
done, and a county called '' Illinois" was or- 
ganized the same year. 

In 1784, Virginia, in conjunction with other 
states, ceded all claims to the Great West, to the 
United States, reserving certain tracts for the 
payment of revolutionary claims. This cession 
laid the foundation for five new states north- 
west of Ohio, when each district should have 
60,000 inhabitants, and even a less number, by 
consent of Congress. Two restrictions were 
peremptorily enjoined, — that each state should 
adopt a constitution with a republican form of 



48 peck's guide 

government, and that slavery or involuntary 
servitude, should be forever prohibited. 

It is unnecessary here to enter into details 
of the settlement of each particular state, — 
the incessant attacks from the Indians, — the 
border wars that ensued, — the adventures of 
Boone and his associates in settling Kentucky, 
— the unfortunate campaigns of Harmar and 
St. Clair, — the victorious one of Wayne, — or 
the reminiscences and events of the war of 
1812, and its termination in 1815. Some his- 
torical notices of each state may be found in 
their proper place. 

Prospective increase of Population. For a 
long period, in the states of the west, the in- 
crease of population was slow, and retarded 
by several causes. Difficulties of a formidable 
character had to be surmounted. The foot- 
steps of the American emigrants were every- 
where drenched in blood, shed by infuriated 
savage foes, and before 1790 more than 5,000 
persons had been murdered, or taken captive 
and lost to the settlements. " It has been 
estimated, that in the short space of seven 
years, from 1783 to 1790, more than fifteen 
hundred of the inhabitants of Kentucky were 
either massacred or carried away into a cap- 
tivity worse than death, by the Indians; and 
an equal number from Western Pennsylvania 
and Virginia, in the same period, met with a 
similar fate. The settlers on the frontiers 
were almost constantly, for a period of forty 
years, harrassed either by actual attacks of 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 49 

the savages, or the daily expectation of them. 
The tomahawk and the scalping knife, were 
the objects of their fears by day and by 
night."* 

Hence, in suggesting reasons showing why 
the population of this Valley must increase in 
future in a far greater ratio than in the past, 
it will appear: 

1. That the most perfect security is now 
enjoyed by all emigrants, both for their fami- 
lies and property. 

By the wise and beneficent arrangement of 
government, the Indian tribes have nearly all 
removed to the Territory specially allotted for 
their occupancy west of Missouri and Arkan- 
sas. The grand error committed in past times 
in relation to the Indians, and which has been 
the source of incalculable evils to both races, 
has been the want of definite, fixed and per- 
manent lines of demarcation betwixt them. It 
will be seen under the proper head, that a 
system of measures is now in operation that 
will not only preserve peace between the fron- 
tier settlements and the Indian tribes, but that 
to a great extent, they are becoming initiated 
into the habits of civilized life. There is now 
no more danger to the population of these 
states and territories from Indian depredations, 
than to the people of the Atlantic states. 

2. The increased facilities of emigration, 
and the advantage of sure and certain markets 

* Baird. 



dO peck's guide 

for every species of production, furnishes a 
second reason why population will increase in 
the western Valley beyond any former period. 

Before the purchase of Louisiana, the west- 
ern people had no outlet for their produce, and 
the chief mode of obtaining every description 
of merchandize, — even salt and iron, — was by 
the slow and expensive method of transporta- 
tion by wagons and pack-horses, across almost 
impassible mountains and extremely difficult 
roads. Now, every convenience and luxury of 
life is carried with comparative ease, to every 
town and settlement throughout the Valley, and 
every species of produce is sent off in various 
directions, to every port on earth if necessary. 
And these facilities are multiplying and in- 
creasing every hour: Turnpike roads, rail 
roads, canals, and steamboat navigation have 
already provided such facilities for removing 
from the Atlantic to the Western States, that no 
family desirous of removing, need hesitate or 
make a single inquiry as to facilities of getting 
to this country. 

3. The facilities of trade and intercourse 
between the different sections of the Valley, 
are now superior to most countries on earth, 
and are increasing every year. And no coun- 
try on earth admits of such indefinite improve- 
ment either by land or water. More than 
twenty thousand miles of actual steamboat 
navigation, with several hundred miles of canal 
navigation, constructed or commenced, attest 
the truth of this statement. The first steam- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 51 

boat on the western waters was built at Pitts- 
burg in 1811, and not more than seven or eight 
had been built, when the writer emigrated to 
this country in 1817. At this period, (January 
1836,) there are several hundred boats on the 
western waters, and some of the largest size. 
In 1817, about twenty barges, averaging about 
one hundred tons each, performed the whole 
commercial business of transporting merchan- 
dize from New Orleans to Louisville and 
Cincinnati. Each performed one trip, going 
and returning within the year. About 150 
keel boats performed the business on the Up- 
per Ohio to Pittsburg. These averaged about 
30 tons each, and were employed one month 
in making the voyage from Louisville to Pitts- 
burg. Three days, or three days and a half 
is now the usual time occupied by the steam 
packets between the two places, and from 
seven to twelve days between Louisville and 
New Orleans. Four days is the time of pass- 
ing from the former place to St. Louis. 

4, A fourth reason why population will in- 
crease in future in a greater ratio than the 
past is derived from the increase of population 
in the Atlantic states, and the greater desire ^ 
for removal to the west. At the close of the 
revolutionary war the population of the whole 
Union but little exceeded two millions. Vast 
tracts of wilderness then existed in the old 
states, which have since been subdued, and 
from whence thousands of enterprising citizens 
are pressing their way into the Great Valley. 



52 peck's guide 

Two thirds of the territory of New York, 
large portions of New Hampshire, Vermont 
and Maine, an extensive district in middle 
Pennsylvania, to say nothing of wide regions 
in the southern states, were comprised in this 
wilderness. These extensive regions have 
become populous, and are sending out vast 
numbers of emigrants to the west. Europe is 
in commotion, and the emigration to North 
America, in 1832, reached 200,000, a due 
proportion of which settle in the Western 
Valley. 

5. A fifth reason will be founded upon the 
immense amount of land for the occupancy of 
an indefinite number of emigrants, much of 
which will not cost the purchaser over one dol- 
lar and iwenty-Jive cents per acre. Without 
giving the extravagant estimates that have 
been made by many writers of the wide and 
uninhabitable desert between the Indian Ter- 
ritory west of Missouri and Arkansas, and the 
Rocky mountains, nor swampy and frozen 
regions at the heads of the Mississippi river, 
and around lake Superior, I will merely exhibit 
the amount of lands admitting of immediate 
settlement and cultivation, within the boundaries 
of the new States and organized Territories. 

According to the report of the Secretary of 
the Treasury up to the 30th day of September, 
1831, the estimated amount of unsold lands, on 
which the foreign and Indian titles had been 
extinguished, within the limits of the new States 
and Territories, was 227,293,884 acres; — and 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 53 

that the Indian title remained on 113,577,869 
acres within the same limits.* The Commis- 
sioner of the General Land Office in Decem- 
ber, 1827, estimated the public domain, beyond 
the boundaries of the new States and Territo- 
ries, to be 750 millions of acres. Much of this 
however, is uninhabitable. 

According to the Report of 1831, there had 
been granted to Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and 
Alabama for internal Improvements, 2,187,665 
acres; — for Colleges, Academies and Univer- 
sities in the new States and Territories, 
508,009; — for education, being the thirty-sixth 
part of the pubhc lands appropriated to com- 
mon schools, 7,952,538 acres; — and for seats 
of government to some of the new States and 
Territories, 21,589 acres. Up to January, 
1826, there had been sold, from the commence- 
ment of the land system, only 19,239,412 acres. 
Since that period to the close of 1835, there 
have been sold, about 33 millions of acres, 
making in all sold, a little more than 52 millions. 
This statement includes Alabama and Florida, 
which we have not considered as strictly within 
the Valley. After a hasty and somewhat im- 
perfect estimate of the public lands that are 
now in market, or will be brought into market 
within a few years, within the limits of Ohio, 
Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Mississippi, Louis- 
iana, Arkansas, Michigan, and the Territory 

* See Mr. Clay's Report on the Public Lands, April 26, 
1832, U. S. Papers. 

3 



54 



of Wisconsin, the amount may be put at 130 
millions of acres. This amount admits of im- 
mediate settlement and cultivation, and much 
of it may be put under cultivation without the 
immense labor of clearing and subduing forest 
lands. 

The comparison between the amount of sales 
of public lands within the last ten years, and 
the preceding forty years, shows that emigration 
to the West is increasing at a ratio beyond 
what is ordinarily supposed, and that the next 
ten years will find a majority of the population 
of the United States within this Great Valley. 

Sales of land from 1786 to 1826, (40 years) 19,^39,412 acres. 
" " from 1826 to 1835, (10 years) 33,000,000 acres. 

Three millions of families may find farms in 
the West. 

The extensive prairie lands of Illinois and 
Missouri present no obstacle to the settlement 
of the country. Already, prairies for many 
miles in extent have been turned into farms. 

6. A sixth reason why the increase of the 
future population of the Valley will greatly 
exceed the past, is derived from the increased 
confidence of the community in the general 
health of the country. The most unreasonable 
notions have prevailed abroad relative to the 
health of the western states. All new settle- 
ments are more or less unfavorable to health, 
which, when cultivated and settled become 
healthy. As a separate chapter will be devoted 
to this subject, I only advert to the fact now of 
the increased confidence of the people in the 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 55 

Atlantic States, in the salubrity of our western 
climate, which already has tended to increase 
emigration; but which, from facts becoming 
more generally known, will operate to a much 
greater extent in future. 

7. I will only add that there is already a , 
great amount of intelligence, and of excellent'''^ 
society in all the settled portions of the West- 
ern Valley. 

^^The idea is no longer entertained by East- 
ern people, that going to the West, or the 
^ Backwoods,' as it was formerly called, is to 
remove to a heathen land, to a land of ignor- 
ance and barbarism, where the people do 
nothing but rob, and fight, and gouge! Some 
parts of the West have obtained this character, 
but most undeservedly, from the jPearojis, the 
[Basil] Halls, the Trollopes, and other ignorant 
and insolent travellers from England, who, 
because they were not allowed to insult and 
outrage as they pleased, with Parthian spirit, 
hurled back upon us their poisoned javelins 
and darts as they left us. There is indeed 
much destitution of moral influence and means 
of instruction in many, very many, neighbor- 
hoods of the West. But there is in all the 
principal towns a state of society, with which 
the most refined, I was going to say the most 
fastidious, of the eastern cities need not be 
ashamed to mingle." — Baird. 

The eastern emigrant will find, that whole- 
some legislation, and much of the influence of 
religion are enjoyed in the Valley of the Mis- 



56 



sissippi, extending to him all he can ask in the 
enjoyment of his rights, and the protection of 
his property. 

Common School systems have been com- 
menced in some of the states, — others are 
following their example, and the subject of 
general education is receiving increasing 
attention every year. Colleges and other 
literary institutions are planted, and religious 
institutions and means of religious instruction 
are rapidly increasing. Noble and successful 
efforts are making by the Bible, Missionary, 
Tract, Sabbath School, Temperance, and other 
Societies in the West. Great and rapid 
changes are taking place, if not to the extent 
we desire, yet corresponding in a degree 
with the gigantic march of emigration and 
population. Many other reasons might be 
urged to show that its prospective increase of 
population will vastly exceed the ratio of its 
retrospective increase, but these are sufficient. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 57 



CHAPTER III. 



CLIMATE. 

Comparative view of the Climate with the Atlantic States. 
Diseases. — Means of preserving health. 

Climate, S^c. In a country of such vast extent, 
through 15° of latitude, the cHmate must neces- 
sarily be various. Louisiana, Mississippi and the 
lower half of Arkansas, lie between the latitudes 
of 30° and 35°, and correspond with Georgia 
and South Carolina. Their difference of cli- 
mate is not material. The northern half of 
Arkansas, Tennessee and Kentucky, lie west 
from North Carolina and the southern portion 
of Virginia. The climate varies from those 
states only as they are less elevated than the 
mountainous parts of Virginia and Carolina. 
Hence, the emigrant from the southern Atlan- 
tic states, unless he comes from a mountainous 
region, will experience no great change of 
climate, by emigrating to the Lower Mississip- 
pi Valley. Missouri, Illinois, Indiana and 
Ohio, He parallel with the northern half of 
Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, Pennsylvania, 



as 



New Jersey, and so much of New York and 
New England as lies south of the 42° of north 
latitude. But several circumstances combine 
to produce variations in the climate. 

1. Much of those Atlantic states are hilly, 
and in many parts mountainous, some of which 
are 2 and 3000 feet above the level of the 
ocean. The parallel western states have no 
mountains, and are not proportionably hilly. 

2. The Atlantic states border on the ocean 
on the east, and feel the influence of the cold, 
damp winds from the northeast and east. Their 
rains are more copious and their snows deeper. 
The northern portions of the West, equally 
with New York and Vermont, are affected with 
the influence of the lakes, though not to the 
same extent. 

5. " The courses of rivers, by changing in 
some degree the direction of the winds, exert 
an influence on the climate. In the Atlantic 
states, from New England to North Carolina, 
the rivers run more or less to the southeast, 
and increase the winds which blow from the 
northwest, while the great bed of the Mississippi 
exerts an equal influence in augmenting the 
number and steadiness of the winds which 
blow over it from the southwest; and there is 
another cause of difference in climate, chiefly 
perceptible, first, in the temperature, which, 
if no counteracting cause existed, they would 
raise in the west considerably above that of 
corresponding latitudes in the east; and, sec- 
ondly, in the moisture of the two regions, 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 59 

which is generally greater west than east of 
the mountains, when the southwest wind pre- 
vails; as, much of the water with which it 
comes charged from the Gulf of Mexico, is 
deposited before it reaches the country east of 
the Alleghanies." — Dr. Drake. 

It is an error that our climate is more vari- 
able, or the summers materially hotter, than in 
a correspondent latitude in the Atlantic states. 
" The New Englander and New Yorker north 
of the mountains of West Point, should bear 
in mind that his migration is not to the West 
but South West; and as necessarily brings him 
into a warmer climate, as when he seeks the 
shores of the Delaware, Potomac, or James' 
River." 

The settlers from Virginia to Kentucky, or 
those from Maryland and Pennsylvania to 
Ohio, or further west, have never complained 
of hotter summers than they had found in the 
land from whence they came. 

To institute a comparative estimate of tem- 
perature between the east and the west, we 
must observe: first, the thermometer; and, 
secondly, the flowering of trees, the putting 
forth of vegetation, and the ripening of fruits 
and grain in correspondent latitudes. This has 
not usually been done. Philadelphia and Cin- 
cinnati approach nearer to the same parallel, than 
any other places where such observations have 
been made. Cincinnati, however, is about 50' 
south of Philadelphia. The following remarks 



60 peck's guide 

are from Dr, Daniel Drake of Cincinnati, to 
whose pen the west is much indebted. 

" From a series of daily observations in Cin- 
cinnati or its vicinity, for eight consecutive 
years, the mean annual temperature has been 
ascertained to be 54 degrees and a quarter. Dr. 
Rush states the mean temperature of Philadel- 
phia at 52 degrees and a half; Dr. Coxe, from 
six years' observations, at 54° and a sixth; and 
Mr. Legaux, from seventeen years' observa- 
tions, at Spring Mill, a few miles out of the 
city, at 53° and a third; the mean term of which 
results, 53° and a third, is but the fraction of a 
degree lower than the mean heat of Cincinnati, 
and actually less than should be afforded by 
the difference of latitude. 

" A reference to the temperatures of summer 
and winter, will give nearly the same results. 
From nine years' observations, (three at Spring 
Mill, by Mr. Legaux, and six in Philadelphia, 
by Dr. Coxe,) the mean summer heat of that 
part of Pennsylvania, appears to be 76 degrees 
and six-tenths. The mean summer heat at 
Cincinnati, for an equal number of years, was 
74 degrees and four-tenths. The average 
number of days in which the thermometer rose 
to 90 degrees or upwards, during the same 
period, was fourteen each summer; and the 
greatest elevation observed was 98 degrees : 
all of which would bear an almost exact com- 
parison with similar observations in Pennsylva- 
nia. Mr. Legaux states the most intense 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 61 

cold, at Spring Mill, from 1787 to 1806, to have 
been 17 and five-tenths degrees below cipher, 
— while within the same period it was 18° at 
Cincinnati. The average of extreme cold for 
several years, as observed by Mr. Legaux, 
was one and eight-tenths of a degree below 
cipher: — the same average at Cincinnati, was 
two degrees below. From all which we may 
conclude, that the banks of the Delaware and 
Ohio, in the same latitudes, have nearly the 
same temperature." 

The state of Ilhnois, extending as it does 
through five and a half degrees of latitude, has 
considerable variation in its climate. It has 
no mountains, and though undulating, it cannot 
be called hilly. Its extensive prairies, and 
level surface, give greater scope to the winds, 
especially in winter. In the southern part of 
the State, during the three winter months, 
snow frequently falls, but seldom lies long. 
In the northern part, the winters are as cold, 
but not so much snow falls, as in the same lat- 
itudes in the Atlantic States. 

The Mississippi at St. Louis is frequently 
frozen over, and is crossed on the ice, and 
occasionally for several weeks. The hot 
season is longer, though not more intense, 
than occasionally for a day or two in New 
England. 

During the years 1817-18-19, the Rev. Mr. 
Giddings, at St. Louis, made a series of obser- 
vations upon Farenheit's thermometer. 



62 



Deg. Hund. 
Mean temperature for 1817 ... 55 52 
Do. do. from the begin- 

ning of May, 1818, to the end 

of April, 1819 56 98 

Mean temperature for 1820 . . . 56 18 
The mean of these results is about fifty-six 
degrees and a quarter. 

The mean temperature of each month during 
the above years, is as follows: 

Deg. Hund. 

January 30 62 

February 38 65 

March 43 13 

April 58 47 

May 62 66 

June 74 47 

July 78 66 

August 72 88 

September 70 10 

October 59 00 

November 53 13 

December 34 33 

The mean temperature of the different sea- 
sons is as follows : 

Winter, 34.53 — Spring, 54.74 — Summer, 
74.34— Autumn, 60.77. 

The greatest extremes of heat and cold dur- 
ing my residence of eighteen years, in the 
vicinity of St. Louis, is as follows: 

Greatest heat in July 1820, and July 1833, 
100 degrees. Greatest cold January 3d, 1834, 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 63 

18 degrees beiow zero, — ^February 8th, 1835, 
22 degrees below zero. 

The foregoing facts will doubtless apply to 
about one half of Illinois. This climate also is 
subject to sudden changes from heat to cold; 
from wet to dry, especially from November to 
May. The heat of the summer below the 40° of 
latitude is more enervating, and the system 
becomes more easily debilitated than in the 
bracing atmosphere of a more northerly region. 

At Marietta, Ohio, in lat. 39° 25- N. and at 
the junction of the Muskingum river with the 
Ohio, the mean temperature for 1834, was 52 
degrees, four-tenths ; highest in August, 95 
degrees, — lowest, January, at zero. Fair days 
225,— cloudy days 110. 

At Nashville, Tenn. 1834, the mean temper- 
ature was 59 degrees and seventy-six-hun- 
dredths; maximum 97, minimum 4 above zero. 
The summer temperature of this place never 
reaches 100°. On January 26th, 1832, 18 de- 
grees below zero. February 8th, 1835, 10° 
below zero. 

The putting forth of vegetation in the spring 
'furnishes some evidence of the character of 
the climate of any country, though by no means 
entirely accurate. Other causes combine to 
advance or retard vegetation. A wet or dry 
season, or a few days of heat or cold at a par- 
ticular crisis, will produce material changes. 

The following table is constructed from me- 
moranda made at the various dates given, near 
the latitude of St. Louis, which is computed at 



64 peck's guide 

38° 30'. The observations of 1819 were mack 
at St. Charles and vicinity, in the state of Mis- 
souri. Those of 1820, in St. Louis county, 17 
miles N. W. from the city of St. Louis. The 
remainder at Rock Spring, Illinois, 18 miles 
east from St. Louis. It will be perceived, the 
years are not consecutive. In 1826, the writer 
was absent to the eastern states, and for 1828, 
his notes were too imperfect to answer the 
purpose. 

In the columns showing the times of the first 
snows, and the first and last frosts in the sea- 
son, a little explanation may be necessary. A 
'' light " snow means merely enough to whiten 
the earth, and which usually disappears in a 
few hours. 

Many of the frosts recorded ^^ light " were 
not severe enough to kill ordinary vegetation. 











FOR EMIGRANTS. 






65 












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1827 
1829 




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66 peck's guide 

These observations, upon a comparison with 
the same parallels of latitude in the eastern 
states, show that there is no material difference 
of climate between the two sections of our 
country, except that produced by local causes, 
as mountainous districts, contiguity to the 
ocean, &c. 

A similar error has existed in relation to 
sudden and extreme changes of weather in the 
West. People who emigrate to a new country 
have their curiosity awakened, and perhaps for 
the first time in their lives become quite ob- 
serving of such changes. From habitually 
observing the weather the impression is pro- 
duced on their minds that there is a marked 
difference in this climate. Dr. Rush declares 
that there is but one steady trait in the charac- 
ter of the climate of Pennsylvania- — and that is, 
it is uniformly variable, and he asserts that he 
has known the thermometer fall 20° in one 
hour and a half. March 26-27 , 1 8 1 8 , the ther- 
mometer in St. Louis, fell 41° in 30 hours — 
from 83° to 42°. I have no record or recollec- 
tion of a more sudden change in 18 years. Mr. 
Legaux saw it fall in the vicinity of Philadel- 
phia, 47° in 24 hours, and Dr. Drake states 
that this is five degrees more than any impres- 
sion ever observed in Cincinnati, in the same 
length of time. Emigrants from New England 
and the northern part of New York state, must 
not expect to find the same climate in the West, 
at 38 or 40 degrees; but let them remove to 
the same parallel of latitude in the West, to 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 



67 



Wisconsin, or the northern part of Illinois, and 
they will probably find a climate far more uni- 
form than the land of their birth. 

Prevailing winds modify and affect the cli- 
mate of every country. Southwestwardly 
winds prevail along the Mississippi Valley. 
The following tabular view of observations 
made at Cincinnati, by Dr. D. Drake, for six 
succeeding years, with so few omissions, that 
they amount to 4200, will give further illustra- 
tions of this subject. They have been brought 
from eight points of the compass. 

OBSERVATIONS. 



Months . , . 


S. E. 


s. 


s. w. 


N. E. 


N. 


N. W. 


E. 


w. 


CALM.j 


January .... 
February . . , 
March 


6 

5 

10 


2 


13 
13 
16 


8 

8 

11 


1 
1 
1 


21 
14 
10 


3 





6 
5 
5 


6 

8 
4 


April 

May 

June 


7 
7 
9 




24 
19 
23 


10 
10 
12 


1 


5 


8 
10 

7 




3 
4 
2 


5 
6 
3 


July 

August .... 


6 
6 


1 
■I 


19 
23 


11 

10 


2 

1 


11 
12 




4 

1 


4 
6 


September . . 
October .... 


6 
9 




23 
24 


9 
6 




1 


8 
10 


2 

2 


3 
4 


3 
3 


November. . , 


9 




13 


6| 1 


10 


2 


7 


5 


December. . . 


7 




11 


5 


15 


2 


6 


9 


Total... 


87 


14 


221 


106 


|14 


1 136 


16 


50 


62|| 



68 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 



The results of my own observations, made 
for twelve years, with the exception of 1826, 
and with some irregularity, from travelling in 
different parts of Missouri and Ilhnois during 
the time, do not vary in any material degree 
from the above table, excepting fewer east and 
northeast winds. 

Dr. Drake has given a table, setting forth 
the results of 4268 observations on the state of 
the weather at Cincinnati, from which it will 
be perceived that of the 365 days in a year, 
about 176 will be fair, 105 cloudy, and 84 vari- 
able. 

Dr. L. C. Beck made similar observations at 
St. Louis during the year 1820, which produced 
the result of 245 clear days, and cloudy, in- 
cluding variable days, 110. 



Years. 


Clear days. 


Cloudy days. 


Variable days. 


1 


180 


107 


68 


2 


158 


112 


91 


3 


187 


78 


85 


4 


152 


106 


107 


5 


185 


111 


68 


6 


172 


112 


74 


Total 6 years. 


1,034 


626 


493 


Mean terms. 


172. 33 


104. 33 


82.16 



The following table shows the condition of 
the weather in each month of a mean year, 
for the above period. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 



69 



Months.. . . 


Clear days. 


Cloudy days. 


Variable days. 


January .... 
February , . . 
March 


9.8 
10. 3 
13. 5 


13. 1 

12. 

9. 1 


7.8 
6. 5 
8. 3 


April 

May 


13. 1 
15. 


10.8 

8.5 


7. 6 

7. 5 


June 


15.5 


5. 


9.6 


July 

August .... 
September . . 
October .... 


19. 
19. 6 
19. 5 
16. 1 


5. 5 
4.6 
5.3 

6. 


6.0 
6.5 
6. 1 

8. 1 


November. . . 


9. 5 


13. 5 


5. 5 


December. , . 


9.6 


14. 1 


5.8 



There would be some variations from the 
foregoing table in a series of observations in 
the country bordering upon the Upper Missis- 
sippi and Missouri. The weather in the states 
of Ohio and Kentucky, is doubtless more or 
less affected in autumn by the rains that fall 
on the Alleghany mountains, and the rise of 
the Ohio and its tributaries. So the weather in 
the months of April, May and June in Missouri, 
is affected by the spring floods of the Missouri 
and Mississippi rivers. 

The following table is constructed from a 
series of observations, made at the Military- 
posts in the We&t, by the Surgeons of the U. 
S. Army, for four years:— 1822, 1823, 1824, 
and 1825. [See American Almanac for 1834, 
p. 81.] 

3* 



70 



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FOR EMIGRANTS. 71 

Diseases, — Means of preserving health, Sfc. Of 
the Lower Valley, I shall say but very little on 
this subject. Dr. Drake observes, " The dis- 
eases of this portion of the Great Valley are 
few, and prevail chiefly in summer and autumn. 
They are the offspring of the combined action 
of intense heat and marsh exhalation." They 
are generally remittent and intermittent bilious 
fevers. Emigrants most generally undergo a 
seasoning, or become acclimated. Many per- 
sons, however, from the northern and middle 
states, and from Europe, enjoy health. In 
sickly situations these fevers are apt to return, 
and often prove fatal. They frequently en- 
feeble the constitution, and produce chronic 
inflammation of the liver, enlargement of the 
spleen, or terminate in jaundice or dropsy, and 
disorder the digestive organs. W^hen persons 
find themselves subject to repeated attacks, the 
only safe resource is an annual migration to 
a more northern climate during the summer. 
Many famihes from New Orleans, and other 
exposed situations, retire to the pine barrens 
of Louisiana, in the hot and sickly season, 
where limpid streams, flowing over a pebbly 
bed, and a terebinthine atmosphere are enjoy- 
ed. Eight months of the year, are pleasant and 
healthy in the Lower Mississippi Valley. 

The advice of Dr. Drake is, that '' Those 
who migrate from a colder climate to the 
southern Mississippi states, should observe the 
following directions: First — To arrive there in 
autumn, instead of spring or summer. Second 



72 peck's guide 



— If practicable, to spend the hottest part 
the first two or three years, in a higher latitude. 
Third — To select the healthiest situations. 
Fourth — To live temperately. Fifth — To pre 
serve a regular habit. Lastly — To avoid the 
heat of the sun from 10 in the morning till 4 
in the afternoon, and above all the night air. 
By a strict attention to these rules, many would 
escape the diseases of the climate, who annually 
sink under its baleful influence." 

Those states and territories to v/hich this 
work is intended more immediately as a Guide, 
do not differ very materially in salubrity. The 
same general features are found in each. 
There is but little diversity in climate, — their 
geological and physical structure coincide, and 
the experience of years shows that there is no 
great difference. Where autumnal fevers are 
common they are usually of similar character. 
The same causes for disease exist in Ohio as 
in Missouri, in Michigan as in Illinois, in Ken- 
tucky and Tennessee as in Indiana. All these 
states are much more infested with the mala- 
dies which depend on variations of temperature, 
than the states farther south. All have locali- 
ties where intermittents and agues aie found, 
and all possess extensive districts of country 
where health is enjoyed by a very large pro- 
portion of emigrants. There is some differ- 
ence between a heavily timbered and a prairie 
country, in favor of the latter; other circum- 
stances being equal. Changes favorable to 
continued health are produced by the settle- 



1 

IS. |l 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 73 

ment and cultivation of any particular portion 
of country. Of one fact I have long since 
satisfied my mind, that ordinary fevers are not 
caused by the use of the water of the West. 

Exceptions may be made in some few cases, 
where a vein of water is impregnated with some 
deleterious mineral substance. The use of a. 
well, dug in the vicinity of a coal bed in Illinois, 
was supposed to have caused sickness in a 
family for two seasons. Any offensive property 
in water is readily detected by the taste. Cool, 
refreshing water is a great preservative of 
health. It is common for families, (who are 
too indifferent to their comfort to dig a well,) 
to use the tepid, muddy water of the small 
streams in the frontier states, during the sum- 
mer, or to dig a shallow well and wall it with 
timber, which soon imparts an offensive taste 
to the water. Water of excellent quality may 
be found in springs, or by digging from 20 to 
30 feet, throughout the western states. Most 
of the water thus obtained is hard water, from 
its limestone qualities, but it is most unques- 
tionably healthy. Those persons who emigrate 
from a region of sandstone, or primitive rock, 
where water is soft, will find our limestone 
water to produce a slight affection of the bow- 
els, which will prove more advantageous to 
health than otherwise, and which will last but 
a few weeks. Whenever disease prevails in 
the western states, it may generally be attribu- 
ted to one or more of the following causes. 

1st. Variations of the temperature. This cause, 



T4 peck's guide 

we have already shown, exists to as great ex- 
tent in the same latitude east of the mountains. 

2nd. The rapid decomposition of vegetable mat- 
ter. In all our rich lands, there are vast quan- 
tities of vegetable matter mixed with the soil, 
or spread over the surface. Extreme hot 
weather, following especially a season of much 
rain, before the middle of July, will produce 
sickness. If the early part of summer be toler- 
ably dry, although a hot season follows, sick- 
ness does not generally prevail. The year 
1820 was an exception to this rule. It was 
throughout, a very dry, hot, sickly year through 
the West; indeed, throughout the world. A 
wet season, with a moderately cool atmosphere, 
has proved healthy. 

3d. Marsh exhalations. These, combined with 
heat, will always generate fevers. Indeed, 
there is probably very little difference in the 
miasm thrown off from decomposed vegetable 
matter, and that produced from sluggish 
streams, standing waters and marshes. These, 
in the great Valley, abound with decayed vege- 
table matter. Hence, along the streams which 
have alluvial bottoms j{sis low lands upon streams 
are called in the West,) some of which are an- 
nually overflowed, and where the timber and 
luxuriant vegetable growth are but partially 
subdued, the inhabitants are liable to fevers, 
dysenteries and agues. Situations directly un- 
der the bluflTs adjacent to the bottom lands, that 
lie upon our large rivers, especially when the 
vegetation is unsubdued, have proved unhealthy. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 75 

So have situations at the heads or in the slope 
of the ravines that put down from the bluffs 
towards the rivers. 

The principal diseases that prevail may be 
stated as follows. In the winter, and early in 
the spring, severe colds, inflammation of the 
lungs and pleurisies are most common. The 
genuine hereditary consumption of New-Eng- 
land is rare, and families and individuals pre- 
disposed to that disease might often be pre- 
served by migration to this Valley. Acute 
inflammation of the brain, and inflammatory 
rheumatism are not unusual at that season. 

During the summer and autumn, cholera in- 
fantum with children in large towns, diarrhoea, 
cholera morbus, dysentery, intermittent and 
remittent bilious fevers prevail. The inter- 
mittent assumes various forms, and has acquir- 
ed several names amongst the country people, 
where it prevails more generally than in large 
towns. It is called the ^^ chill and fever," — 
"ague," — "dumb ague," &.C., according to 
its form of attack. 

The remittent fever is the most formidable of 
our autumnal diseases, especially when of a 
highly bilious type. In most seasons, these 
diseases are easily managed, and yield to a 
dose or two of medicine. Sore eyes, especially 
in autumn, is a common complaint in the fron- 
tier settlements, and when neglected or im- 
properly managed, have terminated in total 
blindness. 

The " milk sickness," as it is called, occa- 



76 peck's guide 

casionally prevails in some localities, some 
particulars of which will be found in another 
place. There is a disease that afflicts many 
frontier people, called by some " sick stomach," 
by others, " water brash," from its symptoms 
of sudden nausea, with vomiting, especially af- 
ter meals. 

In 1832, the cholera made its appearance in 
the West. In many places, its first approach 
was attended with great mortality, but its sec- 
ond visit to a place has been in a milder and 
more manageable form. It has visited various 
parts of the West on each returning season 
since, especially along the great rivers and 
about the steamboats. It appears to have 
changed somewhat the characteristics of our 
western diseases, and will probably become 
a modified and manageable disease. Since its 
visit, our fevers are more congestive, less bile 
is secreted, and the stomach more affected. 
The subject will doubtless be noticed by our 
physicians, and observations made, how far 
this new disease will become assimilated to the 
ordinary diseases of the country. 

We are satisfied, after along course of ob- 
servations, much travelling, and conversing 
with many hundreds of families with the view 
of arriving at correct conclusions on these 
subjects, that there is no such operation as that of 
emi2;rants undergoing a seasoning, or becoming 
acclimated, in the states of Ohio, Indiana, Illi- 
nois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Michi- 
gan, or the Wisconsin Territory. JS'or does it 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 77 

inake the least difference from what part of the 
United States J or Europe ^ theij come, nor whether 
theij arrive here in the spring or autumn. There 
is an erroneous notion prevailing in some of 
the Atlantic states on this subject, that should 
be corrected. When sickness prevails, there is 
just as much, and it is equally severe, amongst 
the old settlers, those born in the country, or 
who migrate from the Carolinas or Georoia, 
as those who come from the northern states. 
Families are just as liable to sickness, and are 
as often attacked for the first time, after resi- 
ding several years in the country, as at any 
other time. A large proportion of the families 
and individuals, who remove from New Eng- 
land to the various parts of the Valley, north 
of the 37th degree of latitude have no sickness 
the first year. 

The impression has formerly existed abroad, 
that Illinois is less healthy than other western 
states. This is entirely erroneous. As in all 
countries, there are some localities, where the 
causes that produce sickness exist more than 
in others. This is not the fact with Illinois in 
general. 

That this state is as healthy as any other 
western state, can be abundantly supported by 
facts. Let a candid observer compare the 
health of the early settlers of New England, 
with that of the early settlers of the West, and 
he will find the scale to preponderate in favor 
of the latter. Unless there is some strange 
fatality attending Illinois, its population must 
4 



78 peck's guide 

be more healthy than the early settlers of a 
timbered region. But in no period of its his- 
tory have sickness and death triumphed, in any 
respect equal to what they did two or three 
years since, in the lake country of New York. 
The year 1811, is recorded in the memoirs of 
the early settlers, as a season of unusual sickness 
near the banks of the Mississippi and Missouri 
rivers. The latter river rose to an unusual 
height in June, the waters of the small creeks 
were backed up, and a large surface of luxuriant 
vegetation was covered and deadened. This 
was succeeded by hot and dry weather. Bil- 
ious and intermittent fevers prevailed exten- 
sively. The seasons of 1819, '20, and '21 were 
usually sickly in Illinois and Missouri. Emi- 
grants, in shoals, had spread over a wide range 
of country within a year or two preceding. 
Multitudes were placed under circumstances 
the most unfavorable to the preservation of 
health, in new and open cabins of green tim- 
ber, often using the stagnant water of creeks 
and ponds, with a luxuriant vegetation around 
them undergoing decomposition, and all the 
other evils attendant on the settlement of a 
new and unbroken country. Under such cir- 
cumstances, can it be surprising that many were 
sick, and that many died? The summer of 
1820 was the hottest and driest ever known in 
this country. For weeks in succession, the 
thermometer, in the shade at St. Louis, was up 
to 96° for hours in the day. Not a cloud came 
over the sun, to afford a partial relief from its 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 79 

burning influence. The fevers of that season 
were unusually rapid, malignant, and unman- 
ageable. Almost every mark of the yellow 
fever, as laid down in the books, was exhibited 
in many cases, both in town and country. 
The bilious fever put on its most malignant 
type. Black, foetid matter was discharged from 
the stomach, and by stools. The writer and 
all his family suffered severely that season. 
He lived seventeen miles from St. Louis, on 
the road to St. Charles in Missouri, on a farm. 
The settlement had been called healthy. The 
Missouri bottom was one mile distant. Three 
miles west southwest, was the Creve-cceur 
lake, a body of water several miles in length 
and half a mile in width, connected by an out- 
let with the Missouri river. The water of this 
lake was entirely stagnant, covered with a 
thick scum, and sent forth a noisome smell. 
Fish in it died. My oldest son, a robust youth 
of ten years of age, and my brother-in-law, a 
hale and stout young man, sickened and died 
the first week in October. I was attacked the 
5th day of July, came as near dying as a per- 
son could and recover. All my children were 
sick. While convalescent, in September, I 
took a long journey to Cape Girardeau country, 
120 miles south, and back through the lead 
mine country to the Missouri river, 60 miles 
west of St. Louis, and in all the route found 
that sickness had prevailed to the same extent. 
At Vincennes and other parts of Indiana, 
disease triumphed. The country around Vin- 



80 peck's guide 

cennes^ on the east side of the Wabash, is a 
sandy plain. A gentleman who escaped the 
ravages of fever in that place, and who was 
much engaged in nursing the sick and consol- 
ing the dying, stated to me that nothing was so 
disheartening as the cloudless sky and burning 
sun that continued unchanged for weeks in 
succession. Mortality prevailed to a great ex- 
tent along the banks of the Wabash. Hindos- 
tan, a town on the east fork of White river, 
38 miles from Vincennes on the road to Louis- 
ville, was begun the preceding year. Seventy 
or eighty families had crowded in at the com- 
mencement of the year 1820. The heavy 
timber of poplar, (whitewood) oak and beech, 
had been cut down, the brush burned, and the 
logs left on the ground. By June the bark 
was loosened, an intolerable stench proceeded 
from the timber, — sickness followed, and about 
two thirds of the population died! And yet, to 
look about the place, there is no local cause 
that would indicate sickness. In the summer 
of 1821, sickness prevailed very extensively, 
but in a much milder form. Its type was in- 
termittent, and usually yielded to ordinary 
remedies. During that year the number of 
deaths in St. Louis was 136 — the population 
5000. At least one third of that number were 
strangers and transient persons, who either 
arrived sick, or were taken sick within two or 
three days after arrival. St. Louis had then 
no police regulations — the streets were filthy in 
the extreme — and the population were crowded 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 81 

into every hole and corner. This was the 
most sickly and dying season St. Louis ever 
knew, except when the cholera prevailed in 
October, 1832. 

The same years (1820 — 21) were noted for 
unusual sickness throughout the United States, 
and indeed the whole world. The bilious fever 
prevailed in the hilly and mountainous districts 
of Virginia and Pennsylvania, and even among 
the Green Mountains of Vermont. 

Very little general sickness (except cholera 
in 1832— '33) prevailed in 1830, '31, '32, or 
'33. In 1834, congestive fever, and dysentery, 
with some of the symptoms of cholera, existed 
in many places in the West, though not exten- 
sively fatal. In the month of June, were fre- 
quent sudden showers in Illinois and Missouri, 
with intervals of extreme heat. July and 
August very hot and dry. The disease began 
early in July and continued till September. 

The year 1835, was the most sickly year, for 
common intermittents, which prevailed more 
amongst the old settlers, than the newhj arrived emi- 
grants. In Illinois , and generally throughout the 
West, below the fortieth degree of latitude, it 
was sickly, though not fatal. Early in the spring, 
till the month of May, it was unusually dry, 
and vegetation was two weeks later than usual. 
May and a part of June were very wet, followed 
by a few days of extremely hot weather. 
Vegetation grew with great luxuriance. Newly 
ploughed ground sent forth a noxious effluvium, 
with a most offensive odour, and after a few 



8^ peck's guide 

days would be covered with a greenish coat, 
like the scum on stagnant water. Town situ- 
ations, even along the banks of river, were 
comparatively healthy. 

In case of sickness, physicians are to be 
found in almost every county, and every sea- 
son adds to their number. Charges are some- 
what higher than in the northern states. Many 
families keep a few simple articles of medicine, 
and administer for themselves. Calomel is a 
specific; and is taken by multitudes without 
hesitation, or fear of danger. From fifteen to 
twenty grains are an ordinary dose for a cathar- 
tic. Whenever nausea of the stomach, pains 
in the limbs, and yawning, or a chill, indicate 
the approach of disease, a dose of calomel is 
taken at night, in a little apple honey, or other 
suitable substance, and followed up in the 
morning with a dose of castor oil, or salts, to 
produce a brisk purge. Sometimes an emetic 
is preferred. Either a cathartic or an emetic 
will leave the system under some debility. The 
mistake frequently made is, in not following up 
the evacuating medicine with tonics. This 
should be done invariably, unless the paroxysm 
of fever has commenced. A few doses of sul- 
phate of quinine or Peruvian bark in its crude 
state, will restore the system to its natural tone. 
To prevent an attack of fever, medicine should 
be taken on the very first symptoms of a dis- 
eased stomach; it should not be tampered with, 
but taken in sufficient doses to relieve the sys- 
tem from morbid effects, and then followed up 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 83 

by tonicSj to restore its vigor and prevent re- 
lapse. 

New comers will find it advantageous for pro- 
tecting themselves from the damp atmosphere at 
night, to provide close dwellings; yet when the 
air is clear, to leave open doors and windows 
at night for free circulation, but not to sleep 
directly in the current of air; and invariably 
to wear thin clothing in the heat of the day, and 
put on thicker garments at night, and in wet 
and cloudy weather. 

I have observed that those families are seldom 
sick who live in comfortable houses, with tight 
floors, and well ventilated rooms ; and who, upon 
change of weather, and especially in time of 
rains, make a little fire in the chimney, although 
the thermometer might not indicate the neces- 
sity. 

In fine, I am prepared to give my opinion, 
decidedly^ in favor of the general health of this 
country and climate. I would not certainly be 
answerable for all the bad locations, the impru- 
dences, and whims of all classes of emigrants, 
which may operate unfavorably to health. I 
only speak for myself and family. I decidedly 
prefer this climate, with all its miasm, to New- 
England, with its northeast winds, and damp, 
^' raw" and pulmonary atmosphere. Vv^e very 
seldom have fogs in Illinois and Missouri. My 
memoranda, kept with considerable accuracy, 
for twelve years, give not more than half a 
dozen foggy mornings in a year. 

The following comparisons between St. Louis 



84 peck's guide 

and several eastern cities, will afford some evi- 
dence of the opinions expressed above. I have 
remarked already, that 1821, was more sickly 
in St. Louis, than any preceding year, and 
deaths were more numerous in proportion to 
the population. Some cases of fever were more 
malignant in 1820, in that place, but deaths were 
more frequent the following season. I solem- 
nized the marriage of a young lady of my ac- 
quaintance, who was under the age of fourteen 
years. In eight days she was a widow. At the 
funeral of a gentleman the same season, who 
left a widow under twenty years, there were 
present thirteen widows, all under twenty-four 
years of age, and all had lost their companions 
that season. Young men were victims more 
than any other age or condition. And yet I 
am prepared to show, that St. Louis, that sum- 
mer, was not more sickly than several eastern 
cities were in 1820 and 1823, 

The population of St, Louis in 1821, varied 
but little from 5,000 ; the number of deaths 
during that year was one hundred and thirty- 
six. This account was taken by the Rev, Sal- 
mon Giddings, who was particular in collecting 
the facts. The proportion of the deaths to the 
population was one to thirty-five. 

In 1820, Boston contained a population of 
43,893, — number of deaths 1,103; proportion 
one to thirty-nine and three fourths. 

New-York the same year contained a popu- 
lation of 123^00,— deaths 3,515; being a pro- 
portion of one to a fraction less than thirty-five. 

In Philadelphia, the population then was 



TO EMIGRANTS. 85 

108,000, — deaths 3,374; being a proportion of 
one to thirty-two. 

Baltimore had a population of 62,000, — 
deaths 1,625; being a proportion of one to 
thirty-eight. 

The aggregate population of these four cities 
in 1820, was 336,893 ; the aggregate number 
of deaths, 9,617; the proportion of one to thir- 
ty-five, the same as that of St. Louis. 

In 1823. 

Boston. Population estimated at 45,000 ; 
number of deaths by official returns, 1,154; 
the proportion of one to thirty-nine. 

JYeiv-York. Population about 130,000,— 
deaths 3,444; proportion of one to thirty-seven 
and two thirds. 

Philadelphia. Population about 120,000, — 
deaths 4,600, proportion of one to tv/enty-six. 
[This was an uncommonly sickly season in 
Philadelphia.] 

Baltimore. Population estimated at 65,000; 
deaths were 2,108; proportion of one to thirty 
and two thirds. 

I have thus selected the mortality of St. Louis 
during the most sickly season since my resi- 
dence in this country, and compared it with 
the bills of mortality of four eastern cities for 
two years, those of 1820 and 1823, and the 
result is favorable to the health of St. Louis, 
and by consequence, to the adjoining States, 
For ten years past, there has been no general 



86 peck's guide 

sickness in St. Louis, during the summer and 
autumnal months, excepting the cholera in 
1832. 

Some parts of Indiana and Ohio are unques- 
tionably more subject to bilious attacks than 
Illinois. The reason is obvious. Much of 
that region is heavily timbered, and, upon cut- 
ting it away in spots, and letting in the rays of 
the sun upon vegetable matter undergoing de- 
composition, miasmata are generated. These 
regions will become comparatively healthy, 
when put under general cultivation. 

The story is told, that the late emperor of 
France lay encamped with one of his armies 
near a place reputed unhealthy, when one of 
his officers requested a furlough. The reason 
being asked, and given, that the place was un- 
healthy, and the applicant feared to die an 
inglorious death from fever: Napoleon replied, 
in his accustomed laconic style, '' Go to your 
post; men die everywhere." 

If a family emigrate to a new and distant 
country, and any of the number sicken and 
die, we are apt to indulge in unavailing re- 
gret at the removal 5 whereas had the same 
afflictive event happened before removal, it 
would have been regarded in quite a different 
light. Let then, none come to Illinois who do 
not expect to be sick and to die, whenever 
Divine Providence shall see fit so to order 
events. 

The 'iuilk sickness is a disease of a singular 
character, which prevails in certain places. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 87 

It first affects animals, especially cows, and 
from them is communicated to the human sys- 
tem by eating the milk, or flesh. The symp- 
toms of the disease indicate poison; and the 
patient is affected nearly in the same way, as 
when poisonous ingredients have been received 
into the system. Cattle, when attacked by it, 
usually die. In many instances it proves mor- 
tal in the human system; in others, it yields to 
the skill of the physician. Much speculation 
has been had upon its cause, which is still 
unknown. The prevailing idea is, that it is 
caused by some poisonous substance eaten by 
the cattle, but whether vegetable or mineral, 
remains undetermined. Physicians and others 
have attempted to ascertain the cause of this 
disease, but hitherto without success. 

It infests only particular spots, or small 
districts, and these are soon found out. There 
are places in Ohio, Indiana, and the southern 
states, where it exists. Its effects are more 
frequent in autumn than any other season; and 
to guard against it, the people either keep 
their cows in a pasture, or refuse to use their 
milk. Some have supposed this disease to be 
produced by the cattle feeding on the cicuta 
virosa, or water hemlock; as a similar disease 
once infested the cattle in the north of Europe, 
the cause of which was traced out by the 
■great naturalist Linnceus; but it is not known 
that this species of plant exists amongst the 
botanical productions of Missouri and Illi- 
nois. 



88 ' peck's guide 

Anxious to furnish all the information, on 
this very important subject, to persons desirous 
of emigrating to the West, I will prolong this 
chapter by inserting the following: 

'' ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS, RECENT SETTLERS, 
AND TO THOSE VISITING THE SOUTHERN 
COUNTRY. 

^' The outlines which have already been 
given will afford some information to emigrants 
from other sections of the Union, or from 
Europe. We will now offer a few cautionary 
remarks, particularly intended for such as are 
about to settle, or have recently settled in this 
section of the United States. 

" Of new comers, there are two tolerably 
distinct classes: the one comprising farmers, 
mechanics, and indeed all those who calculate 
on obtaining a subsistence by manual industry; 
tfie other is composed of professional men, 
tradesmen, and adventurers of every descrip- 
tion. Towards the first class our attention is 
now directed, premising that throughout a 
great portion of the western country, except in 
large towns, almost every mechanic is almost 
necessarily a farmer; the population being in 
but few places sufficiently dense to support that 
designation of mechanical employments which 
is common in the eastern and middle states. 

" For the industrious and temperate of this 
class, our country holds forth inducements 
which are not generally known or understood. 

'' The language of indiscriminate panegyric, 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 89 

which has been bestowed on its cHmate and 
soil, has conveyed Uttle information, and is the 
source of many fears and suspicions in the 
minds of people at a distance. Other accounts 
have described the western country as uniform- 
ly sickly; but the habit of exaggeration in its 
favor has been most prevalent; neither need 
we wonder, when much of the information 
communicated, has been afforded by interested 
landholders, or speculators, and by travellers, 
whose views have been superficial, and whose 
journeys have been performed generally, either 
on the rivers or by post roads. 

" The first inquiry of a substantial farmer, 
from one of the old settled states, is mostly, for 
good land in the vicinity of a market; and af- 
terwards, whether the situation be healthy. It 
is true that there are many places in the west- 
ern country, affording the qualities expressed 
in this description, but they are perhaps all oc- 
cupied; and it would be, in several respects, 
more advisable for a farmer, possessing even a 
considerable sum of money in hand, to inquire 
first for a healthy situation, and then good 
land. 

'■'■ The spirit of improvement throughout the 
United States, especially evidenced in canal- 
ling, and railroads, will, it is hoped, in a few 
years, open modes of communication, which 
as yet are wanting, with the markets. 

" The same remarks will apply to the poorer 
class of emigrants. If they value their own 
health, and that of their famihes, the main 



90 peck's guide 

object of their attention will be to secure, if 
possible, a situation remote from the fogs that 
hover over the channels of large rivers, which 
become partly dry in summer, and from the 
neighborhood of swamps, marshes, ponds, and 
small lakes. 

" Every person, on coming from beyond the 
mountains, and especially from the eastern 
States, or Europe, will have to undergo some 
degree of change in his constitution, before it 
becomes naturalized to the climate; and all 
who move from a cold to a considerably warm- 
er part of the western country will experience 
the same alteration; it will, therefore, be wis- 
dom for the individual brought up in a more 
rigorous climate, that he seek a situation 
where the circulation of the air is unimpeded 
and free, and that he avoid those flat and 
marshy districts, which have been already 
described. 

" Those who settle in new countries are 
almost universally exposed to inconveniences 
which have an unfavorable influence on health. 
They are seldom able for a length of time to 
erect comfortable places of residence; and in- 
deed, many postpone this important object of 
attention, even after their circumstances will 
permit them to build comfortable dwelling 
houses. 

'' Wool is mostly a scarce article in new 
settlements, so that cotton and linen garments 
are too frequently worn in winter. There is 
another circumstance, which no doubt has an 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 91 

unfavorable influence on health, especially 
among the poorer class: it is the want, during 
the summer season particularly, of substantial 
food. This is sometimes owing to indolence 
or improvidence; but perhaps oftener, to the" 
circumstances in which a few families are 
placed, at a distance from any established or 
opulent settlement. 

" Erroneous views are too generally enter- 
tained in relation to hardening the human sys- 
tem; and the analogies drawn from savage life, 
are altogether inconclusive. The manners of 
the North American Indians are essentially 
different from those of the whites. It is true, 
there is a portion of the latter, especially in 
Illinois and Missouri, who from infancy are 
educated almost in the habits of the aborigines. 

^' We have frequently heard the example of 
savages referred to, as an argument in favor 
of attempting to strengthen the constitution by 
exposure.* There is plausibility in this; but 

* Uniform exposure to the weather is favorable to 
health. I can affirm this from long experience and obser- 
vation. Our hunters, and surveyors, who uniformly spend 
their time for weeks in the woods and prairies, who wade 
in the water, swim creeks, are drenched in the rains and 
dews, and sleep in the open air or a camp at night, very 
rarely are attacked with fevers. I have known repeated 
instances of young men, brought up delicately in the east- 
ern cities, accustomed, as clerks, to a sedentary life, with 
feeble constitutions, — I have known such repeatedly to 
enter upon the business of surveying the public lands, or 
in the hunting and trapping business, be absent for months, 
and return with robust health. It is a common thing for a 



92 peck's guide 

might not the example of the negroes in the 
lower parts of South Carolina and Georgia, be 
also quoted as evidencing the propriety of liv- 
ing on corn meal and sweet potatoes, and 
working every day in the water of a rice field 
during the sickly season? They are generally 
more healthy than the whites who own them, 
and who reside on the plantations in the sum- 
mer. The civilized man may turn to savage 
life perhaps with safety, as regards health; but 
then he must plunge with the Indian into the 
depths of the forest, and observe consistency 

frontier man, whose health is on the decline, and especially 
when uidications of pulmonary affection appear, to engage 
in a hunting expedition to renovate his health. I state 
these facts, and leave it to the medical faculty to explain 
the why and ivherefore. One circumstance may deserve 
attention. All these nien, as do the Indians, sleep ivith 
their feet towards the fire at night. And it is a connnon 
notion with this class, that if the feet are kept hot through 
the night, however cold the atmosphere, or however much 
exposed the rest of the body, no evil consequences will 
ensue. I have passed many a night in this position, after 
fatiguing rides of thirty or forty niiles in the day on our 
extreme frontiers, and through rains, and never experienced 
any inconvenience to health, if I could get a pallet on the 
cabin floor, and my feet to the fire. 

Those who are exposed to these hardships but occasion- 
ally, when compelled by necessity, and who endeavor to pro- 
tect themselves at all other times, usually suffer after such 
exposure. 

I have observed that children, when left to run in the 
open air and weather, who go barefoot, and oftentimes 
with a single light garment around them, who sleep on the 
floor at night, are more healthy than those who are pro- 
tected. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 93 

in all his habits. These pages are not written, 
however, tor such as are disposed to consider 
themselves beyond the pale of civilized society; 
but lor the reflecting part of the community, 
who can estimate the advantages to be derived 
from a prudent care of health. 

"Much disease, especially in the more re- 
cently settled parts of this country, is conse- 
quent to neglecting simple and comfortable 
precautionary means; sometimes this neglect 
is owing to misdirected industry, and at others 
to laziness or evil habits. 

" To have a dry house, if it be a log one, 
with the openings between the logs well filled 
up, so that it may be kept warm in winter; to 
fill up all the holes in its vicinity which may 
contain stagnant water; to have a good clean 
spring or well, sufficient clothing, and a rea- 
sonable supply of provisions, should be the first 
object of a settler's attention: but frequently a 
little, wet, smoky cabin or hovel is erected, 
with the floor scarcely separated from the 
ground, and admitting the damp and unwhole- 
some air. All hands that can work, are im- 
pelled, by the father's example, to labor beyond 
their strength, and more land is cleared and 
planted with corn than is well tended; for over- 
exertion, change in the manner of living, and 
the influence of other debilitating causes, which 
have been mentioned, bring sickness on at least 
a part of the family, before the summer is half 
over. 

"It is unnecessary for even the poorest emi- 
4# 



94 peck's guide 

grant to encounter these causes of distress, 
unless seduced by the misrepresentations of 
some interested landholder, or by the fantasies 
of his own brain, to an unhealthy and desolate 
situation, where he can neither help himself, 
nor be assisted by others. 

" Many persons on moving into the back 
woods ^ who have been accustomed to the de- 
cencies of life, think it little matter how they 
live, because no one sees them. Thus we have 
known a family of some .opulence to reside for 
years in a cabin unfit for the abode of any hu- 
man being, because they could not find time to 
build a house; and whenever it rained hard, 
the females were necessarily engaged in rolling 
the beds from one corner of the room to anoth- 
er, in order to save them from the water that 
poured in through the roof. This cabin was 
intended at first as only a very temporary resi- 
dence, and was erected on the edge of a swamp, 
for the convenience of being near to a spring. 
How unreasonable must such people be, if they 
expect health! 

" Clothing for winter should be prepared in 
summer. It is a common, but very incorrect 
practice among many farmers, both wesl?, and 
east of the Alleghany mountains, to postpone 
wearing winter clothing until the weather has 
become extremely cold: this is a fruitful source 
of pulmonary diseases, of rheumatisms, and of 
fevers. 

^' With regard to providing a sufficiency of 
nourishing food, no specific directions can be 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 95 

given, further than to recommend, what is much 
neglected — particular attention to a good gar- 
den spot; and to remark, that those who devote 
undivided attention to cultivating the soil, re- 
ceive more uniform supplies of suitable nour- 
ishment than the more indolent, who spend a 
considerable portion of their time in hunting. 

" New settlers are not unfrequentiy troubled 
with diseases of the skin, which are often sup- 
posed to be the itch: for these eruptions they 
generally use repellant external applications; 
this plan of treatment is prejudicial. 

" The most proper time for the removal of 
families to this country from the Atlantic states, 
is early in the spring, while the rivers are full; 
or if the journey be made by land, as soon as 
the roads are sufficiently settled, and the wa- 
ters abated. 

" Persons unaccustomed to the climate of 
the lower Mississippi country, are necessarily 
exposed, whilst there in the summer season, to 
many causes of disease. It will be advisable 
for such to have a prudent care of their health, 
and yet, a care distinct from that finical timidity 
which renders them liable to early attacks of 
sickness. 

" There is one important consideration, 
which perhaps has been somewhat overlooked 
by medical men, who have written on this sub- 
ject. Natives of colder and healthier regions, 
when exposed in southern and sickly climates, 
experience, if they remain any length of time 
without evident and violent di.-^ease, an altera- 



96 peck's guide 

tion in the condition of the liver, and of the 
secreted bile itself; when it passes through the 
bowels, its color being much darker than usual. 
Sometimes, indeed, it appears to be " locked 
up in the liver," the stools having an ashen ap- 
pearance. This state of the biliary secretion 
is frequently accompanied, although the pa- 
tient is otherwise apparently in tolerable health, 
by a pain over the eye-balls, particularly when 
the eyes are roiled upward. 

" The proper mode of treatment for such 
symptoms is, to take without delay, not less 
than twenty grains of calomel, and in eight 
hours a wine glass full of castor oil. The tone 
of the stomach should not be suffered to sink 
too much after the operation of the medicine, 
which, if necessary, may be repeated in twen- 
ty-four hours. Sulphate of quinine, or other 
tonics, w^ith nutritive food, which is easy of di- 
gestion, should also be taken in moderate por- 
tions at a time. 

^' Where diseases are rapid in their progress, 
and dangerous, no time is to be lost. The 
practice of taking salts and other aperients, 
when in exposed situations, and for the pur- 
pose of preventing disease, is injurious. It is 
sufficient, that the bowels be kept in a natural 
and healthy state; for all cathartics, even the 
mildest, have a tendency to nauseate the stom- 
ach, create debility, and weaken the digestive 
faculty. A reduction of tone in the system, 
which is always advantageous, will be more 
safely effected by using somewhat less than 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 97 

usual of animal food, and of spirituous, strong 
vinous, or fermented liquors. The robust will 
derive benefit from losing a little blood. 

'^It ought to be well understood, that as we 
approximate tropical climates, the doses of 
medicine, when taken, should be increased in 
quantity, and repeated with less delay than is 
admissible in colder countries. Exposure to 
the night air is certainly prejudicial; so also is 
the intense heat of the sun, in the middle of 
the day. Violent exercise should also be 
avoided. Bathing daily in water of a comfort- 
able temperature, is a very commendable prac- 
tice ; and cotton worn next the skin is prefera- 
ble to linen. 

^' It is impossible to prevent the influence of 
an atmosphere pregnant with the causes of dis- 
ease; but the operation of those causes may 
generally be counteracted by attention to the 
rules laid down; and it is no small consolation 
to be aware, that on recovery from the first at- 
tack, the system is better adapted to meet and 
sustain a second of a similar nature. The 
reader will understand that we do not allude to 
relapses, occurring while the system is enfee- 
bled by the consequences of disease." 

To the foregoing remarks, I add the follow- 
ing, from an address of Judge Hall to the "An- 
tiquarian and Historical Society of Illinois," 
December 10, 1827. 

"The climate, particularly in reference to 
its influence on the human system, presents an- 
other subject of investigation. The western 



98 peck's guide 

country has been considered unhealthy; and 
there have been writers, whose disturbed im- 
aginations have misled them into a belief that 
the whole land was continually exposed to the 
most awful visitations of Providence, among 
which have been numbered the hurricane, the 
pestilence, and the earthquake. If we have 
been content to smile at such exaggerations, 
while few had leisure to attempt a serious refuta- 
tion, and while the facts upon which any deliber- 
ate opinion must have been based, had not been 
sufficiently tested by experience, the time has 
now arrived when it is no longer excusable to 
submit in silence to the reproaches of ignor- 
ance or malice. It is proper, however, to re- 
mark, as well in extenuation of those who have 
assailed our country, as in the support of the 
confidential denial, which I feel authorized to 
make to their assertions, that a vast improve- 
ment in the article of health has taken place 
within a few years. Diseases are now mild 
which were once malignant, and their occur- 
rence is annually becoming less frequent. This 
happy change affords strong authority for the 
belief, that although the maladies which have 
heretofore afflicted us, were partly imputable to 
the climate, other, and more powerful causes 
of disease must have existed, which have van- 
ished. We who came to the frontier, while 
the axe was still busy in the forest, and when 
thousands of the acres which now yield abun- 
dance to the farmer, were unreclaimed and 
tenantless, have seen the existence of our fel- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 99 

low citizens assailed by other than the ordinary 
ministers of death. Toil, privation and ex- 
posure, have hurried many to the grave; im- 
prudence and carelessness of life, have sent 
crowds of victims prematurely to the tomb. It 
is not to be denied that the margins of our 
great streams in general, and many spots in 
the vicinity of extensive marshes, are subject 
to bihous diseases; but it may be as confidently 
asserted, that the interior country is healthy. 
Yet the first settlers invariably selected the 
rich alluvion lands upon the navigable rivers, 
in preference to the scarcely less fertile soil of 
the prairies, Ijing in situations less accessible, 
and more remote from market. They came to 
a wilderness in which houses were not pre- 
pared for their reception, nor food, other than 
that supplied by nature, provided for their sus- 
tenance. They often encamped on the margin 
of the river exposed to its chilly atmosphere, 
without a tent to shelter, with scarcely a blan- 
ket to protect them. Their first habitations 
were rude cabins, affording scarcely a shelter 
from the rain, and too frail to afford protection 
from the burning heat of the noonday sun, or 
the chilling effects of the midnight blast. As 
their families increased, another and another 
cabin was added, as crazy and as cheerless as 
the first, until, admonished of the increase of 
their own substance, the influx of wealthier 
neighbors, and the general improvement of the 
country around them, they were allured by 
pride to do that to which they never would 



100 



have been impelled by suffering. The gratui- 
tous exposure to the climate, which the back- 
woodsman seems rather to court than avoid, is 
a subject of common remark. No extremity of 
weather confines him to the shelter of his own 
roof Whether the object be business or 
pleasure, it is pursued with the same composure 
amid the shadows of the night, or the howling 
of the tempest, as in the most genial season. 
Nor is this trait of character confined to woods- 
men or to farmers; examples of hardihood are 
contagious, and in this country all ranks of 
people neglect, or despise the ordinary precau- 
tions with respect to health. Judges and law- 
yers, merchants, physicians and ministers of 
the gospel, set the seasons at defiance in the 
pursuit of their respective callings. They 
prosecute their journies regardless of weather; 
and learn at last to feel little inconvenience 
from the exposure, which is silently undermin- 
ing their constitutions. Is it extraordinary that 
people thus exposed should be attacked by vio- 
lent maladies.'' Would it not be more wonder- 
ful that such a careless prodigality of life could 
pass with impunity.'' These remarks might be 
extended; the food of the first settler, consist- 
ing chiefly of fresh meat without vegetables 
and often without salt; the common use of 
ardent spirits, the want of medical aid, by 
which diseases, at first simple, being neglected 
become dangerous; and other evils peculiar to 
a new country, might be noticed as fruitful 
sources of disease; but I have already dwelt 



FOR EMIGRANTS. lOl 

sufficiently on this subject. That this country 
is decidedly healthy, I feel no hesitation in de- 
claring; but neither argument nor naked asser- 
tions will convince the world. Let us collect 
such facts as amount to evidence, and establish 
the truth by undeniable demonstration." 



102 peck's guide 



CHAPTER IV. 



CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND PURSUITS OF THE 
PEOPLE. 

Cotton and Sugar Planters; — Farmers; — Population of the 
large towns and cities; — Frontier class; — Hunters and 
Trappers ; — Boatmen. 

There is great diversity in the character 
and habits of the population of the Valley of 
the Mississippi. 

Those who have emigrated from the Atlantic 
states, as have a very large proportion of those 
persons who were not born in the Valley, of 
course do not differ essentially from the remain- 
ing population of those states. Some slight 
shades of difference are perceptible in such 
persons as have lived long enough in the coun- 
try to become assimilated to the habits, and 
partake of the feelings, of western people. 

Emigrants from Europe have brought the 
peculiarities of the nations and countries from 
whence they have originated, but are fast losing 
their national manners and feelings, and, to 
use a provincial term, will soon become 
" westernized." 



il 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 103 

The march of emigration from the Atlantic 
border has been nearly in a line due west. 
Tennessee was settled by Carolinians, and 
Kentucky by Virginians. Ohio received the 
basis of its population from the states in the 
same parallel, and hence partakes of all the 
varieties from Maryland to New England. 
Michigan is substantially a child of New York. 
The planters of the south have gone to Missis- 
sippi, Louisiana, and the southern part of Ar- 
kansas. Kentucky and Tennessee have spread 
their sons and daughters over Indiana, Illinois 
and Missouri; but the two former states are 
now receiving great numbers of emigrants from 
all the northern states, including Ohio, and 
multitudes from the south, who desire to re- 
move beyond the boundaries and influence of a 
slave population. 

Slavery in the west, keeps nearly in the 
same parallels as it holds in the east, and is 
receding south, as it does on the Atlantic coast. 
Many descendants of the Scotch, Irish and Ger- 
mans, have come into the frontier states from 
Western Pennsylvania. 

We have European emigrants from Great 
Britain and Ireland. Those of the latter are 
more generally found about our large towns 
and cities, and along the lines of canalling. 

The French were the explorers and early 
settlers of the Valley immediately bordering on 
the Mississippi, 150 years since. They formed 
the basis of population of Louisiana a few years 
since, but are relatively diminishing before the 



104 



emigration from other states of the Union . Their 
descendants show many of the pecuhar and 
distinctive traits of that people in all countries. 
They possess mild vivacity, and gaiety, and 
are distinguished for their quiet, inoffensive, 
domestic, frugal, and unenterprising spirit and 
manners. The poorer class of French are 
rather peculiar and unique. Their ancestors 
were isolated from the rest of the world, had 
no object of excitement or ambition, cared little 
for wealth, or the accumulation of property, 
and were accustomed to hunt, make voyages 
in their canoes, smoke and traffic with the In- 
dians. But few of them knew how to read and 
write. Accustomed from infancy to the life of 
huntsmen, trappers and boatmen, they make 
but indifferent farmers. They are contented 
to live in the same rude, but neatly whitewashed 
cabin, cultivate the same cornfields in the same 
mode, and drive the same rudely constructed 
horse cart their fathers did. In the neatness 
of their gardens, which are usually cultivated 
by the females, they excel the Americans. 
They are the coureurs du bois of the West. 

The European Germans are now coming in- 
to the Valley by thousands, and, for a time, 
will retain their manners and language. 

Cotton and Sugar Planters. These people, 

found chiefly in Mississippi, Louisiana, and the 
southern part of Arkansas, have a great degree 
of similarity. They are noted for their high- 
mindedness, generosity, liberality, hospitality, 
sociability, quick sense of honor, resentment of 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 105 

injuries, indolence, and, in too many cases, dis- 
sipation. They are much addicted to the sports 
of the turf and the vices of the gaming table 
Still there are many planters of strictly moral, 
and even religious habits. They are excessive- 
ly jealous of their political rights, yet frank 
and open hearted in their dispositions, and 
carry the duties of hospitality to a great extent. 
Having overseers on most of their plantations, 
the labor being performed by slaves, they have 
much leisure, and are averse to much personal 
attention to business. They dislike care, pro- 
found thinking and deep impressions. The 
young men are volatile, gay, dashing and reck- 
less spirits, fond of excitement and high life. 
There is a fatal propensity amongst the south- 
ern planters to decide quarrels, and even trivial 
disputes by duels. But there are also many 
amiable and noble traits of character amongst 
this class; and if the principles of the Bible 
and religion could be brought to exert a con- 
trolling influence, there would be a noble spirit- 
ed race of people in the southwestern stales. 

It cannot be expected that I should pass in 
entire silence the system of slaveholding in the 
lower Valley, or its influence on the man- 
ners and habits of the people. This state of 
society seems unavoidable at present, though 
I have no idea or expectation it will be per- 
petual. Opposite sentiments and feelings are 
spreading over the whole earth, and a per- 
son must have been a very inattentive observer 
of the tendencies and effects of the diffiision of 



106 peck's guide 

liberal principles not to perceive that heredi- 
tary, domestic servitude must have an end. 

This is a subject, however, that from our 
civil compact, belongs exclusively to the citizens 
of the states concerned; and if not unreasona- 
bly annoyed, the farming slaveholding stated, 
as Kentucky, Tennessee and Missouri, witt 
soon provide for its eventual termination. 
Doubtless, in the cotton and sugar growing 
states it will retain its hold with more tenacity, 
but the influence of free principles will roll on- 
ward until the evil is annihilated. 

The barbarous and unwise regulations in 
some of the planting states, ivhich py^ohibit the 
slaves from being taught to read^ are a serious 
impediment to the moral and religious instruc- 
tion of that numerous and unfortunate class. 
Such laws display on the part of the law makers, 
little knowledge of human nature and the real 
tendency of things. To keep slaves entirely 
ignorant of the rights of man, in this spirit- 
stirring age, is utterly impossible. Seek out 
the remotest and darkest corner of Louisiana, 
and plant every guard that is possible around 
the negro quarters, and the light of truth will 
penetrate. Slaves will find out, for they already 
know it, that they possess rights as men. And 
here is the fatal mistake now committed in the 
southern slaveholding states — legislating against 
the instruction of their slaves — to keep them 
from knowing their rights. They will obtain 
some loose, vague, and undefined notion of the 
doctrine of human rights, and the unrighteous- 



FOR EMIGRANTS, 107 

ness of oppression in this republican country. 
Being kept from all the moral and religious 
instruction which Sabbath schools, the Bible, 
and other good books are calculated to impart, 
and with those undefined notions of liberty, and 
without any moral principle, they are prepared 
to enter into the first insurrectionary movement 
proposed by some artful and talented leader. 
The same notion prevailed in the West Indies 
half a century since, and many of the planters 
resisted and persecuted the benevolent Mora- 
vians, who went there to instruct the blacks in 
the principles and duties of religion. A few of 
the planters reasoned justly. They invited 
these benevolent men on their plantations, and 
gave them full liberty on the Sabbath, and at 
other suitable seasons, to instruct their slaves. 
The happiest effects followed. On these plan- 
tations, where riot, misrule, and threatened in- 
surrections, had once spread a panic through 
the colony, order, quietness and submission 
followed. Such would be the effects if the 
southern planter would invite the minister of 
the gospel and the Sunday school teacher to 
visit his plantation, allow his slaves to be in- 
structed to read, and each to be furnished with 
a copy of the Scriptures. The southern planter 
hourly lives under the most terrific apprehen- 
sions. It is in vain to disguise the fact. As 
Mr. Randolph once significantly said in Con- 
gress, '' ivhen the flight bell rings, the mother 
hugs her infant closer to her breast.'^ Slavery, 
under any circumstances, is a bitter draught — 



lOS peck's guide 

equally bitter to him who tenders the cup, and 
to him who drinks it. But in all the northern 
slaveholding states, it is comparatively mild. 
Its condition would be much alleviated, and 
the planter might sleep securely if he would 
abolish his barbarous laws, more congenial 
with Asiatic despotism than American repub- 
licanism, and provide for his slaves the benefits 
of wholesome instruction. Philanthropy and 
interest unite in their demands upon every 
southern planter to provide Sunday school in- 
struction for his slaves. 

The planting region of the lower Valley fur- 
nishes an immense market for the productions 
and manufactures of the upper Valley. Indi- 
rectly, the Louisiana sugar business is a source 
of profit to the farmer of Illinois and Missouri. 
Pork, beef, corn, corn-meal, flour, potatoes, 
butter, hay, &.c. in vast quantities, go to supply 
these plantations. In laying in their stores, 
the sugar planters usually purchase one barrel 
of second or third quality of beef or pork per 
annum, for each laborer. Large drafts for sugar 
mills, engines and boilers, are made upon the 
Cincinnati and Pittsburg iron foundries. Mules 
and horses are driven from the upper country, 
or from the Mexican dominions, to keep up the 
supply. 

The commerce of the upper country that 
concentrates at New Orleans is amazing, and 
every year is rapidly increasing. Sixteen hun- 
dred arrivals of steamboats took place in 1832, 
and the estimated number in 1835 is 2,300. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 1'09 

Farmers. — In the northern half of the Valley 
the productions, and the modes of cultivation 
and living are such as to characterize a large 
proportion of the population as farmers. No 
country on earth has such facilities for agricul- 
ture. The soil is abundantly fertile, the sea- 
sons ordinarily favorable to the growth and 
maturity of crops, and every farmer in a few 
years, with reasonable industry, becomes com- 
paratively independent. Tobacco and hemp 
are among the staple productions of Kentucky. 

Neat cattle, horses, mules and swine are its 
stock. Some stock growers have monopolized 
the smaller farms till they are surrounded with 
several thousand acres. Blue grass pastures 
furnish summer feed, and extensive fields of 
corn, cut up near the ground, and stacked in 
the fields, furnish stores for fattening stock in 
the winter. 

In some counties, raising of stock has taken 
place of all other business. The Scioto Val- 
ley, and other districts in Ohio, are famous for 
fine, well fed beef Thousands of young cat- 
tle are purchased by the Ohio graziers, at the 
close of winter, of the farmers of Illinois and 
Missouri. The Miami and White-water sec- 
tions of Ohio and Indiana, abound with swine. 
Cincinnati has been the great pork mart of the 
world. 150,000 head of hogs have been fre- 
quently slaughtered there in a season. About 
75,000 is estimated to be the number slaugh- 
tered at that place the present season. This 
apparent falling off in the pork business, at 



IM peck's guide 

Cincinnati, is accounted for by the vast in- 
crease of business at other places. Since the 
opening of the canals in Ohio, many provision 
establishments have been made along their 
line. Much business of the kind is now done 
at Terre Haute and other towns on the Wa- 
bash, — at Madison, Louisville, and other towns 
on the Ohio, — at Alton and other places in Illi- 
nois. 

The farmers of the West are independent 
An feeling, plain in dress, simple in manners, 
frank and hospitable in their dwellings, and 
soon acquire a competency by moderate labor. 
Those from Kentucky, Tennessee, or other 
states south of the Ohio river, have large 
fields, well cultivated, and enclosed with strong 
built rail or worm fences, but they often neg- 
lect to provide spacious barns and other out- 
houses for their grain, hay and stock. The 
influence of habit, is powerful. A Kentuckian 
would look with contempt upon the low fences 
of a New-Englander as indicating thriftless 
habits, while the latter would point at the un- 
sheltered stacks of wheat, and dirty threshingj 
floor of the former, as proof direct of bad 
economy and wastefulness. 

Population of the Cities and large Towns. 
The population of western towns does not dif- 
fer essentially from the same class in the 
Atlantic states, excepting there is much less 
division into grades and ranks, less ignorance, 
low depravity and squalid poverty amongst 
the poor, and less aristocratic feeling amongst 



FOR EMIGRANTS. Ill 

the rich. As there is never any lack of em- 
ployment for laborers of every description, 
there is comparatively no suffering from that 
cause. And the hospitable habits of the peo- 
ple provide for the sick, infirm and helpless. 
Doubtless, our circumstances more than any 
thing else, cause these shades of difference. 
The common mechanic is on a social equality 
with the merchant, the lawyer, the physician, 
and the minister. They have shared in the 
same fatigues and privations, partook of the 
same homely fare, in many instances have fought 
side by side in defence of their homes against 
the inroads of savages, — are frequently elect- 
ed to the same posts of honor, and have 
accumulated property simultaneously. Many 
mechanics in the western cities and towns, are 
the owners of their own dwellings, and of other 
buildings, which they rent. I have known 
many a wealthy merchant, or professional gen- 
tleman occupy on rent, a building worth 
several thousand dollars, the property of some 
industrious mechanic, who, but a few years 
previous, was an apprentice lad, or worked at 
his trade as a journeyman. Any sober, indus- 
trious mechanic can place himself in affluent 
circumstances, and place his children on an 
equality with the children of the commercial 
and professional community, by migrating to 
any of our new and rising western towns. 
They will find no occasion here for combin- 
ations to sustain their interests, nor meet with 
annoyance from gangs of unprincipled foreign- 



112 peck's guide 

ers, under the imposing names of ^^ Trades 
Unions." 

Manufactures of various kinds are carried 
on in our western cities. Pittsburg has been 
characterized as the ^* Birmingham of Ameri- 
ca." The manufactures of iron, machinery 
and glass, and the building of steamboats, are 
carried on to a great extent. 

Iron and salt, are made in great quantities 
in Western Pennsylvania, and Western Vir- 
ginia. Steamboats are built to a considerable 
extent at Fulton, two miles above Cincinnati, 
and occasionally at many other places on the 
Ohio and Mississippi rivers. Alton offers 
great facilities for this business. Cotton bag- 
ging, bale ropes, and cordage, are manufactur- 
ed in Tennessee and Kentucky, The follow- 
ing article from the Covington Enquirer, gives 
a few items of the industry and enterprise of 
Kentucky ,^ — of the manufacture of Newport 
and Covington. Both of these thriving towns 
lie at the mouth of the Licking river, the one 
on the right bank, and the other on the left, 
and both in direct view of Cincinnati. 

MANUFACTURES IN COVINGTON AND NEWPORT. 

" Founding the calculation upon the actual 
manufactures of October, and the known pow- 
er of their machinery, the Company will the 
ensuing year, give employment to more than 
four hundred operatives, and manufacture, 

60,000 lbs. of Cotton Bagging, 

84,000 do Cotton Yarns, 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 113 

274,268 lbs. Bale Rope, 
448,000 do Cordage, 
44,592 yards Linseys, 
63,588 do Cotton Plains, 
97,344 do Kentucky Jeans, 
548,530 do Cotton Bagging and Hemp. 
Estimating Bale Rope and Cotton Bagging 
at 33 per cent under the price at which the 
Company have sold these articles for the last 
six months, the manufactures of this Company 
during the ensuing year will amount to 
^358,548 44. Almost all the manufactures at 
Covington and Newport being exported to 
foreign markets, it will result that the annual 
exports from these points will, in round num- 
bers, be from the 

Interior $750,000 

Campbell County 150,000 

Boone County 234,000 

Covington 548,500 

Newport 358,500 

$2,041,000 
The Newport Manufacturing Company has 
depended principally for its supply of Hemp, 
on the production of Mason county, of which 
Maysville is the market; — this season they 
have not been able to get a supply at Maysville, 
and it is a remarkable fact in the history of 
the Hemp manufactories in Kentucky, that 
this company, owing to the scarcity and high 
prices of Hemp in Kentucky, has imported this 
season 354,201 lbs. Russia Hemp. 



114 peck's guide 

Various manufactures are springing up in 
all the new states, which will be noticed under 
their proper heads. 

The number of merchants and traders is 
very great in the Valley of the Mississippi, yet 
^mercantile business is rapidly increasing. — 
/ Thousands of the farmers of the West, are 
partial traders. They take their own produce, 
in their own flat boats, down the rivers to the 
market of the lower country. 

Frontier class of Population. The rough, 
sturdy habits of the backwoodsmen, living in 
that plenty which depends on God and nature, 
have laid the foundation of independent thought 
and feeling deep in the minds of western 
people. 

Generally, in all the western settlements, 
three classes, like the waves of the ocean, 
have rolled one after the other. First comes the 
Poineer, who depends for the subsistence of 
his family chiefly upon the natural growth of 
vegetation, called the '^ range," and the pro- 
ceeds of hunting. His implements of agricul- 
tijre are rude, chiefly of his own make, and 
/his efforts directed mainly to a crop of corn, 
and a '^ truck patch." The last is a rude 
garden for growing cabbage, beans, corn for 
roasting ears, cucumbers and potatoes. A log 
cabin, and occasionally a stable and corncrib, 
and a field of a dozen acres, the timber girdled 
or " deadened," and fenced, are enough for 
his occupancy. It is quite immaterial whether 
he ever becomes the owner of the soil. He is 



FOR. EMIGRANTS. 115 

the occupant for the time being, pays no rent, 
and feels as independent as the '' lord of the 
manor." With a horse, cow, and one or two 
breeders of swine, he strikes into the woods 
with his family, and becomes the founder of a 
new county, or perhaps state. He builds his 
cabin, gathers around him a few other families 
of similar taste and habits, and occupies till 
the range is somewhat subdued, and hunting a 
little precarious, or, which is more frequently the 
case, till neighbors crowd around, roads, bridges 
and fields annoy him, and he lacks elbow-room. 
The pre-emption law enables him to dispose of 
his cabin and cornfield, to the next class of 
emigrants, and, to employ his own figures, he 
'' breaks for the high timber," — '' clears out 
for the New Purchase," or migrates to Arkan- 
sas or Texas, to work the same process over. 

The next class of emigrants purchase the 
lands, add " field to field," clear out the roads, 
throw rough bridges over the streams, put up 
hewn log houses, with glass windows, and 
brick or stone chimneys, occasionally plant 
orchards, build mills, school houses, court 
houses, &.C., and exhibit the picture and forms 
of plain, frugal, civilized life. 

Another wave rolls on. The men of capital / 
and enterprise come. The ^' settler" is ready 
to sell out, and take the advantage of the rise 
of property, — push farther into the interior, 
and become himself, a man of capital and en- 
terprise in time. The small village rises to ♦ 
a spacious town or city, — substantial edifices 



116 peck's guide 

of brick, extensive fields, orchards, gardens — 
colleges and churches are seen. Broadcloths, 
silks, leghorns, crapes, and all the refinements, 
luxuries, elegancies, frivolities and fashions, 
are in vogue. Thus wave after wave is rolling 
westward — the real el dorado is still farther on. 

A portion of the two first classes remain 
stationary amidst the general movement, im- 
j)rove their habits and condition, and rise in 
/ the scale of society. 

The writer has travelled much amongst the 
first class — the real pioneers. He has lived 
many years in connexion with the second 
grade, and now the third wave is sweeping over 
large districts of Indiana, Illinois and Missouri. 
Migration has become almost a habit in the 
west. Hundreds of men can be found, not 
X fifty years of age, who have feettled for the 
fourth, fifth, or sixth time on a new spot. To 
sell out and remove only a few hundred miles, 
makes up a portion of the variety of backwoods 
life and manners. 

But to return to the Frontier class. 

1. Dress. — The hunting shirt is universally 
worn. This is a kind of loose, open frock, 
reaching halfway down the thighs, with large 
sleeves, the body open in front, lapped over, 
and belted with a leathern girdle, held together 
with a buckle. The cape is large, and usually 
fringed with different colored cloth from that 
of the body. The bosom of this dress some- 
times serves as a wallet for a "chunk" of 
bread, jerk or smoke-dried venison, and other 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 117 

articles. It is made either of dressed deer 
skins, linsey, coarse linen, or cotton. The 
shirt, waistcoat and pantaloons are of similar 
articles and of the customary form. Wrappers 
of cloth or dressed skins, called ''leggins " are 
tied round the legs when travelling. Moccasins 
of deer skins, shoe packs, and rough shoes, 
the leather tanned and cobbled by the owner, 
are worn on the feet. 

The females' dress in a coarse gown oi 
cotton, a bonnet of the same stuff, and denomi- 
nated in the eastern states a "sun-bonnet." 
The latter is constantly worn through the day, 
especially when company is present. The 
clothing for both sexes is made at home. The 
wheel and loom are common articles of furniture 
in every cabin. 

2. Dwellings. — "Cabin" is the name for a 
plain, rough log-house, throughout the west. 
The spot being selected, usually in the timbered 
land, and near some spring, the first operation 
of the newly arrived emigrant is to cut about 
40 logs of the proper size and length for a 
single cabin, or twice that number for a double 
one, and haul them to the spot. A large oak 
or other suitable timber, of straight grain, and 
free from limbs, is selected for clapboards for 
the roof These are four feet in length, split 
with a froe six or eight inches wide, and half 
an inch thick. Puncheons are used for the 
floor. These are made by splitting trees about 
eighteen inches in diameter into slabs, two or 
three inches in thickness, and hewn on the 
5# 



lid peck's guide 

upper surface. The door way is made by 
cutting out the logs after raising, of a suitable 
width, and putting upright pieces of timber at 
the sides. The shutter is made of clapboards^ 
pinned on cross pieces, hung by wooden hinges, 
and fastened by a wooden latch. A similar 
aperture, but is wider made at one end for the 
chimney. The men of the settlement, when 
notified, collect and raise the building. Four 
stout men with axes are placed on the corners 
to notch the logs together, while the rest of the 
company lift them up. After the roof is on the 
body of the building, it is slightly hewed down 
both out and inside. The roof is formed by 
shortening each end log in succession till one 
log forms the comb of the roof. The clap- 
boards are put on so as to cover all cracks, 
and held down by poles or small logs. 

The chimney is built of sticks of wood, the 
largest at the bottom, and the smallest at the 
top, and laid up with a supply of mud or clay 
mortar. The interstices between the logs are 
chinked with strips of wood and daubed with 
mortar both outside and in. A double cabin con- 
sists of two such buildings with a space of 10 or 
12 feet between, over which the roof extends. 

A log house y in western parlance, differs from 
a cabin in the logs being hewn on two sides to 
an equal thickness before raising, — in having 
a framed and shingled roof, a brick or stone 
chimney, windows, tight floors, and are fre- 
quently clapboarded on the outside and plaster- 
ed within. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 119 

A log house thus finished, costs more than 
a framed one. Cabins are often the temporary 
dwelUngs of opulent and highly respectable 
families. 

The axe, auger, froe, drawing knife, broad- 
axe, and crosscut saw are the only tools re- 
quired in constructing these rude edifices; — 
sometimes the axe and auger only are employ- 
ed. Not a nail or pane of glass is needed. 
Cabins are by no means as wretched for 
residences as their name imports. 

They are often roomy, comfortable and neat. 
If one is not sufficient to accommodate the 
family, another is added, and another until 
sufficient room is obtained. 

3. Furniture and mode of living;. — The genuine 
backwoodsman makes himself and family com- 
fortable and contented where those, unac- 
customed to his mode of life, would live in un- 
availing regret, or make a thousand awkward 
apologies on the visit of a neighbor or traveller. 
A table is made of a split slab and supported 
by four round legs. Clapboards supported by 
pins stuck in the logs answer for shelves for 
table furniture. The bedstead is often made 
in the corner of the room by sticks placed in 
the logs, supported at the outward corner by a 
post, on which clapboards are laid, the ends of 
which enter the wall between the logs, and 
which support the bedding. On the arrival of 
travellers or visiters, the bed clothing is shared 
with them, being spread on the puncheon floor 
that the feet may project towards the fire. 



120 



Many a night has the writer passed in this 
manner, after a fatiguing day's ride, and re- 
posed more comfortably than on a bed of down 
in a spacious mansion. All the family of both 
sexes, with all the strangers who arrive, often 
lodge in the same room. In that case the un- 
der garments are never taken off, and no 
consciousness of impropriety or indehcacy of 
feeling is manifested. A few pins stuck in the 
wall of the cabin display the dresses of the 
women and the hunting shirts of the men. 
Two small forks or bucks-horns fastened to a 
joist are indispensable articles for the support 
of the rifle. A loose floor of clapboards, and 
supported by round poles, is thrown over head 
for a loft which furnishes a place to throw any 
articles not immediately wanted, and is fre- 
quently used for a lodging place for the young- 
er branches of the family. A ladder planted 
in the corner behind the door answers the 
purpose of stairs. 

The necessary table and kitchen furniture 
are a few pewter dishes and spoons, knives 
and forks, (for which however, the common 
hunting knife is often a substitute,) tin cups for 
coffee or milk, a water pail and a small gourd 
or calabash for water, with a pot and iron 
Patch oven, constitute the chief articles. Add 
to these a tray for wetting up meal for corn 
bread, a coffeepot and set of cups and saucers, 
a set of common plates, and the cabin is 
furnished. The hominy mortar and hand mill 
are in use in all frontier settlements. The 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 121 

first consists of a block of wood with an ex- 
cavation burned at one end and scraped out 
with an iron tool, wide at top and narrow at the 
bottom that the action of the pestle may operate 
to the best advantage. Sometimes a stump of 
a large tree is excavated while in its natural 
position. An elastic pole, 20 or 30 feet in 
length, with the large end fastened under the 
ground log of the cabin, and the other elevated 
10 or 15 feet and supported by two forks, to 
which a pestle 5 or 6 inches in diameter and 8 
or 10 feet long is fixed on the elevated end by 
a large mortice, and a pin put through its 
lower end so that two persons can work it in 
conjunction. This is much used for pounding 
corn. A very simple instrument to answer the 
same purpose, is a circular piece of tin, per- 
forated, and attached to a piece of wood like a 
grater, on which the ears of corn are rubbed 
for meal. The hand mill is in the same form 
as that used in Judea in the time of our Savior. 
Two circular stones, about 18 inches in diam- 
eter constructed hke ordinary mill stones, with 
a staff let into the runner or upper stone near 
its outer edge, with the upper end inserted in 
a joist or board over head, and turned by the 
hands of two persons while one feeds it with 
corn. Horse mills follow the mortar and hand 
mill in the scale of improvement. They are 
constructed variously. A hand mill is the most 
simple. A large upright post is placed on a 
gudgeon, with shafts extending horizontally 15 
or 20 feet. Around the ends of these is a band 



PECK S GUIDE 

of raw hide twisted, which passes around the 
trundle head and turns the spindle and com- 
municates motion to the stone. A cog mill is 
formed by constructing a rim with cogs upon 
the shafts, and a trundle head to correspond. 
Each person furnishes his own horses to turn 
the mill, performs his own grinding, and pays 
toll to the owner for use of the mill. Mills 
with the wheel on an inclined plane, and carried 
by oxen standing on the wheel, are much in 
use in those sections where water power is not 
convenient, but these indicate an advance to 
the second grade of society. 

Instead of bolting cloths, the frontier people 
use a sieve or as called here, a ''search." 
This is made from a deer skin prepared to re- 
semble parchment, stretched on a hoop and 
perforated full of holes with a hot wire. 

Every backwoodsman carries on all occasions, 
the means of furnishing his meat. The rifle, 
bullet pouch and horn, hunting knife, horse 
and dog are his constant companions when 
from home, and woe be to the wolf, bear, deer 
or turkey that comes within one hundred and 
fifty yards of his trail. 

With the first emigration there are few 
mechanics; hence every settler becomes ex- 
pert in supplying his own necessaries. Besides 
clearing land, building cabins, and making 
fences, he stocks his own plough, repairs his 
wagon and his harness, tans his own leather, 
makes his shoes, tables, bedsteads, stools or 
seats, trays and a hundred other articles. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 123 

These may be rudely constructed, but they 
answer his purpose very well. 

The following extracts from the graphic 
" Sketches of the West," by James Hall, 
Esq. completes this extended picture of back- 
woods manners. 

" The traveller, accustomed to different modes 
of life, is struck with the rude and uncomforta- 
ble appearance of every thing about this peo- 
ple, — the rudeness of their habitations, the 
carelessness of their agriculture, the unsightly 
coarseness of all their implements and furniture, 
the unambitious homeliness of all their goods 
and chattels, except the axe, the rifle, and the 
horse — these being invariably the best and 
handsomest which their means enable them to 
procure. But he is mistaken in supposing them 
indolent or improvident ; and is little aware 
how much ingenuity and toil have been exerted 
in procuring the few comforts which they pos- 
sess, in a country without arts, mechanics, 
money, or commercial intercourse. 

^'The backwoodsman has many substantial 
enjoyments. After the fatigue of his journey, 
and a short season of privation and danger, he 
finds himself surrounded with plenty. His 
cattle, hogs, and poultry, supply his table with 
meat; the forest abounds in game; the fertile 
soil yields abundant crops; he has, of course, 
bread, milk, and butter; the rivers furnish fish, 
and the woods honey. For these various 
articles, there is, at first, no market, and the 
farmer acquires the generous habit of spread- 



124 peck's guide 

ing them profusely on his table, and giving 
them freely to a hungry traveller and an indigent 
neighbor. 

*' Hospitality and kindness are among the 
virtues of the first settlers. Exposed to com- 
mon dangers and toils, they become united by 
the closest ties of social intercourse. Accus- 
tomed to arm in each other's defence, to aid in 
each other's labor, to assist in the affectionate 
duty of nursing the sick, and the mournful 
office of burying the dead, the best affections 
of the heart are kept in constant exercise; and 
there is, perhaps, no class of men in our coun- 
try, who obey the calls of benevolence, with 
such cheerful promptness, or with so liberal a 
sacrifice of personal convenience. 

^^ We read marvellous stories of the ferocity 
of western men. The name of Kentuckian is 
constantly associated with the idea of fighting, 
dirking, and gouging. The people of whom 
we are now writing do not deserve this charac- 
ter. They live together in great harmony, 
with little contention' and less litigation. The 
backwoodsmen are a generous and placable 
race. They are bold and impetuous; and 
when differences do arise among them, they 
are more apt to give vent to their resentment at 
once, than to brood over their wrongs, or to 
seek legal redress. But this conduct is pro- 
ductive of harmony ; for men are always more 
guarded in their deportment to each other, and 
more cautious of giving offence, when they 
know that the insult will be quickly felt, and 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 125 

instantly resented, than when the consequences 
of an offensive action are doubtful, and the re- 
taliation distant. We have no evidence that 
the pioneers of Kentucky were quarrelsome or 
cruel; and an intimate acquaintance with the 
same race, at a later period, has led the writer to 
the conclusion, that they are a humane people; 
bold and daring, when opposed to an enemy, 
but amiable in their intercourse with each other 
and with strangers, and habitually inclined to 
peace." 

In morals and the essential principles of re- 
ligion, this class of people are by no means so-^'^ 
defective as many imagine. The writer has 
repeatedly been in settlements and districts be- 
yond the pale of civil and criminal law, where 
the people are a ^'law unto themselves," where 
courts, lawyers, sheriffs, and constables existed 
not, and yet has seen as much quiet and order, 
and more honesty in paying just debts, than 
where legal restraints operated in all their 
force. The turpitude of vice and the majesty 
of virtue, were as apparent as in older settle- 
ments. Industry, in laboring or hunting, 
bravery in war, candor, honesty, and hospitality 
were rewarded with the confidence and honor 
of the people. Regulating parties would ex- 
ist, and thieves, rogues and counterfeiters were 
sure to receive a striped Jacket " worked 
nineteen to the dozen," and by this mode of 
operation, induced to ^^ clear out;" but truth, 
uprightness, honesty and sincerity are always 
respected. Many of the frontier class are 
6 



illiterate, but they are by no means ignorant. 
They are a shrewd, observing, thinking people. 
They may not have learned the black marks 
in books, but they have studied men and things, 
and have a quick insight into human nature. 
They are not inattentive to religion, though 
their opportunities of religious instruction are 
few, compared with old countries. They have 
prejudices and fears about many of the organi- 
zed benevolent societies of the present age, 
yet there are no people more readily disposed 
to attend religious meetings, and whose hearts 
are more readily affected with the gospel than 
the backwoods people; and as large a propor- 
tion are orderly professors of religion as in any 
part of the Union. Ministers of the gospel and 
Missionaries, who can suit themselves to the 
circumstances and habits of frontier people, — 
who hke Paul, can '^become all things to all 
men," — find pleasant and interesting fields of 
labor on all our frontiers. But let such per- 
sons show fastidiousness, affect superior in- 
telligence and virtue, catechise the people for 
their plainness and simphcity of manners, and 
draw invidious comparisons, and they are sure 
to be "used up," or left without hearers, to 
deplore the " dark clouds " of ignorance and 
prejudice in the west. 

Hunters and Trappers. Entirely beyond the 
boundaries of civilization are many hundreds 
of a unique class, distinguished by the terms 
Hunters and Trappers. They are engaged in 
hunting buffalo and other wild game, and trap- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 127 

ping for beaver. They are found upon the 
vast prairies of the West and Northwest, — in 
all the defiles and along the streams of the 
Rocky mountains, and in various parts of the 
Oregon Territory, to the peninsula of Califor- 
nia. They are an enterprising and erratic 
race from almost every state, and are usually 
in the employ of persons of capital and enter- 
prise, and who are concerned in the fur and 
peltry business. Expeditions for one, two, or 
three years, are fitted out from St. Louis, or 
some commercial point, consisting of compa- 
nies, who ascend the rivers to the regions of 
fur. The hunters and trappers, receive a pro- 
portion of the profits of the expedition. Some 
become so enamored with this wandering and 
exposed life as to lose all desire of returning 
to the abodes of civilization, and remain for 
the rest of their lives in the American deserts. 
There are individuals, who are graduates of 
colleges, and who once stood high in the cir- 
cles of refinement and taste, that have passed 
more than twenty years amongst the roaming 
tribes of the Rocky mountains, or on the 
western slope, till they have apparently lost all 
feelings towards civilized life. They have af- 
forded an interesting but melancholy example 
of the tendencies of human nature towards the 
degraded state of savages. The improvement 
of the species is a slow and laborious process, 
— the deterioration is rapid, and requires only/ 
to be divested of restraint, and left to its own 
unaided tendencies. Many others have re- 



1S8 peck's guide 

turned to the habits of civilization, and some 
with fortunes made from the woods and prai- 
ries. 

Boatmen. These are the fresh water sailors 
of the West, with much of the Hght hearted, 
reckless character of the sons of the Ocean, 
including peculiar shades of their own. Be- 
fore the introduction of Steamboats on the 
western waters, its immense commerce was 
carried on by means of keel boats, and barges. 
The former is much in the shape of a canal boat, 
long, slim-built, sharp at each end, and pro- 
pelled by setting poles and the cordelle or long 
rope. The barge is longer, and has a bow 
and stern. Both are calculated to ascend 
streams but by a very slow process. Each 
boat would require from ten to thirty hands, 
according to its size. A number of these 
boats frequently sailed in company. The 
boatmen were proverbially lawless at every 
town and landing, and indulged without re- 
straint in every species of dissipation, debauch- 
ery and excess. But this race has become 
reformed, or nearly extinct; — yes, reformed 
by the mighty power of steam. A steam- 
boat, with half the crew of a barge or 
keel, will carry ten times the burden, and 
perform six or eight trips in the time it took a 
keel boat to make one voyage. Thousands of 
flat boats, or ^' broad horns," as they are call- 
ed, pass doivn the rivers with the produce 
of the country, which are managed by the 
farmers of the West, but never return up 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 129 

stream. They are sold for lumber, and the 
owners, after disposing of the cargo, return 
by steam. The number of boatmen on the 
western waters is not only greatly reduced^ but 
those that remain are fast losing their original 
character. 



130 peck's guide 



CHAPTER V 



PUBLIC LANDS. 



System of Surveys. — ^IMeridian and Base Lines. — Town- 
ships. — Diagram of a township surveyed into Sections. 
— Land Districts and Offices. — Pre-emption rights. — 
MiUtary Bounty Lands. — Taxes. — Valuable Tracts of 
country imsettled. 

In all the new states and territories, the 
lands which are owned by the general govern- 
ment, are surveyed and sold under one general 
system. Several offices, each under the direc- 
tion of a surveyor general, have been establish- 
ed by acts of Congress, and districts, em- 
bracing one or more states, assigned them. The 
office for the surveys of all public lands in 
Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, and the Wisconsin 
country is located at Cincinnati. The one in- 
cluding the states of Illinois and Missouri, and 
the territory of Arkansas is at St. Louis. 
Deputy surveyors are employed to do the work 
at a stipulated rate per mile, generally from 
three to four dollars, who employ chain bear- 
ers, an axe, and flag man, and a camp-keeper. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 131 

They are exposed to great fatigue and hard- 
ship, spending two or three months at a time 
in the woods and prairies, with slight, moveable 
camps for shelter. 

In the surveys, ^^ meridian^^ lines are first 
established, running north from the mouth of 
some noted river. These are intersected with 
'^ base^^ lines. 

There are five principal meridians in the land 
surveys in the west. 

The ^^ First Principal Meyidian^^ is a line due 
north from the mouth of the Miami. 

The ^' Second Principal Meridian'''' is a line 
due north from the mouth of Little Blue river, in 
Indiana. 

The *^ Third Principal Meridian^^ IS, a line due 
north from the mouth of the Ohio. 

The ^^ Fourth Principal Meridian^'' is a line 
due north from the mouth of the Illinois. 

The " Fijth Principal Meridian''^ is a line due 
north from the mouth of the Arkansas. Another 
Meridian is used for Michigan, which passes 
through the central part of the state. Its base 
line extends from about the middle of lake St. 
Clair, across the state west to lake Michigan. 
Each of these meridians has its own base line. 

The surveys connected with the third and 
fourth meridians, and a small portion of the 
second, embrace the state of Illinois. 

The base line for both the second and third 
principal meridians commences at Diamond 
Island, in Ohio, opposite Indiana, and runs due 



132 peck's guide 

west till it strikes the Mississippi, a few miles 
below St. Louis. 

All the townships in Illinois, south and east of 
the Illinois river, are numhered from this base 
line either north or south. 

The third principal meridian terminates with 
the northern boundaiT of the state. 

The fourth principal meridian commences in 
in the centre of the channel, and at the mouth 
of the Illinois river, but immediately crosses 
to the east shore, and passes up on that 
side, (and at one place nearly fourteen miles 
distant) to a point in the channel of the river, 
seventy-two miles from its moutJi. Here its 
base line commences and extends across the 
peninsula to the Mississippi, a short distance 
above Quincy. The fourth principal meridian 
is continued northward through the military 
tract, and across Rock river, to a curve in 
the Mississippi at the upper rapids, in town- 
ship eighteen north, and about twelve or fifteen 
miles above Rock Island. It here crosses and 
passes up the west side of the Mississippi river 
fifty-three miles, and recrosses into Illinois, and 
j)asses through the town of Galena to the 
northern boundary of the state. It is thence 
continued to the Wisconsin river and made 
the principal meridian for the surveys of the 
territory, wiiile the northern boundary line of 
the state is constituted its base line for that 
region. 

Having formed a principal meridian with its 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 133 

corresponding base line, for a district of coun- 
try, the next operation of the surveyor is to di- 
vide this into tracts of six miles square, called 
*^ townships.''^ 

In numbering the townships east or west from 
a principal meridian, they are called '* ranges,'^ 
meaning a range of townships; but in number- 
ing nort/i or south from a base line, they are call- 
ed ^Hoimships.'' Thus a tract of land is said to 
be situated in township four north in range 
three east, from the third principal meridian; 
or as the case may be. 

Townships are subdivided into square miles, 
or tracts of 640 acres each, called ^^ sections.'" 
If near timber, trees are marked and numbered 
with the section, township, and range, near 
each sectional corner. If in a large prairie, a 
mound is raised to designate the corner, and a 
billet of charred wood buried, if no rock is 
near. Sections are divided into halves by a 
line north and south, and into quarters by a 
transverse line. In sales under certain condi- 
tions, quarters are sold in equal subdivisions 
of forty acres each, at one dollar and twenty- 
five cents per acre. Any person, whether 
a native born citizen, or a foreigner, may 
purchase forty acres of the richest soil, 
and receive an indisputable title, for fifty 
dollars. 

Ranges are townships counted either east 
or west from meridians. 

Toimships are counted either north or south 
from their respective base lines. 



134 



feck's guide 



Fractions, are parts of quarter sections inter- 
sected by streams or confirmed claims. 

The parts of townships, sections, quarters, 
&c. made at the lines of either townships or 
meridians are called excesses or deficiencies. 

Sections, or miles square are numbered, begin- 
ning in the northeast corner of the township, 
progressively west to the range line, and then 
progressively east to the range line, alternately, 
terminating at the southeast corner of the town- 
ship, from one to thirty-six, as in the following 
diagram : 



6 


5 


4 


3 


2 1 


7 


8 


9 


10 


11 


12 


18 


17 


16* 


15 


14 


13 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


30 


29 


28 


27 


26 


25 


31 

1 


32 


33 


34 


35 


36 

i 



Appropriated for schools in the township.^ 



^ FOR EMIGRANTS. 135 

I have been thus particular in this account of 
the surveys of public lands, to exhibit the sim- 
plicity of a system, that to strangers, unac- 
quainted with the method of numbering the sec- 
tions, and the various subdivisions, appears 
perplexing and confused. 

All the lands of Congress owned in Ohio 
have been surveyed, and with the exceptions 
of some Indian reservations, have been brought 
into market. In Indiana, all the lands pur- 
chased of the Indians have been surveyed, and 
with the exception of about ninety townships 
and fractional townships, have been offered for 
^ale. These, amounting to about two millions 
of acres, will be offered for sale the present 
year. In Michigan, nearly all the ceded lands 
have been surveyed and brought into market. 
The unsurveyed portion is situated in the 
neighborhood of Saginau bay; a part of which 
may be ready for market within the current 
year. 

In the Wisconsin Territory, west of lake 
Michigan, all the lands in the Wisconsin 
district, which lies between the state of Illinois 
and the Wisconsin river, have been surveyed; 
and in addition to the lands already offered 
for sale in the Green Bay district, about 65 town- 
ships, and fractional townships, have been sur- 
veyed and are ready for market. The surveys 
of the whole country west of lake Michigan 
and south of the Wisconsin river, in Illinois 
and Wisconsin territory, will soon be surveyed 
and in market. Here are many millions of the 



136 



finest lands on earth, lying along the Des 
Pleines, Fox, and Rock rivers, and their 
tributaries, well watered, rich soil, a healthy 
atmosphere, and facilities to market. A tem- 
porary scarcity of timber in some parts of this 
region will retard settlements, for a time; but 
this difficulty will be obviated, by the rapidity 
with which prairie land turns to a timbered 
region, wherever, by contiguous settlements, 
the wild grass becomes subdued, and by the 
discovery of coal beds. Much of it is a mineral 
region. In Illinois, the surveys are now com- 
pleted in the Danville district, and in the 
southern part of the Chicago district. They 
are nearly completed along Rock river and the 
Mississippi. The unsurveyed portion is along 
Fox river, Des Pleines and the shore of lake 
Michigan, in the northeastern part of the state. 
Emigrants, however, do not wait for surveys 
and sales. They are settling over this fine 
portion of the state, in anticipation of purchases. 
In Missouri, besides the former surveys, the 
exterior lines of 138 townships, and the sub- 
division into sections and quarters, 30 town- 
ships in the northern part of the state, and 
contracts for running the exterior lines of 189 
townships on the waters of the Osage and 
Grand rivers have been made. A large portion 
of this state is now surveyed and in market. 
Surveys are progressing in Arkansas, and 
large bodies of land are proclaimed for sale in 
that district. 

I have no data before me that will enable 



FOR EMIGHANTS. 137 

me definitely to show the amount of public lands 
now remaining unsold, in each land office dis- 
trict. In another place I have already given 
an estimate of the amount of public lands, 
within the organized states and territoriesr, re- 
maining unsold, compared with the amount sold 
in past years. 

The following table exhibits the number of 
acres sold in the districts embraced more im- 
i mediately within the range of this Guide, for 
1834, and the three first quarters of 1835, with 
the names of each district in each state. It is 
constructed from the Report of the Commission- 
er of the General Land Office to the Treasury 
Department, December 5th, 1835. The sales 
of the last quarter of 1835, in Illinois, and pro- 
bably in the other states, greatly exceeded 
either the other quarters, and which will be 
exhibited in the annual report of the Com- 
missioner in December, 1836. 



138 



PECK S GUIDE 



Statement of the amount of Public Lands, sold at 
the several Land Offices in Ohio, Indiana , 
Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, Missouri, and 
Arkansas, in 1834. 



Land Offices. 



Acres and 



Land Offices. 



I Acres and 
Uiundredtha 



Ohio. 
Marietta 
Zanesville 
Steul>envi]le, do 
Chilicotlie, do 

Cincinnati, do 

Wooster, do 

Wapaghkonetta do 
Bucyru3 do 

Total for ihe State, 

iNDtANA. 

Jeffersonville district. 



district, 11,999.52 



33,877. 23 

4,349. 19 

21,309. 32 

27,369. 52 

9,448. 77 

125,417. 13 

245,078. 56 



Vincennes 
Indianopolis 
Cravvfordsville 
Fort Wayne 
La Porte 



478,847. 24 



67,826. 11 
56,765. 80 
204,526. 63 
161,477. 87 
96,350. 30 
86,709. 73 



Total for the State, 673,656. 44 

Illinois. 
Shawneetown district. 6,904. 24 
Kaskaskia do 15,196. 52 



Edwardsville 

Vandalia 

Palestine 

Springfield 

Danville 

Quincy 



Total for the State, 



124,302. 19 
20,^207. 61 
22,135. 69 
66,804. 25 
62,331. 38 
36,131. 59 

354,013. 47 



Michigan Territory 



Detroit 

Monroe 



district 136,410, 69 
do 233,768. 30 



White Pigeon Prairie ) jgg 344^ 47 



do 



Total for the Territory498,423. 46 

Wisconsin Territory. 

Mineral Point dist. 14,336.67 



Missouri. 



St. Louis 

Fayette 

Palnnyra 

Jackson 

Lexington 



district, 
do 
do 
do 
do 



43,634. 68 
71,049. 74 
76,241. 35 
18,882. 11 
43,983. 80 



Total for the State, 253,791. 70 

Arkansas Territory. 

Batesville district. 8,051. 31 

Little Rock do 25,799. 74 

Washington do 65,145. 88 

Favetteville do 24,514. 94 

Helena do 26,244. 59 

Total for the Territory 149,756. 46 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 



139 



Statement of the amount of Public Lands, sold at 
the several Land Offices in Ohio, Indiana, 
Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, Missouri, and 
Arkansas , from January 1st, to September 30th, 
1835, including nine months. 



Land Offices. 


Acres and 
hundredths 


Land Offices. 


Acres and 
hundredths 


Ohio. 


Michigan. 




Marietta Dist. ] 1,012. 98 


Detroit Dist. 


213,763. 57 


Zanesville do 42,978. 36 


Brownson do 


400,722. 48 


SteubenvilJe do 3,649 29 


Monroe do 


446,631. 61 


Chilicothe do 12,586 87 


Total for Michigan > 


1,061,127. 66 


Cincinnati do 20,105. 76 


proper, J 


Wooster do 5,157.68 






Wapaghkonetta 1 ^^ 103.020.23 


Wisconsin. 




and Lima, i 
Bucyrus do 
Total for the State, 


154,706 63 


Mineral Point Dist. 
Green Bay do 
Total for Wisconsin 
Territory, 


67,052. 55 
68,365. 53 


353,217, 80 


j 135,418. 08 


IWDIANA. 






Jeffersonville Dist, 44,634.81 


Missouri. 




Vincennes do 70,903. 62 


St. Louis Dist. 


32,914. 57 


Indianapolis do 158,786. 68 


Fayette do 


55,839. 58 


Crawfordsville do 108,0.55.22 


Palmyra do 


101,018.00 


Fort Wayne do 148,864.28 


Jackson do 


28,995. 19 


La Porte do 227,702.35 


Lexington do 


42,801. 45 


Total for the State, 758,946. 96 


Springfield do 


320. 00 




Total for the State, 


261,888. 79 


Illinois. 






Shawneetown Dist. .5,754. 08 


Arkansas. 




Kaskaskia do 13,814. 38 


Batesville Dist. 


2,021. 22 


Edwardsviile do 123,638.07 


Little Rock do 


22,291.92 


Vandalia do 16,253. 46 


Washington do 


43,360. 81 


Palestine do 14,088. 01 


Fayetteville do 


8,723. 72 


Springfield do 316,966.70 


Helena do 


312,169. 09 


Danville do 94,491 35 
auincy do *40,274. 58 


Total fortheTarritory 388,566. 76 


Galena do t262,152. 73 






Chicago do 333,405.40 






Total for the State, 1,220,838. 76 






* Returns only to May 31st. 






t Returns only to July 31st. 






Since those periods, the sales at 






these Offices have been 


immense , 







140 peck's guide 

The reader will perceive that the sales of the 
three first quarters of 1835, almost doubled 
those of the whole year of 1834. The inquiry 
was often made of the writer, while travelling 
in the Atlantic states in the summer of 1835, 
whether there was still opportunity for emi- 
grants to purchase public lands in Indiana, 
Illinois, &c. where land offices had been open- 
ed for sale of lands many years. He found 
almost everywhere, wrong notions prevailing. 
The people were not aware of the immense 
extent of the public domain now in market, 
and ready to be sold at one dollar and twenty- 
jive cents per acre, and even in as small tracts 
as forty acres. Take for example, the Ed- 
wards ville district, in which the writer re- 
sides. It extends south to the base line, east 
to the third principal meridian, north to the 
line that separates townships 13 and 14 north, 
and west to the Illinois and Mississippi rivers, 
and embraces all the counties of Madison, 
Clinton, Bond, Montgomery, Macouper, and 
Greene, a tier of townships on the south side 
of Morgan and Sangamon, five and a half town- 
ships from Fayette, and about half of St. Clair 
county. The lands for a part of this district 
have been in market for 18 or 20 years; — it 
contains some of the oldest American settle- 
ments in the state, and has also a number of 
confined claims never offered for sale. And 
yet the receiver of this office informed me in 
November last, that he had just made returns 
of all the lands sold in this district^ and they 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 141 

amounted to just one third of the whole quantity. 
Every man, therefore, may take it for granted 
that there will be land enough in market in all 
the new states, for his use, during the present 
generation. These are facts that should be 
known to all classes. The mania of land 
speculation and of monopolists would soon 
subside, were those concerned to sit down 
coolly, and after ascertaining the amount of 
public lands now in market, with the vast ad- 
ditional quantity that must soon come into 
market, use a few figures in common arithmetic, 
with the probable amount of emigration, and 
ascertain the probable extent of the demand 
for this article at any future period. 

The following information is necessary for 
those who are not acquainted with our land 
system. 

In each land office there are a Register and 
Receiver, appointed by the President and 
Senate for the term of four years, and paid by 
the government. 

After being surveyed, the land, by pro- 
clamation of the President, is offered for sale 
at public auction by half quarter sections, or 
tracts of 80 acres. If no one bids for it at one 
dollar and twenty-five cents per acre, or more, 
it is subject to private entry at any time after, 
upon payment of ^1 25 cents per acre at the 
itime of entry. J\h credit in any case is allowed. 

In many cases. Congress, by special statute, 
has granted to actual settlers, pre-emption 
rrights, where settlements and improvements. 
6* 



142 peck's guide 

have been made on public lands previous to 
public sale. 

Pre-emption rights confer the privilege only 
of purchasing the tract containing improve- 
ments at one dollar and twenty-five cents per 
acre, by the possessor, without the risk of a 
public sale. 

In Illinois and several other western states, 
all lands purchased of the general government, 
are exempted from taxation for five years after 
purchase. 

Military Bounty lands.— These lands were 
surveyed and appropriated as bounties to the 
soldiers in the war with Great Britain in 1812 
— '15, to encourage enlistments. The selec- 
tions were made in Illinois, Missouri, and 
Arkansas. The Bounty lands of Illinois lie 
between the Illinois and Mississippi rivers, in 
the counties of Calhoun, Pike, Adams, Schuy- 
ler, Macdonough, Warren, Mercer, Knox, 
Henry, Fulton, Peoria, and Putnam. Out of 
five millions of acres, 3,500,000 were selected, 
including about three-fifths of this tract. The 
remainder is disposed of in the manner of 
other public lands. The disposition of this 
fine country for military bounties has much 
retarded its settlement. It was a short-sighted 
and mistaken policy of government that dic- 
tated this measure. Most of the titles have 
long since departed from the soldiers for whose 
benefit the donations were made. Many thou- 
sand quarter sections have been sold for taxes 
by the state, have fallen into the hands of 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 148 

monopolists, and are now past redemption. 
The Bounty lands in Missouri, lie on the 
waters of Chariton and Grand rivers, north 
side of the Missouri river and in the counties 
of Chariton, Randolph, Carroll, and Ray, and 
include half a million of acres. The tract is 
generally fertile, undulating, a mixture of 
timber and prairie, but not as well watered as 
desirable. With the bounty lands of Arkansas 
I am not well acquainted. Their general 
character is good, and some tracts are rich 
cotton lands. 

Taxes. — Lands bought of the U. S. govern- 
ment are exempted from taxation for five years 
after sale. All other lands owned by non- 
residents, equally with those of residents, are 
subject to taxation annually, either for state, or 
county purposes, or both. The mode and 
amount varies in each state. If not paid when 
due, costs are added, the lands sold, subject 
to redemption within a limited period; — 
generally two years. Every non-resident land- 
holder should employ an agent within the state 
where his land lies, to look after it and pay his 
taxes, if he would not suffer the loss of his land. 



144 



CHAPTER VI. 



ABORIGINES. 

Conjecture respecting their former numbers and condition. 
Present number and state. — Indian Territory appropriated 
as their permanent residence. — Plan and operations of 
the U. S. Government. — Missionary efforts and stations. 
Monuments and Antiquities. 

The idea is entertained, that the Valley of 
the Mississippi, was once densely populated by 
aborigines; — that here were extensive nations, 
— that the bones of many millions lie moulder- 
ing under our feet. It has become a common 
theory, that previous to the settlement of the 
country by people of European descent, there 
were hvo successive races of men, quite dis- 
tinct from each other; — that the first race, by 
some singular fatality, became exterminated, 
leaving no traditionary account of their exist- 
ence. And the second race, the ancestors of 
the existing race of Indians, are supposed to 
have been once, far more numerous than the 
present white population of the Valley, 

Some parts of Mexico and South America, 



FOU EMIGRANTS. 145 

were found to be populous upon the first visits 
of the Spaniards; but I do not find satisfactory- 
evidence that population was ever dense, in any 
part of the territory that now constitutes our 
Republic. Mr. Atvvater supposes, from the 
mounds in Ohio, the Indian population far ex- 
ceeded 700,000, at one time in that district. 
Mr. Flint says, "If we can infer nothing else 
from the mounds, we can clearly infer, that 
this country once had its millions." Hence, a 
principal argument assigned for the populous- 
nessofthis country is, the millions buried in these 
tumuli, the bones of which, in a tolerable state 
of preservation, are supposed to be exhibited 
upon excavation. The writer has witnessed 
the opening of many of these mounds, and 
has seen the fragments of an occasional skele- 
ton, found near the surface. Without stopping 
here to enter upon a disquisition on the hy- 
pothesis assumed, that these mounds, as they 
are termed, are as much the results of natural 
causes, as any other prominences on the sur- 
face of the globe: I will only remark, that it is 
a fact well known to frontier men, that the 
Indians have been in the habit of burying their 
dead on these ridges and hillocks, and that in 
our light, spongy soil, the skeleton decays 
surprisingly fast. This is not the place to 
exhibit the necessary data, that have led to the 
conviction, that not a human skeleton now 
exists in all the western Valley, (excepting in 
nitrous caves,) that was deposited in the earth 



146 peck's guide 

before the discovery of the New World, by 
Columbus. 

The opinion that this Valley was once 
densely populous, is sustained from the sup- 
posed military works, distributed through the 
West. This subject, as well as that of 
mounds, wants re-examination. Probably, 
half a dozen enclosures, in a rude form, might 
have been used for military defence. The 
capabilities of the country to sustain a dense 
population, has been used to support the posi- 
tion, that it must have been once densely 
populated. This argues nothing without vesti- 
ges of agriculture and the arts. With the 
exception of a few small patches, around the 
Indian villages, for corn and pulse, the whole 
land was an unbroken wilderness. Strangers 
to the subject have imagined that our western 
prairies must once have been subdued by the 
hand of cultivation, because denuded of timber. 
Those who have long lived on them, have the 
evidences of observation, and their senses, to 
guide them. They know that the earth will 
not produce timber, while the surface is cov- 
ered with a firm grassy sward, and that timber 
will spring up, as soon as this obstruction is 
removed. 

To all these theories, of the former density 
of the aboriginal population of the Valley, I 
oppose, first, the fact that but a scattered and 
erratic population was found here, on the arri- 
val of the Europeans, — that the people were 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 147 

rude savages, subsisting chiefly by hunting, 
and that no savage people ever became popu- 
lous, — that from time immemorial, the different 
tribes had been continually at war with each 
other, — -that but a few years before the French 
explored it, the Iroquois, or Five nations, con- 
quered all the country to the Mississippi, which 
they could not have done had it been populous, 
and that Kentucky, one of the finest portions 
of the Valley, was not inhabited by any peo- 
ple, but the common hunting and fighting 
grounds of both the northern and southern 
Indians, and hence called by them, Kentuckee, 
or the ^' Bloody ground."* 

That the Indian character has deteriorated, 
and the numbers of each tribe greatly lessen- 
ed by contact with Europeans and their 
descendants, is not questioned; but many of 
the descriptions of the comforts and happiness 
of savage life and manners, before their coun- 
try was possessed by the latter, are the exag- 
gerated and glowing descriptions of poetic 
fancy. Evidence enough can be had to show 
that they were degraded and wretched, en- 
gaged in petty exterminating wars with each 

* See Pownal's Administration of the British Coloniesj — 
Colden's History of the Five Nations, — New York Histor- 
ical Collections, vol. II., — Charlevoix Histoire de la Nou- 
velle France, — Hon. De Witt Clinton's Discourse before 
the N. Y. Historical Society, 1811, — Discovery of the 
Mississippi river, by Father Lewis Hennepin, — M. Fonti's 
Account of M. De La Salle's Expedition, — La Harpe's 
Journal, &c. 



148 PECK S GUIDE. 

other, often times in a state of starvation, and 
leading a roving, indolent and miserable exist- 
ence. Their government was anarchy. — 
Properly speaking, civil government had never 
existed amongst them. They had no executive, 
or judiciary power, and their legislation was 
the result of their councils held by aged and 
experienced men. It had no stronger claim 
upon the obedience of the people than advice. 
In Mexico, civilization had made progress, 
and there were populous towns and cities, and 
edifices for religious and other purposes. 
With the exception of some very rude struc- 
tures, the ruins of which yet remain, and 
which upon too slight grounds, have been mis- 
taken for military works, nothing is left as 
marks of the enterprise of the feeble bands of 
Indians of this Valley. Their implements, 
utensils, weapons of war, and water-craft, 
were of the most rude and simple construction, 
and yet prepared with great labor. Those 
who have written upon Indian manners, with- 
out personal and long acquaintance with their 
circumstances, have made extravagant blun- 
ders. The historian of America, Dr. Rob- 
ertson, seems to suppose that the Indians cut 
down large trees, and dug out canoes with 
stone hatchets, — and that they cleared the 
timber from their small fields, by the same 
tedious process. Their stone axes or hatchets, 
were never used for cuttings but only for split- 
ting and pounding. They burned down and 
hollowed out trees by fire, for canoes, and 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 149 

never chopped off the timber, but only dead- 
ened it, in clearing land. The condition of 
depraved man, unimproved by habits of civil- 
ization, and unblest with the influences and 
consolations of the gospel, is pitiable in the 
extreme. Such was the character and condi- 
tion of the '^ Red skin," before his land wa& 
visited by the "Pale faces." I have often 
seen the aboriginal man in all his primeval 
wildness, when he first came in contact with 
the evils and benefits of civilization, — have 
admired his noble form and lofty bearing, — 
listened to his untutored and yet powerfijl elo- 
quence, and yet have found in him the same 
humbling and melancholy proofs of his wretch- 
edness and v/ant, as is found in the remnants 
on our borders. 

The introduction of ardent spirits, and of 
several diseases, are the evils furnished the 
Indian race, by contact with the whites, while 
in other respects their condition has been im- 
proved. 

From the second number of the ^' Arinual 
Register' of Indian Jlffairs^ within the Indian (or 
western^ Territory,'''' just published by the Rev. 
Isaac McCoy, the following particulars have 
been chiefly gleaned: 

Mr. McCoy has been devoted to the work of 
Indian reform for almost twenty years, first 
in Indiana, then in Michigan, and latterly in 
the Indian territory, west of Missouri and 
Arkansas. He is not only intimately acquainted , 
with the peculiar circumstances of this un- 
7 



150 peck's guide 

fortunate race, and with the country selected 
as their future residence by the government, 
but is ardently and laboriously engaged for 
their welfare. 

INDIAN TERRITORY. 

The Indian territory Ues west and imme- 
diately adjacent to Missouri and Arkansas. It 
is about 600 miles long from north to south, 
extending from the Missouri river to the Red 
river, and running westwardly as far as the 
country is habitable, which is estimated to be 
about 200 miles. The almost destitution of 
timber, with extensive deserts, renders most of 
the country from this territory to the Rocky 
mountains uninhabitable. The dreams in- 
dulged by many, that the wave of white popu- 
lation is to move onward without any resisting 
barrier, till it reaches these mountains, and 
even overleap them to the Pacific ocean, will 
never be realized. Providence has thrown a 
desert of several hundred miles in extent, as 
an opposing barrier. 

As very contradictory accounts have gone 
abroad, prejudicial to the character of the 
country selected for the Indians, it becomes 
necessary to describe it with some particulari- 
ty. The following, from Mr. McCoy (if it 
needed any additional support to its correct- 
ness,) is corroborated by the statements of 
many disinterested persons. 

^^ There is a striking similarity between all 
parts of this territory. In its general charac- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 151 

ter, it is high and undulating, rather level than 
hilly; though small portions partly deserve 
the latter appellation. The soil is generally 
very fertile. It is thought that in no part of 
the world ^ so extensive a region of rich soil 
has been discovered as in this, of which the 
Indian territory is a central position. It is 
watered by numerous rivers, creeks and rivu- 
lets. Its waters pass through it eastwardly, 
none of which are favorable to navigation. 
There is less marshy and stagnant water in it 
than is usual in the western country. The 
atmosphere is salubrious, and the climate pre- 
cisely such as is desirable, being about the 
same as that inhabited by the Indians on the 
east of the Mississippi. It contains much 
mineral coal and salt water, some lead, and 
some iron ore. Timber is too scarce, and this 
is a serious defect, but one which time will 
remedy, as has been demonstrated by the 
growth of timber in prairie countries which 
have been settled, where the grazing of stock, 
by diminishing the quantity of grass, renders 
the annual fires less destructive to the growth 
of wood. The prairie (i. e., land destitute of 
wood) is covered with grass, much of which 
is of suitable length for the scythe." 

The Chocktaws, Creeks, Cherokees, Osages, 
Kanzaus and Delawares, are entitled to lands 
westward of this territory for hunting grounds; 
some to the western boundary of the United 
States, others to the Rocky mountains. 



152 peck's guide 

Mr. McCoy estimates the number of inhabit- 
ants of this territory at 47,733. 

INDIGENOUS TRIBES. 

Osage, about 5,510 

Kanzau, " 1,684 

Ottoe and Missourias, 1,600 

O'Mahaus, 1,400 

Pawnees, four tribes, 10,000 

Puncahs, about 800 

Quapaws, '' 450 

21,444 

EMIGRANT TRIBES. 

Chocktaw, about 15,000 

Cherokee, '^ 4,000 

Creek, " 3,600 

Seneca, Shawanoe of Neosho, 462 

Wea, about 225. 

Piankeshau, 119 

Peoria and Kaskaskias, ... 135 

Ottawa, 81 

Shawanoe of Kanzau river, . 764' 

Delaware, 856 

Kickapoo, 603 

Putawatomie, 444 

Emigrants, 26,289 

Indigenous, . . . 21,444 

Total, . 47,733 

The estimate of the Chocktaws include 
about 400 negro slaves, — that of the Cherokees 
500, and that of the Creeks about 450 slaves. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 153 

ChocMaws. Their country adjoins Red riv- 
er and the Province of Texas on the south, 
Arkansas on the east, and extends north to the 
Arkansas and Canadian rivers, being 150 
miles from north to south, and 200 miles from 
east to west. Here are numerous salt springs. 
For civil purposes, their country is divided into 
three districts. 

Cherokees. The boundaries of their coun- 
try commences on the Arkansas river, opposite 
the western boundary of Arkansas Territory; — 
thence northwardly along the line of Missouri, 
8 miles to Seneca river; — thence west to the 
Neosho river; — thence up said river to the 
Osage lands; — thence west indefinitely, as far 
as habitable; — thence south to the Creek lands, 
and along the eastern line of the Creeks to a 
point 43 miles west of the Territory of Arkan- 
sas, and 25 miles nor.th of Arkansas river; — 
thence to the Verdigris river, and down Arkan- 
sas river, to the mouth of the Neosho; — thence 
southwardly to the junction of the North Fork 
and Canadian rivers; — and thence down the 
Canadian and Arkansas rivers to the place of 
beginning. The treaty of 1828, secures to 
this tribe 7,000,000 of acres, and adds land 
westward for hunting grounds as far as the 
U. S. boundaries extend. 

The Creeks, or Muscogees, occupy the coun- 
try west of Arkansas that lies between the 
lands of the Chocktaws and Cherokees. 

The Senecas join the State of Missouri on 



154 PECK S GUIDE 

the east, with the Cherokees south, the Neosho 
river west, and possess 127,500 acres. 

The Osage (a French corruption of Wos- 
sosh-ee, their proper name, which has again 
been corrupted by Darby and others into 
Ozark) have their country north of the west- 
ern portion of the Cherokee lands, commencing 
25 miles west of the State of Missouri, with a 
width of 50 miles, and extending indefinitely 
west. About half the tribe are in the Chero- 
kee country. 

The Quapaivs were originally connected 
with the Osages. They have migrated from 
the lower Arkansas, and have their lands ad- 
joining the State of Missouri, immediately north 
of the Senecas. 

The Putawatomies are on the north-eastern 
side of the Missouri river, but they are not 
satisfied, and the question of their locality is 
not fully settled . 444 Putawatomies are mingled 
with the Kickapoos, on the south-west side of 
the Missouri river. 

The Weas, Piankeshaws, Peorias and Kas- 
kaskias are remnants of the great western con- 
federacy, of which the Miamies were the most 
prominent branch. These and other tribes con- 
stituted the mini, Oillinois, or Illinois nation, 
that once possessed the country now included 
in the great States of Indiana, Illinois, &c. 
Their lands lie west of the State of Missouri, 
and south-west of the Missouri river. 

The Delawares occupy a portion of the coun- 
try in the forks of the Kanzau river, (or, as 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 155 

written by the French, Kansas.) They are the 
remnants of another great confederacy, the 
Le,nni-Lenopi, as denominated by themselves. 

The lands of the Kickapoos lie north of the 
Delawares, and along the Missouri, including 
768,000 acres. 

The Ottoes occupy a tract of country between 
the Missouri and Platte rivers, but their land 
is said to extend south and below the Platte. 

The country of the O'Mahaus has the Platte 
river on the south, and the Missouri north-east. 

The country of the Pawnees lies to the west- 
ward of the Ottoes and O'Mahaus. The boun- 
daries are not defined. 

The Puncahs are a small tribe that originated 
from the Pawnees, and live in the northern 
extremity of the country spoken of as the 
Indian territory. 

Present Condition. — The Chocktaws, Chero- 
kees and Creeks are more advanced in 
civilized habits then any other tribes. They 
have organized local governments of their 
own, have enacted some wholesome laws, live 
in comfortable houses, raise horses, cattle, 
sheep and swine, cultivate the gound, have 
good fences, dress like Americans, and manu- 
facture much of their own clothing. They 
have schools and religious privileges, by 
missionary efforts, to a limited extent. The 
Cherokees have a written language, perfect in 
its form, the invention of Mr. Guess, a full- 
blooded Indian. The Senecas, Delawares, 
and Shawanoes, also, are partially civilized, 



166 peck's guide 

and live with considerable comfort from the 
produce of their fields and stock. The 
Putawatomies, Weas, Piankeshaws, Peorias, 
Kaskaskias, Ottawas, and Kickapoos, have 
partially adopted civilized customs. Some 
live in comfortable log cabins, fence and 
cultivate the ground, and have a supply of 
stock; others live in bark huts, and are wretch- 
ed. The Osages or W'os-sosh-ees, Quapaws, 
Kanzaus, Ottoes, O'Mahaus, Pawnees and 
Punchas have made much less improvement in 
their mode of living. A few have adopted 
civilized habits, and are rising in the scale of 
social and individual comforts, but the larger 
portion are yet Indians. 

Mr. McCoy estimates the whole number of 
aborigines in North America, including those 
of Mexico, at 1,800,000, of which 10,000 are 
so far improved as to be classed v»^ith civilized 
men, and amongst whom, there are as many 
pious Christians, as amongst the same amount 
of population in the United States. In ad- 
dition to these, he estimates that there may be 
about 60,000 more, ''which may have made 
advances toward civilization, some more and 
some less." 

For some years past, the policy of the govern- 
ment of the United States has been directed to 
the project of removing all the Indians from 
the country organized into States and Territo- 
ries, and placing them sufficiently contiguous 
to be easily governed, and yet removed from di- 
rect contact and future'interruption from white 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 157 

population. This project was recommended 
in the period of Mr. Monroe's administration, 
was further considered and some progress made 
under that of Mr. Adams, but has been carried 
into more successful execution within the last 
five years. It is much to be regretted that 
this project was not commenced earlier. The 
residence of small bands of Indians, with their 
own feeble and imperfect government, carried 
on within any organized state or territory, is 
ruinous. Those who argue that because of the 
removal of the Indians from within the jurisdic- 
tion of the states, or an organized territory, 
therefore they will be driven back from the 
country in which it is now proposed to place 
them, evince but a very partial and imperfect 
view of the subject. The present operation of 
government is an experiment, and it is one 
that ought to receive a fair and full trial. If 
it does not succeed, I know not of any govern- 
mental regulation that can result, with success, 
to the prosperity of the Indians. The project 
is to secure to each tribe, by patent, the lands 
allotted them, — to form them into a territorial 
government, with some features of the rep- 
resentative principle, — to have their whole 
country under the supervision of our govern- 
ment, as their guardian, for their benefit, — to 
allow no white men to pass the lines and inter- 
mix with the Indians, except those who are 
licensed by due authority, — to aid them in 
adopting civilized habits, provide for them 
schools and other means of improving their 



158 peck's guide 

condition, and, through the agency of mis- 
sionary societies, to instruct them in the prin- 
ciples of the gospel of Christ. 

Missionary Efforts and Stations. — These are 
conducted by the American Board of Com- 
missioners for Foreign Missions, — the Baptist 
Board of F. Missions, — the Methodist Epis. 
Missionary Society, — the Western Foreign 
Missionary Society, — and the Cumberland 
Presbyterians. Stations have been formed, 
and schools established, with most of these 
tribes. About 2,500 are members of Christian 
churches of different denominations. The 
particulars of these operations are to be found 
in the Reports of the respective societies, and 
the various religious periodicals. 

Of other tribes within the Valley of the 
Mississippi, and not yet within the Indian 
territory, the following estimate is sufficiently 
near the truth for practical purposes. 

Indians from New York , about Green Bay 725 

Wyandots in Ohio and Michigan 623 

Miamies 1 ,200 

Winnebagoes 4,59 1 

Chippeways, or O'Jibbeways 6,793 

Ottawas and Chippeways of lake Michigan 5,300 
Chippeways, Ottawas and Putawatomies 8,000 

Putawatomies 1 ,400 

Menominees 4,200 

They are all east of the Mississippi, and 
chiefly found on the reservations in Ohio, 
Indiana, and Michigan, and in the country 
between the Wisconsin river and lake Superior. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 159 

Those tribes west of the Mississippi river, and 
along the region of the upper Missouri river, 
are as follows: 

Sioux 27,500 

loways 1,200 

Sauks of Missouri 500 

Sauks and Foxes 6,400 

Assinaboines 8,000 

Crees 3,000 

Gros Ventres 3,000 

Aurekaras 3,000 

Cheyennes 2,000 

Mandans 1 ,500 

Black Feet 30,000 

Camanches 7,000 

Minatarees 1 ,500 

Crows 4,500 

Arrepahas and Kiawas 1 ,400 

Caddoes 800 

Snake and other tribes within the Rocky 

mountains 20,000 

West of the Rocky mountains 80,000 

The Camanches, Arrepahas, Kiawas and 
Caddoes roam over the great plains towards 
the sources of the Arkansas and Red rivers, 
and through the northern parts of Texas. The 
Black Feet are towards the heads of the Mis- 
souri. 

Monuments and Antiquities. — Before dismiss- 
ing the subject of the aborigines, I shall touch 
very briefly on the monuments and antiquities 
of the west, — with strong convictions that there 
has been much exaggeration on this subject. 



160 peck's guide 

I have already intimated that the mounds of 
the west are natural formations, but I have 
not room for the circumstances and facts that 
go to sustain this theory. The number of ob- 
jects considered as antiquities is greatly ex- 
aggerated. The imaginations of men have 
done much. The number of mounds on the 
American bottom in Illinois, adjacent to Cahokia 
creek, is stated by Mr. Flint at 200. The 
writer has counted all the elevations of surface 
for the extent of nine miles, and they amount to 
72. One of these. Monk hill, is much too 
large, and three fourths of the rest are quite 
too small for human labor. The pigmy graves 
on the Merrimeek, Mo., in Tennessee, and 
other places, upon closer inspection, have been 
found to contain decayed skeletons of the 
ordinary size, but buried with the leg and thigh 
bones in contact. The giant skeletons some- 
times found, are the bones of buffaloe. 

It is much easier for waggish laborers to 
deposit old horse shoes and other iron articles 
where they are at work, for the special pleasure 
of digging them up for credulous antiquarians, 
than to find proofs of the existence of the 
horses that wore them ! 

There may, or may not, be monuments and 
antiquities that belong to a race of men of 
prior existence to the present race of Indians. 
All that the writer urges is, that this subject 
may not be considered as settled; that due 
allowance may be made for the extreme cre- 
dulity of some, and the want of personal ob- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 161 

servation and examination of other writers on 
this subject. Gross errors have been com- 
mitted, and exaggerations of very trivial cir- 
cumstances have been made. 

The antiquities belonging to the Indian race 
are neither numerous or interesting, unless we 
except the remains of rude edifices and en- 
closures, the walls of which are almost in- 
variably embankments of earth. They are 
rude axes and knives of stone, bottles and 
vessels of potter's ware, arrow and spear heads, 
rude ornaments, &c. 

Roman, French, Italian, German and En- 
glish coins and medals, with inscriptions, have 
been found, — most unquestionably brought by 
Europeans, — probably by the Jesuits and other 
orders, who were amongst the first explorers of 
the west, and who had their religious houses 
here more than a century past. 

Copper and silver ornaments have been 
discovered in the mounds that have been open- 
ed. The calumet, or large stone pipe, is often 
found in Indian graves. Two facts deserve to 
be regarded by those who examine mounds 
and Indian cemeteries. First, that the Indians 
have been accustomed to bury their dead in 
these mounds. Secondly, that they were ac- 
customed to place various ornaments, utensils, 
weapons, and other articles of value, the pro- 
perty of the deceased, in these graves, es- 
pecially if a chieftain, or man of note. A 
third fact known to our frontier people , is the 
custom of several Indian tribes wrapping their 



dead in strips of bark, or encasing them with 
the halves of a hollow log, and placing them in 
the forks of trees This was the case specially, 
when their deaths occurred while on hunting or 
war parties. At stated seasons these relics 
were collected^ with much solemnity, brought 
to the common sepulchre of the tribe, and 
deposited with their ancestors. This accounts 
for the confused manner in which the bones 
are often found in mounds and Indian grave- 
yards. Human skeletons, or rather mummies, 
have been discovered in the nitrous caves of 
Kentucky. The huge bones of the mammoth 
and other enormous animals, have been ex- 
humed, at the Bigbone licks in Kentucky and in 
other places. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 163 



CHAPTER VII 



WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA. 



The portion of Pennsylvania lying west of 
the Alleghany ridge, contains the counties of 
Washington, Greene, Fayette, Westmoreland, 
Alleghany, Beaver, Butler, Armstrong, Mer- 
cer, Venango, Crawford, Erie, Warren, Mc- 
Kean, Jefferson, Indiana, Somerset, and apart 
of Cambria. 

Face of the Country. — Somerset, and parts of 
Fayette, Westmoreland, Cambria, Indiana, 
Jefferson, -and McKean are mountainous, with 
intervening vallies of rich, arable land. The 
hilly portions of Washington, and portions of 
Fayette, Westmoreland, and Alleghany coun- 
ties are fertile, with narrow vales of rich land 
intervening. The hills are of various shapes 
and heights, and the ridges are not uniform, 
but pursue various and different directions. 
North of Pittsburg, the country is hilly and 
broken, but not mountainous, and the bottom 
lands on the water courses are wider and more 
fertile. On French creek, and other branches 
of the Alleghany river there are extensive 



164 peck's guide 

tracts of rich bottom, or intervale lands, cover* 
ed with beech, birch, sugar maple, pine, hem- 
lock, and other trees common to that por- 
tion of the United States. The pine forests in 
Pennsylvania and New York, about the heads 
of the Alleghany river, produce vast quantities 
of lumber, which are sent annually to all the 
towns along the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. 
It is computed that not less than thirty million 
feet of lumber are annually sent down the Ohio 
from this source. 

Soil J Agi'iculture , Sfc. — Portions of the coun- 
try are excellent for farming. The glade lands, 
as they are called, in Greene and other coun- 
ties, produce oats, grass, &c., but are not so 
good for wheat and corn. Those counties 
which lie towards lake Erie are better adapted 
to grazing. Great numbers of cattle are raised 
here. Washington and other counties south 
of Pittsburg produce great quantities of wool. 
The Monongahela has been famous for its 
whiskey, but it is gratifying to learn that it is 
greatly on the decline, and that its manufac- 
ture begins to be regarded as it should be, — 
ruinous to society. A large proportion of the 
distilleries are reported to have been aban- 
doned. Bituminous coal abounds in all the 
hills around Pittsburg, and over most parts of 
Western Pennsylvania. Iron ore is found 
abundantly in the counties along the Allegha- 
ny, and many furnaces and forges are employ- 
ed in its manufactory. Salt springs abound on 
the Alleghany, and especially on the Cone- 



I 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 165 

maugh and Kiskimiiiitas, where salt, in large 
quantities, is manufactured. 

Tile natural advantages of Western Penn- 
sylvania are great. Almost every knoll, hill 
and mountain can be turned to some good ac- 
count, and its rivers, canals, rail and turnpike 
roads afford facilities for intercommunication, 
and for transportation of the productions to a 
foreign market. The advantages of this region 
for trade, agriculture, raising stock, and manu- 
facturing, are great. The streams furnish 
abundant mill-seats, the air is salubrious, and the 
morals of the community good. Till recently, 
Pennsylvania has been neglectful to provide 
for common schools. A school system is now 
in successful operation, and has a strong hold 
on the confidence and affections of the people 
in this part of the State. 

Interned Improvements. Pennsylvania has 

undertaken an immense system of internal im- 
provements, throughout the State. The Alle- 
ghany portage rail-road commences at Holli- 
daysburgh, on the Juniata river, at the termi- 
nation of the eastern division of the great 
Pennsylvania canal, and crosses the Alleghany 
ridge at Blair's Gap, summit 37 miles, to Johns- 
town on the Conemaugh. Here it connects 
with the western division of the same canal. 
It ascends and descends the mountain by five 
inclined planes on each side, overcoming in 
ascent and descent 2570 feet, 1398 of which 
are on the eastern, and 1172 on the western 
side of the mountain. 563 feet are overcome 
7* 



166 feck's guide 

by grading, and 2007 feet by the planes. On 
this hne, also, are four extensive viaducts, and 
a tunnel 870 feet long, and 20 feet wide, through 
the staple bend of the Conemaugh river. The 
western division of the Pennsylvania canal 
commences at Johnstown, on the Conemaugh, 
pursues the course of that stream, and ajso that 
of the Kiskiminitas and Alleghany rivers, and 
finally terminates at Pittsburg. In its course 
from Johnstown it passes through the towns of 
Fairfield, Lockport, Blairsville, Saltzburg, 
Warren, Leechburg, and Freeport, most of 
which are small villages, but increasing in size 
and business. "■ The canal is 104 miles in 
length: lockage 471 feet, 64 locks, (exclusive 
of four on a branch canal to the Alleghany,) 
10 dams, 1 tunnel, 16 aqueducts, 64 culverts, 
39 waste-wiers, and 152 bridges. 

'' The canal commissioners, in their reports 
to the legislature, strongly recommend the ex- 
tension of this division to the town of Beaver, 
so as to unite with the Beaver division. By a 
recent survey, the distance was ascertained to 
be 25.065 miles, and the estimated cost of 
construction, ^263,821. This, with a proposed 
canal from Newcastle to Akron, on the Ohio 
and Erie canal, will form a continuous inland 
communication between Philadelphia and New 
Orleans, of 2435 miles, with the exception 
of the passage over the Alleghany portage 
rail-road, of 36.69 miles in length.* It is 

* See " Mitchell's Compendium of the Internal Improve- 
ments in the United States," where much valuable informa- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 167 

395 miles from Philadelphia to Pittsburg by this 
canal. 

The Beaver division of the Pennsylvania 
canal commences at the town of Beaver, on the 
Ohio river, at the junction of the Big Beaver 
river, 25-i miles below Pittsburg, ascends 
the valley of that river, thence up the Chenan- 
go creek to its termination in Mercer county, 
a distance of 42.68 miles. This work, together 
with a feeder on French creek, and other 
works now in progress, are parts of a canal in- 
tended eventually to connect the Ohio river 
with lake Erie, at the town of Erie; which, 
when finished, will probably be about 130 miles 
in length. It is also proposed to construct a 
canal from Newcastle, on the Beaver division, 
24.75 miles above the town of Beaver, along 
the valley of the Mahoning river, to Akron, 
near the portage summit of the Ohio and Erie 
canal, 85 miles in length, 8 miles of which are 
in Pennsylvania, and the residue in Ohio. Es- 
timated cost, $J;764,372. 

The Cumberland, or National road, crosses 
the south-western part of Pennsylvania. It 
passes through Brownsville where it crosses 
the Monongahela river, and Washington, into 
a corner of Virginia to Wheeling, where it 
crosses the Ohio river, and from thence through 
Ohio, Indiana and Illinois to the Mississippi 
river, or perhaps to the western boundary of 
Missouri. 

tion of the rail-roads and canals of the United States is found 
in a small space. 



168 peck's guide 

Chief Toivns. — Brownsville^ situated on the 
east side of the Monongahela river^ is in a ro- 
mantic country, surrounded with rich farms and 
line orchards, and contains about 1200 inhabit- 
ants. It is at the head of steamboat naviga- 
tion. Washington is the county seat of Wash- 
ington county, surrounded with a fertile but 
hilly country, contains about 2000 inhabitants, 
and has a respectable college. Cannonshurgh 
is situated on the west side of Chartier's creek, 
8 miles north of Washington. It also has a 
flourishing college, with buildings in an ele- 
vated and pleasant situation. JJnionioivn is the 
county seat of Fayette, on the National road, 
and contains about 1500 inhabitants. Greens- 
burg is the seat of justice for Westmoreland 
county, on the great turnpike road from Phila- 
delphia by Harrisburg to Pittsburg, and has 
about 850 inhabitants. Beaver is situated at 
the mouth of Big Beaver, on the Ohio, with a 
population of 1000 or 1200, and is a place of 
considerable business. Meadville is the seat 
of justice for Crawford county, situated near 
French creek, and has about 1200 inhab- 
itants. Here is a college established by the 
Rev. Mr. Alden, some years since, to which 
the late Dr. Bentley of Salem, Mass., bequeath- 
ed a valuable library. It is now under the 
I)atronage of the Methodist Episcopal church. 

Erie is a thriving town, situated on the south 
side of lake Erie, one hundred and twenty 
miles north of Pittsburg. Steamboats that pass 
up the lake from Buffalo, usually stop here, 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 169 

from whence stage routes communicate with 
Pittsburg, and many other towns in the interior. 
The portage from this place to the navigable 
waters of the Alleghany river is fifteen miles 
over a turnpike road. The population of Erie 
is from 1500 to 2000, and increasing. 

Waterford, the place where the Erie portage 
terminates, is situated on the north bank of the 
French creek; it is a place of considerable 
business. French creek is a navigable branch 
of the Alleghany river. Franklin, Kittanning, 
and Freeporty are respectable towns on the Al- 
leghany river, between Pittsburg and Mead- 
ville. 

Eco7iomy is the seat of the German colony, 
under the late Mr. Rapp, which emigrated 
from their former residence of Harmony on 
the Wabash river in Indiana. It is a flourish- 
ing town on the right bank of the Ohio, 18 
miles below Pittsburg. It has several facto- 
ries, a large church, a spacious hotel, and 800 
or 900 inhabitants, living in a community form, 
under some singular regulations. The Econo- 
mists, or Harmonists, as they were called, in 
Indiana, are an industrious, moral and enter- 
prising community, with some peculiarities in 
their religious notions. There are many other 
towns and villages in Western Pennsylvania, 
of moral, industrious inhabitants, which the 
limits of this work will not permit me to no- 
tice. 

Pittsburg is the emporium of Western 
Pennsylvania, and from its manufacturing en- 



170 peck's guide 

terprise, especially in iron wares, has been 
denominated the ^ ^Birmingham of the West." 
It stands on the land formed at the junction of 
the Monongahela and Alleghany rivers , on a lev el 
alluvion deposit, but entirely above the highest 
waters, surrounded with hills. This place was 
selected as the site of a fort and trading depot 
by the French, about eighty years since, and 
a small stockade erected, and called Fort du 
Quesne, to defend the country against the oc- 
cupancy of it by the English, and to monopo- 
lize the Indian trade. It came into the pos- 
session of the British upon the conquest of this 
country after the disastrous defeat of Gen. 
Braddock; and under the administration of the 
elder Pitt, a fort was built here under the 
superintendence of lord Stanwix, that cost 
more than ^260,000, and called Fort Pitt. In 
1760, a considerable town arose around the 
fort, surrounded with beautiful gardens and 
orchards, but it decayed on the breaking out 
of the Indian war, in 1763. The origin of the 
present town may be dated 1765. Its plan was 
enlarged and re-surveyed in 1784, and then 
belonged to the Penn family as a part of their 
hereditary manor. By them it was sold. 

The Indian wars in the West retarded its 
growth for several years after, but since, it has 
steadily increased, according to the following 



for emigrants. 171 

Table. 

1800, 1,565 

1810, 4,768 

1820, 7,248 

1830, 12,542 

1835, estimated^ 30,000 

The estimate of 1835, includes the suburbs. 
The town is compactly built, and some streets 
are handsome; but the use of coal for culinary 
and manufacturing purposes, gives the town a 
most dingy and gloomy aspect. Its salubrity 
and admirable situation for commerce and 
manufactures ensure its future prosperity and 
increase of population. The exhaustless beds 
of coal in the bluffs of the Monongahela, and 
of iron ore, which is found in great abundance 
in all the mountainous regions of Western 
Pennsylvania, give it preeminence over other 
western cities for manufacturing purposes. It 
really stands at the head of steamboat naviga- 
tion on the waters of the Ohio ; for the Allegha- 
ny and Monongahela rivers are navigable only 
at high stages of water, and by the recent im- 
provements in the channel of the Ohio, and 
the use of light draft boats, the navigation to 
Pittsburg is uninterrupted except in winter. 

The suburbs of Pittsburg are Birmingham, 
on the south bank of the Monongahela, Alle- 
ghany town, on the opposite side of the Alle- 
ghany river, and containing a population of 
about seven thousand, Lawrenceville, Northern 
and Eastern Liberties. 



172 peck's guide 



Manufactures. 



Nail Factories and Rolling Mills. Weight in lbs. Value. 

Union, 720,000 $43,200 

Sligo, 400,000 32,000 

Pittsburg, 782,887 86^544 

Grant's Hill, 500,000 20,000 

Juniata, 500,000 30,000 

Pine Creek, 457,000 34,100 

Miscellaneous factories, 360,000 28,200 

The foregoing table was constructed in 1831. 
Doubtless this branch of business has greatly 
increased. 

The same year there were 12 foundries in 
and near Pittsburg, which converted 2963 tons 
of metal into castings, employed 132 hands, 
consumed 87,000 bushels of charcoal, and pro- 
duced the value of $189,614. 

The following sketch of manufactures in 
Pittsburg and vicinity, is copied from Tanner's 
Guide, pubhshed in 1832 : 

Steam engines 37, which employed 123 hands. 
Value, $180,400. 

Cotton factories 8, with 369 power-looms, 
598 hands; value, $300,134. In the counties 
of Westmoreland and Alleghany, there are 
5 cotton factories. 

In Pittsburg and the two counties just named, 
are 8 paper mills, valued at $165,000. 

In Pittsburg and vicinity are 5 steam mills, 
which employ 50 hands. Value of their pro- 
ducts annually, $80,000. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 173 

There are 5 brass foundries and 8 copper- 
smiths' shops. Value of the manufactures, 
$25,000. 

Within the limits of the city, there are 30 
blacksmiths' shops, which employ 136 hands. 
There are also 4 gunsmiths, and 9 silversmiths 
and watch repairers. 

In Pittsburg and the counties of Westmore- 
land and Alleghany, there are 26 saddleries, 
and 41 tanneries, 64 brick yards, and 11 pot- 
teries. There are in the city 4 breweries, 
and 4 white lead manufactories, at which 7,400 
kegs are made annually; value, g27,900. 

There are 6 printing-offices in Pittsburg, 
and 6 more in the two counties. 

The estimated value of the manufactures of 
every kind in Pittsburg, and the counties of 
Alleghany and W^estmoreland, in 1831, was 
g3, 978, 469. 

Doubtless they have greatly increased since. 

Coal. The bituminous coal formations 

around Pittsburg are well deserving the atten- 
tion of geologists. Coal Hill, on the west side 
of the Monongahela, and immediately opposite 
Pittsburg, is the great source of this species of 
fuel, and the miners, in some places, have per- 
forated the hill to the distance of several hun- 
dred feet. It is found in strata from 6 inches 
to 10 or 12 feet in thickness, and often at the 
height of 300 feet above the bed of the river, in 
the hills around Pittsburg, and along the course 
of the Alleghany and Monongahela. Below 
8 



174 peck's guide 

this one stratum, which is of equal elevation y 
none is found till you reach the base of the 
hill below the bed of the river. Besides sup- 
plying Pittsburg, large quantities are sent down 
the river. 

There are in Pittsburg, (or ive^^e two years 
since) three Baptist churches, or congregations, 
one of which is of Welch, four Presbyterian, 
four Methodist, one Episcopal, one Roman 
Catholic, (besides a cathedral on Grant's Hill,) 
one Covenanter, one Seceder, one German 
Reformed, one Unitarian, one Associate Re- 
formed, one Lutheran, one African, and per- 
haps some others in the city or suburbs. 

Of the public buildings deserving notice, I 
will name the Western tlniversity of Pennsylva- 
nia, which stands on the Monongahela, near 
Grant's Hill; — the Penite^itiary , in Alleghany 
town, which has cost the State an immense 
amount, and is conducted on the principle of 
solitary confinement; — the Presbyterian Theo- 
logical Seminary is also in Alleghany town; — 
the Museum; — the United States Jlrsenal, about 
two miles above the city, at Lawrenceville. It 
encloses four acres, and has a large depot for 
ordnance, arms, &c. The City Water Works 
is a splendid monument of municipal enterprise. 
The water is taken from the Alleghany river, 
by a pipe, 15 inches in diameter, and carried 
2,439 feet, and 116 feet elevation, to a reservoir 
on Grant's Hill, capable of receiving 1,000,000 
gallons. The water is raised by a steam-en- 
gine of 84 horse power, and will raise 1,500,000 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 175 

gallons in 24 hours. The aqueduct of the 
Pennsylvania canal, across the Alleghany river, 
is also deserving attention. 

The inhabitants of Pittsburg are a mixture 
of English, French, Scotch, Irish, German 
and Swiss artizans and mechanics, as well as 
of native born Americans, who live together in 
much harmony. Industry, sobriety, morality 
and good order generally prevail. Extensive 
revivals of religion prevailed here about a year 
since. 

The population of Western Pennsylvania 
is characterized for industry, frugahty, econ- 
omy and enterprise. Temperance principles 
have made considerable progress of late years. 

Western Virginia 
— Embraces all that part of Virginia that Hes 
upon the western waters. The counties are 
Brooke, Ohio, Monongalia, Harrison, Ran- 
dolph, Russell, Preston, Tyler, Wood, Green- 
brier, Kenawha,* Mason, Lewis, Nicholas, 
Logan, Cabell, Monroe, Pocahontas, Giles, 
Montgomery, Wythe, Grayson, Tazewell, 
Washington, Scott and Lee: — 26. 

Its principal river is the Kenawha and its 
tributaries. Of these, Gaula, New river and 
Greenbrier are the principal. New river is 
the largest, and rises in North Carolina. The 
Monongahela drains a large district; — the little 
Kenawha, Guyandotte, and Sandy are smaller 

* I have adopted the orthography of the legislature. 



176 

streams. The latter separates Virginia from 
Kentucky for some distance. 

Much of Western Virginia is mountainous, 
lying in parallel ridges, which are often broken 
by streams. Some of the vallies are very fer- 
tile. The Kenawha Valley is narrow, but ex- 
tends to a great distance. The salt manufac- 
tories extend from Charlestown up the Kenaw- 
ha, the distance of 12 miles. They are 20 in 
number, and manufacture nearly two millions 
of bushels annually. The river is navigable 
for steamboats to this point at an ordinary depth 
of water. Coal is used in the manufactories, 
which is dug from the adjacent mountains, and 
brought to the works on wooden railways. 
Seven miles above Charlestown is the famous 
burning spring. Inflammable gas escapes, 
which, if ignited, will burn with great brillian- 
cy for many hours, and even for several days, 
in a favorable state of the atmosphere. The 
State of Virginia has constructed a tolerably 
good turnpike road from the mouth of the 
Guyandotte, on the Ohio, to Staunton. It 
passes through Charlestown, and along the 
Kenawha river to the falls; — from thence it 
extends along the course of New river, and 
across Se wall's mountain by Louisburg to 
Staunton. The falls of Kenawha are in a 
romantic region, and merit the attention of the 
traveller. Marshall's pillar is a singular pro- 
jecting rock that overhangs New river, 1015 
feet above its bed. The stage road passes 
near its summit. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 177 

This route is one of the great stage routes 
leading from the Ohio Valley to Washington 
city, and to all parts of old Virginia. 

The White Sulphur, Red Sulphur, Hot, 
Warra, and Sweet Springs, are in the moun- 
tainous parts of Virginia, and on this route. 
These are all celebrated as watering places, 
but the White Sulphur spring is the great re- 
sort of the fashionable of the Southern States. 
Let the reader imagine an extensive camp- 
ground, a mile in circumference, the camps 
neat cottages, built of brick, or framed, and 
neatly painted. In the centre of this area are 
the springs, bath-houses, dining hall, and man- 
sion of the proprietor. The cottages are in- 
tended for the accommodation of families, and 
contain two rooms each. This is by far the 
most extensive watering place in the Union. 
Of the effect of such estabhshments on morals 
I shall say nothing. The reader will draw his 
own conclusions, when he understands that the 
card-table, roulette, wheel of fortune, and dice- 
box are amongst its principal amusements. 
Here, not unfrequently, cotton bales, negroes, 
and even plantations, change owners in a night. 
The scenery around is highly picturesque and 
romantic. Declivities and mountains, sprin- 
kled over with evergreens, are scattered in wild 
confusion. A few miles from White Sulphur 
springs, you pass the dividing line — the Alle- 
ghany ridge, and pass from Western into Mid- 
dle Virginia. 

Chief Towns. — Wheeling is the principal 



178 peck's guide 

commercial town, and a great thoroughfare, 
in Western Virginia. It has a large number 
of stores, and commission warehouses; and 
contains six or eight thousand inhabitants. It 
is 92 miles by water, and 55 miles by land, 
from Pittsburg. It has manufactures of cotton, 
glass, and earthenware. Boats are built here. 
The Cumberland or National road crosses the 
Ohio at this place, over which abridge is about 
to be erected. The town is surrounded with 
bold, precipitous hills, which contain inexhaust- 
ible quantities of coal. At extreme low water, 
steamboats ascend no higher than Wheeling. 

Charlestown, Wellsburgh, Parkersburgh, 
Point Pleasant, Clarksburgh, Abington, Louis- 
burg, and many others, are pleasant and thriv- 
ing towns. 

The climate of Western Virginia is pre- 
eminently salubrious. The people, in their 
manners, have considerable resemblance to 
those of Western Pennsylvania. There are 
fewer slaves, less wealth, more industry and 
equality, than in the " Old Dominion," as 
Eastern Virginia is sometimes called. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 179 



CHAPTER VIII. 



MICHIGAN. 

Extent, — Situation, — Boundaries; Face of the Country; 

Rivers,Lakes, &c., Soil and Productions; — Subdivisions, 
Counties ; — Towns, Detroit ; — Education ; — Improve- 
ments projected; — Boundary Dispute; — Outline of the 
Constitution, 

Michigan is a large triangular peninsula, 
surrounded on the east, north and west, by 
lakes, and on the south by the States of Ohio 
and Indiana. Lake Erie, Detroit river, lake 
St. Clair, and St. Clair river, lie on the east 
for 140 miles; lake Huron on the north-east 
and north, the straits of Mackinaw on the ex- 
treme north-west, and lake Michigan on its 
western side. Its area is about 40,000 square 
miles. 

Face of the Country. — Its general surface is 
level, having no mountains, and no very ele- 
vated hills. Still, much of its surface is undu- 
lating, like the swelling of the ocean. Along 
the shore of lake Huron, in some places, are 
high, precipitous bluffs, and along the eastern 



180 



shore of Michigan are hills of pure sand, blown 
up by the winds from the lake. Much of the 
country bordering on lakes Erie, Huron, and 
St. Clair, is level, — somewhat deficient in good 
water, and for the most part heavily timbered. 
The interior is more undulating, in some places 
rather hilly, with much fine timber, interspers- 
ed with oak ''openings," "plains," and "prai- 
ries." 

The "p/ams" are usually timbered, desti- 
tute of undergrowth, and are beautiful. The 
soil is rather gravelly. The '■'■openings'''' con- 
tain scattering timber in groves and patches, 
and resemble those tracts called barrens farther 
south. There is generally timber enough for 
farming purposes, if used with economy, while 
it costs but little labor to clear the land. For 
the first ploughing, a strong team of four or 
five yoke of oxen is required, as is the case 
with prairie. 

The openings produce good wheat. 

The '^ pi'airies/'' will be described more par- 
ticularly under the head of Illinois. In Michi- 
gan they are divided into wet and dry. The 
former possess a rich soil, from one to four 
feet deep, and produce abundantly all kinds of 
crops common to 42 degrees of N. latitude, 
especially those on St. Joseph river. The lat- 
ter afford early pasturage for emigrants, hay 
to winter his stock, and with a little labor would 
be converted into excellent artificial meadows. 
Much of the land that now appears wet and 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 181 

marshy will in time be drained, and be the 
first rate soil for farming. 

A few miles back of Detroit is a flat, wet 
country for considerable extent, much of it 
heavily timbered, — the streams muddy and 
sluggish, — some wet prairies, — ^with dry, sandy 
ridges intervening. The timber consists of all 
the varieties found in the Western States ; such 
as oaks of various species, walnut, hickory, 
maple, poplar, ash, beech, &c., with an inter- 
mixture of white and yellow pine. 

Rivers and Lakes. — In general, the country 
abounds with rivers and small streams. They 
rise in the interior, and flow in every direction 
to the lakes which surround it. The northern 
tributaries of the Maumee rise in Michigan, 
though the main stream is in Ohio, and it enters 
the west end of lake Erie on the "debatable 
land." Proceeding up the lake, Raisin and 
then Huron occur. Both are navigable streams, 
and their head waters interlock with Grand 
river, or Washtenong, which flows into lake 
Michigan. River Rouge enters Detroit river, 
a few miles below the city of Detroit. Raisin 
rises in the county of Lenawee, and passes 
through Monroe. Huron originates amongst 
the lakes of Livingston, passes through Wash- 
tenaw, and a corner of Wayne, and enters 
lake Erie towards its north-western corner. 
Above Detroit is river Clinton, which heads 
in Oakland county, passes through Macomb, 
and enters lake St. Clair. Passing by several 
smaller streams, as Belle, Pine, and Black 



1S2 peck's guide 

rivers, which fall into St. Clair river, and go- 
ing over an immense tract of swampy, wet 
country, between lake Huron and Saginaw bay, 
in Sanilac county, we come to the Saginaw 
river. This stream is formed by the junction 
of the Tittibawassee, Hare, Shiawassee, Flint, 
and Cass rivers, all of which unite in the cen- 
tre of Saginaw county, and form the Sag- 
inaw river, which runs north, and enters the 
bay of the same name. The Tittibawassee 
rises in the country west of Saginaw bay, 
runs first a south, and then a south-eastern 
course, through Midland county into Saginaw 
county, to its junction. Pine river is a branch 
of this stream, that heads in the western part 
of Gratiot county, and runs north-east into Mid- 
land. Hare, the original name of which is 
Waposebee, commences in Gratiot, and the 
N. W. corner of Shiawassee counties, and runs 
an east and north-east course. The heads of 
the Shiawassee, which is the main fork of the 
Saginaw, are found in the counties of Living- 
ston and Oakland. Its course is northward. 
Flint river rises in the south part of Lapeer 
county, and runs a north-western course, some 
distance past the centre of the county, when it 
suddenly wheels to the south, then to the west, 
and enters Genesee county, through which it 
pursues a devious course towards its destina- 
tion. Cass river rises in Sanilac county, and 
runs a western course. These rivers are 
formed of innumerable branches, and water an 
extensive district of country. Other smaller 
streams enter lake Huron, above Saginaw bay; 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 183 

but the whole country across to lake Michigan 
is yet a wilderness, and possessed by the In- 
dians, Doubtless it will soon be purchased, 
surveyed and settled. On the western side of 
the State are Traverse, Ottawa, Betsey, Manis- 
tic, Pent, White, Maskegon, Grand, Kekala- 
mazoo, and St. Joseph, all of which fall into 
lake Michigan. Those above Grand river are 
beyond the settled portion of the State. Grand 
river is the largest in Michigan, being 270 
miles in length, its windings included. Its head 
waters interlock with the Pine, Hare, Shiawas- 
see, Huron, Raisin, St. Joseph and Kekalama- 
zoo. A canal project is already in agitation to 
connect it with the Huron, and open a water 
communication from lake Erie, across the 
peninsula, direct to lake Michigan. Grand 
river is now navigable for batteaux, 240 miles, 
and receives in its course. Portage, Red-Cedar, 
Looking-glass, Maple, Muscota, Flat, Thorn- 
Apple, and Rouge rivers, besides smaller 
streams. It enters lake Michigan 245 miles 
south-westerly from Mackinaw, and 75 north of 
St. Joseph; — is between 50 and 60 rods wide 
at its mouth, with 8 feet water over its bar. 
The Ottawa Indians own the country on its 
north side, for 60 miles up. Much of the land 
on Grand river and its tributaries, is excellent, 
consisting of six or seven thousand square 
miles; — and, considering its central position in 
the State, — the general fertility of its soil, — 
the good harbor at its mouth, — the numerous 
mill sites on its tributaries, — this region maybe 
regarded as one of the most interesting portions 



184 peck's guide 

of Michigan. The Kekalamazoo rises in Jack- 
son and Eaton counties, passes through Cal- 
houn, and the northern part of Kalamazoo, 
enters the south-eastern part of Allegan, and 
passes diagonally through it to the. lake. There 
is much first-rate land, timber, prairie, and 
openings, on its waters, and is rapidly set- 
tling. 

The St. Joseph country is represented by 
some as the best country in Michigan. This 
stream has several heads in Branch, Hillsdale, 
Jackson, Calhoun, and Kalamazoo counties, 
which unite in St. Joseph county, through 
which it passes diagonally to the south-west, 
into Indiana, — thence through a corner of Elk- 
hart county, into St. Joseph of that State, makes 
the "South Bend," and then runs north-west- 
erly, into Michigan, through Berrian county, 
to the lake. The town of St. Joseph is at its 
mouth. It has Pigeon, Prairie, Hog, Portage, 
Christianna, Dowagiake, and Crooked rivers 
for tributaries, all of which afford good mill 
sites. In Cass and St. Joseph counties, are 
Four-mile, Beardsley, Townsend, McKenny, 
La Grange, Pokagon, Young, Sturges, Notta- 
wa-Sepee, and White Pigeon prairies, which 
are rich tracts of country, and fast filling up 
with inhabitants. 

Michigan abounds with small lakes and ponds. 
Some have marshy and unhealthy borders; — 
others are transparent fountains, surrounded 
with beautiful groves, an undulating country, 
pebbly and sandy shores, and teeming with 



POR EMIGRANTS. 185 

excellent fish. The counties of Oakland, Liv- 
ingston, Washtenaw, Jackson, Barry, and 
Kalamazoo, are indented with them. 

Productions. -^These are the same, in general, 
as those of Ohio and New York. Corn and 
wheat grow luxuriantly here. Rye, oats, bar-' 
ley, buckwheat, potatoes, and all the garden 
vegetables common to the climate, grow well. 
All the species of grasses are produced luxu- 
riantly. Apples and other fruit abound in the 
older settlements, especially among the French 
about Detroit. 

It will be a great fruit country. 

Subdivisions. — Michigan had been divided 
into 33 counties in 1835, some of which were 
attached to adjacent counties for judicial pur- 
poses. Other counties may have been formed 
since. The following organized counties show 
the population of the State, (then Territory,) at 
the close of 1834. 



186 



peck's guide 



Counties. Population. 

Berrian, 1,787 

Branch, 764 

Calhoun, 1,714 

Cass, 3,280 

Jackson, 1,865 

Kalamazoo, 3,124 

Lenawee, 7,911 

Macomb, 6,055 

Monroe, 8,542 

Oakland, 13,844 

St. Clair, 2,244 

gt. Joseph, 3,168 

Washtenaw, 14,920 

Wayne, 16,638 

Total, 85,856 



Seats OF Justice. Dist.from 
JJetroit. 

Berrian, 180 

Branch, 133 

Eckford, 100 

Cassopolis, 160 

Jacksonsburgh, 77 

Bronson, 137 

Tecumseh, 63 

Mount Clemens, .... 25 

Monroe, 36 

Pontiac, 28 

St. Clair, 60 

White Pigeon, 135 

Ann Arbor, 42 

Detroit, 



The other counties are Hillsdale, VanBuren, 
Allegan, Barry, Eaton, Ingham, Livingston, 
Lapeer, Genesee, Shiawassee, Chnton, Ionia, 
Kent, Ottawa, Oceana, Gratiot, Isabella, Mid- 
land, Saginaw, Sanilac, Gladwin and Arenac, 
the population of which are included in the 
counties given in the table. Doubtless, the 
population of Michigan now (Jan. 1836) ex- 
ceeds one hundred thousand. 

The counties are subdivided into incorporated 
townships, for local purposes, the lines of which 
usually correspond with the land surveys. 

For the sales of public lands, the State is 
divided into three land districts, and land 
offices are established at Detroit, Monroe, and 
Bronson. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 187 

Chief Toums. — Detroit is the commercial and 
political metropolis. It is beautifully situated 
on the west side of the river Detroit, 18 miles 
above Maiden in Canada, and 8 miles below 
the outlet of Lake St. Clair. A narrow street, 
on which the wharves are built, runs parallel 
with the river. After ascending the bench or 
bluff, is a street called Jefferson Avenue, on 
which the principal buildings are erected. 
The older dwellings are of wood, but many- 
have been recently built of brick, with base- 
ments of stone, the latter material being brought 
from Cleveland, Ohio. The primitive forest 
approaches near the town. The table land ex- 
tends 12 or 15 miles interior, when it becomes 
wet and marshy. Along Detroit river the an- 
cient French settlements extend several miles, 
and the inhabitants exhibit all the peculiar 
traits of the French on the Mississippi. Their 
gardens and orchards are valuable. 

The public buildings of Detroit, are a state 
house, a council house, an academy, and two 
or three banking houses. There are five 
churches for as many different denominations, 
in which the Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Bap- 
tists, Methodists, and Roman Catholics worship. 
The Catholic congregation is the largest, and 
they have a large cathedral. Stores and com- 
mercial warehouses are numerous, and business 
is rapidly increasing. Town lots, rents, and 
landed property in the vicinity are rising rapid- 
ly. Lots have advanced, within two or three 
years, in the business parts of the city, more 



1B8 

than one thousand per cent. Mechanics of all 
descriptions, and particularly those in the 
building line, are much wanted here, and in 
other towns in Michigan. The population is 
supposed to be about 10,000, and is rapidly in- 
creasing. • This place commands the trade of 
all the upper lake country. 

Monroe, the seat of justice for Monroe coun- 
ty, is situated on the right bank of the river 
Raisin, opposite the site of old Frenchtown. 
Two years since, it had about 150 houses, of 
which 20 or 30 were of stone, and 1600 inhab- 
itants. There were also two flouring and sev- 
eral saw-mills, a woollen factory, an iron foun- 
dry, a chair factory, &c., and an abundant sup- 
ply of water power. The ^'Bank of the River 
Raisin, "wdth acapitalofglOO,000, is established 
here. The Presbyterians, Episcopalians, Bap- 
tists, Methodists, and Roman Catholics have 
houses of worship and ministers here. It was 
at this place, or rather at Frenchtown in its 
vicinity, that a horrible massacre of American 
prisoners took place during the last war with 
Great Britain, by the Indians under Gen. 
Proctor, The sick and wounded were burned 
alive in the hospital, or shot as they ran shriek- 
ing through the flames! 

Of the 700 young men barbarously murdered 
here, many were students at law, young phy- 
sicians, and merchants, the best blood of Ken- 
tucky! 

Mount Clemens, Brownstown, Ann Arbor, 
Pontiac, White Pigeon, Tecumseh, Jacksons- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 189 

burgh, Niles, St. Joseph, Spring Arbor, and 
many others, are pleasant villages, and will 
soon become populous. 

Education. — Congress has made the same 
donations of lands, as to other Western States, 
and will, doubtless, appropriate the same per 
centage on the sales of all public lands, when 
the State is admitted into the Union, as has 
been appropriated to the other new States. A 
respectable female academy is in operation at 
Detroit. The Presbyterian denomination are 
about establishmg a college at Ann Arbor, the 
Methodists a seminary at Spring Arbor, the 
Baptists one in Kalamazoo county, and 
the Roman Catholics, it is said, have fixed 
their post at Bertrand, a town on the St. Joseph 
river, in the south-eastern corner of Berrian 
county, and near to the boundary line of In- 
diana. Much sentiment and feeling exists in 
favor of education and literary institutions, 
amongst the people. 

Improvements projected. — A survey has been 
made for a rail-road across the peninsula of 
Detroit, through the counties of Wayne, Wash- 
tenaw, Jackson, Calhoun, Kalamazoo, Van 
Buren and Berrian, to the mouth of St. Joseph 
river. Another project is, to commence at or 
near Toledo on the Maumee river, and pass 
through the southern counties of Michigan 
into Indiana, and terminate at Michigan city. 
A third project is, to open a water communica- 
tion from the navigable waters of Grand river, 
to Huron river, and, by locks and slack water 
8* 



190 peck's guide 

navigation, enter lake Erie. A canal from the 
mouth of Maumee Bay to lake Michigan, has 
also been spoken of as a feasible project; — or 
one from the mouth of the river Raisin to the 
St. Joseph, would open a similar communica- 
tion. It has also been suggested to improve 
the river Raisin by locks and slack water navi- 
gation. Doubtless not many years will elapse 
before some of these projects will prove reali- 
ties. 

Boundary Dispute. — This unpleasant dispute 
between Ohio and Michigan, relates to a strip 
of country about fifteen miles in width at its 
eastern, and seven miles at its western end, 
lying between the north-eastern part of Indiana 
and the Maumee Bay. A portion of the Wa- 
bash and Erie canal, now constructing by In- 
diana, and which is dependent for its comple- 
tion on either Ohio or Michigan, passes over 
this territory. Michigan claims it by virtue of 
an ordinance of Congress, passed the 13th 
of July, 1787, organizing the ^' JYorth-Wesfern 
Territory, ^^ in which the boundaries of three 
States were laid off, "Provided, that the boun- 
daries of these three States shall be subject so 
far to be altered, that, if Congress shall here- 
after find it expedient, they shall have authori- 
ty to form one or two States in that part of the 
said territory which lies north of an east and west 
line drawn through the southerly bend or extreme of 
lake Michigan ;^^ — Ohio claims it by possession, 
and because, by being received into the Union 
with this portion in possession, Congress vir- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 191 

tually annulled that part of the former ordi- 
nance that fixed the south bend of lake Michi- 
gan as the boundary line, and by having run 
the line north of this. 

Outlines of the Constitution. — A convention 
assembled at Detroit, on the 11th of May, 
1835, and framed a constitution for a state 
government, which was submitted to, and rati- 
fied by vote of the people on the first Monday 
in October. 

The powers of the government are divided 
into three distinct departments; — the legisla- 
tive, — the executive, — and the judicial. 

The legislative power is vested in a Senate 
and House of Representatives. The representa- 
tives are to be chosen annually; and their 
number cannot be less than 48, nor more than 
100. 

The senators are to be chosen every two 
years, one half of them every year, and to con- 
sist, as nearly as may be, of one third of the 
number of the representatives. 

The census is to be taken in 1837, and 1845, 
and every ten years after the latter period; 
and also after each census taken by the United 
States, the number of senators and representa- 
tives is to be apportioned anew among the 
several counties, according to the number of 
white inhabitants. 

The legislature is to meet annually, on the 
first Monday in January. 

The executive power is to be vested in a 
governor, who holds his office for two years. 



192 peck's guide 

Upon a vacancy, the lieutenant governor per- 
forms executive duties. The first election was 
held on the first Monday in October, 1835, 
and the governor and lieutenant governor hold 
their offices till the first Monday in January, 
1838. 

The judicial power is vested in one Supreme 
Court, and in such other courts as the legisla- 
ture may, from time to time, establish. The 
judges of the Supreme Court are to be appoint- 
ed by the governor, with the advice and con- 
sent of the Senate, for the term of seven years. 
Judges of all county courts, associate judges 
of circuit courts, and judges of probate, are to 
be elected by the people for the term of four 
years. 

Each township is authorized to elect four 
justices of the peace, who are to hold their 
offices for four years. In all elections, every 
white male citizen above the age of 21 years, 
having resided six months next preceding 
any election, is entitled to vote at such elec- 
tion. 

Slavery, lotteries, and the sale of lottery 
tickets, are prohibited. 

The seat of government is to be at Detroit, 
or such other place or places as may be pre- 
scribed by law until the year 1847, when it is 
to be permanently fixed by the legislature. 



for emigrants. 193 

Ohio 
— Is bounded on the north by lake Erie, and 
the State of Michigan, east by Pennsylvania 
and the Ohio river, south by the Ohio 
river, which separates it from Virginia and 
Kentucky, and west by Indiana. The me- 
anderings of the Ohio river extend along 
the line of this State 436 miles. It is about 
222 miles in extent, both from north to south, 
and from east to west. After excluding a 
section of lake Erie, which projects into its 
northern borders, Ohio contains about 40,000 
square miles, or 25^000,000 acres of land. 

Divisions. — Nature has divided this State 
into four departments, — according to its prin- 
cipal waters, 

1. The Lake country, situated on lake Erie, 
and embracing all its northern part. Its streams 
all run into the lake, and reach the Atlantic 
ocean through the Gulf of St. Lawrence. 

2. The Muskingum country, on the eastern 
side, and along the river of that name. 

3. The Scioto country, in the middle, — and, 

4. The Miami country, along the western 
side. 

For civil purposes, the State is divided into 
seventy-five counties, and these are again sub- 
divided into townships. Their names, date of 
organization, number of square miles, number 
of organized townships, seats of justice, and 
bearing and distance from Columbus, are ex- 
hibited in the following 



194 



PECK S GUIDE 



Table. 



Counties, 


■i 
II 

1797 
1831 
1811 
1805 
1801 
1818 
1803 
1833 
1805 
1818 
1800 
1810 
1803 
1811 
1826 
1810 
1817 
1808 
1800 
1810 
1803 
1803 
1805 
1803 
1810 
1790 
1828 
1833 
1813 

1805 
1818 
1825 
1815 
1816 
1797 
1808 
1817 
1808 
1818 
1824 


550 
542 
7 00 
740 
536 
470 
480 
* 

417 
412 
515 
400 

562 
594 
475 
660 
610 
540 
415 
5-20 
500 
600 
400 
621 
400 
576 
570 

* 

744 
555 
43--2 
422 
800 
490 
400 
618 
430 
666 
425 
530 


i 

10 

27 
19 
16 
14 
13 
* 

12 

10 
12 

8 

* 
21 
12 
19 
10 
23 
14 

7 
18 
15 
23 

8 
19 
14 

5 

13 

2 
11 

9 
14 
29 
13 
13 
24 
12 
25 

9 
19 


jSeats of Justice. 

1 


Bearing and 
distance 
from Co- 
lumbus. 


Adams, 


West Union, 

Lima, 


101^. 


Allen, . 


UOn.w. 


Ashtabula, 

Athens . 


Jefferson, 

lAthens, 


2'JO n. w. 
73 .*. e. 


Belmont, 


St. Clairsville, ... 

Georgetown, 

Hamilton, 

CarroUton, 

Urbanna, 

[Springfield, 

Batavia, 

Wilmington, 

New Lisbon, .... 

Coshocton, 

Bucyrus, 

Cleveland, 

Greenville, 

Delaware, 

Lancaster, 

^Washington, 

Columbus, 

Gallipolis, 

Chardon, 

Xenia, 


116 e. 




104 s. 


Butler, 


101 s.w. 


Carroll, 


125 e. n. e. 


Champaign, 

Clark, 


50 M. 71. W 

44 w. 


Clermont, 


98 s. w. 


Clinton, 


60 s. 10. 


Columbiana, 

Coshocton, 

Crawford, 


1.50 c.n.e. 
68 71. e. 
60 71. 


Cuyahoga, 

Dark, 


140 71. 71. c 

93 70. 




24 n„ 


Fairfield, 


28 s. e. 


Fayette, 


38 s. w. 






Gallia, 


102 .9. s. e. 




157 n. e. 








Cambridge, 

Cincinnati, 

Findlay, 

Kenton 


76 fl. 




110 5. w. 


Hancock, 


90 11. n. w 


Hardin, .... 




Harrison, 


Cadiz, 


124 e. n. e. 


Henry, 


Napoleon, 

Hillsborough, .... 


161 u. w. 


Highland, 


62 s. s. 10. 




46 s. s. e. 


Holmes, 


Millersburg, 

Nor walk, 

Ijackson, 

Steubenville, 

Mount Vernon, . . 

Burlington, 

Newark, 

Bellefontaine, 

Elyria, 


81 7t e 




106 71. 




73 s. s c. 


Jefferson, 


147 e. 71. e. 
47 n. 11. e. 


Lawrence, 

Lickine, . . 


130 s. s. e. 
33 e. 71. e. 




Lorain, 


130 n. 11. e. 



* Carroll county has been formed from Columbiana, Harrison, 
Stark and Tuscarawas since the edition of the Ohio Gazetteer of 1833 
was published, from which the foregoing table has been constructed. 
Hence the townships in each are not given. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 



195 



Table (continued.) 



Counties. 



^tx 



Lucas,* l'^35 

Madison, 1810 

Marion, 1824 

Medina, 1818 

Meigs, 1819 

Mercer, 1824 

Miami, 1 1807 

Monroe, -1815 

Montgomerv, 11803 

Morgan, . ." !1819 

Muskingum, 1804 

Pauldingjf — 

Perry, 1818 

Pickaway, 1810 

Pike, 1815 

Portage, 1807 

Preble, 1808 

Putnam, f 

Ricliland, 1813 

Ross, 1798 

Sandusky, 1820 

Scioto, 1803 

Seneca, 1824 

Shelby, 1819 

Stark, 1809 

Trumbull, 1800 

Tuscarawas, 1808 

Union, 1820 

Vanwert,t 

Warren, 1803 

Wasliington, 1788f 

Wayne, 18121 

Williams, 1824 

Wood, 182ol 



Seats of Justice. 



Toledo, 

London, 

Marion, 

Medina, 

Chester, 

St. Mary's, 

Troy, 

Woods field, 

Dayton, 

M'Connelsviile, . . 
Zanesville, 

Somerset, 

Circleville, 

Piketon, 

Ravenna, 

Eaton, 

Mansfield, 

Chillicolhe, 

Lower Sandusky, 

Portsmouth, 

Tiffin, 

Sidney, 

Canton, 

Warren, 

New Philadelphia, 
Marysville, 

Lebanon, 

Marietta, 

Wooster, 

Defiance, 

Perrysburg, 



'..- 


6i 




^^ 




ii 


1^ 


150 m. 


71. W 


25 w 


. s.w. 


45 m 




110 71 


n. e. 


94 5. 


s. e. 


HI n 


. w. 


iiSn 


ofw 


120 e. 


s e. 


68 OT 




75 5. 


e. 


52 e. 




170 n 


w. 


46 e 


5. e. 


26 s. 




64 5. 




135 71 


e. 


50 w 




148 7t 


ID. 


74 71 


71. e 


45 5. 




105 71. 




90 5. 




87 71 




70 n. 


ID. 


116 71 


e. 


160 71. 


e. 


100 e. 


n. e. 


30 71. 


w. 


100 11. 


w. 


80s. 


w. 


106 5. 


e. 


89 71. 


e. 


130 71. 


w. 


135 11. 


w. 



* Lucas county has been recently formed from parts taken from 
Sandusky and Wood counties, and from the disputed country claimed 
by Michigan. 

f Paulding, Putnam, and Vanwert counties had not been organized 
at the period of our information. 

Much of the land in Vanwert is wet. The southern portion con- 
tains much swampy prairie. 



196 PECK S GUIDE 

There are nineteen congressional districts 
in Ohio, which elect as many members of Con- 
gress, and twelve circuits for Courts of Com- 
mon Pleas. 

Face of the Country. — The interior and north- 
ern parts of the State bordering on lake Erie, 
are generally level, and, in some places, wet 
and marshy. The eastern and south-eastern 
parts bordering on the Ohio river, are hilly 
and broken, but not mountainous. In some 
counties the hills are abrupt and broken, — in 
others they form ridges, and are cultivated to 
their summits. Immediately on the banks of 
the Ohio and other large rivers are strips of 
rich alluvion soil. 

The country along the Scioto and two Mia- 
mies, furnish more extensive bodies of rich, 
fertile land, than any other part of the State. 
The prairie land is found in small tracts near 
the head waters of the Muskingum and Scioto, 
and between the sources of the two Miami 
rivers, and especially in the north-western part 
of the State. Many of the prairies in Ohio are 
low and wet; — some are elevated and dry, and 
exhibit the features of those tracts called "bar- 
rens" in Illinois. There are extensive plains, 
some of which are wet, towards Sandusky. 

Soil and Productions. — The soil, in at least 
three fourths of the State, is fertile; — and some 
of it very rich. The poorest portion of Ohio, is 
along the Ohio river, from 15 to 25 miles in 
width, and extending from the National road 
opposite Wheeling, to the mouth of the Scioto 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 197 

river. Many of the hills in this region are 
rocky. 

Among the forest trees are oak of various 
species, white and black walnut, hickory, 
maple of different kinds, beech, poplar, ash of 
several kinds, birch, buckeye, cherry, chest- 
nut, locust, elm, hackberry, sycamore, linden, 
with numerous others. Amongst the under 
growth are spice-bush, dogwood, ironwood, 
pawpaw, hornbeam, black-haw, thorn, wild 
plum, grape vines, &c. The plains and wet 
prairies produce wild grass. 

The agricultural productions are such as are 
common to the Eastern and Middle States. 
Indian corn, as in other Western States, is a 
staple grain, raised with much ease, and in 
great abundance. More than 100 bushels are 
produced from an acre, on the rich alluvial 
soils of the bottom lands, though from 40 to 50 
bushels per acre ought to be considered an 
average crop. The State generally has a fine 
soil lor wheat, and flour is produced for ex- 
portation in great-quantities. Rye, oats, buck- 
wheat, barley, potatoes, melons, pumpkins, and 
all manner of garden vegetables, are cultivated 
to great perfection. No markets in the United 
States are more profusely and cheaply supplied 
with meat and vegetables than those of Cincin- 
nati and other large towns in Ohio. Hemp is 
produced to some extent, and the choicest 
kinds of tobacco is raised and cured in some 
of the counties east of the Muskingum river. 
Fruits of all kinds are raised in great plenty,, 
9 



198 peck's guide 

especially apples, which grow to a large size, 
and are finely flavored. The vine and the 
mulberry have been introduced, and with en- 
terprise and industry, wine and silk might easily 
be added to its exports. 

Animals. — Bears, wolves, and deer are still 
found in the forests and unsettled portions of 
the vState. The domestic animals are similar 
to other States. Swine is one of the staple 
productions, and Cincinnati has been denom- 
inated the '^pork market of the world." Other 
towns in the west, and in Ohio, are beginning 
to receive a share of this trade, especially 
along the lines of the Miami, and the Erie 
canals. 150,000 hogs have been slaughtered 
and prepared for market in one season in Cin- 
cinnati. About 75,000 is the present estimated 
number, from newspaper authority. Immense 
droves of fat cattle are sent every autumn from 
the Scioto valley and other parts of the State. 
They are driven to all the markets of the east 
and south. 

Minerals. — The mineral deposits of Ohio, as 
yet discovered, consist principally in iron, salt, 
and bituminous coal, and are found chiefly 
along the south-eastern portion of the State. 
Let a line be drawn from the south-eastern part 
of Ashtabula county, in a south-western direc- 
tion, by Northampton in Portage county, 
Wooster, Mount Vernon, Granville, Circleville, 
to Hillsborough, and thence south to the Ohio 
river in Brown county, and it would leave 



von EMIGRANTS. 199 

most of the salt, iron and coal on the eastern 
and south-eastern side. 

Financial Statistics. — From the Auditor's 
Report to the Legislature now in session, (Jan. 
1836,) the following items are extracted. The 
general revenue is obtained from moderate 
taxes on landed and personal property, and 
collected by the county treasurers, — from 
insurance, bank and bridge companies, from 
lawyers and physicians, &c. 

Collected in 1835, by the several county 
treasurers, ^150,080, (omitting fractions): 
paid by banks, bridges, and insurance com- 
panies, $26,060; — by lawyers, and physicians, 
gl,598; — other sources, $24,028, — making an 
aggregate of $201,766. The disbursements 
are, — amount of deficit for 1834, $16,622; 
— bills redeemed at the treasury for tlie 
year ending Nov. 1835, $182,005; — interest 
paid on school funds, $33,101, Stc, amounting 
to $235,365 — and showing a deficit in the re- 
venue of $33,590. 

Canal Funds. 

These appear to be separate accounts from 
the general receipts and disbursements. 

Miami Canal. — The amount of money arising 
from the sales of Miami canal lands up to the 
15th of Nov., 1835, is $310,178. This sum has 
been expended in the extension of the canal 
north of Dayton. 

Ohio Canal. — The amount of taxes collected 
for canal purposes for the year 1835, including 



200 peck's guide 

tolls, sales of canal lands, school lands, balance 
remaining in the treasury of last year, &c., is 
^509,322. Only $38,242 of the general re- 
venue were appropriated to canal purposes, of 
which $35,507 went to pay interest on the 
school funds borrowed by the State. 

The foreign debt is $4,400,000;— the legal 
interest of which is $260,000 per annum. The 
domestic debt of the State, arising from invest- 
ing the different school funds, is $579,287; — 
the interest of which amounts to $34,757, — ma- 
king an aggregate annual interest paid by the 
State on loans, $294,757. The canal tolls for 
the year 1835, amount to $242,357, and the 
receipts from the sale of Ohio canal lands, 
$64,549, — making an aggregate income to 
the canal fund of $306 ,906 per annum; — a sum 
more than sufficient to pay the interest on all 
loans for canal purposes. 

Items of Expenditure. — Under this head the 
principal items of the expenditures of the State 
government are given. 

Members, and officers of the General 

Assembly, per annum, $43,987 

Officers of government, 20,828 

Keeper of the Penitentiary, 1 ,909 

For new Penitentiary buildings, .... 46,050 

State printing, 12,243 

Paper and Stationary for use of the 

State, 4,478 

Certificates for wolf scalps, 2,824 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 



201 



2,276 



1,027 



Adjutant, and Quarter Master Gen- 
erals, and Brigade Inspectors, .... 
Treasurer's mileage on settlement 

with the Auditor of State, 

Deaf and Dumb Asylum, 5,700 

Periodical works, &c 400 

Postage on documents, 545 

Reporter to Court in Bank, 300 

Members and clerks of the Board 
of Equalization, and articles fur- 
nished, 1 ,960 

Paymaster General, — Ohio Militia, 2,000 

The extra session of the legislature on the 
boundary line, in June, 1835, was $6,823. 

Land Taxes. — The amount of lands taxed, 
and the revenue arising therefrom, at several 
different periods, are herewith given, to show 
the progressive advance of the farming and 
other interests of the State. 



Years. 



1809 
1810 
1811 



Acres. 



9,924,033 
10,479,029 
12,134,777 



Taxes paid. 



$63,991 87cts 
67,501 60 
170,546 74 



From 1811 to 1816, the average increase of 
the taxes, paid by the several counties, was 
|59,351. From 1816 the State rose rapidly in 
the scale of prosperity and the value of property. 
In 1820, the number of acres returned as tax- 
able, exceeded a fraction of 13 millions, while 
the aggregate of taxes, was $205,346. 

The period of depression and embarrassment 



202 peck's guide 

that followed throughout the west, prevented 
property from advancing in Ohio. In 1826, 
'27, '28, '29, '30, a material change in the 
amount of property taxable took place, from 
a few hundred thousands, to more than fifty 
millions. The total value of taxable property 
of the State for 1835, (exclusive of three coun- 
ties from which returns had not been received,) 
amounts to the sum of ninety-four millions, four 
hundred and thirty-seven thousand , nine hundred, 
and fifty-one dollars. 

School Funds. — The amount of school funds 
loaned to the State, up to Nov. 15th, 1835, is — 

Virginia Military land fund, $1-09,937 

United States Military land fund, . . . 90,126 

Common School fund, 23,179 

Athens University, 1 ,431 

School section, No. 16, 453,000 

Connecticut Western Reserve, .... 125,758 
Total, $803,432 

The following tabular view of the acres of 
land, total amount of taxable property, and total 
amount of taxes paid for 1833, is taken from the 
Ohio Gazetteer, It should be noted that in all 
the Western States, lands purchased of the 
government of the United States, are exempted 
from taxation for five years after sale. It is 
supposed that such lands are not included in 
the table. I have also placed the population 
of each county for 1830, from the census of 
that year; — reminding the reader that great 
changes have since been made. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 



203 



Counties. 


Popula- 
tion 1830. 


Acres of land. 


Total amount 
of taxable 
property. 


Total amount 
of Taxes paid. 


Adams 


12,231 


234,822 


!$832,565 


|f;6,995 41 


Allen 


573 


14,159 


51,214 


725 28 


Ashtabula 


14,584 


449,742 


1,347,900 


13,524 97 


Athens 


9,787 


365,348 


481,579 


5,820 90 


Belmont 


28,627 


301,511 


1,591,716 


11,590 33 


Brown 


17,867 


267,130 


1,358,944 


8,179 35 


Butler 


27,142 


257,989 


2,514,007 


20,111 55 


Carroll 





185,942 


529,575 


6,876 92 


Champaign 


12,131 


233,493 


908,571 


5,956 66 


Clark 


13,114 


247,083 


1,114,995 


7,744 89 


Clermont 


20,466 


280,679 


1,542,627 


15,645 31 


Clinton 


11,436 


239,404 


785,770 


6,482 14 


Columbiana 


35,592 


317,796 


1,491,099 


14,217 28 


Coshocton 


11,161 


246,123 


850,708 


9,307 28 


Crawford 


4,791 


79,582 


217,675 


3,630 09 


Cuyahoga 


10,373 


292,252 


1,401,591 


18,122 96 


Dark 


6,204 


107,730 


260,259 


3,312 81 


Delaware 


11,504 


338,856 


831,093 


8,516 66 


Fairfield 


24,786 


308,163 


1,992,697 


13,716 97 


Fayette 


8,182 


234,432 


544,539 


6,428 98 


Franklin 


14,741 


325,155 


1,663,315 


13,247 34 


Gallia 


9,733 


205,727 


427,962 


4,826 55 


Geauga 


15,813 


381,380 


1,427,869 


15,832 65 


Greene 


14,801 


251,512 


1,441,907 


12,082 30 


Guernsey 


18,036 


275,652 


908,109 


9,855 72 


Hamilton 


52,317 


239,122 


7,726,091 


97,530 42 


Hancock 


813 


9, .302 


50,929 


421 70 


Harden 


210 


125,607 


118,425 


1,291 43 


Harrison 


20,916 


22,412 


1,025,210 


12,400 97 


Highland 


16,345 


317,079 


1,065,863 


8,755 29 


Hocking 


4,008 


92,332 


215,272 


1,919 29 


Holmes 


9,135 


182,4.39 


556,060 


6,364 03 


Huron 


13,346 


504,689 


1,512,655 


15,490 88 


Jackson 


5,941 


57,874 


197,932 


2,239 69 


Jefferson 


22,489 


230,145 


1,855,064 


13,149 44 


Knox 


17,085 


313,823 


1,252,294 


13,329 41 



204 



PECK S GUIDE 



Counties. 


Popula- 
tion 1830. 


Acres of land 


Total amount 
of taxable 
property. 


Total amount 
of Taxes paid. 


Lawrence 


5,367 


56,862 


$241,782 


$2,280 80 


Licking 


20,869 


393,205 


2,101,495 


17,370 83 


Logan 


6,440 


203,509 


519,622 


3,925 65 


Lorain 


5,696 


360,863 


889,552 


10,539 09 


Madison 


6,190 


256,421 


600,578 


4,643 91 


Marion 


6,551 


168,164 


390,602 


5,599 78 


Medina 


7,560 


296,257 


931,599 


10,198 31 


Meigs 


6,158 


229,004 


380,172 


5,111 58 


Mercer 


1,110 


12,688 


54,118 


714 30 


Miami 


12,807 


240,093 


1,000,748 


6,423 09 


Monroe 


8,768 


95,520 


280,572 


3,666 61 


Montgomery 


24,362 


267,349 


2,293,419 


14,649 12 


Morgan 


11,800 


169,135 


452,991 


4,945 02 


Muskingum 


29,334 


366,609 


2,362,616 


18,567 75 


Perry 


13,970 


175,123 


729,241 


6,116 55 


Pickaway 


16,001 


300,969 


1,798,665 


10,924 76 


Pike 


6,024 


129,153 


521,109 


4,114 37 


Portage 


18,826 


472,156 


2,019,029 


17,787 06 


Preble 


16,291 


246,678 


1,086,322 


7,441 82 


Richland 


24,008 


433,620 


1,354,169 


15,069 92 


Ross 


24.068 


328,765 


2,897,605 


17,474 81 


Sandusky 


2,851 


95,822 


275,992 


3,354 64 


Scioto 


8,740 


105,539 


963,882 


7,926 93 


Seneca 


6,159 


108,758 


302,089 


3,916 51 


Stark 


26,-588 


374,101 


1,854,967 


16,361 36 


Shelby 


3,671 


66,863 


194,468 


1,961 26 


Trumbull 


26,123 


556,011 


1,807,792 


16,635 58 


Tuscarawas 


14,298 


237,337 


902,778 


8,955 75 


Union 


3,192 


259,101 


380,535 


5,193 68 


Warren 


21,468 


243,517 


2,143,065 


16,247 33 


Washington 


11,731 


282,498 


681,301 


7,463 12 


Wayne 
Williams and! 

others not iiu;or. 


23,333 


382,254 


1,451,996 


14,584 77 


j 1,089 


17,797 


90,066 


1,351 02 


Wood 


1,102 


17,981 


127,862 


1,572 22 


Total ! 


937,903 


17,133,481; 


78,019,526 


730,010 75 



for emigrants. 205 

Ohio Statistics — 1836. 

From the Annual Report of the Auditor of 
State, it appears there were returned on the 
General List for Taxation, 17,819,631 acres 
of land, under the new valuation, made un- 
der the law of 1833—4. 

Lands, including buildings, valued at $58,166,821 
Town Lots, including houses, mills, etc. 15,762,594 
262,291 Horses, valued at $40 each, . . . 10,491,640 
455,487 Cattle, valued at $8 each, .... 4,043,896 
Merchants' capital, and money at interest, 7,262,927 
2,603 Pleasure Carriages, valued at . . . 199,518 
Total amount of taxable property, . . . $94^38,016 

On the value of taxable property, the fol- 
lowing taxes were levied: 

State and Canal tax, $142,854 15 

County and School tax, 396,505 80 

Road tax, 66,482 16 

Towiship tax 102,991 65 

Corporation, Jail, and Bridge tax, .... 51,276 89 

Physicians' and Lawyers' tax, 3,144 19 

School-House tax, 1,482 84 

Delinquencies of former years, 13,044 37 

Total taxes, $777,782 07 

No returns were made from the counties of 
Crawford, Hancock, Jefferson and Williams. 

CANAL REVENUES. 

The total amount of receipts for tolls, for 
the year ending on the 31st of October, 1835, 
was as follows: 



206 



PECK S GUIDE 



OHIO CANAL. 



Cleaveland, . $72,718 72 
Akron, ..... 6,362 90 
Massillon, . . . 13,585 78 

Dover, 8,096 42 

Roscoe, .... 14,555 83 
115,319 45 



$20,487 85 
. 4,605 37 
. 9,651 44 
. 12,134 75 
. 23,118 78 
$69,998 00 
115,319 45 
Total, $185,317 45 



Newark, . . . 
Columbus,. . 
Circleville,. . 
Chillicothe, . 
Portsmouth, . 



MIAMI CANAL. 

Dayton, 14,016 75 

Middleton, , 8,747 19 

Hamilton, 3,664 88 

Cincinnati, 25,803 77 

Total, 52,232 59 

Total tolls received on both canals, . $237,550 04 
Deduct contingent expenses on Ohio 

canal, $5,836 05 

Do. on Miami canal, 2,954 68—8,790 73 

$228,759 31 
Toll received on Lancaster Lat. Canal, 1,062 56 

From water rents and sale of State Lots, 3,700 07 
Arrearages paid of Tolls received in 

October, 1834, . 7,835 26 

$242,357 20 

POPULATION OF OHIO AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. 



In 

1790, about 
1800, " 
1810, " 
1820, " 
1830, " 



Population. 

3,000 

45,3()5 

230,7()0 

581,434 

937,903 



1835, estimated, 1,375,000 



From 

1790 to 1800 
1800 



1810 
1820 
1830 



1810, 
1820, 
1830, 
1835, 



Increase. 

42,365 
185,395 
350,674 
356,469 
437,097 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 207 

Rivers. — The streams which flow into the 
Ohio river, are the Mahoninga branch of the 
Beaver, Little Beaver, Muskingum, Hock- 
hocking, Scioto, Little Miami, and Great Mi- 
ami. Those which flow from the northward into 
lake Erie, are the Maumee, Portage, Sandus- 
ky, Huron, Cuyahoga, Grand, and Ashtabula. 
Hence the State is divided into two unequal 
inclined planes, the longest of which slopes 
towards the Ohio, and the shortest towards the 
lake. The head waters of the Muskingum, 
Scioto and Miami, interlock with those of the 
Cuyahoga, Sandusky, and Maumee, so as to 
render the construction of canals not only 
practicable, but comparatively easy. All the 
large streams are now navigable for boats 
during the spring season. 

Internal Improvements. — These consist of ca- 
nals, rail-roads, turnpike roads, and the Na- 
tional road, now under the supervision of, and 
owned by, the State. The canalling is man- 
aged by a Board of Commissioners. The 
State canals were projected about 1823, and, 
considering the youthful character of the 
State, its want of funds and other circumstan- 
ces, they are, undoubtedly, the greatest works 
ever executed in America. 

The Ohio and Erie Canal connects lake Erie 
with the Ohio river. It commences at Cleave- 
land, at the mouth of the Cuyahoga, passes 
along that river and it tributaries, to the sum- 
mit level, from thence to the waters of the 
Muskingum, and to the border of Muskingum 



208 peck's guide 

county; from thence it strikes across the 
country past Newark, in Licking county, 
and strikes the Scioto, down the valley of 
which it proceeds to its mouth, at Portsmouth. 
The principal places on the canal are Akron, 
New Portage, Massillon, Bolivar, New Phila- 
delphia, Coshocton, Newark, Bloomfield, Cir- 
cleville, Chillicothe, Piketon, and Portsmouth. 
It was commenced on the 4th of July, 1825, 
and completed in 1832; and, together with the 
Miami canal to Dayton, cost about ^5,500,000, 
and has greatly enriched the State and the 
people. Private property along its line has 
risen from five to ten fold. 

LENGTH or OHIO AND ERIE CANAL. 

Miles. 

Main trunk from Cleavelandto Portsmouth, 310 

Navigable feeder from main trunk to Columbus, .... 11 
Navigable feeder from main trunk to Granville, .... 6 
Muskingum side cut, from the Muskingum river at 

Dresden, 3 

Navigable feeder from the Tuscaraw^as river, 3 

Navigable feeder from the Walhonding river, 1 

Total length of Ohio canal and branches, 334 

The Miami Canal commences at Cincinnati, 
and, passing through the towns of Reading, 
Hamilton, Middletown, Franklin, and Miamis- 
burg, terminates at Dayton, 65 miles. It has 
been navigated from Dayton to the head of 
Main street, Cincinnati, since the spring of 
1829. An extension of the work is now in 
progress, to be carried along the vallies of 
St. Mary's and Au Glaise rivers, and unite 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 209 

with the Wabash and Erie canal, at Defiance ; 
distance from Cincinnati about 190 miles. 

An act passed the Ohio legislature in 1834, 
for continuing the Wabash and Erie canal, 
(now constructing in Indiana, by that State,) 
from the western boundary of Ohio, to the 
Maumee bay. Operations have been suspend- 
ed by the boundary dispute with Michigan. 

The Mahoning and Beaver Canal has already 
beennoticed, under the head of Western Penn- 
sylvania. It is proposed to carry it from Ak- 
ron, on the Portage summit, along the valley 
of the Mahoning river, to Newcastle, on the 
Beaver division of the Pennsylvania canal. 
Distance in Ohio, 77 miles. The work is in 
progress. 

The Sandy Creek and Little Beaver Canal 
is in progress by a chartered company. It 
commences near the town of Bolivar, on the 
Ohio and Erie canal, in Tuscarawas county, 
and passes along near the line of Stark and 
Carroll counties to the Little Beaver in Co- 
lumbiana county, and from thence to the Ohio 
river. 

The Mad River and Sandushj Rail-Road will 
extend from Dayton, on the Miami canal, to 
Sandusky, through Springfield, Urbanna,Belle- 
fontaine. Upper Sandusky, Tiffin, and down 
the valley of the Sandusky river to lake Erie. 
The route is remarkably favorable for locomo- 
tive power. Length 153 miles ; estimated 
cost, ^^11,000 per mile. The work was com- 
menced in September, 1835. 



210 PECK^S GUIDE 

The Erie and Ohio Rail-Road is intended to 
be constructed from Ashtabula on the lake, 
through Warren to Wellsville, on the Ohio 
river, a distance of 90 miles. Other rail-roads 
are in contemplation in this State, the most 
important of which is the Great Western Rail- 
Road, from Boston, by Worcester, Springfield, 
and Stockbridge, through New York, by Al- 
bany, Utica and Buffalo, along the summit 
ridge, dividing the northern from the southern 
waters, through Pennsylvania, Ohio, to inter- 
sect the Wabash and Erie canal at La Fay- 
ette, in Indiana. From thence provision is 
already made for it to pass to the eastern boun- 
dary of Illinois, from which, a company has 
been recently chartered to construct it across 
the the State of Illinois by Danville, Shelby- 
ville, Hillsborough, to Alton on the Mississippi. 
It must be some untoward circumstance that 
shall prevent this splendid work from being 
completed the whole length before 1850. 

The project of a rail-road from Cincinnati, 
to Charleston in South Carolina, has been 
entered upon with great spirit in the South, 
and in all the States more directly concerned 
in the enterprise. It will, undoubtedly, be 
carried into effect. 

The State of Ohio has incorporated a num- 
ber of turnpike companies, some of which 
have gone into operation. The first is near 
the north-eastern corner of the State, from 
Pierpont, through Monroe and Salem town- 
ships to the mouth of Conneant creek, 16 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 211 

miles long. The second is the Trumbull and 
Ashtabula turnpike, leading from Warren to 
Ashtabula, 48 miles. The third is from the 
town of Wooster, through Medina, to Cleave- 
land, 51 miles. The fourth is from Columbus 
to Sandusky, 106 miles, now in the course 
of construction. Another from Cincinnati, 
through Lebanon and Columbus, to Wooster, 
has been commenced on the McAdamized 
plan, but is not completed. A McAdam turn- 
pike from Cincinnati to Chillicothe is in pro- 
gress. The National road, constructed by 
the general government, and transferred to 
the State, passes from Wheeling, through 
Columbus to the Indiana line. 

Mamifadures. — The principal factory for 
woollen goods is at Steubenville. A number'^ 
of cotton factories are in the towns along the 
Ohio river. Furnaces for smelting iron ore 
are in operation in the counties bordering on 
the Ohio, near the mouth of the Scioto. Glass 
is manufactured in several towns. Consider- 
ble salt is made on the Muskingum below 
Zanesville, on the Scioto, and on Yellow 
creek above Steubenville. About half a mil- 
lion of bushels were made in the State in 
1830. 

Cincinnati rivals Pittsburg in the number, 
variety and extent of its manufacturing opera- 
tions. 

In every town and village through the State, 
mechanics' shops are established for the man- 
ufacture of all articles of ordinary use. 



212 peck's guide 

Cities and Towns. — To enter upon minute 
descriptions, or even name all these, would 
much exceed the bounds of this work. 

Cincinnati is the great commercial empo- 
rium of the State. It is pleasantly situated on 
the right or northern bank of the Ohio river, 
about equidistant from Pittsburg and its 
mouth, in N. lat. 39° 06', and W. Ion. from 
Washington city 7° 25'. 

Directly fronting the city to the south, and 
on the opposite side of the Ohio river, are the 
flourishing manufacturing towns of Newport 
and Covington, which are separated by the 
Licking river, of Kentucky, which enters 
the Ohio directly opposite the Cincinnati 
landing. 

The wharf arrangements are the most con- 
venient, for lading and unlading goods at all 
stages of the water, to be found on our west- 
ern rivers. The town site is beautifully situated 
on the first and second banks of the river — 
the former of which is above ordinary high 
water, and the latter gently rises sixty or sev- 
enty feet higher, and spreads out into a semi- 
circular plain, surrounded with elevated blufl^s. 
Cincinnati was founded in 1789, but did not 
grow rapidly till about 1808. The progressive 
increase of population will appear from the 
following table : 

1810, 2,32011826, 16,230 

1813, 4,000|l830, 26,515 

1819, 10,00011835, estimated, 31,000 

1824, 12,016| 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 213 

Add the adjoining towns of Covington and 
Newport, whose interests are identified, and 
the aggregate population v/ill equal 35,000; 
and, in all reasonable probability, in 1850, 
these towns, with Cincinnati, will number 
100,000 active, educated, and enterprising 
citizens. In 1826, according to the Picture 
of Cincinnati, by B. Drake, Esq. and E. D. 
Mansfield, Esq., the manufacturing industry 
alone, according to an accurate statistical ex- 
amination, amounted to 1,800,000 dollars. 
At that time there were not more than fifteen 
steam engines employed in manufactures in 
the city. At the close of 1835, there were 
more than fifty in successful operation, besides 
four or five in Newport and Covington. 
"More than 100 steam engines, about 240 
cotton gins, upwards of 20 sugar-mills, and 
22 steamboats — many of them of the largest 
size — have been built or manufactured in 
Cincinnati, during the year 1835."* Hence 
the productive industry of Cincinnati, Coving- 
ton and Newport, for 1835, may be estimated 
at 5,000,000 of dollars. By a laborious in- 
vestigation, at the close of 1826, by the same 
writer, the exports of that year were about 
1,000,000 of dollars in value. A similar in- 
quiry induced him to place the exports of 1832 
at 4,000,000. The estimate for 1835, i§ 
6,000,000. 

*See a valuable statistical article, by B, Drake, Esq., in 
the Western Monthly Magazine, for .Tanuary, 1836, enti- 
tled, " Cincinnati, at the close of 1835." 
9* 



214 PECK S GUIDE 

To enumerate ail the public and private 
edifices deserving notice, would extend this 
article to too great a length. The court 
house, four market houses, banks, college, 
Catholic Athenaeum, two medical colleges, 
Mechanics' Institute, two museums, hospital 
and Lunatics' Asylum, Woodward high 
school, ten or twelve large edifices for free 
schools, hotels, and between twenty-five and 
thirty houses for public worship, some of which 
are elegant, deserve notice. The type foun- 
dry and printing-press manufactory, is one of 
the most extensive in the United States. Here 
is machinery, lately invented, for casting 
printer's types, exceeding, perhaps, anything 
in the world. Printing, and the manufacture 
of books, are extensively carried on in this 
city. Here are six large bookstores, several 
binderies, twelve or fifteen printing-offices, 
from which are issued ten weekly, four tri- 
weekly, four daily, four monthly, and one 
quarterly publications. Two medical publi- 
cations, of a highly respectable character, are 
issued. The Western Monthly Magazine is 
too well known to need special notice here. 
The Cincinnati Mirror is a respectable litera- 
ry periodical. The Presbyterians, Baptists, 
Methodists, Roman Catholics, and, perhaps, 
other sects, have each their weekly paper, 
respectable in size and character. During 
four months, in 1831, there were issued from 
the Cincinnati press, 86,000 volumes, of which 
20,300 were original works. In the same 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 215 

period, the periodical press issued 243,200 
printed sheets. The business has increased 
greatly since that time. 

The " College of Professional Teachers,^' is 
an institution formed at the convention of 
teachers, held in this city, in October, 1832. 
Its objects are to unite the professional instruc- 
tors of youth throughout the Western country 
in the cause in which they are engaged, and 
to elevate the character of the profession. 
Their meetings are held on the first Monday 
in October annually. Lectures are given, 
discussions held, reports made, and a respect- 
able volume of transactions published annual- 
ly. There is no doubt that much good will 
result to the cause of education in the West, 
from this annual convocation. 

Law School. — An institution of this char- 
acter has been organized, under the manage- 
ment of Hon. J. C. Wright, and other gentle- 
men of the bar. 

Of Medical Schools there are two, at the 
heads of which are gentlemen of high char- 
acter and attainments in their profession. 

The Mechanics^ Insiiluie is designed for the 
diffusion of scientific knowledge among the 
mechanics and citizens generally, by means of 
popular lectures and mutual instruction. The 
Cincinnati Lyceum was formed for the purpose 
of useful instruction and entertainment, by 
means of popular lectures and debates. The 
Academic Institute is designed to aid the cause 
of education, and elevate the profession. 



216 peck's guide 

amongst the teachers in Cincinnati. Its meet- 
ings are monthly. The Mhenmum is an insti- 
tution under the management of Roman Cath- 
olic Priests. The college edifice is a splendid 
and permanent building, of great capacity. 
The Woodivard Hi^-h School was founded by 
the late William Woodward. The fund yields 
an income of about ^^^2000 annually. It is 
conducted by four professors, and has about 
one hundred and twenty students. The cor- 
poration has established a system of free 
schools, designed to extend the benefits of 
primary education to all classes, and ten or 
twelve large edifices have been erected for 
the purpose. I regret the want of documents 
to give particulars of this liberal and praise- 
worthy enterprise, which reflects, much honor 
upon the city and its honorable corporation. 
In 1833, there were twenty public schools for 
males and females, and two thousand pupils. 
Many excellent private schools and semina- 
ries, some of deserved celebrity, are sustained 
by individual enterprise. 

Columbus, the political capital of the State, 
and nearly in the centre of the State, is a 
beautiful city, on the e.ast bank of the Scioto 
river. In 1812, it was covered with a dense 
forest, when it was selected by the legislature 
for the permanent seat of government. The 
public buildings are a state house, a court 
house for the Supreme Court, a building for 
the public offices, a market house, &c., all of 
brick. The State penitentiary is here, for 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 217 

which a new substantial building is construct- 
ing, and an Asylum for the deaf and dumb, 
sustained by legislative aid. 

Chillicothe, Cleaveland, Zanesville, Steu- 
benville, Circle ville and many others, are large 
and flourishing towns. 

Education. — Charters for eight or ten col- 
leges and collegiate institutions have been 
granted. Congress has granted 92,800 acres 
of public land to this State, for colleges and 
academies. One township, (23,040 acres,) 
and a very valuable one, has been given to 
the Miami University, at Oxford. Two town- 
ships of land, (46,080 acres,) though of infe- 
rior quality, have been given to the Ohio 
University. Academies have been established 
in most of the principal towns. A common 
school system has been established by the 
legislature. Each township has been divided 
into school districts. Taxes are levied to the 
amount of three fourths of a mill upon the 
dollar of taxable property in the State, which, 
with the interest accruing from the different 
school funds already noticed, are applied to- 
wards the expenses of tuition. Five school 
examiners are appointed in each county, by 
the Court of Common Pleas, who are to ex- 
amine teachers. The governor, in his recent 
Message, speaks of the common school sys- 
tem as languishing in proportion to other 
improvements. 

Form of Government. — The legislative au- 
thority is vested in a Senate and House of Rep- 



218 peck's guide 

resentatives; both of which, collectively, are 
styled the General Assembly. The members 
of both branches are chosen by counties, or by 
districts composed of counties, according to 
population. The representatives are chosen 
annually; the senators biennially. The Gen- 
eral Assembly has the sole power of enacting 
laws ; the signature or assent of the governor 
not being necessary in any case whatever. 
The judiciary system comprises three grades 
of courts : — the Supreme Court, Courts of 
Common Pleas, and Justices' Courts. The 
justices of the peace are chosen triennially, by 
the people. The executive authority is vested 
in a governor, who is elected biennially, and 
must be thirty years of age, and have resided 
in the State at least four years. He is com- 
mander-in-chief of all the militia, and com- 
missions all officers in the State, both civil and 
military. Each free, white, male citizen of 
the United States, of twenty-one years of age, 
and a resident of the State one year preceding 
an election, is entitled to a vote in all elections. 

The following shows the professions, occu- 
pations, and nativity of the members of the 
legislature of Ohio, during the present winter, 
(1835-6,) and is about a proportionate esti- 
mate for other Western States: — 

The members of the Ohio legislature, as to 
their occupations and professions, are : — far- 
mers, 58; lawyers, 17; merchants, 13; doc- 
tors, 5; printers, 3; surveyors, 2; millers, 
2; masons, 2; carpenters, 2; painter, 1; 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 219 

watch-maker, 1 ; blacksmith, 1 ; house join- 
er, 1. 

Their nativity is as follows: — Ohio, 7; 
Pennsylvania, 30; Virginia, 22; New Eng- 
land States, 17; Maryland, 8; New York, 7; 
New Jersey, 4; Kentucky, 3; Delaware, 2; 
North Carolina, 1; Ireland, 5; England, 1; 
Germany, 1. 

The youngest member in the Senate, is 33 
years of age, and the oldest 56. In the 
House, the youngest 26; oldest 67. Under 
the Constitution, a senator must be 30; and 
a member of the House, 26. 

Antiquities. — Much has been said about the 
antiquities of Ohio, — the fortifications, arti- 
ficial mounds, and military works, supposed to 
indicate a race of civilized people, as the pos- 
sessors of the country, anterior to the Indian 
nations. At Marietta, Circleville, Paint creek, 
and some other places, are, doubtless, antiqui- 
ties, that exhibited, upon their first discovery, 
strong marks of a military purpose. I have 
no doubt, however, that credulity and enthu- 
siasm have greatly exaggerated many appear- 
ances in the West, and magnified them into 
works of vast enterprise and labor. Mounds 
of earth are found in every country on the 
globe, of all forms and sizes; and why should 
they not exist in the western valley ? Mr. 
Flint states that he has seen ahorse shoe dug up 
at the depth of thirty-five feet below the sur- 
face, with nails in it, and much eroded by 
rust. He mentions also a sword, which is 



^20 peck's guide 

said to be preserved as a curiosity, but which 
he had not seen, found enclosed in the wood 
of the roots of a tree, which could not have 
been less than five hundred years old ! Those 
who delight especially in the marvellous, may 
consult the "Description of the Antiquities 
discovered in the State of Ohio, and other 
Western States, by Caleb Atwater, Esq," 

History.' — The first permanent settlement of 
Ohio, was made at Marietta, on the 7th day 
of April, 1788, by 47 persons from Mas- 
sachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecti- 
cut. This was the nucleus around which has 
grownup the populous State of Ohio. Amongst 
the most active promoters of this colony, were 
those called then "The Ohio Company." 
The next settlement was that of Symmes' pur- 
chase, made at Columbia, six miles above 
Cincinnati, in Nov. 1789, by Major Stiles and 
twenty-five others, under the direction of 
Judge Symmes. A colony of French emi- 
grants settled at Gallipolis in 1791. In 1796 
settlements were made by New England emi- 
grants at Cleaveland and Conneant, on the 
southern shore of lake Erie. The intermedi- 
ate country gradually filled up by emigration 
from various parts of the United States. Some 
slight diversity exists, in different sections of 
the State, in manners, customs, and feelings, 
amongst the people, in accordance with the 
States or countries from which they or their 
fathers emigrated. These shades of charac- 
ter will become blended, and the next gener- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 221 

ation will be Ohians, or, to use their own 
native cognomen, Buckeyes. 

In Sept., 1790, the first territorial legislature 
convened at Cincinnati. The governor hav- 
ing exercised his right of veto in relation to 
the removal of a county seat, an unhappy 
collision followed, and, upon framing the State 
Constitution, in Nov., 1802, the convention 
prevented the governor of the State from ever 
exercising the negative power upon acts cf the 
legislature. 

DATE OF ORGANIZATION OF SOME OF THE 
OLDEST COUNTIES. 

Washington, .... July 27th, 1788 

Hamilton, Jan. 2d, 1790 

Adams, July 10th, 1797 

Jefferson, July 29th, 1797 

Ross, August 20th, 1798 

Trumbull, July 10th, 1800 

Clermont, December 6th, 1800 

Belmont, September 7th, 1801 

These were all organized under the terri- 
torial government. 
10 



222 PECK S GUIDE 



Indiana. 

Length 240, breadth 150 miles. Between 
37° 48' N. latitude, and 7° 45' and 11° W. lon- 
gitude. Bounded north by the State of Michi- 
gan and lake Michigan, east by Ohio, south 
by the Ohio river, which separates it from 
Kentucky, and west by Illinois. It contains 
about 37,000 square miles, equal to 23,680,000 
acres. 

It is naturally subdivided into the hilly por- 
tion, bordering on the Ohio; the level, tim- 
bered portion, extending across the middle of 
theState; the Wabash country, on that river; 
and the northern portion bordering on the 
State of Michigan and the lake. The two last 
portions include nearly all the prairie country. 

For civil purposes, this State has been di- 
vided into counties, and those subdivided into 
townships. 



]?0R EMIGRANTS. 



S^^ 



Table. 



CoUNTIESw 



Allen, 

Bartholomew, 

Boon, 

Carroll, 

Cass, i. 

Clark, 

Clay, 

Clinton, 

Crawford, . .. 
Daviess, . .. .. 
Dearborn, ... 
Decatur, . . . >. 
Delaware, . . . 

Dubois, 

Elkhart, .... 
Fayette, ... ;. 

Floyd, 

Fountain, . .. 

Franklin, 

Gibson, 

Grant, ...... 

Greene, 

Hamilton, . . . 
Hancock, ... 

Harrison, 

Hendricks, . . , 

Henry, 

Huntington) . 

Jackson, 

Jefferson, . . . i 
Jennings, .. . . 
Johnson, .... 

Knox, 

La Porte, . . . 
Lagrange, ... 
Lawrence,'. . 
Madison, ... 

Marion, . 

Martin, 

Miami, 

Monroe, .... 



Q 5 
tL 
1823 
1821 
1830 
1828 
1829 
1802 
1825 
1830 
1818 
1816 
1802 
1821 
1827 
1817 
1830 
1818 
1819 
1825 
1810 
1813 
1831 
1821 
1823 
1828 
1808 



1823 420 
1821 1 440 



1832 
1815 
1809 
1816 
1822 
1802 
1832 
1832 
1818 
1823 
1821 
1818 
1832 
1818 



Seats of Justice, 



1,000 
5,800 
622 
1,614 
1,154 

10,719 
1,616| 
1,423 
3,184 
4,512 

14,573 
5,854 
2,372 
l,774i 
935, 
9,112 
6,363! 
7,644! 

10,199' 
5,417 

4,250i 
1,7051 
1,5691 
10,288' 
3,967i 
6,498: 



Fort Wayne, . . . . 

Columbus, 

Lebanon, 

Delphi, 

Logan<port, .... 

Cliarlestown, 

Bowlinggreen, ., 

Frankfort, 

Fredonia, 

Washington, ... 

Lawrenceburgh,. 

Greensburgh, . . . 

Muncietown, ... 

Jasper, 

Goshen, 

Connersville, ... 

New Albany, . .. 

Covington, 

Brookville, 

Princeton, 

j.Marion, 

i\ jBloomfield, 

■ilNoblesviile, .... 

Greenfield, 

ICorydon, 

[Danville, .«».... 

Newcastle, . * . . * 



4,894 
11,46.5! 
3,950 
4,130 
6,557 



9,23 
2,442 
7,181 
2,010 

6,578 



Brownstown, . .. 

Madison, 

Vernon, 

Franklin, 

Vincennes, 

La Porte, 

Mongoquinon, . . 

Bedford, 

Andersontown, . 

;lNDIANOrOLIS, . . 

|IVlount Pleasant,. 

iMiamisport, 

|Bloomington, . . . 



1 ti;-3 



024 



PECK S GUIDE 



Table (continued.) 



Counties. 



Montgomery,. 

Morgan, 

Orange, 

Owen, 

Parke, 

Peiry, 

Pike, 

Posey, 

Putnam, 

Randolph, . . . 
Kipley, ..'.... 

Rush, 

Pcott, 

Shelby, 

Spencer, 

St. Joseph, ... 

Sullivan, 

Switzerland, , 
Tippecanoe, . 

Union, 

Vanderhurgh, 
Vermillion, .. 

Vigo, 

Wabash, .. . . 
Warren, .... 

Warrick, 

Washington, 
Wayne, 



o o 




1 . 










o .; 




d E 


S.^ 


= 2 


QS 


c-'s 


o 


lS-i2 


500 




7,37(i 


189,1 


530 


5,579 


1815 


378 


7,909 


1818 


380 


4,0()0 


18^1 


450 


7,534 


1814 


400 


3,378 


1816 


430 


2,464 


1814 


500 


6,883 


1821 


490 


8,195 


1818 


440 


3,912 


1818 


400 


3,957 


1821 


400 


9,918 


1817 


200 


3,097 


1821 


430 


6,294 


1818 


400 


3,187 


1830 


740 


287 


1816 


430 


4,696 


1814 


300 


7,111 


1826 


.500 


7,161 


1821 


224 


7,957 i 


1818 


225 


2,610 1 


1823 


280 


5,706 


1818 


400 


5,737 1 


18112 


380 




1828 


350 


2,854 


1813 


412 


2,973 ! 


1813 


550 


13,072: 


1810 


420 


23,344 1 



Seats OF Justice. 



Crawfordsville, 
Martinsville, . 

Paoli, , 

Spencer, ..... 
Rockvilie, .... 

Rome, 

Petersburgh, . 
Mount Vernon, 
Greencastle, .. 
Winchester, .. 
Versailles, .... 
Rushvilie, .... 
Lexington, ... 
Shelbyville, .. 
Rockport, .... 
South Bend, .. 

Merom, 

Vevay, 

La Fayette,... 

Liberty, 

Evansville, . . . 
Newport, .... 
Terre Haute, . 



Williamsport, 
Boonville, ... 

Salem, 

Centerville,. . 



«> S o S 

«•- O 3 



The total population in 1830, was 341,582. 
The estimated population in the message of 
Gov. Noble to the legislature, December, 1835, 
was 600,000. 

The counties in which the population has 
not been given in the foregoing table, have 
been formed since 1830. Probably other new 
counties, along the waters of the Wabash and 
ICankakee, have been formed recently, of which 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 225 

no intelligence has been had by the author. 
The counties in the northern portion of the 
State have increased the most in population 
since 1830. 

Forelecting representatives to Congress, the 
State is divided into seven electoral districts. 

For judicial purposes, it is divided into eight 
circuits, in each of which there is a circuit 
judge, who, together with two associates in 
each county, holds the circuit courts. 

POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. 



Population. 
In 1800, (excluding Illinois,) 2,r>41 

" 1810, 24,5-20 

" 1820, 147,178 

" 1825, 222,000 

"1830, 341,582 

«' 1835, (estimate,) 600,000 



Increase 

From 1800 to 1810, 21,879 

" 1810 to 1820, 122,658 

•' 1820 to 1825 74,822 

" 1825 to 1830, 119,583 

" 1830 to 1835, 119,582 



In 1825, the number of voters was 36,977, 
and the number of paupers 217! 

Face of the Country ^ Sfc. — The counties bor- 
dering on the Ohio river are hilly; — some- 
times abrupt, precipitous, stony, occasionally 
degenerating into knobs and ravines. Com- 
mencing at the mouth of White river on the 
Wabash, and following up that stream on its 
east fork, and thence along the Muskakituck, 
through Jennings and Ripley counties to Law- 
renceville, and you leave the rough and hilly 
portion of Indiana, to the right. Much of the 
country we have denominated hilly is rich, 
fertile land, even to the summits of the hills. 
On all the streams are strips of rich alluvion 



226 peck's guide 

of exhaustless fertility. The interior, on the 
two White rivers and tributaries, is moderate- 
ly undulating, tolerably rich soil, and much of 
it heavily timbered with oaks of various spe- 
cies, poplar, beech, sugar tree, walnuts, hick- 
ory, elm, and other varieties common to the 
West. There is much level, table land, be- 
tween the streams. Along the Wabash, be- 
low Terre Haute, is an undulating surface, 
diversified with forest and prairie, with a soil 
of middling quality, interspersed with some 
very rich tracts. Along the Wabash and its 
tributaries above Terre Haute, the land in 
general is first rate, — a large proportion for- 
est, interspersed with beautiful prairies. The 
timber consists of oaks of various species, 
poplar, ash, walnut, cherry, elm, sugar tree, 
buckeye, hickory, some beech, sassafras, 
lime, honey locust, with some cotton wood, 
sycamore, hackberry and mulberry on the 
bottom lands. The undergrowth is spice bush, 
hazel, plum, crab apple, hawthorn and vines. 
Along the northern part of the State are ex- 
tensive prairies and tracts of barrens, with 
groves of various kinds of timber and skirts of 
burr oak. Towards lake Michigan, and along 
the Kankakee and St. Joseph rivers, are lakes, 
swamps and marshes. 

Rivers. — The Ohio meanders along the south- 
eastern and southern parts of the State for 
350 miles. The east and west forks of White 
river, and their tributaries, water the interior 
counties for 100 miles in extent. They are 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 227 

both navigable streams for flat boats during 
the spring and autumn floods. The Wabash 
river has several heads, which interlock with 
the waters of the St. Joseph and St. Mary's, 
which form the Maumee of lake Erie. It runs 
a south-westwardly course across the State 
to Warren county, — thence southwardly to 
Vigo county, where it becomes the boundary 
between Indiana and Illinois, along which it 
meanders to the Ohio, which it enters 12 miles 
above Shawneetown. The St. Joseph of lake 
Michigan, already noticed under the State of 
Michigan, makes a curve into Elkhart and St. 
Joseph counties, forming what is called the 
South Bend. The Kankakee, which is the 
longest branch of Illinois river, rises in In- 
diana, near the South Bend. Some of its 
head waters interlock with those of Tippeca- 
noe, a prominent tributary of the Wabash.' 

SKETCH OF EACH COUNTY. 

The following sketch of each county, — its 
streams, surface, soil, and minerals, — has been 
made and collated with much labor, from an 
excellent Gazetteer of this State, published in 
1833, by Douglass and Maguire of Indianopo- 
lis, — from personal observation of many of the 
older counties, — and from an extensive cor- 
respondence. 

Allen. — Streams; St. Joseph's and St. Ma- 
ry's, which form the Maumee of lake Erie, 
navigable for small keel boats, — and numerous 



228 peck's guide 

creeks; generally heavily timbered; soil, 
clay, — sandy on the rivers. 

Bartholomew. — Streams; Driftwood, Clif- 
ty, Flat Rock, and Salt Creeks, — all mill 
streams. Surface, level; soil, a rich loam, 
mixed with sand and gravel; the western 
part hilly, with clay soil. Minerals; lime- 
stone, coal, iron ore, red ochre. 

Boon. — Watered by the tributaries of Rac- 
coon and Sugar Creeks. Surface, level, — 
soil rich. 

Carroll. — Streams; Wabash river, Deer, 
Rock, and branches of Wildcat creeks. Con- 
siderable timber, — some prairies, of which 
Deer prairie is the largest and most beautiful. 
Considerable quantities of limestone on the 
surface; a remarkable spring near Delphi, — 
the water reddish. 

Cass. — Streams are Wabash andEel rivers, 
which unite atLogansport, — the head of steam- 
boat navigation of the Wabash, and termina- 
tion of the W. and E. canal. Surface, gene- 
rally level, rolling towards the rivers with 
abrupt bluffs; soil, near the rivers, a mixture 
of loam and sand; at a distance from them, 
flat and clayey. Large proportion, forest land, 
— some prairies. 

Clark. — Silver and Fourteen Mile creeks 
furnish excellent mill sites. Ohio river on 
the south. Surface, rolling and hilly; soil, 
loam, mixed with sand. Minerals; limestone, 
gypsum, water lime, marble, salt, iron ore, 
copperas, alum. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 229 

Clay. — Eel river and tributaries. Surface 
moderately undulating; soil various, chiefly 
clay and loam, and a mixture of sand, in 
places; timber predominates, — some prairies. 

Clinton. — Watered by the South, Middle, 
and Kilmore's Forks of Wildcat creek. Sur- 
face, moderately undulating, or level: Twelve 
Mile prairie extends from S. W. to N. E. 12 
miles, and is three fourths of a mile wide. 
The remainder timbered land. Soil, a rich 
sandy loam, and exceedingly fertile. 

Crawford.' — Waters; the Ohio and Blue 
rivers, — plenty of water power, and excellent 
springs. Surface, hilly and broken; in places, 
tolerably productive ; in others, soil thin and 
rocky. A timbered region, and abundance of 
limestone. 

Daviess. — Streams; Forks of White river, 
with its tributaries. Smother's, Prairie, Veal, 
Aikman's and Sugar creeks. Level bottoms 
on the rivers^ — sometimes inundated; undu- 
lating on the high grounds. Soil on the West 
Fork, sandy; much timber, — an extensive 
tract of sugar tree; some prairies. The 
county destitute of rock near the surface; 
plenty of lime and sandstone in the bed of 
West Fork of White river, at the rapids. 
Plenty of coal. 

Dearborn. — Watered by the Great Miami, 
Whitewater, Laughery, Hogan's and Tan- 
ner's creeks. Surface, hilly and broken, with 
rich, level, bottom lands, on the Miami. Soil, 



230 peck's guide 

one fourth first rate, one fourth second rate, 
— remainder inferior. A timbered region. 

Decatur. — Flat Rock, Clifty, and Sand 
creeks, are all good mill streams. Surface, 
generally level, — some parts undulating; soil, 
loam, with a substratum of clay; well adapt- 
ed to grain — timbered. Minerals; limestone, 
some iron ore and coal. 

Delaware. — Streams; Missisinawa, and 
West Fork of White river; surface tolera- 
bly level; soil, loam, mixed with sand. Mine- 
rals; some limestone, and granite bowlders 
scattered over the surface. 

Dubois. — Streams; East Fork of W^hite 
river, Patoka and Anderson creeks. Surface 
rolling, — some parts hilly and broken, — some 
level tracts; soil rich and sandy loam near 
the streams. Minerals; sand rock and coal. 

Elkhart. — Watered by St. Joseph of lake 
Michigan, Elkhart and tributaries. Surface, 
generally level, — a portion undulating; soil 
various, but generally rich; forest and prairie, 
both wet and dry. 

Fayette. — Watered by the West Fork of 
Whitewater, and a small lake in the north. 
Surface, undulating; soil, on the high ground, 
clayey, and a mixture of sand, — on the bottom 
lands, a rich, sandy loam. Limestone found 
in masses and quarries, 

Floyd. — Watered by the Ohio river. Silver 
creek, and some head branches of Big and 
Little Indian creeks. Surface various, — a 
range of knobs, — east of these knobs, it is 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 231 

gently undulating; soil inferior. Minerals; 
shale, soft sandstone, limestone, freestone, 
iron ore, and some traces of coal, A boiling 
spring, from which is emitted an inflammable 
gas. 

Fountain. — Watered by the Wabash river, 
and Coal and Shawnee creeks, with numerous 
mill sites. Surface, gently undulating; soil, 
a black loam, mixed with sand, and very rich. 
Minerals; coal, and some sandstone. 

Franklin. — Watered by the East and West 
Forks of Whitewater. Surface, on the east- 
ern part level, — western, rolling; soil, in the 
central and northern parts, a black loam, — in 
the south-west, thin and clayey. 

Gibson. — Watered by the Wabash, White, 
and Patoka rivers. Surface, rolling and tim- 
bered; soil, generally a sandy loam, and pro- 
ductive. 

Grant. — Watered by the Missisinewa and 
tributaries. Surface level, — generally heavily 
timbered; soil, clay and loam on the table 
lands, — sandy on the river bottoms. 

Green. — Watered by White andEel rivers, 
and Richland creek; soil, on the rivers a rich 
loam, — on the bluffs, sandy, — east side, hilly, 
— west side, level. White river is navigable. 
Minerals; lime and sandstone, coal, and some 
iron ore. 

Hamilton. — The streams are White river, 
and Cicero, Coal, Stoney, and Fall creeks. 
Generally forest, — some few prairies; soil, in 



232 peck's guide 

places, clay, — more generally, a sandy loam. 
Minerals; lime, and some soft sand rock. 

Hancock. — Watered by Blue river. Sugar 
and Brandywine creeks, with excellent mill 
sites, and well supplied with springs. Sur- 
face, either level or gently undulating; soil, 
a rich loam, mixed with sand, — heavily tim- 
bered. 

Harrison. — Watered by Big and Little In- 
dian, and Buck creeks, and Blue river. Sur- 
face various, — some parts hilly and broken, — 
some parts undulating, — some parts level; 
soil, in the low grounds, a rich loam, — on the 
high grounds, calcareous and gravelly. A 
large tract of '' barrens " in the west. Mine- 
rals; a quarry and several caves of black 
flint, salt licks, limestone. 

Hendricks. — The waters are White Lick, 
and branches of Eel river, with good mill 
sites. Surface, gently rolling, and timbered 
with the varieties of the Wabash country; 
soil, a mixture of clay, loam and sand. 

Henry. — Watered by Blue river, Flat Rock 
and Fall creeks. Surface, in some places, 
broken, — in most parts, level; soil, a mixture 
of sand with loam and clay. Plenty of springs 
and mill sites. Mostly timbered, but several 
tracts of prairie. 

Huntington. — The streams are Salamania, 
Little river, and Wabash. Surface, on the 
rivers, level, — back, gently undulating; soil, 
loam and clay, with a slight mixture of sand. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 233 

Several tracts of prairie, but generally forest 
land. 

Jackson. — Watered by Indian, Driftwood, 
White, Muscatatack, and Gum creeks. Sur- 
face, rolling and in places hilly; soil, clay 
and loam, mixed with sand. In the forks of 
the creeks, sand predominates. On the west 
and north-west, inclined to clay. 

Jefferson. — Watered by the Ohio river, 
Indian, Kentucky and Big creeks. Surface 
various; along the river and creeks, low allu- 
vion; soil, loam mixed with sand. The bot- 
toms are bounded by precipitous bluffs, with 
towering cliffs of limestone. The table lands 
are undulating, and the soil inclined to clay. 
Timber various. Abounds with limestone, 
masses of freestone, and scattered granite 
bowlders. 

Johnson. — Watered on the eastern side by 
Blue river, and Sugar and Young's creeks, — 
on the western side by Indian, Crooked, and 
Stott's creeks. Surface, gently undulating; 
soil, a rich, black, sandy loam; timbered. 
Minerals; masses of freestone, and scattered 
granite bowlders. 

Jennings. — Watered by Graham's Fork, 
and the North Fork of the Muscatatack. Sur- 
face, in some parts level, some parts very hilly ; 
soil, calcareous, rich and productive; timber 
of all varieties; abounds with limestone. 

Knox. — The Wabash on the west side, — 
White river south, — the West Fork of White 
river east, — and Maria and Duchain creeks, 



234 peck's guide 

interior. Surface undulating; soil, sotne what 
various, — a rich loam in places, — sandy in 
other places; — some tracts of prairie, but tim- 
ber predominates. 

LAGRANGE.-~-Watered by Pigeon and Crook- 
ed rivers. Surface, gently rolling; northern 
part extensive prairies; southern portion chief- 
ly forest; soil, loam and sand. 

La Porte. — Watered by the Kankakee, 
Galena, and Trail creek, at the mouth of which 
is Michigan city, and a harbor for lake Michi- 
gan commerce. Surface, gently undulating; 
abounds with large, rich prairies, with groves 
of timber, and lakes of clear water interspers- 
ed; soil, a sandy loam, rich and productive. 

Lawrence. — Watered by Salt, Indian, 
Guthrie's, Beaver, and Leatherwood creeks, 
and excellent springs. Surface, generally 
hilly, — some level lands; — soil, on the water 
courses, sandy, — back from the streams, loam 
and clay. Abounds with limestone. 

Madison.— The West Fork of Wliite river 
is navigable. The other streams are Killbuck, 
Pipe, Lick and Fall cre'eks. Surface, gene- 
rally level, with some broken land near the 
streams; timbered, with a wet prairie, 7 miles 
long and three fourths of a mile wide ; soil, 
sand, mixed with clay and loam,-— productive. 
Minerals; lime and freestone, marble that 
polishes well, and some traces of iron ore. 

Marion.-— West Fork of White river passes 
through it, on which is situated Indianopolis, 
the capital of the State. Fall creek is an ex- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 255 

cellent mill stream. Surface, chiefly level 
forest land; soil, a deep black loam, with a 
mixture of sand. Large granite bowlders are 
scattered over the surface. 

Martin. — The East Fork of White river 
passes through it, and receives Lost river 
from the left, and Indian and Flint creeks from 
the right. Surface, on the east side of White 
river, broken and hilly; soil, clay and loam; 
on the west side, level, or gently undulating, 
with portions of barrens and prairie land; soil, 
clay and loam, mixed with sand. Minerals; 
coal in large quantities, lime, sand and free- 
stone. 

Miami. — The Wabash and Eel rivers pass 
through it, and the Missisinawa comes from 
the east, and enters the Wabash about the 
centre of the county. The Wabash and Erie 
canal passes through it. Surface, gently un- 
dulating and beautiful, — chiefly forest, and 
interspersed with small prairies; soil, the rich- 
est in the State, of loam, clay and sand inter- 
mixed. 

Monroe. — Streams; Salt, Clear, Indian, 
Raccoon, Richland, and Bean-blossom creeks, 
— pure springs. Surface, hilly and undulat- 
ing; soil, second rate. Minerals; limestone 
rock, salt licks, with manufactories of salt. 

Montgomery. — The heads of Shawnee and 
Coal creeks in the north-west, — Sugar creek 
in the centre, — and Big Raccoon on the south- 
eastern part. Surface, gently undulating; 
the northern portion prairie, interspersed with 



236 peck's guide 

groves, with a rich soil of black loam, mixed 
with sand, — the middle and southern portions 
timbered. Excellent quarries of rock in the 
middle, — granite bowlders in the northern 
parts. 

Morgan. — White river, which is navigable. 
The mill streams are White Lick, Sycamore, 
Highland, and Lamb's creeks on the west 
side, and Crooked, Stott's, Clear, and Indian 
creeks on the east side. Surface, generally 
rolling, — some parts hilly; soil, calcareous 
and clayey, — on the bottoms, a rich sandy 
loam. Minerals; limestone, and some iron 
ore. 

Orange. — Streams; Lost river, French 
Lick, and Patoka. Surface, hilly and broken, 
— limestone rock, — springs of water, of which 
Half-moon and French Lick are curiosities. 
On the alluvial bottoms, the soil is loamy, — on 
the hills, calcareous, and inclined to clay. Ex- 
cellent stones for grit, equal to the Turkey oil 
stones, are found in this county. 

Owen. — Watered by the West Fork of 
White river, with its tributaries, Raccoon, 
Indian, Mill, Rattlesnake, and Fish creeks. 
The falls of Eel river furnish the best water 
power in the State. Surface rolling; soil, in 
some places a dark loam, — in others clayey 
and calcareous. Minerals; immense bodies of 
lime rock, and some iron ore. 

Parke. — Watered by the Big and Little 
Raccoon, and Sugar creeks, (with excellent 
mill sites,) all of which enter the Wabash on 



FOR EMI on A NTS. 237 

its western side. Surface, generally level, — 
some beautiful prairies, but mostly forest land; 
soil, a loam mixed with sand and rich. Mine- 
rals; lime and sandstone, coal and iron ore. 

Perry. — Watered by the Ohio river, with 
Anderson's, Bear, Poison, and Oil creeks in- 
terior. Some level land, with a rich, sandy 
loam, on the streams, — all the high lands very 
broken; hilly, with a clayey, sterile soil. 
Minerals; immense bodies of limestone, grind- 
stone quarries, iron ore and coal. 

Pike — Has White river on the north, and 
Patoka creek through the centre. Surface 
all forest land and undulating; soil, eastern 
part clay and sand, — western, a rich, dark 
loam, mixed with sand, — some swampy land. 
Minerals, limestone and coal. 

Posey— In the forks of the Ohio and Wa- 
bash, with Big, Mill, and McFadden's creeks 
interior, and good springs. Surface, rolling, 
and all forest land; soil, a sandy loam, and 
produces well. Minerals; sand, and lime- 
stone and coal. 

Putnam — Has Raccoon creek, and Eel 
river, with abundant water privileges, and fine 
springs. Surface, gently undulating; soil, in 
places calcareous and clayey, — in other places 
a rich loam; limestone. 

Randolph — Water courses, the West Fork 
of White river and Missasinawa and their 
tributaries, which furnish good mill sites. 
Surface, either level or gently undulating; 
soil, a rich loam, — in some places marshy; 
10* 



238 PECK S GUIDE 

a small quantity of limestone, with granite 
bowlders. 

Ripley. — Watered by Laughery and Gra- 
ham's creek. Surface level, forest land; soil 
clay, — in some parts inclines to sand, — with 
limestone abundant. 

Rush. — The streams are Big and Little Blue 
rivers, Big and Little Flat Rock, with excel- 
lent water power. Surface, moderately roll- 
ing, and heavily timbered; soil, loam on clay, 
with a slight mixture of sand. 

ScoTT. — Watered by tributaries of the Mus- 
catatack. Surface rolling, — some flat lands 
inclining to marsh; soil, clay. Minerals; lime- 
stone, iron ore, salt, sulphur, and copperas. 

Shelby. — Watered by Big and Little Blue 
rivers, Brandywine, and Sugar creeks, with 
good mill sites, — all heads of the East Fork of 
White river. Surface, generally level with 
forest land; soil, clay mixed with loam. 

Spencer. — Ohio river, Anderson's, Little 
Pigeon, and Sandy creeks. ^Surface tolerably 
level, and forest land; soil, clay mixed with 
loam. Minerals; coal, and lime and sand 
rock. 

St. Joseph. — St. Joseph's river, Kankakee, 
and Bobango, with some small creeks. Ex- 
tensive marshes on the Kankakee, and near 
the South Bend of the St. Joseph. These 
marshes are of vegetable formation. Surface, 
in some parts level, — in others gently undu- 
lating; soil, a loam, — in some places sand. 
The north-west part chiefly prairies and bar- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 239 

rens, including the large and fertile prairies 
of Portage and Terre Coupe. The north- 
eastern, barrens, — the south-eastern, forest. 
Minerals are granite bovv^lders, and bog iron 
ore. 

Sullivan — Has the Wabash river on its 
western side, and Turman's, Busseron, and 
Turtle creeks interior. Surface rolling, — 
some prairies, but generally forest land, — some 
poor barrens; soil, loam and sand; — lime and 
sand rock and coal. 

Switzerland. — The Ohio east and south, 
— Indian, Plum, Bryant's, Turtle, and Grant's 
creeks interior. Surface various, — bottom 
lands level, and rich, — then a range of pre- 
cipitous bluffs, with cliffs of limestone, — the 
table land rolling with a calcareous and clayey 
soil. At Vevay are extensive vineyards. 

Tippecanoe. — Watered by the Wabash 
river, and Wildcat, Wea, Burnett's, and Mill 
Branch creeks. The Wabash afibrds naviga- 
tion, and the other streams excellent mill sites. 
Surface gently undulating, with extensive level 
tracts, and consists of one half prairie, one 
eighth barrens, and the remainder heavy forest 
land. The prairie soil is a rich, black loam, 
— the barrens cold, wet clay, — the forest a 
very rich loam and sand. 

Union. — Streams; the East Fork of White 
river and its tributaries, Hanna's, Richland, 
and Silver creeks, all of which furnish excel- 
lent mill sites. Surface, moderately rolling; 
soil, a dark loam. 



240 peck's guide 

Vanderburgh. — Watered by the Ohio, and 
Great Pigeon creek. Surface, high, dry, roll- 
ing land, with good timber, and well watered; 
soil, clay and sand, of inferior quality. Min- 
erals; lime and sandstone, salines, and a min- 
eral spring. 

Vermillion. — A long, narrow county, be- 
tween the Wabash river and the State of Illi- 
nois. The streams are Wabash, Big and 
Little Vermillion, and their tributaries. Sur- 
face high, rolling land, with abrupt bluffs near 
the streams; a good proportion of prairie and 
timber; soil, rich, sandy loam, and very pro- 
ductive. Minerals; freestone and limestone, 
and large coal banks. 

Vigo. — The Wabash passes through it — 
navigable. The mill streams are Prairie, 
Honey, Otter, and Sugar creeks, but their 
waters fail in a dry season. Surface level, or 
gently undulating, with forest and prairies; 
soil, rich loam and sand, — first rate. Miner- 
als; gray limestone, freestone, and inex- 
haustible beds of coal. 

Wabash. — The Wabash river, and W. and 
E. canal, pass through it, as does the Missis- 
inawa, Eel, Bluegrass, and Salamania. Sur- 
face, — wide, rich bottoms on the streams, — 
bluffs and ravines adjoining, — table lands fur- 
ther back, either dry and rolling, or flat and 
wet, and abound with willow swamps. Lime- 
stone rock abundant, and many excellent 
springs of pure water. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 



241 



Warren. — The Wabash on the S. E. bor- 
der for thirty miles, and navigated by steam- 
boats; interior streams, Rock, Redwood, and 
Big and Little Pine creeks, all of which afford 
good mill sites. Some pine and cedar timber. 
Surface generally level, with broken land on 
the blufis of creeks; some forest, but the 
largest proportion prairie ; soil, a rich and very 
fertile loam. Minerals; lime and excellent 
freestone for building purposes, — coal, — iron, 
— lead and copper, — with several old "dig- 
gings" and furnaces, where both copper and 
lead ore have been smelted in early times. 

Warrick. — Watered by the Ohio river, 
Big and Little Pigeon, and Cypress. Surface, 
rolling and hilly; soil, a sandy loam on clay. 
Minerals; quarries of freestone, some lime- 
stone, and inexhaustible beds of coal. 

Washington. — Streams; Muscatatack on 
the north. Rush, Twin, Highland, Delany's, 
Elk, Bear, and Sinking creeks, and the heads 
of Blue and Lost rivers, with mill sites. Sur- 
face, diversified from gentle undulations, to 
lofty and precipitous hills; soil, in part, second 
rate, v/ith much of inferior quality. Substra- 
tum of limestone, caves, hollows, and sink 
holes. 

Wayne. — Streams, East and West Forks 
of Whitewater, with excellent water power 
for machinery. Surface, moderately hilly; 
heavy forest land; soil, a rich loam; sub- 
stratum, clay. Minerals; generally, lime- 
stone, and excellent for buildings. 



242 peck's guide 

Form of Government. — This differs very little 
from that of Ohio. The Constitution provides 
that an enumeration be made every five years 
of all free white male inhabitants, above the 
age of twenty-one years; and the representa- 
tion of both houses of the General Assembly 
is apportioned by such enumeration, in such 
ratio that the number of representatives shall 
never be less than 36, nor exceed 100, and 
the number of senators not exceeding one 
half, nor less than one third the number of 
representatives. Every free white male citi- 
zen, twenty-one years of age, who has resided 
in the State one year, is entitled to vote; 
" except such as shall be enlisted in the army 
of the U. S., or their allies." Elections are 
held annually, by ballot, on the first Monday 
in August. Senators, the governor, and lieu- 
tenant governor, hold their offices for three 
years. The judiciary is vested in a Supreme 
Court, in Circuit Courts, Probate Courts, 
and Justices of the peace. The Supreme 
Court consists of three judges, who are ap- 
pointed by the governor, with the advice and 
consent of the senate, for the term of seven 
years, and have appellate jurisdiction. The 
Circuit Courts consist of a presiding judge in 
each judicial circuit, elected by joint ballot of 
both houses of the General Assembly, and 
two associate judges in each county, elected 
by the qualified voters in their respective 
counties, for a like term. The Probate Courts 
consist of one judge for each county, who is 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 243 

elected by the voters, for the same term. Jus- 
tices of the peace are elected in each town- 
ship, for the term of five years, and have 
jurisdiction in criminal cases throughout the 
county, but, in all civil cases, throughout the 
township. 

Fhumces.-^The Indiana Gazetteer, of 1833, 
estimates that the revenue for State purposes 
amounted to about §35,000 annually, and, for 
county purposes, to about half that sum. The 
aggregate receipts for 1835, according to the 
governor's message, of Dec. 1835, amounted 
10^107,714; expenditures for the same time, 
$103,901. 

Sales of canal lands for the same period, 
$175,740. The canal commissioners have 
borrowed $605,257, for canal purposes, on a 
part of which they obtained two per cent, pre- 
mium, and, on another part, as high as seven 
per cent.; and have also borrowed $450,000 
bank capital, for which they received four and 
a half per cent, premium. Three per cent, on 
all sales of U. S. lands within the State, is 
paid by the general government into the State 
treasury, to be expended in making roads. 
The receipts from this source, in 1835, 
amounted to $24,398. Sales and rents of 
saline lands, produced an income of $4,636. 
The proceeds of certain lands, donated by the 
general government towards the construction 
of a road from the Ohio river to lake Michi- 
gan, amounted to $33,030. 



244 



Internal Improvements. — This State has erl* 
tered with great spirit upon a system of inter- 
nal improvements. It consists of canalling, 
improving river navigation, rail-roads, and 
common turnpike roads. 

Wabash and Erie Canal. — This work will 
extend from La Fayette, on the Wabash riv- 
er, up the valley of that stream, to the Mau- 
mee and to the boundary of Ohio; distance, 
105 miles. The cost of construction has been 
estimated at ^1,081,970, and lands to the 
amount of 355,200 acres, have been appropri- 
ated by the general government, the proceeds 
of which will be sufficient to complete the ca- 
nal to Fort Wayne. The middle division, 32 
miles, was completed in July, 1835, and the 
remainder is in active progress. Its whole 
distance, through a part of Ohio to Maumee 
bay, at the west end of lake Erie, will be 187 
miles. 

The Whitewater Canal, 76 miles in length, 
along the western branch of Whitewater, is 
intended to pass through Connorsville, Brook- 
ville, Somerset, and other towns, toLawrence- 
burgh, on the Ohio river. 

Provision is made to improve the navigation 
of the Wabash river, in conjunction with Illi- 
nois, where it constitutes the boundary line, 
and, by this State alone, further up. 

Rail-Roads. — 'From Evansville, on the Ohio, 
to La Fayette on the Wabash, 175 miles; 
from La Fayette to Michigan city, 90 miles; 
forming a line from the Ohio river to lake 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 245 

Michigan, 265 miles in length: — From Madi- 
son, on the Ohio, to Indianopolis, the seat of 
government, 85 miles; and several others 
were projected two years since. But at the 
session of the legislature of 1835-6, a bill was 
passed to borrow, in such instalments as 
should be needed, ten mi//tows of dollars ; and a 
system of internal improvements, including 
canals, rail-roads, and the improvement of 
river navigation, was marked out. In a few 
years, this State will be prominent in this spe- 
cies of enterprise. 

Synopsis of Canals surveyed by order of the In- 
diana Legislature during the Year 1835. 

La Fayette and Terre Haute division of 
the Wabash and Erie canal. Length, 90 miles; 
total cost, ^1,067,914 70; per mile, $^11,865 
79. 

Central canal, north of Indianopolis. Total 
length, from Indianopolis via Andersontown, 
Pipe creek summit to the Wabash and Erie 
canal at Wabash town, 103 miles 34 chains; 
total cost, $1,992,224 54; per mile, $17,106 
51. Length, via Pipe creek summit to Peru, 
near the mouth of the Missisinawa, 114 miles 
46 chains; total cost, $1,897,797 19; per 
mile, $14,871 85. Length, via Pipe creek 
summit (including lateral canal toMuncietown) 
to Wabash tov^n, 124 miles 51 chains; total 
cost, $2,103,153 61; per mile, $15,873 83. 
Length, via Pipe creek summit (including 
lateral canal to Muncietown) to Peru, 185 
11 



246 peck's guide 

miles 63 chains; total cost, $^,008,726 26; 
per mile, ^14,793 12. Total length, from 
Indianopolis via Muncietown to the Wabash 
and Erie canal at Peru, 131 miles 41 chains; 
total cost, §2,058,929 41; per mile, $14,549 
71. 

Central canal, south of Indianopolis. To- 
tal length, from Indianopolis to Evansville, 
188 miles; total cost, $2,642,285 92; per 
mile, $14,054 71. Route down the valley of 
Main Pigeon. Length, 194 miles; total cost, 
$2,400,957 70; per mile, $12,376 02. 

Terre Haute and Eel river canal, which 
forms a connexion between the Wabash and 
Erie canal and W^hite river or Central canal. 
Total length, 40i miles; total cost, $629,631 
65; which, including a feeder, is $13,540 46 
per mile. 

Wabash and Erie canal, eastern division, 
[east of Fort Wayne]. Upper line: Length, 
19 miles 30 chains; total cost, $154,113 13; 
per mile, $7,952 17. — Lower line: Total 
length, 20 miles 76^ chains; total cost, 
$254,817 52; per mile, $11,159 04. 

The following are the works provided for 
in the Bill, and the sums appropriated for 
them: 



fOR EMIGHANTS. 247 

1st. The White Water Canal, including a 
lateral canal or rail-road, to connect said canal 
with the Central or White river 
canal, gl ,400,000 

2d. Central or White river Canal, 3,500,000 

3d. Extension of the Wabash and 
Erie Canal, 1,300,000 

4th. Madison and La Fayette Rail- 
road, 1 ,300,000 

5th. A M'Adamized turnpike road 
from New Albany to Vincennes,. .. 1,150,000 

6th. Turnpike or rail-road from 
New Albany to Crawfordsville, 1 ,300,000 

7th. Removing obstructions in the 

Wabash, 50,000 

$10,000,000 

8th. The Bill gives the credit of the State 
to the Lawrenceburgh and IndianopoHs Rail- 
road Company, for the sum of §500,000. 

Mannfadures. — Besides the household man- 
ufacture of cotton and flannels, common to 
the western people, at Vincennes, and proba- 
bly other towns, machinery is employed in 
several estal)lishments. It will be seen from 
the sketch of each county, already given, that 
in most parts of the State there is a supply of 
water power for manufacturing purposes. 
Both water and steam power, saw and grist 
mills, are already in operation in various parts 
of the State. 

Education. — The same provision of one sec- 
tion of land in each township, or a thirty-sixth 



243 peck's guide 

part of the public lands, has been made for 
the encouragement of common schools, as 
in other Western States. A law has been 
enacted providing for common schools, and 
the public mind has become measurably 
awakened to the subject of education. Some 
most extravagant and exaggerated state- 
ments have been made relative to an incredi- 
ble number of children in this State, "who 
have no means of education." As in all new 
countries, the first class of emigrants, having 
to provide for their more immediate wants, 
have not done so much as is desirable to pro- 
mote common school education; but we have 
no idea they will slumber on that subject, 
while they are wide awake to the physical 
wants and resources of the country. Acade- 
mies have been established in several coun- 
ties, and a college at Bloomington, from the en- 
couragement of State funds, and other insti- 
tutions are rising up, of which the Hanover 
Institution near the Ohio river, and Wabash 
College at Crawfordsville, promise to be con- 
spicuous. 

Hislory. — This country was first explored by 
adventurers from Canada, with a view to the 
Indian trade, towards the close of the seven- 
teenth century; and the place where Vin- 
cennes now stands is said to have been thus 
early occupied as a trading post. A company 
of French from Canada, made a settlement 
here in 1735. The country, in common with 
the Western Valley, was claimed by France, 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 249 

until it was ceded to Great Britain, at the 
treaty of peace in 1763, under whose jurisdic- 
tion it remained, until subdued by the Ameri- 
can arms under the intrepid Gen. G. R. Clark, 
and his gallant band, in 1779. A territorial 
government was organized by Congress in 
1787, including all the country north-west of 
the river Ohio, which was then called the 
North-western Territory. In 1802, when the 
State of Ohio was organized, all that part of 
the Territory lying west of a line due north 
from the mouth of the Great Miami, was or- 
ganized into the Territory of Indiana, — which 
was divided, and from which Illinois Territory 
was formed in 1809. In June, 1816, a con- 
stitution was adopted, and at the ensuing ses- 
sion of Congress, Indiana was made a State. 

General Hemarks. — The importance of In- 
diana, as a desirable State for the attention of 
the emigrant to the West, has been too much 
overlooked. Though not possessing quite 
equal advantages with Illinois, especially in 
the quality and amount of prairie soil, it is far 
superior to Ohio, and fully equal, — nay, in 
our estimation, rather superior to Michigan. 
Almost every part is easy of access, and in a 
very few years the liberal system of internal 
improvements, adopted and in progress, will 
make almost every county accessible to public 
conveyances, and furnish abundant facilities 
to market. 

Along the wide, alluvion bottoms of the 
streams, and amidst a rank growth of vegeta- 



250 peck's guide 

tion, there is usually more or less autumnal 
fever, yet, in general, there is very little dif- 
ference in any of the Western States as to 
prospects of health. 

Mechanics, school teachers, and laborers of 
every description, are much wanted in this 
State, as they are in all the States further 
west; and all may provide abundantly and 
easily, all the necessaries of living for a fami- 
ly, if they will use industry, economy and 
sobriety. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 251 



CHAPTER XI. 

ILLINOIS. 
Situation, Boundaries, and Extent. 

The State of Illinois is situated between 
37° and 42°, 30' N. latitude; and between 10° 
25', and 14° 30' W. longitude from Washing- 
ton city. It is bounded on the north by Wis- 
consin Territory, north-east by lake Michigan, 
east by Indiana, south-east and south by Ken- 
tucky, and west by the State and Territory of 
Missouri. Its extreme length is 380 miles; 
and its extreme width, 220 miles; its aver- 
age width, 150 miles. The area of the 
whole State, including a small portion of 
lake Michigan within its boundaries, is 59,300 
square miles. 

The water area of the State is about 3,750 
square miles. With this, deduct 5,550 square 
miles for irreclaimable wastes, and there re- 
mains 50,000 square miles, or 32 millions of 
acres of arable land in Illinois, — a nnich 
greater quantity than is found in any other 
State, In this estimate, inundated lands, sub- 



252 peck's guide 

merged by high waters, but which may be re- 
claimed at a moderate expense, is included. 

Face of the Country, and qualities of Soil. — 
The general surface is level, or moderately 
undulating; the northern and southern portions 
are broken, and somewhat hilly, but no por- 
tion of the State is traversed with ranges of 
hills or mountains. At the verge of the allu- 
vial soil on the margins of rivers, there are 
ranges of "bluffs" intersected with ravines. 
The bluffs are usually from fifty to one hun- 
dred and fifty feet high, where an extended 
surface of table land commences, covered with 
prairies and forests of various shapes and 
sizes. 

When examined minutely, there are several 
varieties in the surface of this State, which 
will be briefly specified and described. 

1. Inundated Land.^. I apply this term to 
all those portions, which, for some part of the 
year, are under water. These include por- 
tions of the river bottoms, and portions of the 
interior of large prairies, with the lakes and 
ponds which, for half the year or more, are 
without water. The term "bottom" is used 
throughout the West, to denote the alluvial 
soil on the margin of rivers, usually chilled 
"intervales," in New En<Tland. Portions of 
this description of land arc flowed for a longer 
or shorter period, when the rivers arc full. 
Probably one eighth of the bottom lands are 
of this description; for, though the water may 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 253 

not stand for any length of time, it wholly pre- 
vents settlement and cultivation, though it 
does not interrupt the growth of timber and 
vegetation. These tracts are on the bottoms 
of the Wabash, Ohio, Mississippi, Illinois, and 
all the interior rivers. 

When the rivers rise above their ordinary 
height, the waters of the smaller streams, 
which are backed up by the freshets of the 
former, break over their banks, and cover all 
the low grounds. Here they stand for a few 
days, or for many weeks, especially towards 
the bluffs; for it is a striking fact in the geol- 
ogy of the western country, that all the river 
bottoms are higher on the margins of the 
streams than at some distance back. When- 
ever increase of population shall create a de- 
mand for this species of soil, the most of it 
can be reclaimed at comparatively small ex- 
pense. Its fertility will be inexhaustible, and 
if the waters from the rivers could be shut 
out by dykes or levees, the soil would be per- 
fectly dry. Most of the small lakes on the 
American bottom disappear in the summer, 
and leave a deposit of vegetable matter under- 
going decomposition, or a luxuriant coat of 
weeds and grass. 

As our prairies mostly lie between the 
streams that drain the country, the interior of 
the large ones are usually level. Here are 
formed ponds and lakes after the winter and 
spring rains, which remain to be drawn off by 
evaporation, or absorbed by an adhesive soil. 



254 peck's guide 

Hence the middle of our large, level prairies 
are wet, and for several weeks portions of 
them are covered with water. To remedy 
this inconvenience completely, and render all 
this portion of soil dry and productive, only . 
requires a ditch or drain of two or three feet 
deep to be cut into the nearest ravine. In many 
instances, a single furrow with the plough, 
would drain many acres. At present, this 
species of inundated land offers no inconven- 
ience to the people, except in the production 
of miasm, and even that, perhaps, becomes 
too much diluted with the atmosphere to pro- 
duce mischief before it reaches the settle- 
ments on the borders of the prairie. Hence 
the inference is correct, that our inundated 
lands present fewer obstacles to the settle- 
ment and growth of the country, and can be 
reclaimed at much less expense, than the 
swamps and salt marshes of the Atlantic 
States. 

2. River Bolloms or Mluinon. The surface 
of our alluvial bottoms is not entirely level. 
In some places it resembles alternate waves 
of the ocean, and looks as though the wa- 
ters had left their deposit in ridges, and re- 
tired. 

The portion of bottom land capable of pres- 
ent cultivation, and on which the waters never 
stand, if, at an extreme freshet, it is covered, 
is a soil of exhaustless fertility; a soil that for 
ages past has been gradually deposited by the 
annual floods. Its average depth on the 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 255 

American bottom, is from twenty to twenty- 
five feet. Logs of wood, and other indica- 
tions, are found at that depth. The soil dug 
from wells on these bottoms, produces luxuri- 
antly the first year. 

The most extensive and fertile tract, of this 
description of soil, in this State, is the Ameri- 
can Bottom, a name it received when it consti- 
tuted the western boundary of the United 
States, and which it has retained ever since. 
It commences at the mouth of the Kaskaskia 
river, five miles below the town of Kaskaskia, 
and extends northwardly along the Mississippi 
to the bluffs at Alton, a distance of ninety 
miles. Its average width is five miles, and 
contains about 450 square miles, or 288,000 
acres. Opposite St. Louis, in St. Clair coun- 
ty, the bluffs are seven miles from the river, 
and filled with inexhaustible beds of coal. 
The soil of this bottom is an argillaceous or a 
silicious loam, according as clay or sand 
happens to predominate in its formation. 

On the margin of the river, and of some of 
its lakes, is a strip of heavy timber, with a 
thick undergrowth, which extends from half a 
mile to two miles in width; but from thence 
to the bluffs, it is principally prairie. It is 
interspersed with sloughs, lakes, and ponds, 
the most of which become dry in autumn. 

The soil of the American bottom is inex- 
haustibly rich. About the French towns it 
has been cultivated, and produced corn in 
succession for more than a century, without 



256 peck's guide 

exhausting its fertilizing powers. The only 
objection that can be offered to this tract is 
its unhealthy character. This, however, has 
diminished considerably within eight or ten 
years. The geological feature noticed in the 
last article — that all our bottoms are higher 
on the margin of the stream, than towards the 
bluffs, explains the cause why so much stand- 
ing water is on the bottom land, which, during 
the summer, stagnates and throws off noxious 
effluvia. These lakes are usually full of veg- 
etable matter undergoing decomposition, and 
which produces large quantities of miasm. 
Some of the lakes are clear and of a sandy 
bottom, but the most are of a different char- 
acter. The French settled near a lake or a 
river, apparently in the most unhealthy places, 
and yet their constitutions are little affected, 
and they usually enjoy good health, though 
dwarfish and shrivelled in their form and fea- 
tures. 

"The villages of Kaskaskia, Prairie du R-o- 
cher, and Cahokia, were built up by their in- 
dustry in places where Americans would have 
perished. Cultivation has, no doubt, render- 
ed this tract more salubrious than formerly; 
and an increase of it, together with the con- 
struction of drains and canals, will make it 
one of the most eligible in the States. The 
old inhabitants advise the emigrants not to 
plant corn in the immediate vicinity of their 
dwellings, as its rich and massive foliage pre- 



rOR EMIGRANTS. 257 

vents the sun from dispelling the deleterious 
vapors."* 

These lakes and ponds could be drained at 
a small expense, and the soil would be sus- 
ceptible of cultivation. The early settlements 
of the Americans were either on this bottom, 
or the contiguous bluffs. 

Besides the American bottom, there are 
'Others that resemble it in its general charac- 
ter, but not in extent. In Union county, there 
is an extensive bottom on the borders of the 
Mississippi. Above the mouth of the Illinois, 
and along the borders of the counties of Cal- 
houn, Pike, and Adams, there are a series of 
bottoms, with much good and elevated land; 
but the inundated grounds around, present 
objections to a dense population at present. 

The bottoms of Illinois, where not inun- 
dated, are equal in fertility, and the soil is 
less adhesive than most parts of the American 
bottom. This is likewise the character of the 
bottoms in the northern parts of the State. 

The bottoms of the Kaskaskia are generally 
covered with a heavy growth of timber, and 
in many places inundated when the river is at 
its highest floods. 

The extensive prairies adjoining, will create 
a demand for all this timber. The bottom 
lands on the Wabash are of various qualities. 
Near the mouth, much of it is inundated. 
Higher up it overflows in high freshets. 

* Beck. 



258 



These bottoms, especially the Americaiij 
are the best regions in the United States foi* 
raising stock, particularly horses, cattle, and 
swine. Seventy-five bushels of corn to the 
acre is an ordinary crop. The roots and 
worms of the soil, the acorns and other fruits 
from the trees, and the fish of the lakes, ac- 
celerate the growth of swine. Horses and 
cattle find exhaustless supplies of grass in the 
prairies; and pea vines, buffalo grass, wild 
oats, and other herbage in the timber, for 
summer range ; and often throughout most of 
the winter. In all the rush bottoms, they 
fatten during the severe weather on rushes. 
The bottom soil is not so well adapted to the 
production of small grain, as of maize or In- 
dian corn, on account of its rank growth, and 
being more subject to blast, or fall down be- 
fore harvest, than on the uplands. 

3. Prairies. Much the largest proportion 
is undulating, dry, and extremely fertile. 
Other portions are level, and the soil in some 
cases proves to be wet; — the water, not run- 
ning off freely, is left to be absorbed by the 
soil, or evaporated by the sun. Crawfish 
throv/ up their hillocks in this soil, and the 
farmer who cultivates it, will find his labors 
impeded by the water. 

In the southern part, that is, south of the 
National road leading from Terre Haute to the 
Mississippi, the prairies are comparatively 
small, varying in size from those of several 
miles in width, to those which contain only a 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 250 

few acres. As we go northward, they widen 
and extend on the more elevated ground be- 
tween the water courses to a vast distance, 
and are frequently from six to twelve miles in 
width. Their borders are by no means uni- 
form. Long points of timber project into the 
prairies, and line the banks of the streams, 
and points of prairie project into the timber 
between these streams. In many instances 
are copses and groves of timber, from one 
hundred to two thousand acres, in the midst 
of prairies, like islands in the ocean. This is 
a common feature in the country between the 
vSangamon river and lake Michigan, and in 
the northern parts of the State. The lead 
mine region, both in this State and the Wis- 
consin territory, abounds with these groves. 

The origin of these prairies has caused 
much speculation. We might as well dispute 
about the origin of forests, upon the assump- 
tion that the natural covering of the earth was 
grass. Probably one half of the earth's sur- 
face, in a state of nature, was prairies or 
barrens. Much of it, like our western prai- 
ries, was covered with a luxuriant coat of 
grass and herbage. The steppes of Tartary, 
the pampas of South America, the savannas of 
the Southern, and the prairies of the Western 
States, designate similar tracts of country. 
Mesopotamia, Syria, and Judea had their an- 
cient prairies, on which the patriarchs fed 
their flocks. Missionaries in Burmah, and 
travellers in the interior of Africa, mention 



260 



the same description of country. Where the 
tough sward of the prairie is once formed, 
timlDcr will not take root. Destroy this by 
the plough, or by any other method, and it is 
soon converted into forest land. There are 
large tracts of country in the older settlements, 
where, thirty or forty years since, the farmers 
mowed their hay, that are now covered with 
a forest of young timber of rapid growth. 

The fire annually sweeps over the prairies, 
destroying the grass and herbage, blackening 
the surface, and leaving a deposit of ashes to 
enrich the soil. 

4. Barrens. This term, in the western dia- 
lect, does not indicate poor land, but a species 
of surface of a mixed character, uniting forest 
and prairie. 

The timber is generally scattering, of a 
rough and stunted appearance, interspersed 
with patches of hazle and brushwood, and 
where the contest between the lire and timber 
is kept up, each striving for the mastery. 

In the early settlements of Kentucky, much 
of the country below and south oi' Green 
river presented a dwarfish and stunted growth 
of timber, scattered over the surface, or col- 
lected in clumps, with hazle and shrubbery 
intermixed. This appearance led the first 
explorers to the inference that the soil itself 
must necessarily be poor, to produce so scanty 
a growth of timber, and they gave the name 
of barrens to the whole tract of country. Long 
since, it has been ascertained that this descrip- 



tOR EMIGRANTS. 261 

lion of land is amongst the most productive 
soil in the State. The term barren has since 
received a very extensive application through- 
out the West. Like all other tracts of coun- 
try^ the barrens present a considerable diver- 
sity of soil. In general, however, the surface 
is more uneven or rolling than the prairies, 
and sooner degenerates into ravines and sink- 
holes. Wherever timber barely sufficient for 
present purposes can be found, a person need 
not hesitate to settle in the barrens. These 
tracts are almost invariably healthy; they pos- 
sess a greater abundance of pure springs of 
water, and the soil is better adapted for all 
kinds of produce-, and all descriptions of sea- 
sons, wet and dry, than the deeper and richer 
mould of the bottoms and prairies. 

When the fires are stopped, these barrens 
produce timber, at a rate of which no northern 
emigrant can have any just conception. 
Dwarfish shrubs and small trees of oak and 
hickory are scattered over the surface, where 
for years they have contended with the fires 
for a precarious existence, \vhile a mass of 
roots, sufficient for the support of large trees, 
have accumulated in the earth. As soon as they 
are protected from the ravages of the annual 
fires, the more thrifty sprouts shoot forth, and 
in ten years are large enough for corn cribs 
and stables. 

As the fires on the prairies become stopped 
by the surrounding settlements, and the wild 
grass is eat^n out and trodden down by the 



262 peck's guide 

stocky tliej begin to assume the character of 
barrens; first, hazle and other shrubs, and 
finally, a thicket of young timber, covers the 
surface. 

5. Forest, or timbered Land. In general, 
Illinois is abundantly supplied with timber, 
and were it equally distributed through the 
State, there would be no part in want. The 
apparent scarcity of timber where the prairie 
predominates, is not so great an obstacle to 
the settlement of the country as has been sup- 
posed. For many of the purposes to which 
timber is applied, substitutes are found. The 
rapidity with which the young growth pushes 
itself forward, without a single effort on the 
part of man to accelerate it, and the readiness 
with which the prairie becomes converted into 
thickets, and then into a forest of young tim- 
ber, shows that, in another generation, timber 
will not be wanting in any part of Illinois. 

The kinds of timber most abundant are 
oaks of various species, black and white wal- 
nut, ash of several kinds, elm, sugar maple, 
honey locust, hackberry, linden, hickory, cot- 
ton wood, pecaun, mulberry, buckeye, syca- 
more, wild cherry, box elder, sassafras, and 
persimmon. In the southern and eastern parts 
of the State are yellow poplar, and beech; 
near the Ohio are cypress, and in several 
counties are clumps of yellow pine and cedar. 
On the Calamick, near the south end of lake 
Michigan, is a small forest of white pine. The 
undergrowth are redbud, pawpaw, sumach, 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 263 

plum, crab apple, grape vines, dogwood, spice 
bush, green brier, hazle, &c. 

The alluvial soil of the rivers produces cot- 
ton wood and sycamore timber of amazing- 
size. 

For ordinary purposes there is now timber 
enough in most parts of the State, to say 
nothing about the artificial production of tim- 
ber, which may be effected with little trouble 
and expense. The black locust, a native of 
Ohio and Kentucky, may be raised from the 
seed, with less labor than a nursery of apple 
trees. It is of rapid growth, and, as a valua- 
ble and lasting timber, claims the attention of 
our farmers. It forms one of the cleanliest 
and most beautiful shades, and when in blos- 
som gives a rich prospect, and sends abroad 
a delicious fragrance. 

6. Kiiohsj Bluffs, Ravines, and Sinl-hoks. 
Under these heads are included tracts of un- 
even country found in various parts of the 
State. 

Knobs are ridges of flint limestone, inter- 
mingled and covered with earth, and elevated 
one or two hundred feet above the common 
surface. This species of land is of little value 
for cultivation, and usually has a sprinkling of 
dwarfish, stunted timber, like the barrens. 

The steep hills and natural mounds that 
border the alluvions have obtained the name 
of bluffs. Some are in long, parallel ridges, 
others are in the form of cones and pyramids. 
In some places precipices of limestone rock, 



264 peck's guide 

from fifty to one or two hundred feet high, 
form these bluffs. 

Ravines are formed amongst the bluffs, and 
often near the borders of prairies, which lead 
down to the streams. 

Sink-holes are circular depressions in the 
surface, like a basin. They are of various 
sizes, .from ten to fifty feet deep, and from ten 
to one or two hundred yards in circumference. 
Frequently they contain an outlet for the water 
received by the rains. Their existence shows 
that the substratum is secondary limestone, 
abounding with subterraneous cavities. 

There are but few tracts of stony ground in 
the State; that is, where loose stones are 
scattered over the surface, and imbedded in 
the soil. Towards the northern part of the 
State, tracts of stony ground exist. Quarries 
of stone exist in the bluffs, and in the banks 
of the streams and ravines throughout the 
State. 

The soil is porous, easy to cultivate, and 
exceedingly productive. A strong team is re- 
quired to break up the prairies, on account of 
the firm, grassy sward which covers them. 
But when subdued, they become fine, arable 
lands. 

Rivers, Sfc. — This State is surrounded and 
intersected by navigable streams. The Mis- 
sissippi, Ohio and Wabash rivers are on three 
sides, — the Illinois, Kaskaskia, Sangamon, 
Muddy, and many smaller streams are entirely 
within its borders, — and the Kankakee, Fox, 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 265 

Rock, and Vermillion of the Wabash, run 
part of their course within this State. The 
Mississippi meanders its western border for 
700 miles. Its principal tributaries within 
Illinois, are Rock, Illinois, Kaskaskia, and 
Muddy rivers. The Illinois river commences 
at the junction of the Kankakee, which origi- 
nates near the South Bend in Indiana, and 
the DesPlaines, which rises in the Wisconsin 
Territory. From their junction, the Illinois 
runs nearly a west course, (receiving Fox 
river at Ottawa, and Vermillion near the foot 
of the rapids,) to Hennepin, where it curves 
to the south and then to the south-west, re- 
ceiving a number of tributaries, the largest of 
which are Spoon river from the right and San- 
gamon from the left, till it reaches Naples. 
Here it bends gradually to the south, and 
continues that course till within six miles of 
the Mississippi, when it curves to the south- 
east, and finally, to nearly an east course. 
Its length, (without reckoning the windings of 
the channel in navigation,) is about 260 miles, 
and is navigable for steamboats at a moderate 
stage of water to the foot of the rapids. The 
large streams on the eastern side of the State 
are Iroquois, a tributary to the Kankakee, 
Vermillion of the Wabash, which enters that 
river in Indiana, Embarras, that has its source 
near that of the Kaskaskia, runs south-easterly, 
and enters the Wabash 9 miles below Vin- 
cennes, and Little Wabash near its mouth. 
Along the Ohio, the only streams deserving 



'^GG peck's guide 

note are the Saline and Bay creeks, and Cash 
river, the last of which enters the Ohio six 
miles above its confluence with the Missis- 
sippi. 

Productions. — These are naturally classed 
into mineral, animal and vegetable. 

Minerals. The northern portion of Illinois 
is inexhaustibly rich in mineral productions, 
while coal, secondary limestone, and sand- 
stone, are found in every part. 

Iron ore has been found in the southern 
parts of the State, and is said to exist in con- 
siderable quantities in the northern parts. 

Native copper, in small quantities, has been 
found on Muddy river, in Jackson county, 
and back of Harrisonville, in the bluffs of 
Monroe county. Crystallized gypsum has 
been found in small quantities in St. Clair 
county. Quartz crystals exist in Gallatin 
county. 

Silver is supposed to exist in St. Clair 
county, two miles from Rock Spring, from 
whence Silver creek derives its name. In 
early times, a shaft was sunk here, by the 
French, and tradition tells of large quantities 
of the precious metals being obtained. 

In the southern part of the State, several 
sections of land have been reserved from sale, 
on account of the silver ore they are supposed 
to contain. 

Lead is found in vast quantities in the 
northern part of Illinois, and the adjacent 
territory. Here are the richest lead mines 



FOR E3IIGRANTS. 267 

hitherto discovered on the globe. This por- 
tion of country lies principally north of Rock 
river and south of the Wisconsin. Dubuque's, 
and other rich mines, are west of the Missis- 
sippi. 

Native copper, in large quantities, exists in 
this region, especially at the mouth of Plum 
creek, and on the Peek-a-ton-o-kee, a branch 
of Rock river. 

The following is a list of the principal dig- 
gings in that portion of the lead mine region 
that lies between Rock river and the Wiscon- 
sin, embracing portions of Illinois State, and 
Wisconsin Territory. Some of these dig- 
gings are, probably, relinquished, and many 
new ones commenced. 

Apple Creek, Plattsville, 

Galena and vicinity, Cassville and vicinity, 

Cave Diggings, Madden's, 

Buncombe, Mineral Point, 

Natchez, Dodgeville, 

Hardscrabble, Worke's Diggings, 

New Diggings, Brisbo's, 

Gratiot's Grove, Blue Mounds, 

Spulburg, Prairie Springs, 

W. S. Hamilton's, Hammett& Campbell's, 

Cottle's, Morrison's, 
McNutt's, and many others. 

Menomonee Creek, 

Amount of Lead Manufactured. For many 
years the Indians, and some of the French 
hunters and traders, had been accustomed to 



dig lead in these regions. They never pehe« 
trated much below the surface, but obtained 
considerable quantities of the ore which they 
sold to the traders. 

In 1823, the late Col. James Johnson, of 
Great Crossings, Ky., and brother to the Hon. 
R. M. Johnson, obtained a lease of the United 
States government, and made arrangements 
to prosecute the business of smelting, with 
considerable force, which he did the following 
season. This attracted the attention of enter- 
prising men in Illinois, Missouri, and other 
States. Some went on in 1826, more followed 
in 1827, and in 1828 the country was almost 
literally filled with miners, smelters, mer- 
chants, speculators, gamblers, and every de- 
scription of character. Intelligence, enter- 
prise, and virtue, were thrown in the midst of 
dissipation, gaming,, and every species of vice. 
Such was the crowd of adventurers in 1829, 
to this hitherto almost unknown and desolate 
region, that the lead business was greatly 
overdone, and the market for awhile nearly 
destroyed. Fortunes were made almost upon 
a turn of the spade, and lost with equal facili- 
ty. The business has revived and is profita- 
ble. Exhaustless quantities of mineral exist 
here, over a tract of country two hundred 
miles in extent. 

The following table shows the amount of 
lead made annually at these diggings, from 
1821, to Sept. 30, 1835: 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 269 



^bs. of lead made from I8I: 


51, to Sept 


1823, 


335,130 


do. for the year ending 


Sept. 30, 


1824, 


175,220 


do. do. 


do. 


1825, 


664,530 


do. do. 


do. 


1826, 


958,842 


do. do. 


do. 


1827, 


5,182,180 


do. do. 


do. 


1828, 


11,105,810 


do. do. 


do. 


1829, 


13,344,150 


do. do. 


do. 


1830, 


8,323,998 


do. do. 


do. 


1831, 


6,381,900 


do. do. 


do. 


1832, 


4,281,876 


do. do. 


do. 


1833, 


7,941,792 


do. do. 


do. 


1834, 


7,971,579 


do. do. 


do. 
Total, 


1835, 


3,754,290 




70,420,357 



The rent accruing to government for the 
same period, is a fraction short of six millions 
of pounds. The government formerly receiv- 
ed 10 per cent, in lead for rent. Now it is 6 
per cent. 

A part of the mineral land in the Wisconsin 
Territory has been surveyed and brought into 
market, which will add greatly to the stability 
and prosperity of the mining business. 

Coal. Bituminous coal abounds in Illinois. 
It may be seen, frequently, in the ravines 
and gullies, and in the points of bluffs. Ex- 
haustless beds of this article exist in the bluffs 
of St. Clair county, bordering on the Ameri- 
can bottom, of which large quantities are 
transported to St. Louis, for fuel. There is 
scarce a county in the State, but what can fur- 
nish coal, in reasonable quantities. Large beds 
are said to exist, near the Vermillion of the 
12 



270 peck's guide 

Illinois, and in the vicinity of the rapids of 
the latter. 

Agatized Wood. A petrified tree, of black 
walnut, was found in the bed of the river Des 
Plaines, about forty rods above its junction 
with the Kankakee, imbedded in a horizontal 
position, in a stratum of sandstone. There is 
fifty-one and a half feet of the trunk visible, — 
eighteen inches in diameter at its smallest 
end, and probably three feet at the other end. 

Muriate of Soda, or common salt. This is 
found in various parts of the State, held in 
solution in the springs. The manufacture of 
salt by boiling and evaporation is carried on 
in Gallatin county, twelve miles west-north- 
west from Shawneetown; in Jackson county, 
near Brownsville; and in Vermillion county, 
near Danville. The springs and land are 
owned by the State, and the works leased. 

A coarse freestone, much used in building, 
is dug from quarries near Alton, on the Mis- 
sissippi, where large bodies exist. 

Scattered over the surface of our prairies, 
are large masses of rock, of granitic forma- 
tion, roundish in form, usually called by the 
people ^^ lost rocks." They will weigh from 
one thousand to ten or twelve thousand pounds, 
and are entirely detached, and frequently are 
found several miles distant from any quarry. 
Nor has there ever been a quarry of granite 
discovered in the State. These stones are 
denominated bowlders in mineralogy. They 
usually lie on the surface, or are partially im- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. STl 

bedded in the soil of our prairies, which is 
unquestionably of diluvial formation. How 
they came here is a question of difficult solu- 
tion. 

Medicinal Waters, are found in different 
parts of the State. These are chiefly sulphur 
springs and chalybeate waters. There is said 
to be one well in the southern part of the 
State strongly impregnated with the sulphate 
of magnesia, or Epsom salts, from which con- 
siderable quantities have been made for sale, 
by simply evaporating the water, in a kettle, 
over a common fire. 

There are several sulphur springs in Jef- 
ferson county, to which persons resort for 
health. 

Vegetable Productions. The principal trees 
and shrubs of Illinois have been noticed under 
the head of ^^ Forest or timbered land.^^ Of 
oaks there are several species, as overcup, 
burr oak, swamp or water oak, white oak, red 
or Spanish oak, post oak, and black oak of 
several varieties, with the black jack, a dwarf- 
ish, gnarled looking tree, excellent for fuel, 
but good for nothing else. 

The black walnut is much used for building 
materials and cabinet work, and sustains a 
fine polish. 

In most parts of the State, grape vines, in- 
digenous to the country, are abundant, which 
yield grapes that might advantageously be 
made into excellent wine. Foreign vines are 
susceptible of easy cultivation. These are 



272 ?ECK^s Gvitft. 

cultivated to a considerable extent at Vevay, 
Switzerland county, Indiana, and at New Har- 
mony on the Wabash. The indigenous vines 
are prolific, and produce excellent fruit. They 
are found in every variety of soil; interwoven 
in every thicket in the prairies and barrens; 
and climbing to the tops of the very highest 
trees on the bottoms. The French in early 
times, made so much wine as to export some 
to France ; upon which the proper authorities 
prohibited the introduction of wine from Illi- 
nois, lest it might injure the sale of that staple 
article of the kingdom. I think the act was 
passed by the board of trade, in 1774. 

The editor of the Illinois Magazine remarks, 
*' We know one gentleman who made twenty- 
seven barrels of wine in a single season, from 
the grapes gathered with but little labor, in 
his immediate neighborhood." 

The wild plum is found in every part of the 
State ; but in most instances the fruit is too 
sour for use, unless for preserves. Crab 
apples are equally prolific, and make fine pre- 
serves with about double their bulk of sugar. 
Wild cherries are equally productive. The 
persimmon is a delicious fruit, after the frost 
has destroyed its astringent properties. The 
black mulberry grows in most parts, and is 
Used for the feeding of silk-worms with suc- 
cess. They appear to thrive and spin as well 
as on the Italian mulberry. The gooseberry, 
strawberry, and blackberry, grow wild and in 
great profusion. Of our nuts, the hickory, 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 



273 



black walnut, and pecaun, deserve notice. 
The last is an oblong, thin shelled, delicious 
nut, that grows on a large tree, a species of 
the hickory, (the Carya olivceformis of Nuttall.) 
The pawpaw grows in the bottoms, and rich, 
timbered uplands, and produces a large, pulpy, 
and luscious fruit. Of domestic fruits, the 
apple and peach are chiefly cultivated. Pears 
are tolerably plenty in the French settlements, 
and quinces are cultivated with success by 
some Americans. Apples are easily culti- 
vated, and are very productive. They can 
be made to bear fruit to considerable advan- 
tage in seven years from the seed. Many 
varieties are of fine flavor, and grow to a large 
size. I have measured apples, the growth of 
St. Clair county, that exceeded thirteen inches 
in circumference. Some of the early Ameri- 
can settlers provided orchards. They now 
reap the advantages. But a large proportion 
of the population of the frontiers are content 
without this indispensable article in the com- 
forts of ayankee farmer. Cider is made in small 
quantities in the old settlements. In a few 
years, a supply of this beverage can be had in 
most parts of Illinois. 

Peach trees grow with great rapidity, and 
decay proportionably soon. From ten to fif- 
teen years may be considered the life of this 
tree. Our peaches are delicious, but they 
sometimes fail by being destroyed in the germ 
by winter frosts. The bud swells prema- 
turely. 



274 peck's guide 

Garden Vegetables can be produced here in 
vast profusion, and of excellent quality. 

That we have few of the elegant and well 
dressed gardens of gentlemen in the old states, 
is admitted; which i^s not owing to climate, or 
soil, but to the want of leisure and means. 

Our Irish potatoes, pumpkins and squashes 
are inferior, but not our cabbages, peas, beets, 
or onions. 

A cabbage head, two or three feet in diam- 
eter including the leaves, is no wonder on this 
soil. Beets often exceed twelve inches in 
circumference. Parsnips will penetrate our 
light, porous soil, to the depth of two or three 
feet. 

The cultivated vegetable productions in the field, 
are maize or Indian corn, wheat, oats, barley, 
buckwheat, Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes, 
turnips, rye for horse feed and distilleries, 
tobacco, cotton, hemp, flax, the castor bean, 
and every other production common to the 
Middle States. 

Maize is a staple production. No farmer 
can live without it, and hundreds raise little 
else. This is chiefly owing to the ease with 
which it is cultivated. Its average produce is 
fifty bushels to the acre. I have oftentimes 
seen it produce seventy-five bushels to the 
acre, and in a few instances, exceed one hun- 
dred. 

Wheat yields a good and sure crop, espe- 
cially in the counties bordering on the Illinois 
river. It weighs upwards of 60 pounds per 



FOR EMIGRANTS. . 275 

bushel; and flour from this region has prefer- 
ence in the New Orleans market, and passes 
better inspection than the same article from 
Ohio or Kentucky. 

In 1825, the weevil, for the first time, made 
its appearance in St. Clair and the adjacent 
counties, and has occasionally renewed its 
visits since. Latterly, some fields have been 
injured by the fly. 

A common, but slovenly practice amongst 
our farmers, is, to sow wheat amongst the 
standing corn, in September, and cover it by 
running a few furrows with the plough be- 
tween the rows of corn. The dry stalks are 
then cut down in the spring, and left on the 
ground. Even by this imperfect mode, fifteen 
or twenty bushels of wheat to the acre are 
produced. But where the ground is duly 
prepared by fallowing, and the seed put in at 
the proper time, a good crop, averaging from 
twenty-five to thirty-five bushels per acre, 
rarely fails to be procured. 

The average price of wheat at present is a 
dollar per bushel, varying a little according 
to the competition of mills and facilities to 
market. In many instances a single crop of 
wheat will more than pay the expenses of pur- 
chasing the land, fencing, breaking the prairie, 
seed, putting in the crop, harvesting, thresh- 
ing, and taking it to market. Wheat is now 
frequently sown on the prairie land as a first 
crop, and a good yield obtained. 

Flouring mills are now in operation in many 



216 peck's guide 

of the wheat growing counties. Steam power 
is getting into extensive use both for sawing 
timber, and manufacturing flour. 

It is to he regretted, that so few of our 
farmers have erected barns for the security 
of their crops. No article is more profitable, 
and really more indispensable to a farmer, 
than a large barn. 

Oais have not been much raised till lately. 
They are very productive, often yielding Irom 
forty to fifty bushels on the acre, and usually 
sell tor twenty-five cents the bushel. The 
demand for the use of stage and travellers' 
horses is increasing. 

Hemp is an indigenous plant in the southern 
part of this State, as it is in Missouri. It has 
not been extensively cultivated; but wherever 
tried, is found very productive, and of an ex- 
cellent quality. It might be made a staple oi^ 
the country. 

Tobacco, though a filthy and noxious weed, 
which no human being ought ever to use, can 
be produced in any quantity, and of the first 
quality, in Illinois. 

Coilon, for many years, has been success- 
fully cultivated in this State for domestic use, 
and some for exportation. Two or three spin- 
ning factories are in operation, and produce 
cotton yarn from the growth of the country 
with promising success. This branch of busi- 
ness admits of enlargement, and invites the 
attention of eastern manufacturers with small 
capital. Much of the cloth made in families 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 277 

who have emigrated from States south of the 
Ohio is from the cotton of the country. 

Flax is produced, and of a tolerable quality, 
but not equal to that of the Northern States. 
It is said to be productive and good in the 
northern counties. 

Barleij yields well, and is a sure crop. 

The palma christi, or castor oil bean, is pro- 
duced in considerable quantities in Madison, 
Randolph, and other counties, and large quan- 
tities of oil are expressed and sent abroad. 

Sweet Potatoes are a delicious root, and 
yield abundantly, especially on the American 
bottom, and rich sandy prairies. 

But little has been done to introduce culti- 
vated grasses. The prairie grass looks coarse 
and unsavory, and yet our horses and cattle 
will thrive well on it. 

To produce timothy with success, the ground 
must be well cultivated in the summer, either 
by an early crop, or by fallowing, and the 
seed sown about the 20th of September, at the 
rate of ten or twelve quarts of clean seed to the 
acre, and lightly brushed in. 

If the season is in any way favorable, it will 
get a rapid start before winter. By the last 
week in June, it will produce two tons per 
acre, of the finest hay. It then requires a 
dressing of stable or yard manure, and occa- 
sionally the turf may be scratched with a har- 
row, to prevent the roots from binding too 
hard. By this process, timothy meadows may 
be made and preserved. There are meadows 



278 PECK S GUIDE 

in St, Clair county, which have yielded heavy 
crops of hay in succession, for several years, 
and bid fair to continue for an indefinite pe- 
riod. Cattle, and especially horses, should 
never be permitted to run in meadows in Illi- 
nois. The fall grass may be cropped down 
by calves and colts. There is but little 
more labor required to produce a crop of tim- 
othy, than a crop of oats, and as there is not 
a stone or a pebble to interrupt, the soil may 
be turned up every third or fourth year for 
corn, and afterwards laid down to grass again. 

A species of blue grass is cultivated by 
some farmers for pastures. If well set, and 
not eaten down in summer, blue grass pas- 
tures may be kept green and fresh till late in 
autumn, or even in the winter. The English 
spire grass has been cultivated with success 
in the Wabash country. 

Of the trefoil, or clover, there is but little 
cultivated. A prejudice exists against it, as 
it is imagined to injure horses by affecting the 
glands of the mouth, and causing them to 
slaver. It grows luxuriantly, and may be cut 
for hay early in June. The white clover 
comes in naturally, where the ground has 
been cultivated, and thrown by, or along the 
sides of old roads and paths. Clover pastures 
would be excellent for swine. 

Animals. Of wild animals there are several 
species. The buffalo is not found on this side 
the Mississippi, nor within several hundred 
miles of St. Louis. This animal once roamed 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 279 

at large over the prairies of Illinois, and was 
found in plenty, thirty-five years since. Wolves, 
panthers and tvild cats, still exist on the fron- 
tiers, and through the unsettled portions of 
the country, and annoy the farmer by destroy- 
ing his sheep and pigs. 

Deer are also very numerous, and are valu- 
able, particularly to that class of our popula- 
tion which has been raised to frontier habits; 
the flesh affording them food, and the skins, 
clothing. Fresh venison hams usually sell for 
twenty-five cents each, and when properly 
cured, are a delicious article. Many of the 
frontier people dress their skins, and make 
them into pantaloons and hunting shirts. 
These articles are indispensable to all who 
have occasion to travel in viewing land, or for 
any other purpose, beyond the settlements, as 
cloth garments, in the shrubs and vines, would 
soon be in strings. 

It is a novel and pleasant sight to a stranger, 
to see the deer in flocks of eight, ten, or fif- 
teen in number, feeding on the grass of the 
prairies, or bounding away at the sight of a 
traveller. 

The hroxvn hear is also an inhabitant of the 
unsettled parts of this State, although he is 
continually retreating before the advance of 
civilization. 

Foxes, raccoons, opossums, gophars, and 
squirrels, are also numerous, as are muskrats, 
otters, and occasionally beaver, about our 
rivers and lakes. Raccoons are very com- 



280 peck's guide 

mon, and frequently do mischief in the fall, to 
our corn. Opossums sometimes trouble the 
poultry. 

The gophar is a singular little animal, about 
the size of a squirrel. It burrows in the 
ground, is seldom seen, but its ivorks make it 
known. It labors during the night, in digging 
subterranean passages in the rich soil of the 
prairies, and throws up hillocks of fresh earth, 
within a few feet distance from each other, 
and from twelve to eighteen inches in height. 

The gray and fox squirrels often do mis- 
chief in the corn-fields, and the hunting of 
them makes fine sport for the boys. 

Common rabbits exist in every thicket, and 
annoy nurseries and young orchards exceed- 
ingly. The fence around a nursery must 
always be so close as to shut out rabbits; and 
young apple trees must be secured, at the ap- 
proach of winter, by tying straw or corn stalks 
around their bodies, for two or three feet in 
height, or the bark will be stripped off" by 
these mischievous animals. 

Wild horses are found ranging the prairies 
and forests in some parts of the State. They 
are small in size, of the Indian or Canadian 
breed, and very hardy. They are found 
chiefly in the lower end of the American Bot- 
tom, near the junction of the Kaskaskia and 
Mississippi rivers, called the Point. They are 
the oflTspring of the horses brought there by 
the first settlers, and which were suffered to 
run at large. The Indians of the West have 



li 



TOR EMIGRANTS. 281 

many such horses, which are commonly called 
Indian ponies. 

Domestic Animals. These are the same as 
are found in other portions of the United 
States. But little has been done to improve 
the breed of horses amongst us. Our com- 
mon riding or working horses average about 
fifteen hands in height. Horses are much 
more used here than in the Eastern States, 
and many a farmer keeps half a dozen or 
more. Much of the travelling throughout the 
western country, both by men and women, is 
performed on horseback; and a large propor- 
tion of the land carriage is by means of large 
wagons, with from four to six stout horses for 
a team. A great proportion of the ploughing 
is performed by horse labor. Horses are 
more subject to diseases in this country than 
in the old States, which is thought to be occa- 
sioned by bad management, rather than by 
the climate. A good farm horse can be pur- 
chased for fifty dollars. Riding or carriage 
horses, of a superior quality, cost about sev- 
enty-five or eighty dollars. Breeding mares 
are profitable stock for every farmer to keep, 
as their annual expense in keeping is but tri- 
fling: their labor is always needed, and their 
colts, when grown, find a ready market. 
Some farmers keep a stallion, and eight or 
ten brood mares. 

Mules are brought into Missouri, and find 
their way to Illinois, from the Mexican do- 
minions. They are a hardy animal, grow to 



282 deck's guide 

a good size, and are used by some, both for 
labor and riding. 

Our neat cattle are usually inferior in size to 
those of the old States. This is owing entirely 
to bad management. Our cows are not pen- 
ned up in pasture fields, but suffered to run 
at large over the commons. Hence all the 
calves are preserved, without respect to qual- 
ity, to entice the cows homeward at evening. 

In autumn their food is very scanty, and 
during the winter they are permitted to pick 
up a precarious subsistence amongst fifty or a 
hundred head of cattle. With such manage- 
ment, is it surprising that our cows and steers 
are much inferior to those of the old States.? 

And yet, our beef is the finest in the world. 
It bears the best inspection of any in the New 
Orleans market. By the first of June, and 
often by the middle of May, our young cattle 
on the prairies are fit for market. They do 
not yield large quantities of tallow, but the fat 
is well proportioned throughout the carcass, 
and the meat tender and delicious. By inferi- 
ority, then, I mean the she of our cattle in 
general, and the quantity and quality of the 
milk of cows. 

Common cows, if suffered to lose their milk 
in August, become sufficiently fat for table use 
by October. Fallow heifers and steers, are 
good beef, and fit for the knife at any period 
after the middle of May. Nothing is more 
common than for an Illinois farmer to go 
among his stock, select, shoot down, and dress 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 283 

a fine beef, whenever fresh meat is needed. 
This is often divided out amongst the neigh- 
bors, who in turn, kill and share likewise. It 
is common at camp and other large meetings, 
to kill a beef and three or four hogs for the 
subsistence of friends from a distance. 

Steers from three years old or more, have 
been purchased in great numbers in Illinois, 
by drovers from Ohio. Cattle are sometimes 
sent in flat boats down the Mississippi and 
Ohio, for the New Orleans market. 

We can hardly place limits upon the amount 
of beef cattle that Illinois is capable of pro- 
ducing. A farmer calls himself poor, with a 
hundred head of horned cattle around him. 
A cow in the spring is worth from seven to 
ten or fifteen dollars. Some of the best quality 
will sell higher. And let it be distinctly un- 
derstood, once for all, that a poor man can 
always purchase horses, cattle, hogs, and pro- 
visions, for labor, either by the day, month, 
or job. 

Cows, in general, do not produce the same 
amount of milk, nor of as rich a quality as in 
older States. Something is to be attributed 
to the nature of our pastures, and the warmth 
of our climate, but more to causes already 
assigned. If ever a land was characterized 
justly, as " flowing with milk and honey," it 
is Illinois and the adjacent States. P^rom the 
springing of the grass till September, butter 
is made in great profusion. It sells at that 
season in market for about ten cents. With 



S84 PECK S GUIDE 

proper care it can be preserved in tolerable 
sweetness for v/inter's use. Late in autumn 
and early in the winter, sometimes butter is 
not plenty. The feed becomes dry, the cows 
range further off, and do not come up readily 
for milking, and dry up. A very little trouble 
would enable a farmer to keep three or four 
good cows in fresh milk at the season most 
needed. 

Cheese is made by many families, especial- 
ly in the counties bordering on the Illinois 
river, Good cheese sells for eight and some- 
times ten cents, and finds a ready market. 

Swine. This species of stock may be called 
a staple in the provision of Illinois. Thou- 
sands of hogs are raised without any expense, 
except a few breeders to start with, and a 
little attention in hunting them on the range, 
and keeping them tame. 

Pork that is made in a domestic way and 
fatted on corn, will sell from three to four and 
five dollars, according to size, quality, and 
the time when it is delivered. With a pasture 
of clover or blue grass, a well-filled corn crib, 
a dairy, and slop barrel, and the usual care 
that a New Englander bestows on his pigs, 
pork may be raised from the sow, fatted, and 
killed, and weigh from two hundred to two 
hundred and fifty, within twelve months; and 
this method of raising pork would be profita- 
ble. 

Few fiimilies in the west and south put up 
their pork in salt pickle. Their method is to 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 286 

salt it sufficiently to prepare it for smoking, 
and then make bacon of hams, shoulders, and 
middlings or broadsides. The price of bacon, 
taking the hog round, is about seven and eight 
cents. Good hams command eight and ten 
cents in the St. Louis market. Stock hogs, 
weighing from sixty to one hundred pounds, 
Tilive, usually sell from one to two dollars per 
head. Families consume much more meat in 
the West in proportion to numbers, than in 
the old States. 

Sheep do very well in this country, especial- 
ly in the older settlements, where the grass 
has become short, and they are less molested 
by wolves. 

Poulirij is raised in great profusion, — and 
large numbers of fowls taken to market. 

Ducks, geese, swans, and many other 
•aquatic birds, visit our waters in the spring. 
The small lakes and sloughs are often literally 
covered with them. Ducks, and some of the 
rest, frequently stay through the summer and 
breed. 

The prairie fowl is seen in great numbers 
on the prairies in the summer, and about the 
corn fields in the winter. This is the grouse 
of the New York market. They are easily 
taken in the winter. 

Partridges, (the quail of New England,) 
are taken with nets, in the winter, by hun- 
dreds in a day, and furnish no trifling item in 
the luxuries of the city market. 

Bees. These laborious and useful insects 
12* 



PECK S GUIDE 

are found in the trees of every forest. 
Many of the frontier people make it a promi- 
nent business, after the frost has killed the 
vegetation, to hunt them for the honey and 
wax, both of which find a ready market. 
Bees are profitable stock for the farmer, and 
are kept to a considerable extent. 

Silk-ivo7ins are raised by a few persons. 
They are capable of being produced to any 
extent, and fed on the common black mulberry 
of the country. 

Manufactures. — In the infancy of a state^ 
little can be expected in machinery and manu- 
factures. And in a region so much deficient 
in water power as some parts of Illinois is, 
still less may be looked for. Yet Illinois is 
not entirely deficient in manutacturing enter- 
prise. 

Salt. The principal salines of this State 
have been mentioned under the head of mine- 
rals. 

The principal works are at Gallatin, Big 
Muddy, and Vermillion salines. 

Steam Mills for flouring and sawing are be- 
coming very common, and in general are 
profitable. Some are now in operation with 
four run of stones, and which manufacture 
one hundred barrels of flour in a day. Mills 
propelled by steam, water, and animal power, 
are constantly increasing. Steam mills will 
become numerous, particularly in the southern 
and middle portions of the State, and it is de- 
serving remark that, while these portions are not 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 287 

well supplied with durable water power, they 
contain, in the timber of the forest, and the 
inexhaustible bodies of bituminous coal, abun- 
dant supplies of fuel; while the northern por- 
tion, though deficient in fuel, has abundant 
water power. 

A good steam saw-mill with two saws can 
be built for ^1,500; and a steam flouring mill 
with two run of stones, elevators, and other 
apparatus complete, and of sufficient force to 
turn out forty or fifty barrels of flour per day, 
may be built for from $3,500 to $5,000. 

Ox mills on an inclined plane, and horse 
mills by draught, are common through the 
country. 

Castor Oil. Considerable quantities of this 
article have been manufactured in Illinois 
from the palma christi, or castor bean. One 
bushel of the beans will make nearly tvro gal- 
lons of the oil. There are five or six castor 
oil presses in the State, in Madison, Randolph, 
Edwards, and perhaps in other counties. Mr. 
Adams of Edwardsville, in 1825, made 500 
gallons, which then sold at the rate of two 
dollars fifty cents per gallon. In 1826, he 
made 800 gallons; in 1827, 1000 gallons, — the 
price then, one dollar seventy-five cents: in 
1828, 1800 gallons, price one dollar. In 1830, 
he started two presses and made upwards of 
10,000 gallons, which sold for from seventy- 
five to eighty-seven cents per gallon: in 1831, 
about the same quantity. That and the fol- 
lowing season being unfavorable for the pro- 
duction of the bean, there has been a falling 



288 peck's guide 

off in the quantity. The amount manufactured 
in other parts of the State has probably ex- 
ceeded that made by Mr. Adams. 

Lead. In Jo Daviess county are eight or 
ten furnaces for smelting lead. The amount 
of this article made annually at the mines of 
the Upper Mississippi, has been given under 
the head of minerals. 

Boat Building will soon become a branch of 
business in this State. Some steamboats have 
been constructed already within this State, 
along the Mississippi. It is thought that Alton 
and Chicago are convenient sites for this busi- 
ness. 

There is in this State, as in all the Western 
States, a large amount of domestic manufac- 
tures made by families. All the trades, need- 
fu>to a new country, are in existence. Car- 
penters, wagon makers, cabinet makers, black- 
smiths, tanneries, Stc, may be found in every 
county and town, and thousands more are 
wanted. 

There has been a considerable falling off in 
the manufacture of whiskey within a few years,, 
and it is sincerely hoped by thousands of citi- 
zens, that this branch of business, so decidedly 
injurious to the morals and happiness of com- 
munities and individuals, will entirely decline. 

Several companies for manufacturing pur- 
poses, have been incorporated by the legisla- 
ture. 

Civil Divisions. — There are 66 counties laid 
off in this State, 59 of which are organized for 
judicial purposes. The six last named in the 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 



289 



following table were laid off at the recent 
session of the legislature, Jan. 1836. The 
county of Will was formed from portions of 
Cook, Lasalle, and Iroquois, with the town of 
Juliet for its seat of justice, near the junction 
of the Kankakee and Des Plaines. 

In this State, there are no civil divisions 
into townships as in Ohio, Indiana, &.c. The 
township tracts of six miles square, in the 
public surveys, relate exclusively to the land 
system. The State is divided into three dis- 
tricts to elect representatives to Congress, 
and into six circuits for judicial purposes. 



TABULAR VIEW OF THE COUNTIES. 



Counties. 


.1 


9 » 




c 

1 


Seatsof Justice. 


Distance &. 
bearing 
from Van- 
dalia. 




lb25 
1819 
1817 
1825 
1833 

1819 

1821 
1824 
18 ir, 
I8:m 

1830 
1823 
1814 
1831 
1821 
1818 


8-20 
375 
360 
260 

864 

500 

6-20 
500 
378 
1248 

els 

200 
486 
684 
850 


798 
249 
519 
151 
102 

451 

1:2 
414 
519 
(■)80 
528 
788 
239 
129 
665 
759 


7042 
2050 
3580 
1091 
1045 

3413 

1648 
2648 
3540 
5125 
9826 
6668 
200(i 
10.5,5 
3638 
5551 




175 H. ic. 


Alxander, ... 

Bond, 

Calhoun, 

Champaign, .. 

Clark, 

Clay, 


Unity, 

Greenville, 

Gilead, 

UrbaiHia, 

Darwin,* or ( 

Marshall, \ 

Maysville, 

Carlyle, 

Palestine, 

Charleston, 

Chicago, 

Paris, 

All.ion, 

Ewington, 

Vandalia, 

Frankfort, 


135 s. 

19 w.s. w. 
1.34 10.71. w. 
103 n. n. e. 

82 e. 7J. e. 

50 s. e. 


Clinton, 

Crawford, 

Cole?, 

Cook, 

Edgar, 

Edward?<, 

Effingham, ... 

Fayette, 

Franklin, 


28 s. s. w. 
100 e. 

75 11. e. 
268 71. 11. e. 
100 71. e. 

96 s. e. 

29 e. n. e. 

83 s. 



* It is expected the seat of justice of Clark county will be removed 
to Marshall, 10 miles N. VV. from Darwin, and on the National Road. 
The distance is computed to Marshall. 

f These counties have been recently subdivided, and their superfi- 
cial area is not known. 



290 



PECK S GUIDE 



TABULAR VIEW CONTINUED. 



Counties. 



Fulton, 

Gallatin, .... 

Greene, 

Hamilton, ... 
Hancock, .. .. 
Henry, (not or 
ganized,) . . 
Iroquois, .... 
Jackson, .... 

Jasper, 

Jefferson, .... 
Jo Daviess, . . 

Johnson, 

Knox, 

Lasalle, 

Lawrence,... 

Macon, 

Madison, 

Macoupin, . . . 

Marion, 

McDonough, . 

McLean, 

Mercer, 

Monroe, 

Montgomery, 

Morgan, 

Peoria, 

Perry, 

Pike, 

Pope, 

Putnam, 

Randolph, . . . 
Rock Island, . 
Sangamon,... 
Schuyler, .... 

Shell.y, 

St. Clair, 

Tazewell, ... 

Union, 

Vermillion, . . 
Wnbash, .... 

Warren, 

Washington,. 

Wayne, 

White 



«2 




i 


s 
o 


a 


s> 


.s 


J« 


2 c 


Kj 


a 








a"' 


^ 


^ 


> 


;S 


1825 


590 


607 


5917 


1812 


828 


1312 


8660 


1821 


912 


1360 


12274 


1821 


378 


460 


2877 


1825 


775 


357 


3249 


1825 


800 




118 


1833 


t 


67 


1164 


1816 


576 


354 


2783 


1831 


288 




415 


1819 


576 


455 


3350 


1827 


t 


492 


4038 


1812 


486 


316 


2166 


1825 


792 


180 


1600 


1831 


t 


289 


4754 


1821 


560 


618 


4450 


1829 


1404 


292 


302-2 


1812 


750 


1307 


9016 


1829 


720 


624 


5554 


1823 


576 


372 


2844 


1825 


576 


304 


2883 


1830 


1916 


496 


5311 


1825 


558 




497 


1816 


360 


449 


2660 


1821 


960 


475 


3740 


1823 


11.50 


2717 


19214 


1825 


648 


223 


3220 


1827 


446 


273 


2201 


1821 


800 


657 


6037 


1816 


.576 


444 


3756 


1825 


1340 


383 


4021 


1795 


540 


814 


5(i95 


1831 


377 


83 


616 


1821 


1234 


2219 


17573 


1825 


8t;4 


680 


6361 


1827 


1080 


636 


4848 


1795 


1030 


1183 


9055 


1827 


1130 


433 


5850 


1818 


396 


545 


4i.-,f; 


18211 


1000 


1025 


8103 


1H24 


180 


441 


3010 


1825 


900 


266 


2623 


1818 


6.56 


333 


3292 


1819 


.576 


471 


2939 


1815 


516 


977 


6489 






Seats OF Justice 



Lewistown,. . . 

Equality, 

Carrollton, . . . 
McLeansboro', 
Carthage, .... 

(Not established,) 
Brownsville, .... 

Newton, • 

Mount Vernon,.. 
Galena, (yi. n. ic.) 

Vienna, 

Knoxville, 

Ottawa, 

Lawrenceville,... 

D-?catur, 

Edwardsville, . . . 

Carlinville, 

Salem, 

Macomb, 

Bloomingtoii, .... 

New Boston, 

Waterloo, 

Hillsboro', 

Jacksonville, 

Peoria, 

Pinckneyville, ... 

Pittsfield, 

Golconda, 

Hennepin, 

Kaskaskia, 

Stephenson, 

Springfield, 

Rushville, 

Shelbyville, 

Belleville, 

Treniont, 

J()nes!)oro', 

Danville, 

Mount Carniel, . . 

Monmouth, 

Nashville, 

Fairfield, 

Carmi, 



S;2 

.2^ 



135 n. n. to. 
100 s. s. e. 

90 w. n. w. 
76 s. s. e. 

180 n. w. 

210 71. n. w. 

165 n. n. e. 

96 5. s. w. 

60 e. 

48 s. s. e. 
300 n. n. w. 
120 s. 

182 11. n. to. 
187 n. 

88 e. s. e. 

75 11. 
58 w. 

55 w. n. w, 

25 6. s. e. 
1 55 n. w. 
120 11. 
209 rt. w. 

72 s. w. 

28 11. w. 

91 W.W. 
141 n. n. w. 

71 *% s. to. 
126 w. n. w. 

130 s. s. e. 
180 11. 

90 s. s. w. 
220 ,1. w. 

79 7^ 71. w. 
12S n. w. 

40 7J. 71. e. 

64 w. s. 10. 

131 71. 

120 *•. 
135 71. e. 

95 s. e. 
184 11. to. 

48 s. s. w. 

76 s. e. 
103 s. e. 



FOR EMlGltA?fTS, 



291 



TABULAR VIEW CONTINUED. 



J^ew Counties 
formed, Jan. 
1836, 


B 


as 






Seats of Justice. 


Will, 

Whiteside, ... 

Kane, 

0"le, 


1836 






Juliett. 

These counties were ta-- 
ken from Jo Daviess, La- 
salle, Cook, and Iroquois- 
The seats of justice not 
established, anil much ot' 
the land unstirveyed, 
though rapidly settling. 


McHenry, .... 

Winnobago, .. 


Total, 


34,102 


272,427 



SKETCHES OF EACH COUNTY, 

Adams. — The streams are Bear creek and 
branches, Cedar, Tyrer, Mill, Fall, and Pigeon 
creeks, with the Mississippi river on its west- 
ern border. Timber various, with equal por- 
tions of prairie. First rate county. 

Alexander. — In the forks of the Ohio and 
Mississippi, with Cash river through it. All 
timbered, — half alluvion, — some inundated at 
high water,— lime and sandstone on the Ohio; 
■ — soil, generally rich. 

Bond. — -Shoal creek and its branches 
through it, with Hurricane creek on the east 
side; — proportioned into timber and prairie; 
—rather level, — second rate. Sandstone, coal, 
and salt springs. 

Calhoun. — Long and narrow, in the forks 
of the Illinois and Mississippi; — alluvial and 
sometimes inundated along the rivers; — broken 
bluffs and interior table land; — good soil; — - 
prairies at the foot of the bluffs. Coal, lime 
and sandstone. 



Champaign.— The streams are the headis 
of the Kaskaskia, Sangamon, Vermillion of 
Illinois, Salt Fork of the Vermillion of the Wa- 
bash, and the Embarras, all running in oppo- 
site directions. Extensive prairies, a little 
undulating and rich;— timber in groves; — 
many granite bowlders, 

Clark. — North Fork of Embarras, Mill and 
Big creeks. Timber and prairie,-— second 
rate soil. 

Clay. — Watered by Little Wabash and 
tributaries. Two thirds prairie,— of inferior 
xjuality,— -rather level and wet. 

Clinton.— Kaskaskia river, with its tribu* 
taries, Crooked, Shoal, Beaver and Sugar 
creeks, pass through it. Equally proportioned 
into timber and prairie. Soil, second rate; 
surface, a little undulating. 

Coles.— The Kaskaskia, Embarras, and 
heads of the Little Wabash water it. Much 
excellent land, — ^much undulating, rich prai- 
rie; — some level and wet land in the south- 
eastern part. Timber in sufficient quanti- 
ties. 

Cook.— Adjoins Lake Michigan, and has 
the branches of Chicago, Des Plaines, Du 
Page, Au Sable and Hickory creeks. Sur- 
face, tolerably level; rich soil, — extensive 
prairies, — timber in groves; — a few swamps. 
Plenty of limestone, and the streams run over 
rocky beds. 

Crawford. — -The W" abash river on its east- 
ern side, withLamotte, Hudson, Raccoon and 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 293 

Sugar creeks. Some level prairies, rather 
sandy, with a full supply of timber. 

Edgar. — Watered by Big, Clear, and Bru- 
lette's creeks on the eastern, and Little Em- 
barras on its western side. Southern and 
eastern sides timbered; northern and western 
sides much prairie; some undulating, — some 
level and rather wet. Grand View is a de- 
lightful tract of country. 

Edwards. — The Little Wabash on its west- 
ern, and Bon Pas on its eastern border. 
Several prairies, high, undulating, and bound- 
ed by heavy timber. Soil, second quality. 

Effingham. — Watered by the Little Wa- 
bash and its tributaries; due proportion of tim- 
ber and prairie; tolerably level, — second rate. 

Fayette. Kaskaskia river, Hurricane. 

Higgens', Ramsey's and Beck's creeks. The 
bottom lands on the Kaskaskia low, and inun- 
dated at high water; considerable prairie; 
much heavy timber; soil, second rate. 

Franklin. — Watered by the Big Muddy 
and its branches, and the South Fork of Saline 
creek. The prairies small, fertile and level, — 
timber plenty, — soil rather sandy. 

Fulton. — The Illinois on the south-eastern 
side, with Spoon river and several small 
creeks through it. About half heavily tim- 
bered, with rich, undulating prairies; streams 
flow over a pebbly bed; soil, first rate. 

Gallatin — Joins the Wabash and Ohio 
rivers, and has the Saline and branches run- 
ning through it. Soil, sandy, with sand rock, 
13 



294 peck's guide 

limestone, quartz crystals, excellent salines, 
&c. Timber of various kinds; no prairies. 

Greene — Has the Mississippi south, the 
Illinois west, with Otter, Macoupen and Apple 
creeks. Much excellent land, both timber 
and prairie, in due proportion, with abundance 
of lime and sandstone, and coal. 

Hamilton. — Watered by branches of the 
Saline, and Little Wabash; a large proportion 
timbered land; soil, second and third rate, with 
some swamp in the northern part. Sandstone 
and some lime. 

Hancock. — Besides the Mississippi, it has 
a part of Bear, Crooked, and Camp creeks; 
large prairies; timber along the streams; rich, 
first rate land. 

Henry — Has Rock river north, with Win- 
nebago swamp, and its outlet on Green river, 
and one of the heads of Spoon river, and Ed- 
"vvards river interior. Some rich, undulating 
prairies and groves, with considerable wet, 
swampy land. Not much population. 

Iroquois. — Kankakee, Iroquois and Sugar 
creek. Sand ridges and plains; much rich 
prairie; some timber, but deficient. It is 
found chiefly in groves and strips along the 
water courses. • 

Jackson — Has the Mississippi on the south- 
west, and Muddy river running diagonally 
through it, with some of its tributaries. Some 
prairies in the north-eastern part, — much 
heavy timber, — some hilly and broken land, — 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 295 

with abundance of coal, saline springs, lime 
and sandstone. 

Jasper. — The Embarras runs through it, 
and the Muddy Fork of the Little Wabash 
waters its western side. Much of both the 
prairie and timbered land is level and rather 
wet; some fertile tracts. 

Jefferson, — Watered by several branches 
of the Big Muddy and Little Wabash. Soil, 
second rate; surface, a little undulating; one 
third prairie; several sulphur and other medi- 
cinal springs, 

Jo Daviess — Formerly embraced all the 
State north-west of Rock river, but recently 
divided into three or four counties. Besides 
the Mississippi, it has Fever river, Pekatono- 
.kee, Apple river, and Rush and Plum creeks. 
A rich county, both for agricultural and 
mining purposes. Timber scarce, and in 
groves; surface undulating, — in some places 
hilly; well watered by streams and springs, 
and has good mill sites. Copper and lead ore 
in abundance, 

Johnson. — The Ohio on the south. Cash 
river and Big Bay creek, and a series of lakes 
or ponds interior. A timbered country, toler- 
ably level; soil sandy, with considerable quan- 
tities of second rate land. 

Knox. — Watered by Henderson and Spoon 
rivers, and their tributaries. The prairies 
large, moderately undulating, and first quality 
of soil, with excellent timber along the water 
courses. 



296 peck's guide 

Lasalle. — Besides the Illinois river, which 
passes through it, Fox river, Big and Little 
Vermillion, Crow, Au Sable, Indian, Mason, 
Tomahawk, and other creeks, water this coun- 
ty. They generally run on a bed of sand or 
lime rock, and have but little alluvial bottom 
lands. Deficient in timber, but has an abun- 
dance of rich, undulating prairie, beautiful 
groves, abundant water privileges, and exten- 
sive coal banks. 

Lawrence.. — The Wabash east. Fox river 
west, and Embarras and Raccoon through it. 
An equal proportion of timber and prairie, 
some excellent, other parts inferior, — and 
some bad, miry swamps, called "' j)urgato- 
nes." 

Macon. — South-east portion, watered by the 
Kaskaskia and tributaries; the middle and 
northern portions by the North Fork of San- 
gamon, and the north-western part by Salt 
creek. The prairies large, and in their inte- 
rior, level and wet, — towards the timber, dry, 
undulating and rich. 

Madison. — The Mississippi lies west; Ca- 
hokia and Silver creeks, and Wood river, run 
through it. A part of this county lies in the 
American bottom, and is a rich and level allu- 
vion; but much of the county is high, undu- 
lating, and proportionably divided into timber 
and prairie. Well supplied with stone quar- 
ries and coal banks. 

Macoupen. The Macoupen creek and 

branches water its central and western parts, 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 297 

the Cahokia the south-eastern, and the heads 
of Wood river and Piasau, the south-western 
parts. A large proportion of the county is 
excellent soil, well proportioned into timber 
and prairie, and slightly undulating. 

Marion. — Watered by the East Fork, and 
Crooked creek, tributaries of Kaskaskia river, 
on its western, and heads of Skillet Fork of 
Little Wabash on its eastern side. Much of 
the land of second quality, slightly undulating, 
about one third timbered, — some of the prairie 
land level, and inclined to be wet. 

McDoNOUGH. Crooked creek and its 

branches water most of the county. The 
eastern side, for 8 or 10 miles in width, is 
prairie, — the western and middle parts suita- 
bly divided between prairie and forest land; 
surface, moderately undulating; soil, very 
rich. 

McLean. — One third of the eastern, and a 
portion of the northern side, is one vast prai- 
rie. The timber is beautifully arranged in 
groves; the surface moderately undulating, 
and the soil dry and rich. The head waters 
of the Sangamon, Mackinau, and the Vermil- 
lion of the Illinois, are in this county. Its 
minerals are quarries of lime and sandstone, 
and granite bowlders, scattered over the 
prairies. 

Mercer — Has the Mississippi on the west, 
and Pope and Edwards rivers interior, along 
which are fine tracts of timber; in its middle 
and eastern parts are extensive prairies; sur- 
face, generally undulating; soil, rich. 



298 peck's guide 

Monroe. — Watered by Horse, Prairie de 
Long, and Fountain creeks. The American 
bottom adjacent to the Mississippi is rich allu- 
vion, and divided into timber and prairie. On 
the bluffs are ravines and sink-holes, with 
broken land. Further interior is a mixture of 
timber and prairie. Abundance of limestone, 
coal, and some copper. 

Montgomery. — Watered by Shoal creek 
and branches, and Hurricane Fork. Surface, 
high and undulating, and proportionably di- 
vided into timber and prairie. Soil, second 
rate, 

Morgan. — A first rate county, — well pro- 
portioned into prairie and forest lands, — much 
of the surface undulating; watered by the Illi- 
nois river and Mauvaise-terre, Indian, Plum, 
Walnut, and Sandy creeks, and heads of Apple 
creek. Coal, lime and freestone. 

Peoria. — Watered by the Illinois, Kicka- 
poo. Copperas, Senatchwine, and heads of 
Spoon river. Surface, moderately rolling, 
rich soil, and proportionately divided into 
prairie and forest. 

Perry. — Streams; BigBeaucoup, and Little 
Muddy; one third prairie, tolerably level, and 
second rate soil. 

Pike. Besides Mississippi and Illinois, 

which wash two sides, it has the Suycartee 
slough, running through its western border, 
and navigable for steamboats, and a number 
of smaller creeks. The land and surface 
various, — much of it excellent undulating soil, 
— some rich alluvion, inundated at high water. 



Ji 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 299 

— large tracts of table land, high, rolling, and 
rich, with due proportion of timber and prairie. 
A large salt spring. 

Pope. — With the Ohio river east and south, 
it has Big Bay, Lusk's, and Big creeks inte- 
rior. A timbered region, tolerably level, ex- 
cept at the bluffs, with good sandy soil, and 
sand and limestone. 

PuTNA3i. — The Illinois runs through it, — 
Spoon river waters its north-western part, and 
Bureau, Crow, Sandy, and some other streams, 
water its middle portions. Here are beautiful 
groves of timber, and rich, undulating and 
dry prairies, fine springs, and good mill sites. 
Lime, sand and freestone, and bituminous 
coal. A few tracts of wet prairie, with some 
ponds and swamps, are in the north-western 
part. 

Randolph — Has the Mississippi along the 
western side; Kaskaskia river passes diagonal- 
ly through it; soil, of every quality, from lirst 
rate to indifferent; surliice, equally as various, 
with rocky precipices at the termination of the 
alluvial bottoms. 

Rock Island — Is at the mouth of Rock 
river, which, with the Mississippi, and some 
minor streams, drain the county. Rich allu- 
vion along the Mississippi, with much excel- 
lent table land, — both timber and prairie in- 
terior. Some wet, level prairie, south of 
Rock river. 

Sangamon. — Watered by Sangamon river 
and its numerous branches. Much of the soil 



300 peck's guide 

is of the richest quality, with due proportions 
of timber and prairie, moderately undulating, 
and a first rate county. 

Schuyler. — The south-eastern side has the 
Illinois, the interior has Crooked and Crane 
creeks, and the south-west has McKee's creek. 
Along the Illinois is much timber, with some 
inundated bottom lands. Interior, there is a 
due proportion of prairie and timber and rich 
soil, with an undulating surface. 

Shelby — Is watered by the Kaskaskia and 
tributaries; has a large amount of excellent 
land, both timber and prairie, with good soil, 
moderately undulating. 

St. Clair. The streams are Cahokia, 

Prairie du Pont, Ogle's, Silver, Richland, and 
Prairie de Long creeks, and Kaskaskia river. 
The land is various, much of which is good, 
first and second rate, and proportionably di- 
vided into timber, prairie, and barrens. The 
minerals are lime and sandstone, and exten- 
sive beds of coal, and shale. 

Tazewell. — Watered by the Illinois, Mac- 
kinau, and their tributaries. Much of the 
surface is undulating, soil rich; prairie pre- 
dominates, but considerable timber, with some 
broken land about tlic bluffs of Mackinau, and 
some sand ridges and swamps in the southern 
part of the county. 

Union. — Watered by the Mississippi, Clear 
creek, the heads of Cash, and some of the 
small tributaries of the Big Muddy. Much of 
the surface is rolling and hilly, — all forest 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 



301 



land. Soil, second and third rate. Some rich 
alluvial bottom. 

Vermillion — Is watered by Big and Little 
Vermillion of the Wabash, with large bodies 
of excellent timber along the streams, and 
rich prairies interior. Surface, undulating 
and dry; soil, deep, rich, and calcareous. 

Wabash — Has Wabash river on the east, 
Bon Pas on the west, and some small creeks 
central; surface rolling, and a mixture of tim- 
ber and prairie; soil, generally second rate. 
Minerals; lime and sandstone. 

Warren. — Besides the Mississippi, its prin- 
cipal stream is Henderson river, which passes 
through it, with Ellison, Honey, and Camp 
creeks. Much of the land on these streams is 
rich, undulating, deficient somewhat in timber, 
with excellent prairie. Along the Mississippi, 
and about the mouth of Henderson, the land 
is inundated in high water. 

Washington — Has the Kaskaskia on its 
north-western side, with Elkhorn, Little Mud- 
dy, Beaucoup, and Little Crooked creeks in- 
terior. The prairies are rather level, and in 
places inclined to be wet; the timber, espe- 
cially along the Kaskaskia, heavy. 

Wayne. — The Little Wabash, with its trib- 
utaries. Elm river, and Skillet Fork, are its 
streams. It is proportionably interspersed with 
prairie and woodland, generally of second 
quality. 

White. — The eastern side washed by the 
Big Wabash, along which is a low, inundated 
bottom; the interior is watered by the Little 



302 peck's guide 

Wabash and its tributaries. Some prairie, 
but mostly timber. Soil and surface various. 
Some rich bottom prairies, with sandy soil. 

TOWNS. 

Vandalia is the seat of government till 
1840, after which it is to be removed to Alton, 
according to avote of the people in 1834, unless 
they should otherwise direct. It is situated 
on the right bank of the Kaskaskia river, in 
N. lat. 39° 0' 42", and 58 miles in a direct 
line, a little north of east from Alton. The 
public buildings are temporary. Population, 
about 750. 

Alton. Two towns of this name are distin- 
guished as Alton, and Upper Alton. Alton is 
an incorporated town, situated on the bank of 
the Mississippi, two and a half miles above 
the mouth of the Missouri, and at the place 
where the curve of the Mississippi penetrates 
the furthest into Illinois, 18 miles below the 
mouth of the Illinois river. For situation, 
commerce, business of all kinds, health, and 
rapidity of growth, it far exceeds any other 
town on the east bank of the Mississippi, 
above New Orleans. The population is about 
2000. The commercial business done here 
is already immense, and extends through more 
than half of Illinois, besides a large trade on 
the western side of the Mississippi. Five 
large mercantile establishments do wholesale 
business only, four do wholesale and retail, 
besides four wholesale and retail groceries, 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 303 

and fifteen or twenty retail stores and groce- 
ries ; and yet many more mercantile houses are 
necessary for the business of the country. 
Great facilities for business of almost every de- 
scription, especially for every kind of mechan- 
ics, are to be had here. It offers one of the 
best situations on the western waters for build- 
ing and repairing steamboats. Town lots and 
lands adjacent have risen in value from 500 to 
1000 percent, within the last twelve months. 

Alton has respectable and well finished 
houses of worship for the Presbyterian, Metho- 
dist Protestant, and Baptist denominations; 
two good schools, a Lyceum, that holds weekly 
meetings, and two printing-offices. The 
population in general, is a moral, industrious, 
enterprising class. Few towns in the West 
have equalled this in contributions for public 
and benevolent objects, in proportion to age 
and population. 

Arrangements have been made for doing 
an extensive business in the slaughtering and 
packing of pork and beef. Four houses are 
engaged in that line, and have slaughtered 
about 25,000 hogs the present season. Many 
buildings will be erected the approaching 
season, amongst which will be an extensive 
hotel, which is much needed. The town is 
situated at the base, side, and top, of the first 
blufis that extend to the river, above the 
mouth of the Kaskaskia. Adjacent to it, and 
which will eventually become amalgamated, 
is Middletown, laid off directly in the rear. 



304 peck's guide 

Upper Mton is from two and a half to three 
miles back from the river, and in the rear of 
Lower Alton, on elevated ground, and in every 
respect a very healthy situation. It has ex- 
ceeding 120 families, and is rapidly improving. 
Adjacent to it, and forming now a part of the 
town plat, is '^ Shurtleff College, of Jilton, llli- 
nois,^^ which bids fair to become an important 
and flourishing institution. Also ^'' Mton Theo- 
logical Semmarij,^'' which has commenced oper- 
ations. Both these institutions have been got- 
ten up under the influence and patronage of 
the Baptist denomination. A female seminary 
of a high order, under the name of the ^^ Mton 
Female Institute,^^ has been chartered, and a 
building is about to be erected for the purpose. 
The Baptists, Methodists and Presbyterians 
have congregations here, and two houses of 
worship are to be built the present year. 

Chicago is the largest commercial town in 
Illinois. It is situated at the junction of North 
and South branches, and along the main Chi- 
cago, near its entrance into lake Michigan, 
on a level prairie, but elevated above the high- 
est floods. A recent communication from a 
respectable mercantile house, gives the fol- 
lowing statistics: "Fifty-one stores, 30 gro- 
ceries, 10 taverns, 12 physicians, 21 attornies, 
and 4,000 inhabitants. We have four churches, 
and two more building, one bank, a Marine 
and Fire Insurance company about to go into 
operation, and a brick hotel, containing 90 
apartments. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 305 

There were 9 arrivals and departures of 
steamboats in 1835, and 267 of brigs and 
schooners, containing 5,015 tons of merchan- 
dise and 9,400 barrels of salt, besides lumber, 
provisions, &c. 

The harbor now constructing by the U. S. 
government, will be so far completed in 1836, 
as to admit vessels and steamboats navigating 
the lakes. A few miles back of Chicago are 
extensive tracts of wet prairie. 

Galena is the seat of justice for Jo Daviess 
county, situated on Fever river, in the midst 
of the mining district. It has about 20 stores, 
a dozen groceries, and about 1 ,000 inhabitants. 

Springfield is near the geographical centre 
of the State, and in the midst of a most fer- 
tile region of country. It is a flourishing in- 
land town, and contains about 2,000 inhabi- 
tants. Jacksonville, the county seat of Morgan 
county, has about the same population, and is 
equally delightful and flourishing. 

One mile west, on a most beautiful eminence, 
stands '^Illinois College,'' founded under the 
auspices of the Presbyterian denomination, 
and bids fair to become a flourishing seat of 
learning. 

I have not room to name, much less describe, 
the many growing towns and villages in this 
State, that excite and deserve the attention 
of emigrants. On the Illinois river are Otta- 
wa, and several eligible sites in its vicinity, 
where towns have commenced; Beardstown, 
a short distance below the mouth of Sangamon 



306 peck's guide 

river, Peoria, at the foot of Peoria lake, (a 
most beautiful site, and containing 1,000 in- 
habitants,) Meredosia, Naples, Pekin, Hen- 
nepin, &c. On the Mississippi, are Quincy, 
Warsaw, New Boston, and Stephenson, the 
seat of justice for Rock Island county. Inte- 
rior, are Bloomington, Decatur, Tremont, 
Shelbyville, Hillsboro', Edwardsville, Carlyle, 
Belleville, Carrollton, and many others. To- 
wards the Wabash, are Danville, Paris, Law- 
renceville, Carmi, and Mount Carmel, the 
last of which has an importance from being 
connected with the grand rapids of the Wa- 
bash. Shawneetown is the commercial depot 
for the south-eastern part of the State. On 
the Military Tract are Rushville, Pittsfield, 
Griggs ville, Carthage, Macomb, Monmouth, 
Knoxville, Lewistown, Canton, &c., all pleas- 
ant sites, and having a population from two or 
three hundred to one thousand inhabitants. 

For a more particular description of each 
county, town, and settlement, with all other 
particulars of Illinois, the reader is referred to 
"A Gazetteer of Illinois," by the author 
of this Guide. 

Projected Improvements, — The project of 
uniting the waters of lake Michigan and the Il- 
linois, by a canal, was conceived soon after the 
commencement of the Grand canal of New 
York, and a Board of commissioners, with en- 
gineers, explored the route and estimated the 
cost, in 1823. Provision, by a grant of each 
alternate section of land within five miles of 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 307 

the route, having been granted by Congress, 
another Board of commissioners was appoint- 
ed in 1829, a new survey was made, and the 
towns of Chicago and Ottawa laid off, and some 
lots sold in 1830. Various movements have 
since been made, but nothing effectually done, 
until the recent special session of the legisla- 
ture, when an act was passed to authorize the 
Governor to borrow funds upon the faith of 
the State; a new Board of commissioners has 
been organized, and this great work is about 
to be prosecuted with vigor to its completion. 

Funds, in part, have been provided, from 
the sales of certain saline lands belonging to 
the State, to improve the navigation of the 
Great Wabash, at the Grand Rapids, near the 
mouth of White river, in conjunction with the 
State of Indiana. From the same source, 
funds are to be applied to the clearing out of 
several navigable water-courses, and repair- 
ing roads, within the State. 

Charters have been granted to several rail- 
road companies, some of which have been 
surveyed and the stock taken. One from 
Alton to Springfield was surveyed last year, 
and the stock subscribed in December. Anoth- 
er from St. Louis, by the coal mines of St. 
Clair county, to Belleville, 13 miles, is expect- 
ed to be made immediately. The project of a 
central railway from the termination of the 
Illinois and Michigan canal, at the foot of the 
rapids, a few miles below Ottawa, — through 
Bloomington, Decatur, Shelbyville, Vandalia, 



308 peck's guide 

and on to the mouth of the Ohio river, has 
been entered upon with spirit. Another 
chartercontemplatesthecontinuanceof aroute, 
already provided for in Indiana, and noticed 
under Ohio, from La Fayette, la. by Danville, 
Shelbyville and Hillsboro,' to Alton, the near- 
est point from the east to the Mississippi. A 
rail-road charter was granted at a previous 
session of the legislature from Meredosia to 
Jacksonville, and another from Vincennes to 
Chicago, 

We have only room to mention the following 
charters, which have been recently granted, in 
addition to those already specified: 

One from Pekin to Tremont, in Tazewell 
county, 9 miles. 

One from the Wabash, by Peoria to W^ar- 
saw, in Hancock county. 

The Wabash and Mississippi rail-road com- 
pany. 

The Mount Carmel and Alton rail-road com- 
pany. 

The Rushville rail-road company. 

The Winchester, Lynville, and Jacksonville 
rail-road company. 

The Shawneetown and Alton rail-road com- 
pany. 

The Pekin, Bloomington, and Wabash rail- 
road company. 

The Waverly and Grand Prairie rail-road 
company. 

The Galena and Chicago Union rail-road 
company. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 309 

The Wabash and Mississippi Union rail-road 
company. 

The Mississippi, Carrollton and Springfield 
rail-road company. 

The JS'^afional Road is in progress through 
this .State, and considerable has been made on 
that portion which lies between Vandalia and 
the boundary of Indiana. This road enters 
Illinois at the north-east corner ot" Clark 
county, and passes diagonally through Coles 
and Effingham counties in a south-westerly 
course to Vandalia, a distance of 90 miles. 
The road is established 80 feet wide, the cen- 
tral part 30 feet wide, raised above standing 
water, and not to exceed three degrees from 
u level. The base of all the abutments of 
bridges must be equal in thickness to one 
third of the height of the abutment. 

The road is not yet placed in a travelling 
condition. The line of the road is nearly di- 
rect, the loss in 90 miles being only the 38th 
part of one per cent. Between Vandalia and 
Ewington, for 23 miles, it does not deviate in 
the least from a direct line. 

From Vandalia westward, the road is not 
yet located, but it will probably pass to Alton. 

Education. — The same provision has been 
made for this as other Western States, in the 
disposal of the public lands. The section 
numbered sixteen in each township of land, is 
sold upon petition of the people within the 
township, and the avails constitute a perma- 
nent fund, the interest of which is annually 
13 * 



310 peck's guide 

applied towards the expenses, in part, of the 
education of those who attend school, living 
within the township. 

A school system, in part, has been arranged 
by the legislature. The peculiar and unequal 
division of the country into timber and prairie 
lands, and the inequality of settlements con- 
sequent thereupon, will prevent, for many 
years to come, the organization of school 
districts with defined geographical boundaries. 
To meet this inconvenience, the legislature 
has provided that any number of persons can 
elect three trustees, employ a teacher in any 
mode they choose, and receive their proportion 
of the avails of the school funds. In all cases, 
however, the teacher must keep a daily account of 
each scholar who attends school^ and make out a 
schedule of the aggregate that each scholar cdtcnds, 
every six months, and present it, certified by the 
trustees of the school, to the school com- 
missioner of the county, who apportions the 
money accordingly. 

This State receives three per cent, on all the 
net avails of public lands sold in this State, 
which, with the avails of two townships sold, 
makes a respectable and rapidly increasing 
fund, the interest only of which can be ex- 
pended, and that only to the payment of in- 
structers. 

Good common school teachers, both male 
and female, are greatly needed, and will meet 
with ready employ, and liberal wages. Here 
is a most delightful and inviting field for 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 311 

Christian activity. Common school, with Sun- 
day school instruction, calls for thousands of 
teachers in the West. 

Several respectable academies, are in opera- 
tion, and the wants and feelings of the community 
call for many more. Besides the colleges at 
Jacksonville and Alton already noticed, others 
are projected, and several have been chartered. 
The Methodist denomination have a building 
erected, and a preparatory school commenced, 
at Lebanon, St. Clair county. The Episco- 
palians are about establishing a college at 
Springfield. One or more will be demanded 
in the northern and eastern portions of the 
State; and it may be calculated that, in a very 
brief period, the State of Illinois will furnish 
facilities for a useful and general education, 
equal to those in any part of the country. 

Government. — The Constitution of Illinois was 
formed by a convention held at Kaskaskia, in 
August, 1818. It provides for the distribution 
of the powers of government into three distinct 
departments, — the legislative, executive, and 
judiciary. The legislative authority is vested 
in a general assembly, consisting of a senate 
and house of representatives. Elections are 
held biennially, as are the ordinary sessions 
of the legislature. Senators arc elected for 
four years. 

The executive power is vested in the gov^ 
ernor, who is chosen every fourth year, by the 
electors for representatives; but the same per- 
son is ineligible for the next succeeding four 



312 peck's guide 

years. The lieutenant governor is also chosen 
every four years. 

The judicial power is vested in a supreme 
court, and such inferior courts as the general 
assembly from time to time shall establish. 
The supreme court consists of a chief justice 
and three associate judges. 

The governor and judges of the supreme 
court constitute a council of revision, to which 
all bills that have passed the assembly must be 
submitted. If objected to by the council of 
revision, the same may become a law by the 
vote of a majority of all the members elected 
to both houses. 

The right of suffrage is universal. All 
white male inhabitants, citizens of the United 
States, twenty-one years of age, and who have 
resided within the State six months next pre- 
ceding the elections, enjoy the right of 
voting. Votes are given viva voce. The in- 
troduction of slavery is prohibited. The Con- 
stitution can only be altered by a convention. 

GENERAL liEMARKS. 

1. Farms somewhat improved, are almost 
daily exchanging owners, and a considerable 
spirit of enterprise has been awakened within 
a year v r two past. The prices of farms and 
improvements vary greatly, and are influenced 
much by factitious and local circumstances. 
From St. Clair county northward, they average 
probably from five to ten dollars per acre, and 
are rising in value. In some counties, farms 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 313 

will cost from 2 to 5 dollars per acre. A 
farm in Illinois, however, means a tract of land, 
much of it in a state of nature, with some 
cheap, and, frequently, log buildings, with 20, 
40, 60, 80, or 100 acres, fenced and cultivated. 
Good dwellings of brick, stone, or wood, 
begin to be erected. Amongst the older res- 
idents, there have been but few barns made. 
The want of adequate supplies of lumber, 
and of mechanics, renders good buildings more 
expensive than in the new countries of New 
England or New York. 

2. Merchant's goods, groceries, household 
furniture, and almost every necessary and 
comfort in house-keeping, can be purchased 
here ; and many articles retail at about the same 
prices as in the Atlantic States. 

3. The following table will exhibit the cost 
of 320 acres of land, at Congress price, and 
preparing 160 acres for cultivation or prairie 
land: 

Cost of 320 acres at $1,25 per acre, §400 
Breaking up 160 acres prairie, §2 per 

acre, 320 

Fencing it into four fields with a Ken- 
tucky fence of eight rails high, with 

cross stakes, 175 

Add cost of cabins, corncribs, stable, &.c. 250 
Making the cost of the farm, $1145 

In many instances, a single crop of wheat 
will pay for the land, for fencing, breaking up, 
cultivating, harvesting, threshing, and taking 
to market. 



314 peck's guide 

4. All kinds of mechanical labor, especially 
those in the building line, are in great de- 
mand; and workmen, even very coarse and 
common workmen, get almost any price 
they ask. Journeymen mechanics get ^2 per 
day. A carpenter or brick mason wants no 
other capital, to do first rate business, and 
soon become independent, than a set of tools, 
and habits of industry, sobriety, economy and 
enterprise. 

5. Common laborers on the farm obtain 
/rom gl2 to $15 per month, including 

board. Any young man, with industrious 
habits, can begin here without a dollar, and 
in a very fev/ years become a substantial 
farmer. A good cradler in the harvest field 
will earn from $1,50 to $2 per day. 

6. Much that we have stated in reference 
to Illinois, will equally apply to Missouri, or 
any other Western State. Many general prin- 
ciples have been laid down, and particular 
facts exhibited, with respect to the general 
description of the State, soil, timber, kinds of 
land, and other characteristics, under Illinois, 
and, to save repetition, are omitted elsewhere. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 3l5 



CHAPTER XII. 



MISSOURI. 

Length, 278; medium breadth, 235 miles: 
containing 64,500 square miles, and contain- 
ing 41,280,000 acres. 

Bounded north by the Des Moines country, 
or New Purchase, attached to Wisconsin Ter- 
ritory, west by the Indian Territory, south by 
Arkansas, and east by the Mississippi river. 
Between 36° and 40° SI' N. latitude, and be- 
tween 11° 15' and 17° 30' west longitude. 

Civil Divisions .--^It is divided into 50 coun- 
ties, as follows: — Barry, Benton, Boone, Cal- 
laway, Cape Girardeau, Carroll, Chaviton, 
Clay, Clinton, Cole, Cooper, Crawford, Frank- 
lin, Gasconade, Green, Howard, Jackson, Jef- 
ferson, Johnson, La Fayette, Lewis, Lincoln, 
Madison, Marion, Munroe, Montgomery, Mor- 
gan, New Madrid, Perry, Pettis, Pike, Polk, 
Pulaski, Randolph, Ralls, Ray, Ripley, Rives, 
St. Francois, St. Genevieve, St. Charles, St. 
Louis, Saline, Scott, Shelby, Stoddart, Van 
Buren, Warren, Washington, and Wayne. 



816 peck's guide 



POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS, 



Population 
1810, (including Arkansas,) 19,8;« 

1820, 66,586 

1824, 80,000 

1830, 140,4.'J5 

1832, 176,276 

1836, (estimated for Jan'y.) 210,000 



Increase. 

From 1810 to 1820, 46,753 

" 1820" 1824, 14,500 

" 1824" 1830, 60,455 

" 1830" 1832, 35,820 

" 1832" 1836, 33,724 



The Constitution is similar to that of Illinois, 
in its broad features, excepting the holding 
of slaves is allowed, and the General Assem- 
bly has no power to pass laws for the emanci- 
pation of slaves, without the consent of their 
owners, or paying an equivalent. It is made 
the duty of the General Assembly "to oblige 
the owners of slaves to treat them v/ith hu- 
manity, and to abstain from all injuries to 
them extending to life or limb." "Slaves 
shall not be deprived of an impartial trial by 
jury." In 1832, there were in the State, 
32,184 slaves, and 661 free colored persons. 
Every free white male citizen has the right of 
suffrage, after a residence in the State of one 
year. 

Surface, Soil and Productions. — The surface 
of this State is greatly diversified. South of 
Cape Girardeau, with the exception of some 
bluffs along the Mississippi, it is entirely allu- 
vial, and a large proportion consists of swamp 
and inundated lands, the most of which are 
heavily timbered. From thence to the Mis- 
souri river, and westward to the dividing 
grounds between the waters of the Osage and 
Gasconade rivers, the country is generally 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 317 

timbered, rolling, and in some parts, quite 
hilly. No part of Missouri, however, is strictly 
mountainous. Along the waters of Gasconade 
and Black rivers the hills are frequently abrupt 
and rocky, with strips of rich alluvion along 
the water courses. Much of this region 
abounds with minerals of various descriptions. 
Lead, iron, coal, gypsum, manganese, zinc, 
antimony, cobalt, ochre of various kinds, com- 
mon salt, nitre, plumbago, porphyry, jasper, 
chalcedony, buhrstone, marl)le, and freestone, 
of various qualities. The lead and iron ore 
are literally exhaustless, and of the richest 
quality. To say there is probably iron ore 
enough in this region to supply the United 
States with iron for one hundred thousand 
years to come, would not be extravagant. 
Here, too, is water power in abundance, rapid 
streams, with pebbly beds, forests of timber, 
and exhaustless beds of bituminous coal. 
The only difficulty of working this vast body 
of minerals is the inconvenience of getting its 
proceeds to the Mississippi. The streams that 
rise in this region, run different courses into 
the Missouri, the Mississippi, and the Arkan- 
sas, but they are too rapid and winding in 
their courses to afford safe and easy naviga- 
tion. 

Were the rafts now lodged in the St. Fran- 
cois, removed by the agency of government, 
as they have been in Red river, the lower sec- 
tion of the mineral country could be reached 
by steamboat navigation. The citizens of St. 
14 



318 peck's guide 

Louis, very recently, have entered upon the 
project of a railway from that city, through 
the heart of this country, to the fine farming 
lands in the south-western part of the State. 
Such a project, carried into effect, would open 
a boundless field of wealth in Missouri. 

The western part of the State is divided into 
prairie and forest land, much of which is fer- 
tile. Along the Osage, it is hilly, and the 
whole is undulating, and regarded as a healthy 
region, abounding with good water, salt 
springs, and limestone. North of the Missouri 
the face of the country is diversified, with a 
mixture of timber and prairie. From the Mis- 
souri to Salt river, good springs are scarce, 
and in several counties it is difficult to obtain 
permanent water by digging wells. Artificial 
wells, as they may be called, are made by dig- 
ging a well forty or fifty feet deep, and replenish- 
ing it with a current of rain water from the roof 
of the dwelling house. Much of the prairie land 
in this part of the State is inferior to the first 
quality of prairie land in Illinois, as the soil 
is more clayey, and does not so readily ab- 
sorb the water. Between Salt river and Des 
Moines, is a beautiful and rich country of land. 
The counties of Ralls, Marion, Monroe, Lewis 
and Shelby, are first rate. The counties of 
Warren, Montgomery, Callaway, Boone, How- 
ard, and Chaviton, all lying on the north side 
of the Missouri river, are rolling, — in some 
places are bluffs and hills, with considerable 
good prairie, and an abundance of timbered 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 319 

land. Farther west, the proportion of prairie 
increases to the boundary line, as it does to 
the northward of Boone, Howard and Chaviton 
counties. After making ample deductions for 
inferior soil, ranges of barren hills, and large 
tracts of swamp, as in the south, the State of 
Missouri contains a vast proportion of excel- 
lent farming land. The people generally are 
enterprising, hardy and industrious, and most 
of those who hold slaves, perform labor with 
them. Emigrants from every State and several 
countries of Europe, are found here, but the 
basis of the population is from Kentucky, Ten- 
nessee and Virginia. The natural productions 
of Missouri are similar to those States already 
described, and the agricultural productions are 
the same as in Illinois, except that more tobac- 
co is produced in the middle, and considerable 
quantities of cotton in the southern counties. 

Towns. — The city of Jefferson is the political 
capital of the State. It is situated on the right 
bank of the Missouri, a few miles above the 
mouth of the Osage, and about 138 miles from 
St. Louis. It is a small town, with little busi- 
ness, except what pertains to the government of 
the State. A state house, governor's house 
and penitentiary have been erected. 

St. Louis is the commercial capital, and the 
most important place in all this portion of the 
Valley of the Mississippi. It stands on the 
western bank of the Mississippi, 180 miles 
above the junction of the Ohio, 18 miles below 
that of the Missouri, and 38 miles below that 



S20 



of the Illinois. It is beautifully situaiJd on 
ascending and elevated ground, which spreads 
out into an undulating surface to the west for 
many miles. Two streets are parallel with 
the river on the first bank, and the rest of the 
city stands on the second bank; but very little 
grading is necessary, to give the streets run- 
ning back from the river, their proper inclina- 
tion. The old streets, designed only for a 
French village, are too narrow for public con- 
venience, but a large part of the city has been 
laid out on a liberal scale. The Indian and 
Spanish trade, the fur and peltry business, 
lead, government agencies, army supplies, 
surveys of government lands, with the regular 
trade of an extensive interior country, makes 
St. Louis a place of great business, in propor- 
tion to its population, which is about 10,000. 
The following, from the register of the 
wharf master, will exhibit the commerce for 
1835: 

STEAMBOAT REGISTER. 

Number of different boats arrived, - 121 

Aggregate of tonnage, - - 15,470 

Number of arrivals, - - - 803 

Wharfage collected, - - - ^^4,573 60 

Wood and Lumber, liable to Wharfage. 
Plank, joist, and scantling, 1,414,330 feet. 

Shingles, 148,000 

Cedar posts, - - - _ _ 7,706 
Cords of fire-wood, - - - 8,066 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 321 

The proportionate increase of business will 
be seen by reference to the following registry 
for 1831: 

Different steamboats arrived, - 60 
Average amount of tonnage, - 7,769 
Number of entries, _ _ _ 532 

The morality, intelligence and enterprise of 
this city is equal to any other in the West, in 
proportion to its size. The American popu- 
lation is most numerous, but there are many 
French, Irish and Germans. About one 
third of the inhabitants are Roman Catholics. 
The Presbyterians, Methodists, and Episco- 
palians have large congregations and houses 
of worship: the Baptists and Unitarians are 
rather small, and without public edifices. The 
Roman Catholic cathedral is a costly pile of 
buildings of freestone, and has a splendid 
chime of bells, sent over from Europe. St. 
Louis is a pleasant and healthy situation, and 
surrounded with a fertile country. 

We have not space to give particulars re- 
specting many interesting and flourishing 
towns in Missouri. 

Cape Girardeau is a commercial depot for 
the southern part of the State. St. Genevieve 
stands a little back from the river, and is known 
only as an old French village. 

Selma is a landing and depot for the lead 
mine country, 38 miles below St. Louis. 

Clarksville, Hannibal, Saverton, and La 
Grange are commercial sites on the Mississip- 



322 peck's guide 

pi, above the mouth of Missouri. Palmyra is 
a beautiful toAvn, of about 1,000 inhabitants, 
and the seat of justice for Marion county. 
Along the Missouri are Portland, Rocheport, 
Boonville, Lexington, Independence, andmany 
other places of various degrees of importance. 
Franklin formerly stood on the north bank of 
Missouri, but most of it has been removed, 
three miles interior, to the bluffs. Potosi is 
a central town, in the mineral district. Fulton, 
Columbia, and Fayette are the seats of justice 
for Callaway, Boone, and Howard counties, 
and are pleasant and flourishing towns. 

About the same provision for education has 
been made in this as in other Western States, 
and a disposition to encourage schools, acade- 
mies and colleges is fast increasing. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 



323 



CHAPTER XIII 



ARKANSAS, AND TERRITORIAL DISTRICTS. 



Arkansas, which has recently formed a con- 
stitution, lies between 33° and 36° 30' N. lati- 
tude, and between 13° 30' and 17° 45' W. 
longitude. Length, 235; medium breadth, 
222 miles; — containing about 50,000 square 
miles, and 32,000,000 acres. 

Civil Divisioiis. — The following are the 
counties, with the population, from the census 
taken in 1835: 

Counties. Population. 

Lawrence, 3,844 

Miller, 1,373 

Mississippi, 600 



Counties. Population. 

Arkansas, 2,080 

Carroll, 1,357 

Chicot, 2,471 

Conway, ] ,214 

Clark, 1,28.5 

Crawford, 3,139 

Crittenden, 1,407 

Greene, 971 

Hempstead, 2,955 

Hot-Spring, 6,117 

Independence, 2,653 

Izard, 1,879 

Jackson, 891 

Jefferson, 1,474 

Johnson, 1 ,803 

La Fayette, 1 ,446 



ixMonroe, 556 

Phillips, 1,518 

Pike, 449 

Pope, 1,318 

Pulaski, 3,513 

ScoU, 100 

Sevier, 1 ,350 

St. Francis, 1 ,896 

Union, 878 

Van Buren, 855 

Washington, 6,742 

Total, 58,212 



324 PECK^S GUIDE 

Another table we have seen, makes out the 
population, as officially reported (with the ex- 
ception of two counties, from which returns 
had not been made,) to be 51,809; — white 
males, 22,535; white females, 19,386; — total 
whites, 41,971: slaves, 9,629;— free persons 
of color, 209. The population, in 1830, 
30,388;— in 1833, 40,660. 

The following graphical description of Ar- 
kansas, from the pen of a clergyman in that 
State, is corroborated by testimony in our pos- 
session, from various correspondents. It was 
written in 1835. 

Letter from Rev. Harvey Woods, to the Editor of 
the Cincinnati Journal. 

" Arkansas Territory is a part of that vast 
country ceded to the United States by France, 
in 1803. From the time of the purchase, till 
lately, the tide of emigration hardly reached 
thus far. In 1800, the population was 1052. 
Arkansas was erected into a Territory in 1819.. 
At this time it is receiving a share of those 
who retire beyond the Mississippi. 

Rivers. — The Territory is admirably inter- 
sected with navigable rivers. The Mississippi 
on the east, the Great Red river on the south. 
Between these, and running generally from N. 
W. to S. E. are the St. Francis, White, Ar- 
kansas, and Washitau rivers; all fine streams 
for steamboat navigation. 

Face of the Coimtry. — It is various. No 
country affords more diversified scenery. The 
country in the east, for 100 miles, is flat with 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 325 

marshes and swamps; in the middle, broken 
and hilly; and in the west, hilly and mountain- 
ous. There are some prairies, some thickly 
timbered land, some heavy timbered. The 
country is generally a timbered country. 
Some parts are sandy, some rocky, and some 
flinty. 

Soil. — Should a man travel here, and expect 
to find all good land, he would be sadly disap- 
pointed. The best lands are generally con- 
tiguous to the rivers and creeks; and these 
are exceedingly fertile, not surpassed by any 
soil in the United States. Arkansas soil that 
is rich, has just sand enough to make it lively 
and elastic. Our best lands are covered with 
walnut, hackberry, mulberry, oak, ash, grape 
vines, &c. 

Water. — The hilly and mountainous parts 
are well supplied with springs, limestone, and 
freestone. Also good streams for mills. In 
the flat country, good water is easily obtained 
by digging. 

Productions. — Cotton and corn are the prin- 
cipal. The Arkansas cottons commanded the 
best price last season, in the Liverpool mar- 
ket. It is a country of unequalled advantages 
for raising horses, mules, cattle and hogs. 

Climate. — It is mild, and from its difference 
in latitude, say from 32° 40' to 36° 30' N., and 
the difference in local situation, we would 
guess, and correctly too, that there is much 
difference in the health of different places; 
the high and northern parts healthy, and the 
flat and southern subject to agues and bilious 



326 peck's guide 

fevers. The climate has been considered un- 
healthy to new settlers; but it is not more so 
than other new countries. 

Minerals. — There are quantities of iron, 
lead, coal, salt, and, it is asserted by some, 
silver. There are many salt and sulphur 
springs. On the Arkansas river, beyond the 
limits of the Territory proper, is a section of 
country called the salt prairie, which, accord- 
ing to good authority, is covered for many 
miles, from four to six inches deep, with pure 
white salt. In the Hot Spring country, are 
the famous hot springs, much resorted to by 
persons of chronic and paralytic diseases. 
The temperature, in dry, hot weather, is at boil- 
ing point. 

State of Society. — The general character of 
the people is brave, hardy, and enterprising — 
frequently without the polish of literature, yet 
kind and hospitable. The people are now rap- 
idly improving in morals and intellect. They 
are as ready to encourage schools, the preach- 
ing of the gospel, and the benevolent enter- 
prises of the age, as any people in new coun- 
tries. The consequences of living here a long 
time without the opportunity of educating their • 
children, and destitute of the means of grace, 
are, among this population, just what they al- 
ways will be under similar circumstances. 
Ministers of all denominations are "few and 
far between." We have no need here to build 
on other's foundation. 

I am living in Jackson county, on White 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 327 

river. This county has a larger quantity of 
good land than any one in the Territory. 
White river is always navigable for steam- 
boats to this place, 350 miles from its mouth. 
Well-water is good, — some fine springs. 
Washington county, and some others, that 
have the reputation of better health, are more 
populous. 

We want settlers; and we have no doubt 
that vast numbers of families in the States, par- 
ticularly the poor, and those in moderate cir- 
cumstances, would better their situation by 
coming here, where they can get plenty offer- 
tile and fresh land at government price, $^1,25 
per acre. They can have good range, and all 
the advantages of new countries. Emigrants, 
however, ought not to suffer themselves to ex- 
pect all sunshine, and no winter. We have 
cloudy days and cold weather, even in Arkan- 
sas! If they have heard of the honey pond, 
where flitters grow on trees, they need not be 
surprised if they don't find it. Cabins cannot 
be built, wells dug, farms opened, rails made, 
and meeting-houses and school-houses erected, 
without work. 

It may be asked, " If Arkansas be so fine a 
country, why has it not been settled faster?" 
There are perhaps three reasons; — a fear of 
the Indians, a fear of sickness, a fear of bad 
roads. The Indians are now all peaceably 
situated beyond the Territory proper, and are 
blessed with the labors of a number of good 
pious missionaries, who are teaching them to 



328 peck's guide 

read the Bible, and showing the tall sons of 
the forest the way that leads to heaven. Sick- 
ness is no more to be dreaded here than in Illi- 
nois and Missouri. The roads have indeedbeen 
bad. — For a long time, no one could venture 
through the Mississippi swamps, unless he was 
a Daniel Boone. But appropriations have been 
made by Congress for several roads. This 
summer, roads from Memphis to Little Rock, 
and to Litchfield and Batesville, and other 
points, will be completed. An appropriation 
of upwards of ^100,000 has been made to con- 
struct a road through the Mississippi swamp. 

Again: we want settlers — we want physi- 
cians, lawyers, ministers, mechanics and farm- 
ers. We want such, however, and only such 
as will make good neighbors. If any who 
think of coming to live with us, are gamblers, 
drunkards. Sabbath-breakers, profane swear- 
ers, or the like, we hope that when they leave 
their old country, they will leave their old 
habits." 

We have not seen the Constitution of this 
State, now pending before Congress for ad- 
mission into the Union, but understand that its 
essential principles are the same as that of 
the other Western States. 

W^iscoNsiN Territory. 
Under this name is now comprehended an 
extensive district of country, lying on both sides 
of the Mississippi river, above Illinois and Mis- 
souri, and extending indefinitely north. That 



rOR EMIGRANTS. 3^9 

portion lying betwixt the northern boundary of 
Illinois and the Wisconsin river, and from lake 
Michigan to the Mississippi, has the Indian 
title extinguished, and, in part, has been sur- 
veyed and brought into market. There is much 
excellent land in this part of the Territory, and 
it is well watered with perennial streams and 
springs. Offices are opened for the sale of 
public lands, at Mineral Point and Green Bay, 
and a large amount has been sold, and some 
at a high price. The country immediately 
bordering on lake Michigan, is well timbered, 
with various trees. Here are red, white, 
black and burr oaks, beech, ash, linden, pop- 
lar, walnut, hickory, sugar and v/hite maple, 
elm, birch, hemlock, and pine, with many 
other kinds. The soil is not so deep and dark 
a mould as in the prairies of Illinois, but is 
fertile and easily cultivated; and sandy, es- 
pecially about the town of Green Bay. To- 
wards the lake, and near the body of water 
called Sturgeon Bay, connected with Green 
Bay, and between that and the lake, are ex- 
tensive swamps and cranberry marshes. Wild 
rice, tamarisk, and spruce, grow here. About 
Rock river and from thence to the Mississippi, 
there is much excellent land, but a deficiency 
of timber. Lead and copper ore, and probably 
other minerals, abound in this part of the coun- 
try. Along to the east and north of the Four 
lakes, are alternate quagmires and sand ridges, 
for 50 miles or more, called by the French 
courcurs dubois, " Terre Tremblant,^^ (trem- 



mo 



bling land,) the character of which is sufficient- 
ly indicated by the name. 

There are several small lakes in the district 
of country we are now examining, the largest 
of which is Winnebago. It is situated 30 or 40 
miles south of Green Bay, — is about ten miles 
long, and three broad, and is full of wild rice. 
Fox river passes through it. Kushkanong is 
six or eight miles in diameter, with some 
swamps and quagmires in its vicinity. It is on 
Rock river, between Catfish and Whitewater. 

The Four lakes are strung along on a stream 
called Catfish, which enters Rock river 25 or 
30 miles above the boundary of Illinois. They 
are 6 or 8 miles long, abounding with fish, and 
are surrounded with an excellent farming 
country. 

Green Bay settlement and village is 230 
miles north of Chicago, 220 north-east from 
Galena, 120 from Fort Winnebago, and in N. 
latitude 44° 44'. JVavarino is a town recently 
commenced in this vicinity, with an excellent 
harbor, grows rapidly, and bids fair to become 
a place of importance. Property has risen the 
last year most astonishingly. 

Fort Winnebago is a military post, at the 
bend, and on the right bank of Fox river, op- 
posite the portage. From thence to the Wis- 
consin, is a low wet prairie, of three fourths of 
a mile, through which, a company has been 
chartered to cut a canal. On this route, the 
first explorers reached the Mississippi in 1673. 
The Wisconsin river, however, without con- 



lOR EMIGRANTS. ^^1 

siderable improvement, is not navigable for 
steamboats, at ordinary stages of the water, 
without much trouble. It is full of bars, 
islands, rocks, and has a devious channel. 

The streams that rise in the eastern part of 
this Territory, and flow into lake Michigan, 
north of the boundary of Illinois, tire in order 
as follows: Pipe creek, a small stream, but a 
few miles from the boundary, — Root river 
next, — then Milwaukee, 90milesfrom Chicago. 
It rises in the swampy country, south of 
Winnebago lake, runs a south-easterly course, 
and, after receiving the Menomone, forms 
Milwaukee bay. Here is a town site, on 
both sides of the river, with a population of 
six or eight hundred, which promises to be- 
come a place of business. The soil up the 
Milwaukee is good, from 6 to 12 inches in 
depth, a black loam and sand. 

Passing northward down the lake is Oak 
creek, 9 miles below Milwaukee, — thence 21 
miles is Sauk creek, a small stream. Seventy 
miles from Milwaukee is Shab-wi-wi-a-gun. 
Here is found white pine, maple, beech, birch 
and spruce, but very little oak: the surface 
level and sandy. Pigeon river is 15 or 20 
miles further on, with excellent land on its 
borders; — timber, — maple, ash, beech, linden, 
elm, &.C. Fifteen miles further down, is 
Manatawok. Here commences the hem- 
lock, with considerable pine. This stream is 
about 40 or 50 miles from Green Bay settle- 
ment. Twin rivers are below Manatawok, 



332 



PECK S GUIDE 



with sandy soil, and good timber of pine and 
other varieties. From Milwaukee to Green 
Bay, by a surveyed route, is 112 miles; — by 
the Indian trail, commonly travelled, 135 miles. 
North of the Wisconsin river, is Crawford 
county, of which Prairie du Chien is the seat 
of justice. From the great bend at Fort 
Winnebago across towards the Mississippi is 
a series of abrupt hills, rising several hundred 
feet, and covered with a dense forest of elm, 
linden, oak, walnut, ash, sugar maple, &c. 
The soil is rich, but is too hilly and broken 
for agricultural purposes. There is no ai* 
luvial soil, or bottoms along the streams, or 
grass in the forests. 

The Wisconsin river rises in an unex- 
plored country towards lake Superior. The 
coureurs du hois, and voyageurs represent it 
as a cold, mountainous, dreary region, with 
swamps. 

West of the Mississippi, above Des Moines, 
and extending northward to a point some 
distance above the northern boundary of 
Illinois, and for 50 miles interior, is a valuable 
country, purchased of the Indians in 1 832. 
Its streams rise in the great prairies, run an 
east or south-eastern course into the Mis- 
sissippi. The most noted are Flint, Skunk, 
Wau-be-se-pin-e-con, Upper and Lower Iowa 
rivers, and Turkey, Catfish, and Big and 
Little Ma-quo-ka-tois, or Bear creeks. The 
soil, in general, is excellent, and very much 
resembles the military tract in Illinois. The 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 333 

water is excellent, — plenty of lime, sand and 
freestone, — extensive prairies, and a deficiency 
of timber a few miles interior. About Du- 
buque, opposite Galena, aie extensive and rich 
lead mines. Burlington is a town containing 
a population of 700, at the Flint hills opposite 
Warren county, Illinois. Dubuque is situated 
on the Mississippi, on a sandy bottom, above 
high water, and 14 miles N. W. from Galena. 
It'has about 60 stores and groceries, 2 taverns, 
2 churches, and about 1000 inhabitants, and 
we have before us the prospectus for the 
"Dubuque Visiter," a weekly newspaper. 
Peru is in the vicinity, and contains about 
500 inhabitants. The New Purchase, as this 
district of country is called, is divided into 
two counties, Dubuque, and Des Moines, and 
contains a population of 8 or 10,000. The 
whole Wisconsin Territory is estimated by 
its legislature, now in session, to contain 
30,000 inhabitants. 

Hitherto, for civil purposes, this region has 
formed a part of Michigan Territory, and still 
its legislature acts under that name; but a bill 
is before Congress to organize a territorial 
government under the name of Wisconsin, 
which doubtless will be effected in a few 
weeks. Not many years will elapse before 
two new States will be formed out of this dis- 
trict of country, the one on the eastern, and 
the other on the western, side of the Mis- 
sissippi. 

14* 



334 peck's guide 



CHAPTER XIV. 



LITERARY AND RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS FOR THE 
WEST. 

Colleges; — Statistical Sketches of each Denomination; — 
Roman Catholics; — Field for etFort, and pi-ogress made. 

In giving a sketch of literary and religious 
institutions in the West, the very limited 
space remaining to be occupied in this work, 
compels me to throw together a few general 
facts only. The author has made some pro- 
gress in collecting materials, and he designs 
to prepare another work soon, in which a 
variety of particulars and sketches will be 
given of the early history, progress of literary 
and religious institutions, colleges, seminaries, 
churches, Bible, Sunday school, education and 
other kindred societies in the Western Valley, 
with the present aspect of each denomination 
of Christians. The interest taken in the 
affairs of the West, and the anxiety evinced 
by the community for facts and particulars on 
those subjects, demand that they should be 
treated more in detail than the limits of this 
Guide will allow. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 335 

I. Colleges. 
Western Pennsylvania — Has Jefferson 
College, at Canonsburgh, which the Presbyte- 
rians originated in 1802, from the first grammar 
school ever established by Protestants west of 
the Alleghany mountains. Graduates, in 1835, 
46; new students admitted, 75; present No. 
230, (including the preparatory department,) 
of which 135 profess religion. Course of 
mathematics and physical sciences greatly 
extended, with practical application to civil 
engineering. Instruction provided in Hebrew, 
French, Spanish, German, Portuguese, and 
Italian: — provision for manual labor. — Ex- 
penses moderate. 

Washington College, at Washington, Pa., 
also connected with the Presbyterian denomina- 
tion, founded in 1806; — had 140 students in 
1832. Jilleghany College at Meadville, was 
founded in 1815, by Rev. T. Alden, has a 
valuable library of 8000 vohimes, principally 
the donation of the late Rev. Dr. Bentley, of 
Salem, Mass., a distinguished benefactor ol 
this institution. The college did not flourish 
for some years, and it is now transferred 
to the Methodist Episcopal church, and is 
under charge of the Pittsburg Conference. 
It now promises to be successi'ul. 

The JVestern Universiiy of Pennsylvania was 
founded in 1820. The number of graduates, 
in 1832, was 50; of under graduates in all 
departments, 70. A beautiful college cdilice 
has been erected in the western part of 
Pittsburg, for this institution. 



336 peck's guide 

There is no collegiate institution in Western 
Virginia. 

Ohio. — Ohio U}iiversiiy, at Athens, was 
founded in 1802; — has an endowment of 
46,030 acres of land, which yields §2,300 
annually. A large and elegant edifice of 
brick was erected in 1817. The number of 
students about 90. Miami University, was 
founded in 1824, and is a flourishing institu- 
tion at Oxford, Butler county, 37 miles from 
Cincinnati. It possesses the township of land 
in which it is situated, and from which it re- 
ceives an income of about §5000. Number of 
students about 200. Patronized by Presby- 
terians. The Cincinnati College was incor- 
porated in 1819, continued to be sustained as 
a classical institution for some years, and 
then suspended operations. It has been I'e- 
vived and re-organized lately, and will proba- 
bly be sustained. Kenijyn College, at Gambier, 
Knox county, in a central part of the State, 
was established in 1823, through the efforts 
of Rev. Philander Chase, then bishop of the 
Ohio Diocess, who obtained about §30,000 in 
England to endow it. Its chief patrons were 
those excellent British noblemen. Lords Ken- 
yon and Gambier. It is under Episcopal 
jurisdiction, and has a theological department, 
for the education of candidjites for the ministry 
in the Episcopal church. It has about 150 
students. Western Reserve College is at Hud- 
son. It was founded by Pres])yterians and 
Congregationalists in 1828, and has 82 students 
in all its departments. Fraukiin College is in 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 337 

New Athens, Harrison county, on the eastern 
side of the State, and has about 50 students. 
The Granville Literarij and Theological Institu- 
(ion originated under patronage of the Baptist 
denomination in 1831. It is designed to em- 
brace four departments, — preparatory, En- 
glish, collegiate, and theological. It is rapidly 
rising, and contains more than 100 students. 
Obevlin Institute has been recently established 
in Lorrain county, under the influence of 
•'new measure" Presbyterians, with four de- 
partments, and has 276 students, as follows: 
In the theological department, 35; collegiate, 
37; preparatory, 31; female, 73. The citi- 
zens of Cleveland have recently contributed 
to it ^15,000, of which six persons gave 
5^1000 each. The WiUihough Collegiate In- 
stitute is in the lake country of Ohio, and has 
been gotten up within a few years past. The 
Marietta Collegiate Institute is said to be a 
flourishing and respectable institution, having 
a large number of students in various de- 
partments. 

Indiana. — Indiana college is a State institu- 
tion, established at Bloomington, and com- 
menced operations in 1828. Present number 
of students not known. In 1832 the number 
exceeded 50. 

Hanover College is at South Hanover, six 
miles below the town of Madison, and near 
the Ohio river. It is a flourishing institution, 
witli arrangements for manual labor, and is 
styled "South Hanover College and Indiana 
Theological Seminary." The number of stu- 



338 peck's guide 

dents exceed 100. Wabash College, at Craw- 
fordsville, has just commenced operations un- 
der auspicious circumstances. Under patron- 
age of the Presbyterians. 

Illinois. — Illinois College, near Jackson- 
ville, commenced as a preparatory school in 
1830, and has made rapid progress. Large 
funds for its endowment have been recently 
provided in the Eastern States. The number 
of students about 80. 

Shurtleff College of Alton, Illinois, was com- 
menced under the efforts of Baptists at Alton 
in 1832, as a preparatory institution; — charter- 
ed as a college in February, 1835, and has 
been recently named in honor of a liberal 
patron, Dr. Benjamin Shurtleff, of Boston. 
Mass., who has presented the institution witli 
$10,000. It has 60 students, and its prospects 
are encouraging. McKendreean College has 
been chartered, a building erected, and a 
school commenced at Lebanon. It is con- 
nected with the Methodist Episcopal Church. 
Charters have been recently granted for other 
colleges in this State, and measures adopted 
to bring some of them into existence. The 
Rev. Philander Chase, whose persevering 
labors brought into existence and successful 
operation, Kenyon college in Ohio, and who 
is now bishop of Illinois, is at present in 
England, where, by recent advices, he has ob- 
tained $50,000 to invest in Illinois lands, and 
to establish a college for the interests of the 
Episcopal church. 

Missouri. — The Roman Catholics have two 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 339 

institutions of a collegiate character, establish- 
ed in this State. St. Martfs College, in Perry 
county, was established by Bishop Du Bourg, 
in 1822. It has 6,000 volumes in the library. 
Including the nunnery, and school for females, 
a seminary for the education of jjriests, a pre- 
paratory, and a primary school, the number of 
teachers and students are about 300. 

St. Louis University was founded in 1829, and 
is conducted by the Fathers of the society of 
Jesuits, The edifice is 130 feet, by 40, of 4 
stories, including the basement, and is situated 
on elevated and pleasant ground, on the con- 
fines of the city. 

For the Protestants, the following institu- 
tions have been established. Columbia Col- 
lege, adjacent to Columbia, Boon county. 
The institution opened in 1835, under encour- 
aging circumstanses. Marion College is in a 
delightful tract of country, a prairie region, in 
the western part of Michigan county, — and has 
between 80 and 100 students. It is connected 
with the Presbyterian interests. The project 
as developed by some of its founders, is an 
immense one, including English, scientific, 
classical, theological, medical, agricultural, 
and law departments, — all to be sustained by 
manual labor, and the proceeds of extensive 
farms. Doubtless, by prudent and persever- 
ing efforts, a respectable college may be 
brought into successful operation. A college 
at St. Charles, has been founded, principally 
by the liberality of George Collier, a merchant 



540 PECK^S GUIDE 

of St. Louis, and two or three other gentlemen, 
and a classical and scientific school has been 
commenced. 

ArkAxVsas. — Efforts are making to establish 
a college by Presbyterian agency, at Cane 
Hill, in this newly formed State. Two or 
three collegiate institutions will soon be need- 
ed in this region, 

Kentucky. — Transylvania University, at 
Lexington, is the oldest collegiate institution 
in the West. It was commenced, by a grant 
of 8,000 acres of land by the legislature of 
Virginia, in 1783, and was then called "Tran- 
sylvania Seminary." The "Kentucky Acad- 
emy " was founded in 1794, and both institu- 
tions were united and incorporated in 1798, 
under the present name. It has classical, 
medical, law, and preparatory departments, — 
and including each, from 300 to 400 students. 

Center College, at Danville, was founded by 
the Presbyterian church, in 1818, for which 
the synod of Kentucky pledged $20,000. 
Number of students about 100. Augusta Col- 
lege was founded in 1822, by the Ohio and 
Kentucky conferences of the Methodist Epis- 
copal church. It adopted collegiate regula- 
tions in 1828. Number of students in the col- 
legiate, academical and primary departments, 
about 200. 

Cumberland College was incorporated in 
1824, and is established at Princeton, in the 
western part of the State. It is under the pa- 
tronage and jurisdiction of the Cumberland 



FOR ExMIGRANTS. 341 

Presbyterians. A farm, including a tract of 
5,000 acres of land, with -workshops, furnish 
facilities for manual labor. It has about 80 
students. 

St. Joseph's College is a Roman Catholic 
institution, at Bardstown, with college build- 
ings sufficient to accommodate 200 students, 
and valued at $^60,000. It commenced with 
4 students in 1820. In 1833 there were in the 
collegiate and preparatory departments, 120 
students. The St. Thomas and St. Mary 
Seminaries are also under the charge of 
Roman Catholic priests, the one in Nelson 
county, four miles from Bardstown, and the 
other in Washington county. 

A college was founded by the Baptists at; 
Georgetown in 1830, but from untoward cir- 
cumstances, is probably relinquished by the 
denomination. 

Tennessee. — The Universiiij of JVashville is 
a prominent institution. The laboratory is 
one of the finest in the United States, and the 
mineralogical cabinet, not exceeded, and this 
department, as well as every other in the col- 
lege, is superintended with much talent. The 
number of students is about 100. Greenville, 
Knoxville and Washington colleges are in East 
Tennessee. " Jackson College is about to be 
removed from its present site, and located at 
Columbia. ^25,000 have been subscribed for 
the purpose. A Presbyterian Theological 
Seminary is at Maryville. 

Mississippi. — Jefferson College is at Wash- 
15 



342 peck's guide 

ington, six miles from Natchez. It has not 
flourished as a college, and is now said to be 
conducted somewhat on the principle of a 
military academy. Oakland College has been 
recently founded by Presbyterians, and bids 
fair to exert a beneficial influence upon re- 
ligion and morals, much needed in that State. 
The Baptist denomination are taking measures 
to establish a collegiate institution in that 
State. 

LouisiAxXA — Has a college at Jackson, in 
the eastern part of the State, The Roman 
Catholics have a college at New Orleans. 

There is a respectable collegiate institution, 
under the fostering care of the Methodist 
Episcopal Church, at Lagrange, in the north- 
western part of Alabama. 

Academies have been established in various 
parts of the West, for both sexes, and there 
are female seminaries of character and stand- 
ing at Pittsburg, Cincinnati, Granville, Louis- 
ville, Lexington, Nashville, and many other 
places. Several more colleges, and a large 
number of minor institutions, will be need- 
ed very shortly to supply the demands for 
education in the West. The public mind is 
awake to the subject of education, and much 
has already been done, though a greater work 
has yet to be accomplished to supply the wants 
of the West in literary institutions. 

An annual convention is held in Cincinnati, 
on the first Monday in October, denominated 
the " Western Institute and College of Pro- 



POR EMICRANTS. 343 

fessional Teachers."" Its object, according to 
the constitution, is, "to promote by every 
laudable means, the diffusion of knowledge in 
regard to education, and especially by aiming 
at the elevation of the character of teachers, 
who shall have adopted instruction as their 
regular profession." The first meeting was 
held in 1831, under the auspices of the 
"Academic Institute," a previously existing 
institution, but of more limited operations. 
The second convention, in 1832, framed a con- 
stitution and chose officers, since which time 
regular meetings have been held by delegates 
or individuals from various parts of the West, 
and a volume of Transactions of 300 or 400 
pages published annually. 

II. Theological Institutions. 

The Western Theolooical Semi7ta7^y at Alio-* 
ghany town, opposite Pittsburg, is under the 
jurisdiction of the General Assembly of the 
Presbyterian Church. It commenced opera- 
tions in 1829. At Canonsbur^ is a seminary 
belonging to the Associate church, of which 
Dr. Ramsey is Professor. The Associate Re- 
formed church have a theological school in 
Pittsburg, under charge of the Rev. John T. 
Pressly D. D. The Baptist denomination are 
now engaged in establishing a manual labor 
academy in the vicinity of Pittsburg, for both 
ministerial and general education. 

The theological departments of Oberlin, 
Granville, and other collegiate institutions, 



S44 

have been noticed already. Lane Seminary^ 
near Cincinnati, was founded in 1830, by 
Messrs. E. & W. A. Lane, merchants, of New 
Orleans, who made a very liberal offer of aid. 
Its location is excellent, two and a half miles 
from Cincinnati, at Walnut Hills, and is under 
the charge of the Rev. Dr. Beecher, and a body 
of professors. Number of students about 40. 
The Hanover Jnstitutioii in Indiana, has been 
noticed already. In the theological depart- 
ment are three professors and 12 students. 
The Baptists in this State are about establish- 
ing a manual labor seminary for ministerial 
and general education. 

A valuable property has been purchased, 
adjoining Covington, Ky., opposite Cincinnati, 
and measures have been put in train to found 
a theological seminary by the Baptist denom- 
ination. The executive committee of the 
" Western Baptist Education Socieiij,^' have 
this object in charge. The ''Alton Theological 
Seminary,'" located at Upper Alton, Illinois, 
is under an organization distinct from that of 
Shurlleff College, already noticed. This in- 
stitution has 50 acres of valuable land, and a 
stone edifice of respectable size, occupied at 
present in joint concern with the college, 
and a valuable library of several hundred 
volumes. Its organization has been but re- 
cently effected. Rev. L. Colby, is professor, 
with 8 students. Other institutions, having 
theological education, either in whole or in 
part, their object, are in contemplation. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 345 

Two remarks, by way of explanation are 
here necessary. 1. Most of the colleges and 
theological schools of the Western Valley 
have facilities for manual labor, or are making 
that provision. In several, some of the stu- 
dents pay half, and even the whole of their 
expenses, by their own efforts. Public senti- 
ment is awake to this subject, and is gaining 
ground. 2. In enumerating the students, the 
members of the preparatory departments are 
included, many of whom do not expect to pass 
through a regular collegiate course. The 
circumstances and wants of the country, from 
its rapid growth, seem to require the appen- 
dage of a large preparatory department to 
every college. 

It may be well to observe here, that a great 
and increasing demand exists in all the West- 
ern States, and especially those bordering on 
the Mississippi, for teachers of primary schools. 
Hundreds and thousands of moral, intelligent, 
and pious persons, male and female, would 
meet with encouragement and success in this 
department of labor. It is altogether unneces- 
sary for such persons to write to their friends, 
to make inquiries whether there are openings, 
&c. If they come from the older States with 
the proper recommendations as to character 
and qualifications, they will not fail to meet 
with employment in almost any quarter to 
which they may direct their course. There 
is not a county in Missouri, Arkansas, Illinois, 
or Indiana, where persons would not meet with 



346 peck's guide 

constant employment in teaching, and es- 
pecially where teachers in Sabbath schools 
are needed. Persons desirous of such a 
field, of humble, yet useful labor, should 
come here with the fixed purpose to mix with, 
and conform to the usages of the Western 
population, to avoid fastidiousness, and to 
submit to the plain, frank, social, and hos- 
pitable manners of the people. 

III. Deaf and Dumb Asylums. 
There are two institutions of this descrip- 
tion in the West, — one at Columbus, Ohio; 
the other at Danville, Ky. The one in Ohio 
contains about 50 pupils. 

IV. Medical Institutions. 

The medical department in Transylvania 
University, Kentucky, has six professors, and 
usually about 200 students to attend the 
lectures. Fees for an entire course, with 
matriculation and library, ^^110. Two medical 
institutions of respectable standing exist in 
Cincinnati, — one connected with the Miami 
university, the other with Cincinnati college. 

The Ohio Reformed Medical School, was es- 
tablished at Worthington, 9 miles north of 
Columbus, in 1830. No specified time is re- 
quired for study, but when a student will pass 
examination, he is licensed to practice. 

V. Law Schools. 
The law department of Transylvania Uni- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 347 

versity, is under the charge of two able pro- 
fessors, who hear recitations and deliver 
lectures. The average number of students is 
about 40. 

A law school was established at Cincinnati, 
in 1833, with four professors, — Messrs. John 
C. Wright, John M. Goodenow, Edward King, 
and Timothy Walker. The bar, the institu- 
tion, and the city have recently sustained a 
severe loss in the decease of Mr. King. 

VI. Benevolent and Religious Societies. 

To enumerate and give particulars of all 
these, would make a volume. We can but 
barely call the attention of the reader to some 
of the more prominent organizations, amongst 
the diiFerent Christian denominations in this 
great Valley, for doing good. 

The Foreign Misaionanj Sociehj of the Valley 
of the Mississfijjpi, is a prominent auxiliary of 
the American JBoard of Commissioners for 
Foreign Missions. Its seat is Cincinn«iti, but 
by agencies and branches, it operates through- 
out the Valley. The Report of November, 
1835, states that cighie'^n thousand six hmdrcd 
and fifty eight dollars had been received into 
the treasury the preceding year. An edition 
of 3000 copies of the Missionary Herald is re- 
published in Cincinnati, lor circulation in the 
West. 

The Western Education Society, connected 
with the American Education Society, has al 
its seat of operations at Cincinnati. Auxil 



so 



348 PECK S GUIDE 

iaries also exist in most of the Western States. 
71 beneficiaries were under its charge at the 
last anniversary. 

The ^^nierican Tract Society has auxiliaries 
and agencies in most of the Western States. 
The operations of the American Bible Society, 
through its numerous auxiliaries, is felt to the 
remotest parts of the West. 

The American Sunday ScJwol Union has re- 
cently established a central agency in Cincin- 
nati, and is preparing to renew, and greatly 
enlarge its very important ejfforts for the 
benefit of the rising generation in the West. 

A series of very interesting anniversaries 
are held in Cincinnati, the first week in 
November, when all the great objects of 
Christian effort receive a renewed impulse. 

The American Hrme Missionary Society has 
more than 200 missionaries, laboring in the 
States, west of the mountains. In 1835, they 
assisted 217 Presbvterian ministers in this 
field. 

The Temperance Effort has not been neg- 
lected, and an interesting change is going 
forward, in a quiet and noiseless way, in the 
habits of the people, in reference to the use 
of intoxicating liquors. It is to be hoped that 
more prompt and vigorous efforts will be made 
to promote this cause, but even new, there are 
many thousands, who abstain from the use of 
spiritous liquors, without any formal pledge. 

The Methodist Episcopal Cliuri^h, in addi- 
tion to their regular system of circuits, are 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 349 

extending the influence of their denomination 
on the tVontiers, by missionary operations, and 
their labors are prospered. 

The Baplisf dcnominalion have made some 
important movements in the Western Valley 
within the last three years. Their Home 
Mission Society has nearly 100 missionaries 
in the West. In Novem.ber, 1833, the " Gen- 
eral Convention of Western Baptists/^ was organ- 
ized by more than 100 ministers and brethren, 
assembled from various parts of the West. 
It is not an ecclesiastical body, claiming 
jurisdiction either over churches or ministers, 
nor is it strictly a missionary body. Its 
business, according to the constitution, is "to 
promote by all lawful means, the following 
objects, to wit: — Missions both foreign and 
domestic; — ministerial education, for such 
as may have first been licensed by the church- 
es; Sunday schools, including Bible classes; 
religious periodicals; tract and temperance 
societies, as well as all others warranted by 
Christ in the gospel." 

At its second session, in 1834, the " fVest- 
ern Baptist Education Society^^ was formed. 
Its object is "tKe education of those who 
give evidence to the churches of which they 
are members, that God designs them for the 
ministry." The executive committee are 
charged temporarily, with establishing the 
Central Theological Seminary, already men- 
tioned, at Covington, Ky. 

Many other interesting associations for 



350 peck's guide 

humane, philanthropic, and religious purposes 
exist in the Valley, which are necessarily 
omitted. 

VII. The Periodical Press. 
The number of different periodicals pub- 
lished in the Valley of the Mississippi, must 
exceed 400, of which 12 or 15 are daily 
papers. There are 25 weekly periodicals in 
Mississippi, 116 in Ohio, 38 in Indiana, 19 in 
Illinois, 17 in Missouri, 3 and probably 
more, in Arkansas, 2 at least in Wisconsin 
Territory. The Wester-n Monthly Magazine, 
edited by James Hall, Esq , and published at 
Cincinnati is well known. The Weste7ii 
Journal of the Medical and Phijsical Sciences^ 
edited by Daniel Drake, M. D., Professor of 
Theory and Practice of Medicine in the 
Cincinnati College, is published quarterly, 
in Cincinnati. There are a number of re- 
ligious weekly, semi-monthly, and monthly 
periodicals, devoted to the interests of the 
principal denominations through the Valley. 
There are known to be at least one in West- 
ern Virginia, 2 in Western Pennsylvania, 7 in 
Ohio, 4 in Kentucky, 4 in Tennessee, 2 in 
Illinois, 2 in Missouri, and one in New 
Orleans. Supposing the average number of 
copies of Western periodicals equalled 750, 
this, estimating the different periodicals at 
400, would give 300,000. We see no marked 
and essential difference in the talent, with 
which the editorial press is conducted, betwixt 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 351 

the Eastern and Western States. The limits 
of this work will not allow me to add further 
evidence that our Western population is not 
all " illiterate," and that "not more than one 
person in ten can read," than the following 
epitome of the issues, of one of the publishing 
houses in Cincinnati, as exhibited in the Cin- 
cinnati Journal: 

" Western Enterprise. — The enterprise of 
the West is not generally appreciated. As a 
specimen, we have procured from Messrs. 
Corey & Webster the following list of books 
published by them within the last three years. 
These books, with the exception of the Life 
of Black-Hawk, are of sterling value. 

The Western Primer, 60,000; Webster's 
Spelling Book, 600,000; the Primary Reader, 
7,500; the Elementary Reader, 37,000; West- 
ern Reader, 16,000; Webster's History of the 
United States, 4000; Miss Beecher's Geogra- 
phy, 15,000; Pocket Testament, 6,500; 
Watts' and Select Hymns, 8000; Dr. Beech- 
er's Lectures on Scepticism, three editions, 
1000 each; Prof Stowe's Introduction to the 
Study of the Bible, 1500 ; the Christian Lyre, 
2000; Mitchell's Chemistry, 1000; Eberle 
on the Diseases of Children, 2000; Ditto 
Notes of Practice, 1500; Young Lady's 
Assistant in Drawing, 1000; Munsell's Map, 
3,500; Chase's Statutes of Ohio, three 
volumes, 1000; Hammond's Reports, 6th vol. 
500; total, seven hundred and seventy ci2;hl thou- 
sand two hundred and fJtyH! Probably some 



352 



PECK S GUIDE 



of the many other publishers in the city have 
got out nearly or quite as many books. Truly, 
we are a book-making and book-reading 
nation." 

VIII. Religious Denominations. 

In exhibiting the following statistics, entire 
correctness is not attempted. In some of the 
States, the latest reports have been had, — in 
others, the author has taken data of two or 
three years date. Of the numbers of some of 
the numerous sects existing, the opinions of 
individuals have been the chief data he could 
obtain. 

1. Baptists. 



Western Penn- 
sylvania, 
Western Virgini 

Ohio, 

Michigan, 

Indiana, 

Illinois, 



i 


2 


"2 




















= 


c 


E =^ 


JZ 






O 


s 


O 


50 


30 


2,569 


89 


481 3,30011 


33-2 


175 


13,926 


GO 30 


1,700 


3-20 175 


15,000 


240 


1U3 


6,741 



[Missouri, 

Arkansas, 

Louisiana, 

Mississippi, 

North Alabama, 

Tennrssee, 

Kentucky, 



348 292 
5581296 



11 



6,990 

700 

1,000 

4,000 

5,700 

22,868 

38,817 



Total, 2447 churches, 1353 ministers, and 
123,317 communicants. 

Periodicals. — The Cr-oss and Journal, weekly, 
and Baptist Advocate, monthly, at Cincinnati; 
— the Baptist Banner, weekly, at Shelbyville, 
Ky. ; — the Baptist, a large monthly quarto, at 
Nashville, Ten.; — the Pioneer, semi-monthly, 
at Rock Spring, but shortly to be enlarged, re- 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 



353 



moved to Upper Alton, and published weekly; 
— and the tVitncss, a small quarto, published 
weekly at Pittsburg. 

2. Methodists, (^Episcopal.) This denomina- 
tion is divided into Conferences, which are 
not arranged exactly with the boundaries of 
the States. A large book and printing-office 
is established at Cincinnati, where all the 
society's publications are kept for sale. 
Another depository is kept at Nashville. 



CoMFERENCES. 



Mississippi) 

Alabama, (one District, in tl 

Valley,) 

Pittsburg, 

Ohio, 

Missouri, (including Arkansas,) 

Kentucky, 

Illinois, 

Indiana, 

Holston, 

Tennessee, 

Total, 



J. 


2 
1 






<^ r- 


s 






..■^ 


a 


— • 


































TS 


Z: 


^ 


O 


c 
727 


55 


6,:j58 


2,G22 


Uj 


3,051 


49 




15(J 


4'), 155 


29ii 




'J()4 


f)2,68(i 


544 


217 


57 


7,948 


1,0(51 


889 


iUO 


25,777 


5,59-2 




GI 


15,0n8 


59 




70 


21,984 


229 




(iy 


91,559 


2,478 




1L>!I 


29,794 


5,043 


508 


901 


>37,:?50 


I8,4in 


2,341 



s s 

9,707 

3,543 
40,451 
63,447 

9,898 
31,3fi9 
15,097 
25,213 
24,031 
35,343 
258,101 



Allowing two local to one circuit preacher, 
which is rather under than over the propor- 
tion, would make 1802, which, added to the 
number of those whose names are on the 
Minutes of the Conferences, would make 2703 
Methodist Episcopal ministers of the gospel in 
the Valley of the Mississippi. The Pitts- 
burg Conference Journal, Western Christian 



S54 



peck's guide 



Advocate, and Western Methodist, are their 
periodicals. 

3. Methodist Protestants.— -There are two 
conferences of this denomination in the West, 
— the Pittsburg, and Ohio conferences, and 
their circuits, preaching stations and members 
extend through the States north of the Ohio 
river, with a few stations and churches south. 

Pittsburg Conference has 28 circuits, and 85 
local preachers and licentiates, 25 circuits, 4 
stations, and 2 mission circuits, with 6,902 
members in society. 

Ohio Conference, has 28 circuit, 90 local 
preachers, 22 circuits, 3 stations, 3 missionary 
circuits, and 3667 members. The Methodist 
Correspondent, a neat semi-monthly quarto 
periodical, published at Zanesville, Ohio, is 
devoted to their interests. 

4. Presbyterians. — The following table (with 
the exception of Illinois) is constructed from 
the returns to the General Assembly in 1834, 
— the Minutes of 1835, we understand, have 
not been printed. 



States and parts. 


3 


'c 


11 


1 States. 


J 

3 












o.S? 




J= 




o 2 




5 


S 


O s 




o 

1 


20" 
9 


Oc 


Vl^.P(!nnsylvai)ia ) 
and VV, Va. \ 


212 


13.- 


•22,(387 


Missouri, 
Arkansas, 


J, 543 
390 


Michigan, 


32 


20 


1,397 


Kentucky, 


120 


83 


8,378 


Ohio, 


400 


255 


27,8->l 


Tennessee, 


121 


90 


9,926 


Indiana, 


99 


55 


4,339 


North Alabama, 


15 


12 


70.5 


Illinois, 


71 


50 


2,000 


Mississippi, 


33 


24 


761 



Total 56, Presbyteries, 1,148 churches, 
753 ministers, and 79,973 communicants. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 355 

Periodicals. — The Cincinnati Journal and West" 
cm Liiminanj, published at Cincinnati; — Cliris- 
ficm Herald, at Pittsburg; — Ohio Observer ^ at 
Hudson, Ohio; — Western Presbyterian Herald, 
at Louisville, Ky. ^—JVeiv Orleans Observer, at 
New Orleans; — and St. Louis Observer, at St. 
Louis, Mo., — all weekly; — and the Missionary 
Herald, republished at Cincinnati, monthly. 

5. Cumberland Presbyteriajis. — This sect ori- 
ginated from the Presbyterian church in 1804, 
in Kentucky, but did not increase much till 
1810, or 12. They are spres-d through most 
of the Western States, and have 34 Presbyte- 
ries, 7 vSynods, and one General Assembly. 
The Minutes of their General Assembly, now 
before me, are not sufficiently definite to give 
the number of congregations. The»e probably 
exceed 300. An intelligent member of that 
denomination states the number of ordained 
preachers to be 300, licentiates, 100, candi- 
dates for the ministry, 150, and communicants, 
50,000. 

Periodicals. — The Ciimberl and Presbyterian is 
a weekly paper, published at Nashville, Tenn. 
Another has been recently started at Pitts- 
burg. 

6. Congregalionalists. — In Ohio, especially 
in the northern part, are a number of Congre- 
gational churches and some ministers, as there 
are in Indiana, Michigan, and Illinois. There 
are 2 or 3 ministers, 12 or 15 congregations, 
and about 500 communicants in Illinois, who 
are organized into an association in Illinois, 



S56 peck's guide 

7. Protestant Episcopal Church .—This de- 
nomination has 7 Diocesses in the Western 
or south-western States, exchisive of Western 
Pennsylvania, and Western Virginia, which 
belong to the Diocesses of those States. They 
are, Ohio, — Michigan, — Illinois,-— Kentucky, 
— Tennessee, — Mississippi, and Indiana, and 
Missouri. There are about 75 or 80 ministers, 
and twice as many churches in the West. 
Provision has been made in part, for the en- 
dowment of the theological seminary at Gam- 
bier, O., in England, aud Bishop Mcllvaine 
has obtained about ^1:2,600, to be appropriated 
in the erection of a gothic edifice to be called 
"Bexley Hall." vvith three stories, and ac- 
commodations for fifty students. A weekly 
periodical is issued at the same place to sup- 
port the interests of the denomination. 

8. German Lutherans. — We have no data 
to give the statistics of this denomination. 
There is a Synod in Ohio, another in Western 
Pennsylvania, and perhaps others. There 
are probably 50 or 60 ministers in the West, 
and 150 congregations. 

9. German Reformed Church. — There are 
80 congregations in Ohio, 20 in Indiana, and 
probably 50 others in the West, with 40 or 50 
ministers. 

10. The Tunkers, or Dunkards, have 40 or 
50 churches, and about half as many ministers 
in the W^estern States. 

11. The Shakers have villages in several 
places in Ohio, and Kentucky, but are losing 
ground. 



rOR EMIGRANTS. 357 

]^. The Mormom have a large community 
lat Kirkland, Ohio, where, under the direction 
•irtf their prophet, Joseph Smith, they are buikl- 
«;ng a vast temple. They have probably 200 
preachers, and as many congregations in the 
West, and still make proselytes. 

13. Christian Sect^ or JVeiclights, have be- 
come to a considerable extent amalgamated 
with the " JR^eformers,^^ or " Campbellites.'^ I 
iiave not data on which to construct a tabular 
view of this sect, — but from general informa- 
tion, estimate the number of their "bishops," 
and "proclaimers," at 300, and their commu- 
nicants at 10,000 or 12,000. They have three 
or four monthly periodicals. 

Alexander Campbell, who may be justly 
■considered the leader of this sect, (though 
they disclaim the term sect,) is a learned, 
talented, and voluminous writer. He con- 
\lucts their leading periodical, the Millennial 
Harbino;ei\ 

14. The " United Brethren in Christ, ^^ are a 
pious, moral and exemplary sect, chiefly in 
Ohio, but scattered somewhat in other West- 
•ern States. They are mostly of German 
descent, and in their doctrinal principles and 
■usages, very much i*esemble the Methodists. 
They have about 300 ministers in the West, 
and publish the Religious Telescope, a large 
weekly paper, of evangelical principles, and 
well conducted. It is printed at Circleville, 
Ohio. 

15. Reformed Presbyterians, or Covenanters, 

15* 



358 peck's guide 

have 20 or 30 churches, and as many minis- 
ters, but are much dispersed through the 
Northern Valley. 

16. The Associate Church, or Secedcrs, are 
more numerous than the Covenanters. 

17. The Associate Reformed Church. The 
Western Synod of this body still exists as a 
separate denomination. Their theological 
school, at Pittsburg, has already been noticed. 
I know not their numbers, but suppose they 
exceed considerably the Associate Church. 

18. The Friends or Quakers, have a num- 
ber of societies in Western Pennsylvania, 
Ohio, Indiana, &c. 

19. The Unitarians have societies and minis- 
ters at Pittsburg, Cincinnati, Louisville, St. 
Louis, and probably in other places. 

There are many other sects and fragments 
in the West. The Valley of the Mississippi, 
like all new countries, is a wide and fertile 
field for the propagation of error, as it is for 
the display of truth. 

IX. Roman Catholics. 

The number of Papal Diocesses in the 
Valley, including the one at Mobile, is seven, 
of each of which a very brief sketch will be 
given, commencing with, 

1. Detroit, including Michigan and the 
North-Western Territory, — 1 bishop, with 
sub-officers, 18 priests, and as many chapels. 
At Detroit and vicinity, for 2 or 3 miles, in- 
oluding the French, Irish and Germans, 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 369 

Roman Catholic families make up one third of 
the population; probably 3,.y)0, of all ages. 
At Ann Arbor, and in the towns of Webster, 
Scio, Northfield, Lima and Dexter are many. 
At and near Bertrand on the St. Joseph's 
river, adjoining Indiana, they have a school 
established and an Indian mission. Including 
the fur traders, and Indians, they may be es- 
timated at 10,000 in this Diocess.* 

2. Cincimudi. — A large cathedral has been 
built in this place, and 15 or !20 chapels in the 
Diocess, Ten years ago, the late bishop 
Fenwick could not count up 500. The emigra- 
tion of foreigners, and the laborers on the Ohio 
canals, and not a little success in proselyting, 
account for the increase. There are 25 con- 
gregations, and 18 priests. A literary institu- 
tion, called the JlthencBum, is established at 
Cincinnati, where the students are required 
to attend the forms of worship, and the 
Superior inspects all their letters. St. Peter's 
Orphan Asylum is under charge of 4 " Sisters 
of Charity." The number of Catholics in 
Cincinnati is variously estimated, the medium 
of which is 6000, and as many more dispersed 
through the State. 

3. Bctrdstown. — This includes the State of 
Kentucky, and has a bishop, with the usual 
subordinates, 27 congregations, and 33 priests, 

* The reader will note that our estimates of Roman 
Catholics include the whole family of every ai^e. Where- 
as, our statistics of Protestant denominations included only 
«ommunicunts. 



360 peck's guide 

11 of whom reside at Bardstown. A convent 
of 6 Jesuit priests at Lebanon; another of 5 
Dominicans, called St. Rose, in Washington 
county; the college at Bardstown, already 
noticed, and StMary's Seminary in Wash- 
ington county, for the education of priests. 
Of female institutions, there are the Female 
.Academy of JYazareih at Bardstown, conducted 
by the " Sisters of Charity," and superintend- 
ed by the bishop and professors of St. Joseph's 
college, — 150 pupils; the female academy of 
Loretto, Washington county, with accomoda- 
tion for 100 boarders, and directed by the 
' ' Sisters of Marij at the foot of the cross.'' This 
order have six other places for country schools, 
and are said to be 135 in number. The 
Convent of Holij Mary, and the Monastery of 
St. Magdalene, at St. Rose, Washington 
county, by Dominican nuns, 15 in number, 
and in 1831,30 pupils. The Catholics have 
a female academy at Lexington \Yith lOO 
pupils. 

I have no data to show the Roman Catholic 
population of this State, but it is by no means 
proportionate to the formidable machinery 
here exhibited. All this array of colleges, 
seminaries, monasteries, convents and nun- 
neries is for the work of proselyting, and if 
they are not successful, it only shows that the 
current of popular sentin^cnt sets strongly in 
another direction. 

4. Vincennes. — This is a new Diocess, re- 
centlv carved out of Indiana and Illinois bv 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 361 

the authority of an old gentleman, who lives 
in the city of Rome! It includes a dozen 
chapels, 4 or 5 priests, the St. Claire convent 
at Vincennes, with several other appendages. 
The Roman Catholic population of this State 
is not numerous, probably not exceeding 
3000. Illinois has about 5000, a part of which 
is under the jurisdiction of St. Louis Diocess. 
In Illinois there are 10 churches, and 6 
priests, a part of which are included in the 
Diocess of Indiana, A convent of nuns of 
the "Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary,'' at 
Kaskaskia, who conduct a female school, with 
a few boarders and about 30 or 40 day 
scholars. 

5. »S7. Louis. — This Diocess includes 18 
congregations and 19 priests, with the follow- 
ing appendages: 

1. St. Louis University, already noticed, 
with 6 priests for instructers, and 150 students, 
of which, about 80 are boarders. The rules 
require their attendance on morning and 
evening prayers, the catechism, and divine 
service on Sundays and holidays. 2. St. 
Mary's College, also noticed in our description 
of colleges. 3. Noviciate for Jesuits under 
St. Stanislaus, in St. Louis county. Of fe- 
male institutions there are, — 1. Convent of the 
"Ladies of the Sacred Heart,'' at St. Louis; 2. 
another of the same description, and their 
noviciate, at Florrissant; — 3. another of the 
same order at St. Charles; — 4. a female 
academy at Carondalet, six miles below St. 



362 peck's guide 

Louis, by the '^Sisters of Charity ;^^ — 5. a 
convent and academy of the "Sisters of 
Loretto,^^ at New Madrid; — 6. a convent and 
female academy at Frederickstown, under 
supervision of a priest; — 7, a convent and 
female academy of the " Sisters of Loretto,'^ in 
Perry county. The Roman Catholic popula- 
tion in Missouri does not exceed 15,000. 
Their pupils, of both sexes, may be estimated 
at 700. To the above may be added the 
hospital, and the asylum for boys, in St. 
Louis, under the management of the Sisters 
of Charity. 

Roman Catholic teachers, usually foreign- 
ers, disperse themselves through the country, 
and engage in teaching primary schools; 
availing themselves of intercourse with the 
families of their employers to instruct them in 
the dogmas of their religion. The greatest 
success that has attended the efforts of the 
priests in converting others, has been during 
the prevalence of the cholera, and especially 
after collapse and insensibility had seized the 
person! We know of more than 60 Roman 
Catholics who have been converted to the 
faith of Christ and joined Christian churches 
within 3 or 4 years past, in this State. 

6. JVew Orleans. — The Roman Catholics in 
Louisiana are numerous, probably including 
one third of the population. Relatively, 
Protestants are increasing, as a large propor- 
tion of the emigration from the other States, 
who care any thing about religion, are Pro- 



roil EMIGRANTS. 563 

testants. There are 26 congregations, and 
27 priests with several convents, female semi- 
naries, asylums, &c. 

7. Mobile. — A splendid cathedral has been 
commenced here. This Diocess extends into 
Florida. 



384 



PECK S GUIDE 



CHAPTER XV. 



Suggestions to Emigrants — Canal, Steamboat and Stage 
Routes — Other Modes of Travel— Expenses — Koads, 
Distances, &c. &c. 

In the concluding chapter to this Gvi'db, it 
is proposed to give such inibrmation as is 
always desirable to emigrants upon removing, 
or travelling for any purpose, to the West. 

1. Persons in moderate circumstances, or 
who would save time and expense, need not 
make a visit to the West, to ascertain partic- 
ulars previous to removal. A few general 
facts, easily collected from a hundred sources, 
will enable persons to decide the great ques- 
tion whether they will emigrate to the Valley. 
By the same means, emigrants may determine 
to what State, and to what part of that State, 
their course shall be directed. There are 
many things that a person of plain, common 
sense will take for granted without inquiry,— 
such as facilities for obtaining all the necessa- 
ries of life ; the readiness with which property of 
any description may be obtained for a fair val- 
ue, and especially farms and wild land; that 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 365 

they can live where hundreds of thousands of 
others of simihir habits and feelings live; and 
above all, they should take it for granted, that 
there are dilficulties to be encountered in 
every country, and in all business, — that 
these difficulties can be surmounted with rea- 
sonable effort, patience and perseverance, and 
that in every country, people sicken and die. 

2. Having decided to wliat State and part 
of the State an emigrant will remove, let him 
then conclude to take as little furniture and 
other luggage as he can do v/ith, especially 
if he comes by public conveyances. Those 
v/ho reside within convenient distance of a 
sea port, would find it both safe and economi- 
cal to ship by New Orleans, in boxes, such 
articles as are not v/anted on the road, espe- 
cially if they steer for the navigable waters of 
the Mississippi. Bed and other clothing, 
books, '6lc., packed in boxes, like merchants' 
goods, will go much safer and cheaper by 
New Orleans, than by any of the inland 
routes. I have received more than one hun- 
dred packages and boxes, from eastern ports, 
by that route, within 20 years, and never lost 
one. Boxes should be marked to the owner 
or his agent at the river port where destined, 
and to the charge of some forwarding house 
in New Orleans. The freight and charges 
may be paid when the boxes are received. 

3. If a person designs to remove to the 
north part of Ohio, and Indiana, to Chicago 
and vicinity, or to Michigan, or Greenbay 

16 



366 



PECK S GUIDE 



his course would be by the New York canai, 
and the lakes. The following table, showing 
the time of the opening of the canal at Albany 
and Buffalo, and the opening of the lake, 
from 1827 to 1335, is from a report of a com- 
mittee at Buffalo to the common council of 
that city. It will be of use to those who wish 
to take the northern route in the spring. 



Year. 


Canal opened at 


Canal opened a' 


Lake Erio open- 


Buftitlo. 


Alliany. 


ed Ht Buffalo. 


1827 


April 21 


April 21 


April 21 


1828 


1 


" 1 


" 1 


1829 


" 25 


" 29 


May 10 


1830 


" 15 


" 20 


April 6 


1831 


" 16 


" 16 


ftlay 8 


1832 


" 18 


" 25 


April 27 


1833 


" 22 


" 22 


" 23 


1834 


" 16 


" 17 


6 


1835 


" 15 


" 15 


May 8 



The same route will carry emigrants to 
Cleveland and by the Ohio canal to Columbus, 
or to the Ohio river at Portsmouth, from 
whence by steamboat, direct communications 
will offer to any river port in the Western 
States. From Buffalo, steamboats run con- 
stantly, (when the lake is open,) to Detroit, 
stopping at Erie, Ashtabula, Cleveland, San- 
dusky and many other ports from whence 
stages run to every prominent town. Trans- 
portation wagons are employed in forwarding 
goods. 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 



367 



Schedule from Buffalo to Detroit by water. 



Dunkirk, N. Y 


39 


Cleveland, Ohio, 


30—193 


Portland, " 


18—57 


Sandusky, " 


54—247 


Erie, Pa., 


35—92 


Amherslburg,N. C. 


52—299 


Ashtabula, Ohio, 


39—131 


Detroit, Mich,, 


18—317 


Fairport, " 


32—163 






From thence to Chicago^ Illinois 






xMilrs. 




Miles. 


St. Clair River, 




Presquelsle, 


65—271 


fllichigan. 


40 


xMackinaw, 


58—329 


Palmer, 


17—57 


Isle Brule, 


75—404 


Fort Gratiot, 


14—71 


Fort Howard, W. 




White Rock, 


40—111 


Territory, 


100—504 


Thunder Island, 


70—181 


Milwaukee, W. T. 


310—814 


Middle Island, 


25—206 


Chicago, 111., 


90—904 


From Cleveland to Portsmoulh, via. Ohio canal. 




Miles. 


Miles. 


Cuyahoga Aqueduc 


t, 22 Irville, 


26—158 


Old Portage, 


12— 34 Newark, 


13—171 


Akron, 


4—38 Hebron, 


10—181 


New Portage, 


5 — 43 Licking Summit, 


5—186 


Clinton, 


11 — 54 Lancaster Canaan, 


11—197 


Masillon, 


1 1 — 65 Columbus, side cut 


, 18—215 


Bethlehem, 


6—71 Bloomfield, 


8—223 


Bolivar, 


8—79 Circleville, 


9—232 


Zoar, 


3_82 Cbillicothe, 


23—255 


Dover, 


7—89 Piketon, 


25—280 


New Philadelphia, 


4 — 93,Lucasville, 


14 294 


New-Comers' 




Portsmouth, (Ohio 




Town, 


22—115 


river,) 


13—307 


Coshocton, 


17—132 







The most expeditious, pleasant and direct 
route for travellers to the southern parts of 
Ohio and Indiana; to the Illinois river, as far 



368 



PECK S GUIDE 



north as Peoria; to the Upper Mississippi, as 
Quincy, Rock Island, Galena and Prairie du 
Chien; to Missouri; and to Kentucky, Ten- 
nessee, Arkansas, Natches and New Orleans 
is one of the southern routes. There are, 
1st, from Philadelphiato Pittsburg by rail-roads 
and the Pennsylvania canal ; 2nd, by Baltimore, 
— the Baltimore and Ohio rail-road, — and 
stages to Wheeling; or, 3dly, for people 
living to the south of Washington, by stage, 
via Charlottsville, Va., Staunton, the hot, 
warm, and white sulphur springs, Lewisburg, 
Charlestown, to Guiandotte, from whence a 
regular line of steamboats run 3 times a week 
to Cincinnati. Intermediate routes from 
Washington city to Wheeling; or to Harper's 
ferry, to Fredericksburg, and intersect the 
route through Virginia at Charlottsville. 

From Philadelphia to Pittsburg, via rail-road 
and canal. 





Miles. 




INliles. 


Columbia on the Sus- 


Petersburg, 


8—221 


quehanna river 


by 


Alexandria, 


23—244 


rail-road, daily 


81 


Frankstown and 




By canal packets 


to 


Holladaysburgh, 


3—247 


Bainbridge, 


11— 92 


From thence by 




Middletown, 


17—109 


rail-road across 




Ilarrisburg, 


10—119 


the mountain to 




Juniatta river, 


15—134 


Johnstown is 


38—285 


Millerstown, 


17—151 


By canal to Blairs- 




Mifflin, 


17— U)8 


ville, 


35—320 


Lewistown, 


13—171 Saltzburg, 


18—338 


Waynesburg, 


14—195 Warren, 


12—350 


Hamiltonville, 


11—206 Alleghany river, 


16—366 


Huntingdon, 


7—213 


Pittsburg, 


28—394 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 369 

The Pioneer line on this route is exclusively 
for passengers, and professes to reach Pitts- 
burg in four days — but is sometimes behind 
several hours. Fare through, $10. Passen- 
gers pay for meals. 

Leech's line, called "the Western Transpor- 
tation line,'' takes both freight and passengers. 
The packet boats advertise to go through to 
Pittsburg in jive days for $7. 

Midship and steerage passengers in the 
transportation line in six and a half days; mer- 
chandize delivered in 8 days. Generally, 
however, there is some delay. Emigrants 
must not expect to carry more than a small 
trunk or two on the packet lines. Tiiose 
who take goods or furniture, and expect to 
keep with it, had better take the transporta- 
tion lines with more delay. The price of 
meals on the boats is about 37^ cents. 

On all the steamboats on the Western waters, 
no additional charge is made to cabin passen- 
gers for meals, — and the tables are usually 
profusely supplied. Strict order is observed, 
and the waiters and officers are attentive. 

Steamboat route from Pittsburg to the mouth 
of Ohio. 



Miles- 
Middletown, Pa. 11 

Economy, " 8—19 

Beaver, " 10—29 



Miles. 
Warren, Ohio, 6— 82 
Wheelimr, Va., 10— 92 
Elizabothtovvn, " 11 — 103 



Georgetown, " 13 — 42 Sistersville, " 34 — 137 

Steubenville, Ohio, 27— 69|Newport, Ohio, 27— 1C4 
Wellsburgh, Va., 1—1^\ Marietta, " 14—178 



370 



PECK S GUIDE 



Miles. 

Parkersburgh,Va., 11—189 
Belpre,and Blenner- 

hassett'slsl'd,0., 4—193 

Troy, Ohio, 10—203 

Belleville, Va., 7—210 

Letart's Rapids, " 37 — 247 

Point Pleasant, " 27—274 

Gallipolis, Ohio, 4—278 

Gvyandot, Va., 27—305 

Burlington, Ohio, 10 — 315 

Greensburg, Ky., 19—334 

Concord, Ohio, 12—346 
Portsmouth,{Ohio, 

canal,) 7 

Vancebiirg, Ky., 20 

Manchester, Ohio, 16 



Ky, 



Ohio, 
Ky., 

Ohio, 



Mcnjsville, 

Charleston, 

Ripley, 

Augusta, 

Neville, 

Moscow, 

Pohit Pleasant, 

New Richmond 

Columbia, 

Fulton, 

Cincinnati, 

North Bend, 

Lawrenceburgh , la. , 
and mouth of the 
ftliami, 

Aurora, 

Petersburg, 

Bellevue, 

Rising Sun, 

Fredericks- 
burgh, 

Vevay, la., 
Ghent, 



Port William, Ky., 8- 
Madison, In., 15- 

New London, " 12- 
Bethlehem, " 8 

Westport, Ky., 7- 
Transylvania, " 15 
Louisville, Ky., 12 
Shippingsport thro' 



353 
373 
389 
400 
404 
410 
418 
425 
432 
436 
443 
■458 
464 
—466 
—431 



Ky. 

la. 



In. 



la., 
Ky.. 

la. 



18- 



Ky., 
and 
Ky., 11 



the canal, 2^- 

New Albany, In., 1.^ 
Salt River, 
Northampton 
Leavenworth 
Fredonia, 
Rome, 
Troy, 
Rockport, 
Owen burgh, 
EvansvilU, 
Henderson, Ky, 
Mount Vernon, la., 
Carthage, Ky., 
Wabash River, " 
Shawnedoion, 111., 
Mouth of Saline, " 
Cave in Rock, " 
Golconda, " 

Smithland, mouth 

of the Cumber- 
land River, Ky., 10—915 
Paducah, mouth 

of the Tennessee 

River, Ky., 13—928 

Caledonia, 111., 31—959 
503.Trinity, mouth of 

Cash River, III., 10—969 
521 Mouth of the 

Ohio River, 6—975 
5321 



—489 
—491 
—493 
—501 



23 

18- 

17 

2 

32 

" 25 

" 16 

Ky., 12 

la., 36- 

12 

28- 

12 

7- 

11 

12 

10 

19 



Miles. 
-540 
-555 
-567 
—575 
-582 
-597 
-609 

-611i 

—613 

—636 

—654 

671 

673 

705 

730 

746 

758 

794 

—806 

834 

846 

853 

864 

—876 

886 

—905 



FOR EMIGRANTS. 371 

Persons who wish to visit Indianopolis will 
stop at Madison, la., and take the stage con- 
veyance. From Louisville, via Vincennes, 
to St. Louis by stage, every alternate day, 
273 miles, through in three days and half. 
Fare §17. Stages run from Vincennes to 
Terre Haute and other towns up the Wabash 
river. At Evansville, la., stage lines are 
connected with Vincennes and Terre Haute; 
and at Shawneeiowu twice a week to Carlyle, 
111., where it intersects the line from Louis- 
ville to St. Louis. From Louisville to Nash- 
ville by steamboats, passengers land at Smith- 
land at the mouth of Cumberland river, unless 
they embark direct for Nasiiville. 

In the 'w in! er both stage and steamboat lines 
are uncertain and irregular. Ice in the nvers 
frequently obstructs navigation, and high 
waters and bad roads sometimes prevent 
stages from running regularly. 

Farmers who remove to the West from the 
Northern and Middle States, will lind it ad- 
vantageous in many instances to remove with 
their own teams and wagons. These they 
will need on their arrival. Autumn, or from 
September till November, is the favorable 
season for this mode of emigration. The 
roads are then in good order, the weather 
usually favorable, and feed plenty. I^eople of 
all classes from the States south oi' the Ohio y^ 
river, remove with largo wagons, carry and 
cook their own provisions, purchase their 



372 peck's guide 

feed by the bushel, and invariably encamp cut 
at ni^'hl. 

Individuals who wisli to travel through the 
interior of Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Mis- 
souri, &c., will find that the most convenient, 
sure, economical and independent mode is en 
horseback. Their expenses will be (rorn 7.5 
cents to ^l 50 per day, and they can always 
consult their own convenience and pleasure 
as to time and place. 

Stage Tare is usually 6 cents per mile in tlic 
West. Meals at stage houses, 3'i-> cents. 

Ste amboa / fare , inc hiding raca Is . 

From Pittsburg to Cincinnati, . . . . . . ^-UO 

" Cincinnati to Ijouisville, 4 

" Louisville to St. Louis, 12 

And frequently the same from Cincinnati to 

St. Louis; — varying a little, however. 

A deck passage, ay it is called, may be rated 

as folio v.s: 

From Pittsbuig to Cincinnati, ^y^S 

" Cincinnati to Louisville, 1 

" Louisville to St. Louis, 4 

The deck for such passengers is usually in 
the midship, forward the engine, and is pi-o- 
tected from the weather. Passengers furnish 
their own provisions and bedding. They often 
take their menls at the cabin table, with the 
boat hands, and pay 9Sj cents a meal. Thou- 
sands pass up and down the rivers as deck 



FOR EMIGRA.NTS. 373 

passengers, esp\ccially emigrating families, 
who have their bedding, provisions, and cook- 
ing utensils en board. 

The whole expense of a single person from 
New York to St. Louis, via. Philadelphia and 
Pittsburg, with cabin passage on the river, 
will range between ^^40 and §45. Time from 
12 to 15 days. 

Taking the transportation lines on the Penn- 
sylvania canal, and a deck passage on the 
steamboat, and the expenses will range be- 
tween 20 and $25, supposing the person buys 
liis meals at 25 cents, and eats twice a day. 
Li' he carry his own provisions, the passage, 
&c., will be from 15 to $18. 

The following is from an advertisement of the 

Western Transporlalion , or Leech's Line, from 
Philadelphia : 

Miles. Days. 

Fare to Pittsburg, 400 Qh $6 00 
" " Cincinnati, 900 8i 8 50 

" "Louisville, 1050 9i 9 00 

" " Nashville, 1650 13i 13 00 
" " St. Louis, 1750 14 13 00 

The above docs not include meals. 

Packet Boats for Cabin Passengers, same line. 

Wiles. Days. 

Fare to Pittsburg, 400 5 p 

" " Cincinnati, 900 8 17 

" "Louisville, 1050 9 19 

" " Nashville, 1650 13 27 

" " St. Louis, 1750 13 27 



/ 



374 peck's guide. 

Emigrants and travellers will find it to their 
interest always to be a little sceptical relative 
to the statements of stage, steam and canal 
boat agents, to make some allowance in their 
own calculations for delays, difficulties and ex- 
penses, and above all, to fed perfectly patient 
and in good humor with themselves, the 
officers, company, and the world, even if they 
do not move quite as rapid, and fare quite as 
well as they desire. 



ERRATA. 



Page 40, 8th line from the bottom, for Tau-mar-ivtns, 
read Tau-mar-waus. 

41. For Mihvankce, read Mihvaukee. 
" For Fonti, read Toati. 



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The rapid sale of the large edition of this work first 
published, — the increasing demand for it, — and the evident 
good which its circulation has accomplished, have induced 
the publishers to bestow much expense and labor upon it, 
in order to present the present edition in as complete and 
attractive a form as possible, with a viewtogivnig it a still 
wider and more rapid circulation. 

A valuable Essay of thiriy-five pages, written at the 
request of the publishers has been added; and in addi- 
tion to its having been handsomely stereotyped, a correct 
likeness of Mr. Roardman, taken on steel, from a painting 
in possession of the faniijly, and a beautiful vignette repre- 
senting the baptismal scene just before his death, have also 
been added. 



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